Headlights Adjuster

  • The stock headlight adjusters are designed to be adjustable with a regular blade screwdriver from the top of the headlight assembly with the cover removed. The up/down adjuster is on top while the left/right is underneath and is accesible through the assembly via a small hole on the bottom of the housing between the lights.


    1.
    Open hood (Sure helps!).


    2.
    Remove the headlight covers by removing the single phillips head screw at the back. Slide the cover forward to disengage the clips.


    3.
    The top (up/down) adjuster is accessable from the top of the open bucket.
    Look for a groove ending in a small hole toward the lights.
    The original adjuster is an aluminum piece that looks like a beveled gear and is pressed onto a splined shaft.
    If you can see the gear "teeth" in the small hole then your original is still in place.
    If the original is still on it can be left in place (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) or replaced.
    If you decide to replace it, use a small flat blade screwdriver (in the hole) to push it off the splined shaft.


    4.
    The left/right adjuster is basically the same and located underneath the headlight assembly.
    If this needs to be replaced:
    -> Manually raise the headlights by spinning the knurled knob in front of the headlight clockwise
    -> Remove the two rear pivot nuts and bolts * (See note below)
    -> Flip the headlight assembly forward to access the underneath spline


    5.
    The new adjusters have two set-screws at the front end, for attaching to the splined shaft, and a screwdriver slot on the back end to adjust the lights.


    6.
    Slip the new adjuster onto the splined shaft (set screw end first)


    7.
    Important! Push on the headlight assembly with one hand to remove all the play.
    Make sure that the splined shaft has been pushed all the way inward.
    (there is a large round boss which will seat where the shaft comes through the housing)
    If the missing or both adjusters have been installed and the assembly is still loose, the new adjuster was not seated all the way.


    8.
    With the other hand, push the new adjuster on tight, and then tighten the set-screws.
    What worked for me for the underneath adjusters: I used a drill and just moved the bit sideways to notch the plastic ridge opposite of the adjuster hole (around where the adjuster seats) to gain access to both set screws.
    I slid the adjuster on so that one set screw was accesible through the adjuster hole and the other was accesible through the notch.
    The reason I did this is that when I tightened the first set screw through the adjuster hole and then rotated the adjuster to tighten the second set screw, it slipped and I ended up with some play that meant I had to repeat the process.


    9.
    When you re-install the rear pivot bolts, make sure the small locking tab near the head of the bolt seats in the slot.


    10.
    The lights can now be adjusted by using a long handled screwdriver from the back.


    *Advice on removing the rear pivot bolts: loosen the nut enough so that it is most of the way off the threads and then tap on the nut to loosen and partially drive out the pivot bolts; this will avoid damaging the threads if you tap on them and makes removal of the bolts easier.
    There are little metal bushing sleeves that slip into the plastic headlight assembly; make sure they don't fall out.
    I also cleaned and lightly oiled the pivot bolts before I put them back in. It isn't bad at all to get to the lower adjusters.
    Three hands helps though in keeping the pressure on the light assembly, holding the new adjuster in place, and tightening the set screw.


    Another word of advice, keep the nuts, bolts, adjusters, and sockets off the front of the car.
    I've discovered that the front end of the 8 is a black hole for swallowing little bits.
    Thankfully I had my magnetic retriever!


    David C

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