Beiträge von rcrad6653

    It isn't all that hard, it's just fiddly. There are two main attachments on either side, two are obvious and two are not. There are bolts in the side that are easy to see when the door is opened. Then, there are two smaller bolts hidden under some foam stuff at the base of the A-pillars (removal of those are required) Once those are out all others are self explanitory.

    Zitat von robmarrs;82250

    Couldn't agree more, some people have a real inflated view of worth! but then it only takes one.... I think the fact that steve's old 840sc is still about with the dealer still asking silly money shows that people really want an original example and not something thats been tinkered with to much.


    It's interesting you say that Robin. With all the mods I've done to the car's suspension and brakes - which are true upgrades -and this winter the TT and possible 6spd conversion, that little voice always asks "Are you actually devaluing the car there, dude?" Not that it matters really because the car isn't for resale and for my own enjoyment, but still......

    Some days are just like that.... had one similar just recently so my sympathies. You need the patience of Job anyway when attempting the radio removal as it's quite fiddly sometimes, and that's not easy when on a tight rushed schedule.

    Zitat von Noggie;81669

    ....I enjoyed Gerry's 600hp threads, but to me they where great reading material.... guess I could have posted a "great post" comment in it, but I really did not see the point at the time.
    I have spoken to John numerous times, I've actually even visited him in DC.
    During these conversations I got the impression that John and Gerry where speaking frequently, and that parts of the kit that John now offers might have been a joint engineering process between the two.



    +8 to all that Egil. I was just at John's yesterday and can echo everything said. I too Gerry, have read everything you've written with great interest and feel properly chastised now for not commenting to show acknowledgment...:top:


    Personally I'd change those rotors doc, with that much wear showing.

    I want to keep this thread going to get an answer to Jason's original question. I get it about leaving gas in the tank for normal reasons but in my case I'm removing the tank from a breaker. So what is the best way to do it?

    This quoted from HERE, and what I used as a guide.


    [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Helv]The starter relay will need to be replaced with a jumper wire from terminal #30 to terminal #87, the terminals are numbered on the underside of the existing relay. Note that the car will now start in any gear with or without the clutch pedal depressed. In order to provide an interlock, one could use the same 4-pin switch as the later style brake light switch, one pair of pins is normally closed, which will be used for the cruise control cancel, and the normally open pair can be wired to the fuse box starter relay socket in lieu of the jumper wire from pins 30 & 87 and that will ensure that it will only start when the clutch pedal is depressed. [/FONT]

    +1 to what Arnie said. A diagnostic is money well spent in this case, but the easiest and cheapest initial approach is checking/changing the sensors, cleaning the ASC+T filter down in front of the radiator, and a pentosin flush if you never did that.

    Smiley, I'd like to get some more information about the stalk mod please.... what/where/how, etc. If you could post or PM that over I'd really appreciate it. Also, if that's a K&N filter up front I'll admit it looks and sounds fantastic but experience from other owners has revealed it can cause problems..... clogs the MAF, and although it's touted as a cold air filter actually introduces hotter air into the system. The induction system in both the 840's and 50's is really efficient and like the exhausts one of the best you can get out of the box. Nice job on your car and I like the choices you've done to make it yours. Cheers.

    Did you take it for a good run or just let it idle for a bit? These cars are made to be driven and the symptoms describe improper oil flow getting up to the cams, etc. I'd wager it wouldn't be there after even a 10 mile spirited trek.

    I'd love to see that link smiley... I'm familiar already with fitting a csi nose and have been seriously considering the zeemax for some time, and fitment issues were a concern.... most appreciated, thx.

    Zitat von 8Tech;79437

    They are very common to be missing and I keep a bag full of them so no car leaves here without a full set. Good chance to check that AC electric fan whilst the cover is off and vacuum out all the debris from the radiators.


    8Tech.


    .....but you just know that Gerry has custom billet color matched anodized versions available up on the top shelf Steve.....:mrgreen:

    Zitat von arnie;79416

    I think that a 2ohm resistor can be connected instead of a new mat, to determine if the existing one is the problem. Some people substitute the mat permanetly with a resistor, but it does mean that the passenger airbag will alway deploy with the driver's one, regardless of whether the passenger seat is occupied or not.



    Personally I'd want the passenger bag working... the person needing this is just fine today because of it....interesting though is that the upper lid blew off hard enough to completely smash and push outward the windscreen... lotta force there.