Beiträge von shogun

  • electr. rear sunblind drive toothed wheel, made of steel

    Special production to replace the weak original 'plastic' wheel which usually loses the teeth over the years and then the rear sunblind starts to rattle and is often inoperatable. That is the large one of the 2 inside the gear.
    Used in all E32, E34, E31 and even E38 till 1996 for sure, even some till 1998, also some Mercedes Benz and Audi 5000 models of same build years.
    Note: I can only deliver the toothed wheel in version with HEX bolt, not the torx version, which was introduced from 1996 on in E38 and others, see here the 2 different versions
    http://i53.tinypic.com/1jrztz.jpg

    Also available as optional extra an enforcement bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part in addition to the large toothed wheel in steel version. Here some pics of the set from various angles, both parts are special made
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.p…uoh4l5k2TGxc#.VE3R7WccSUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.p…1Ih4l5k2TGxc#.VE3SBGccSUk


    Toothed wheel shipped by SAL US$65.00/piece (usually takes about 2-3 weeks for example to the U.S., non-trackable, no insurance). Alternatively shipped by registered air parcel, faster delivery, incl. insurance, plus $10.00
    Optional enforcement bush $ 8/piece.


    More details, installation instructions here http://www.bimmerforums.com/fo…othed-wheel-made-of-steel


    Please contact me via the email address shown on my website with detailed shipping address, and order details http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

  • Steering Gearbox Teflon seals

    My German BMW dealer has asked BMW HQ parts division:
    Ursache
    Wir finden keine Dichtungen für die Lenkung.
    Maßnahme
    Die Abdichtung durch Reparatur ist nicht vorgesehen, da hierdurch, Aufgrund der Passgenauigkeit nur kurzfristig ein Erfolg erzielt werden kann.
    --------------------
    brief translation:
    cause
    We find no seals for the steering.
    measure
    Sealing by repair is not provided as this, due to the fit only a short-term success can be achieved
    ---------------------------------------
    But as I already told you before, there is no need to replace these, we have meanwhile repaired several steering gears and never had to replace these. In worst case we would have taken these out of another use steering gear.
    I suggest you use some liquid seal in the area of the housing where the long bolts go thru.

  • Unable to get info from SRS module

    Hi dudu, I just read that you are still working on this problem and that even my SIR3 did not solve the problem so far. I am not sure if that helps, but read here post # 8
    info on SRS fault codes system 3, explanation >troubleshooting
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum…light-reset-tool-new.html
    also post #9:
    about SRS light stays on 2-5 minutes:


    If you look at service bulletin 720496 you'll see it. It's caused by a broken or damaged circuit board in either the drivers side seat belt latch or the passengers side. If you have code 24 its the drivers side if you have fault code 25 its the passenger side, either way it goes into the default mode which is to trigger both bags in the event of an accident.
    IF the system is functioning normally then the seat belt sensors detect if you have a passenger in the car and will turn that bag on or off which would save some money if nobodies on that side then you don't need to trigger the passenger bag.


    It affects all models with the ZAE airbag system, E34, E36, E38, E31 as of production date 3/94
    ---------------------
    SIR3 error messages


    1. Red LED flashes before any buttons are pressed: >>there is a fault in either the SIR3 or the vehicle's wiring.


    2. Red LED flashes after an attempted resetting procedure:>>there is a communication problem with the system

  • electr. rear sunblind drive toothed wheel, made of steel

    special produced to replace the weak original plastic wheel which usually loses the teeth over the years and then the rear sunblind starts to rattle and is often inoperatable. That is the large one of the 2 inside the gear. Used in all E32, E34, E31 and even E38 till 1996 for sure, even some till 1998, also some Mercedes Benz and Audi 5000 models of similar production years.


    Pics and DIY instructions http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/619738
    here in German language with pics: Einbauanleitung für Zahnrad- el. Heckrollo, BMW E34 E32 E31- Mercedes W202
    http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bm…nleitung_fuer_zahnrad.pdf


    Shipped by SAL US$65.00 (usually takes about 2-3 weeks for example to the U.S., non-trackable, non-insured).
    Alternatively shipped by registred air parcel, faster delivery, incl. insurance, plus $10.00.


    Seller is not responsible for any import duties, taxes or whatever in the country of destination.


    In case of registered shipment I need besides the complete shipping address also the phone number to fill out the shipping documents. In case of SAL (Sea Air Land) I only need the complete shipping address.


    Paypal o.k.
    Please contact me by PM or send email to evtyo ( at) hotmail (dot) com.


    These drive gears were installed in following models
    E31, E34, E32 DRIVE 51461388215, Part 51461388215 (DRIVE) was found on the following vehicles:
    E31 840Ci, 840i, 850Ci, 850CSi, 840Ci
    E32 730/735/740/750iL
    E34 and E34 M5, excluding Touring


    Audi: This toothed wheel made of solid steel also fits for Audi gear p/n (4A0959733) to replace the weak original totthed wheel:Audi 100/S4 (4A, C4) (1991 bis/till 1994),Audi A6/S6/S6plus (4A, C4) (1994 bis/till 1997),Audi V8 (4C, D11) (1989 bis/till 1994),Audi A8/S8 (4D, D2) (1994 bis/till 1999)


    additional upgrade possible:


    upon request of E34, E32 and E31 drivers I also can offer as optional extra the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part in addition to the large toothed wheel in steel version. Here some pics of the set from various angles, both parts are special made
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.p…VXBFwv4uq%2FVuoh4l5k2TGxc
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.p…wTVVnat0r888V1Ih4l5k2TGxc
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.p…wTVUakZ7ZDrLyDIh4l5k2TGxc
    Reason:


    Another problem for damages of the gear is the bush for the guide pin for the smaller gear part, when that bush get's damaged, the gear parts (small and large)touch each other too much. Since more than 1 year this bush was tested with good success together with the steel gear from me.
    the sunshade compl.
    http://i54.tinypic.com/1jx0u1.jpg
    damaged gear
    http://i55.tinypic.com/349c2oi.jpg
    caused by this damaged bush
    http://i56.tinypic.com/10xadd1.jpg
    http://i52.tinypic.com/qq629w.jpg
    repair, drill a larger hole into the housing with a 7.8 mm drill and them smoothen the hole with a 8H7 reamer
    http://i54.tinypic.com/f0z1uu.jpg
    production of the brass bush to replace the old one
    http://i54.tinypic.com/20a6wxk.jpg
    http://i53.tinypic.com/8zqhwm.jpg
    bush pressed in
    http://i56.tinypic.com/ogf780.jpg
    insert the old guide pin into the bush
    http://i55.tinypic.com/15ip02.jpg
    http://i53.tinypic.com/2mcssjl.jpg
    greased http://i53.tinypic.com/nd2bkl.jpg
    closed housing http://i54.tinypic.com/2e5ve47.jpg


    Repair work is of course at your own risk and ability, if the hole is not drilled very accurate, your repair attempt might not work


    Price for the bush $8.00 if shipped with the toothed wheel.


    Note: In Europe this drive was also used till around 08/1996 in 7 series E38, but even found sometimes in 1998 model years. Apparently the stocked items were plenty. Later the part number was changed to another design.I can only supply the toothed wheel with hex nut, NOT the one with torx, here the difference
    http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/1839/20110403135131.jpg
    http://i53.tinypic.com/1jrztz.jpg


    Thanks for reading

  • common power steering malfunctions

    As a general information on frequent questions to power steering problems.
    Because of exposure to underhood heat, high fluid temperatures, ozone, flexing, abrasion, grease, oil and road salt, power steering hoses should be replaced at least every 5 years.
    When checking power steering hoses, watch for symptoms indicating the hose has deteriorated and should be replaced:
    -hose is brittle or hard
    With age the hose loses its ability to expand and contract properly, and cracks appear. Exposure to excess heat (which "overcures" the rubber compounds) can cause this.
    -hose is soft and spongy
    A good sign that the hose has started to deteriorate inside. Oil and grease-soaked hoses are soft when squeezed, and should be replaced.
    -exterior is worn
    Caused by abrasion and contact with metal parts, this can eventually wear a hole in the hose, causing it to burst under pressure.
    Remember that not all power steering hose failures can be spotted by exterior signs. Hoses can deteriorate from inside, causing small particles of the tube to flake off and be carried away in the fluid. These small particles can cause expensive damage to the pump, pump cylinder and other units.
    Composite deteriorations are shown in the link on page 14.
    Troubleshooting Guide:


    Heavy Steering Effort
    1. low on power steering fluid
    2. loose rack piston
    3. restricted fluid passages in gear assembly
    4. bent or damaged rack assembly
    5. internal fluid leakage in valve assy
    6. external fluid leakge at pump
    7. incorrect drive belt tension
    8. external fluid leakage at hoses
    9. incorrect engine idle speed
    10. weak pump flow pressure


    Hissing noise when parking
    1, internal leakage in steering gear
    2. steering wheel at end of travel (normal)
    3. when turning steering wheel at standstill (normal)


    Growl in steering pump
    1. excessive pressure in hoses
    2. worn cam ring in pump
    3. scored thrust plates or rotor in pump
    4. scored pressure plates


    Swish noise in pump
    -defective flow control valve


    Whine in pump
    1. air in power steering fluid
    2. low power steering fluid level
    3. pressure hose or line contacting other parts
    4. mis-aligned hose and line brackets
    5. missing or damaged pump cover O-ring


    Rattle in steering
    1. pressure hose contacting another part
    2. loose pitman shaft
    3. lost pitman arm
    4. loose tie rod ends
    5. loose rack and pinion mounts
    6. loose steering gear housing bolts
    7. loose steering gear adjustments
    Car wanders to one side
    1. incorrect front wheel allignment
    2. unbalanced steering gear valve
    3. loose tie rod ends


    Steering wheel surges or jerks
    1. low power steering fluid level
    2. loose pump drive belt
    3. weak pump pressure
    4. sticking flow control valve


    Excessive play in steering wheel
    1. air in hydraulic system
    2. incorrect steering gear adjustment
    3. loose steering gear coupling
    4. loose steering shaft universal joint
    5. faulty rotary valve


    Increased steering effort
    1. slipping pump drive belt
    2. internal pump leakage
    3. low power steering fluid level
    4. too low engine idle speed
    5. air in hydraulic system
    6. weak pump output
    7. malfunctioning steering gear


    Poor return of steering wheel
    1. mal-adjusted steering wheel
    2. dry ball joints or linkage joints
    3. binding ball joints or linkage joints
    4. incorrect front wheel alignment
    5. mal-adjusted wheel bearings
    6. kinked return hoses
    7. internal pump leakage
    8. contaminated power steering fluid
    9. mis-aligned steering gear to steering column
    10. tight steering shaft bearings or bushings
    11. bent or damaged rack
    12. sticking or plugged spool valve


    This of course does not all refer for our BMW systems, but most of it. 31 pages of education from
    http://www.gates.com/ Gates Auto Education
    http://www.gates.com/common/do…utoEducation/428-7172.pdf

  • Any english speaking E31 owners in japan

    I am also from Tokyo and we are a group of DIYers from Tokyo, Yokohama and Ofuna area.
    See also my website
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

    Here some pics what we do.

    some pics
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/460002/
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/309930/
    Guide for Replacing Alternator Output Cable M70 engine E32 and E31
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/560991/
    parts 750 disassembling
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/270025/
    we also have some members with E31 850 here