Beiträge von Stuart8er

    Hi 8Tech,
    I'm very interested in this one too, I've been backwards and forwards through the spec' on this engine and while a lot of the original design features were probably considered pretty clever at the time it doesn't take long to realise they've also covered all bases and left no scope for conventional tuning.
    And just as a note for the benefit of the not too technicaly minded reading this thread, if you want to keep this engine atmo' (non forced induction) and don't have a huge amount of money to spend (and I mean completely out of proportion in regard to what gains you'll get for said money) or a spare Maclaren F1 engine laying around, your buggered.
    So, as the owner of an early `low comp` 850i you've got my full attention.


    Is this project still going to keep the OEM engine management and is there any sort of budget in mind?


    Stuart.

    Hi Martin,
    I recon' 8Tech's right on the money, it's most probably your friction plates way of saying bye bye.
    If you're looking for a quality uprated clutch talk to Terry at Helix Autosport, top guy that knows his stuff, quality product without any of the bull***t and silly prices you'll find elsewhere.
    The reason light flywheels had a rep' for lumpy running was because the lighter the flywheel the less the damping effect it has in regard to the engine pulses you'll feel and the majority "back in the day" were fitted onto `tuned` 4 pot engines (4 pot with big lift cam+light flywheel=lumpy motor).
    You've a nice smooth V12 so it's never really going to feel lumpy, I'd be very supprised if you felt that much difference through the car, at the end of the day it's releasing free power so why not go for it while the 'box is out, you can always swap back if you don't like it?
    Stuart.

    My excuses range from:
    A/ Building my GT40 replica is taking too long and I desperately needed something to play with in the mean time.
    B/ The wife won't let me play with superbikes any more, (too much metal in my legs)!
    I didn't want to spend big money, I've a tatty old 3 series I use for day to day running around that's at the point of replacement, but the truth is...
    C/ where else can you get this much car for this little cash, it just ticks all the boxes and if it weren't for the fuel costs they'd be as common as E39s.

    I've one I've removed from a spare door that I pick up to replace mine, I'll check the numbers and let you know tomorrow if it's the right one.
    The one I have is left/passenger side (UK car), if it's the right one and you'll cover the postage it's your for free.

    That's uttlerly amazing, not the `going to explode any time now` turbo mod' but the level of fame that can be had from showing some mates, and then the world, just how bloody stupid you are :lol:

    We stock the Morris range of oils and I'd go for the XFS (extreme fully synthetic) 80W/140 LSD differential oil every time.
    We supply Vauxhall for use in the Monaro race cars as well as TVR Tuscan racers and the like, it's good stuff and at a little over thirty quid a gallon is pretty reasonable compared to the bigger name brands.
    As for Red Line, it's kind of like Marmite, people seem to love it or hate it, I work at a gearbox builders and have seen the damage this stuff can do when it overheats and starts blocking oilways and cooking synchros so couldn't recomend it (unless you've tried everything else and still have problems).
    I believe there's an article floating about on the web slagging it off (it was posted on one of the Ford forums some time back) explaning in some detail why it doesn't work, what made it interesting reading was the fact that was allegedly written by the guy that originaly designed the stuff.
    Disgruntled ex company employee? don't know, but worth a read anyway.

    Not sure if it's relevant to our cars but a friend took his '98 E36 coupe for a re-gas and while it made it better it wasn't as cold as it could have been. It was serviced about 4 months later and part of the service was a new pollen filter, all of a sunden the aircon starts blowing nice and cold!

    The 2002- 760 (E65/E66) may be a good candidate to donate discs and calipers for an E31 big break conversion.
    I've just been looking through the break catalogue and if there's enough clearance to the suspension these might work a treat, you'll need big wheels though. :lol:
    The discs are 374mm dia' and at 36mm thick are 4mm thicker but they have a 4mm deeper bell (81mm total), so the overall offset is the same as an 850 (at 77mm) they just sit 4mm deeper into the chassis, hence the clearance issue.
    The center hole is the same at 79mm, they're on 5+1 stud (850/840 is on 5+2) so drilling would be needed but if we've got (or can get) that extra clearance needed at the back of the disc it could be a good option.
    With a little luck it'd be just a case of getting some caliper mounts machined up and then find a dead 760.
    Has anyone here got a 760 they'd care to start ripping apart so we can have a look? :shock:

    Cheers Terry,
    I thought it worth asking but now know I'll be looking elsewhere if I'm going to get the CR up on this engine.
    Peter, with an 8.8:1 CR it seems to me there's power just sitting there waiting to be tapped, it's just a question of how much you've got to pay for how much of a gain?

    Top result


    Working in the transmission industry this is the kind of thing we do on a regular basis so I've been following this thread with some interest.
    I've only had my 850i for a few weaks and am rebuilding it after someone had a bit of a `moment` (see gallery pictures) :shock: so while we've a geat deal of experiance with other vehicles the 850/840 is a new one for us.
    Speaking to one of our suppliers earlier this weak he mentioned that a BMW breakers was having a bit of a clearout and did we want an E34 M5 dog leg gearbox?
    After sorting prices for this and some other stuff I mentioned that I was on the look out for a cheap `big` BMW diff in 3.9:1 if they had one (and explained the type of models this diff was fitted to from what I'd picked up from this thread).
    He says they have an E34 535/M5 LSD sat there so we agree he'll bring it over with the other stuff for me to take a look.
    I assume from what I've read that my euro spec' 1991 850i 4 speed auto has a 3.15:1 open diff so when it turns out that the one he's bought over is a 3.64:1 LSD I remind him that it's the 3.9:1 that I really wanted so we agree on fifty quid for it :D
    I got it on the bench and had the rear cover off stright away and it's in great condition :D , I recon' it should knock half a second off the 0-60 so I'm well chuffed to say the least :D
    Anyway, the main reasons for this post is firstly let you guys know that we have a gear ratio calculator on our web site that's really handy for getting an idea of how gear/final drive ratio and tyre sizes can have an effect on the car and is well worth a look if you're considering this kind of conversion.
    It's here: http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/inforatios.html
    And, when we get around to doing the diff swap on my car we'll rebuild it first so we'll then know the ins and outs of the job, know the parts prices and availability for any bits needed and will be able to offer anything from a ratio swap/diff rebuild to an all in `drive in, drive out` service to other E31 owners.
    The fun and games will always be getting a supply of the right diffs but if a customer can supply the diff all the better.
    Happy days :D

    I've noticed on the E31.net technical data page ( http://www.e31.net/navtechnik_e.html ) that the early 850i M70 is listed as having a compression ratio of 8.8:1 and the M73 cars as 10:1.
    Does anyone know if these engines share much in common and will parts interchange to allow the compression to be raised on the M70 by a simple M73 parts swap?

    Hi Peter, as well as the 850i that I've just bought (see gallery) I've an old E36 318i that has exactly the same problem, but with 220 thousand miles on the clock it can be forgiven and it's just not worth the time and effort to fix it.
    With this type of shift problem there are some other possibilties (such as a worn or bent selector fork) but it starts to get a bit obscure from there on so you could almost put money on it being worn synchromesh on second gear.
    I'm fairly qualified to give advise on this as I work at CTS and this kind of thing is our daily bread and butter, and probably explains why I can't be bothered to fix the 318i :oops:

    Can anyone identify the correct pins on the door multiplug to power up a door window on a door that's not on the car.
    Am I right in assuming it's OK to fire 12v (straight from a spare battery) to the correct pin/pins to raise the window?
    I know the electronics manual is on this site but as I don't speak or read German I've not been able to work it out :?
    Anyone got any ideas?