Thanks for posting, there's some really interesting cars on the auction list, my favourites include the Armstrong Siddeley and especially the NSU RO80 - it's amazing how this car still manages to look reasonably modern, it's a shame they were so let down by the Wankel technology not being up to the task at the time, if they'd used a conventional engine that car would possibly have been a real winner.
Beiträge von argonaut
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Zitat von reinhard;105098
The Quarry Motors car has been sitting there for a while. It is a converted LHD!
The other one clearly does not have many useable parts left.
Cheers
Reinhard
Yes, after posting the Quarry motors link I then noticed that it's been there for a wee while.
The other one looks pretty far gone really -
breaking 840
Heads up, Quarry motors have a breaker:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-…ts_SM&hash=item564b6d00b1
Plus here's another listing for an odd item:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-…es_JN&hash=item416d3d6874 -
Zitat von Wildatheart;105032
Indeed - which they call 'wedge' for some reason.
Probably because it's called "keil" (wedge) in German but I've no idea why.
So, tell us some more about that Esprit Turbo you've got, any pictures?
Also one of my favourite cars.
Somewhere 8maybe Pistonheads) I read a build story about someone that put an Audi V8 4.2ltr engine into an old Esprit, it looked very well done and there were some Youtube videos of the end result, it was a seriously quick car. -
sunroof panels are another known area with problems.
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Zitat von reinhard;104303
Outstanding...
This seems to be CC88189, formerly owned by Peter Rice, sold only a couple of months ago.
With all that work done and reading "car was left with me at my unit in Billingshurst for 10 days." along with "turned out to be the bane of my life for a full day in the end" - what are the charges for such a painful experience?
Anyone an idea?
Cosmoline is actually quite easily removed via dry ice blasting. Half an hour and it´s gone (currently 100EUR for a "like new" engine compartment here).
Cheers
Reinhard
Just as a very rough price guide Reinhard, in 2010, I paid a little over 450 GBP for a full detail but be warned, that was Hungarian pricing. The whole job took nearly 4 days to complete. Such work I would expect to be more expensive in the UK but it's worth it - most especially if you're ever considering selling the car, the detailing costs can be more than offset by the sale value increase 8in an ideal market of course).
Cheers,
Jason
PS detailing pics of my car are in my galeries if you want to take a look at the sort of work that was done -
A visitor, Bulgarian number plates.
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I’ve decided to start a new thread as otherwise the topics would be getting mixed up and lead to confusion for anyone searching on the topic in the future.
@ Gerry, ref your reply quoted below. KDS alignment was done by you for me a couple of years ago and everything was all OK (I know it was a couple of years ago but the car has actually only been driven about 6,000 miles since then.) At the same time, both of the trailing arm bushes you mentioned were also renewed (invoice shows 2 rear upper outer balljoints)
Is it possible or likely that those bushes need doing again after that amount of mileage?
Cheers,
Jason
Zitat von 8Tech;103962Unlikely, that joint would account for continuously changing camber, but most likely this would NOT cause inner edge wear.
Zitat von 8Tech;103962
I would suspect rear tracking to be at fault.
You need to check all the balljoints back there and especially those front bushes in the rear trailing arms.
Sorry to keep on about those but they always get missed and they are difficult to diagnose as they support a couple on tons of car so the hand wiggle test is worthless and a big lever bar in there, about 3 feet long is needed to check them. If the rubber is visually separating from the outer case of the bush, it will probably fall apart when the arm is removed!! These will cause excessive front/aft motion of the trailing arms/axle, continuously altering the toe between toe out during acceleration, and toe in during braking and decelleration.
If you are confident everything is secure back there, you need an alignment and you need it with the car correctly loaded, ie, a KDS.
Specs are.....
Full tank of fuel
14kg in the boot
68kg in each front seat.
Then do the alignment. Models vary slightly but as a safe bet, when loaded, set rear tracking at parallel to 1/4 degree toe in and camber from 1 to 2 degree negative. The nearer the -2 to improve handling especially if you have front camberplates fitted, overall nearer 1.5 deg negative for optimum without camberplates.
Hope that helps,
8Tech. -
Good find and a great detail job.
DW is a site where I spend far too much time -
Hi Fraser,
I had a new screen fitted a couple of years back via Gerry at Phoenix. He uses a company that know what they're doing, I think it was called something like Old Skool Screens but Gerry would know. The difference between old and new was like night and day, the old screen had thousands of micro scratches that scattered light, the new is as clear as well, glass really.
BTW, I think Wayne meant Jeweler's Rouge (not rough, probably just a typo), it might be worth having a go with that first.
Cheers -
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Matt, the erroneous error messages can be caused by wiring breaks in the loom where it passes into the boot lid. Over time the wiring fatigues and the insulation breaks down causing a short circuit and false error messages. Often it's the earth connection. Have a look at this thread - I had this with my car and it's quite common:
http://www.8er.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7582
The above would apply for errors warning you about rear lamps.
For the heads and fogs I recommend you check inside the headlamp buckets for broken insulation in the wiring, especially where it follows tight curves, the headlamp wiring is known to be only just about adequate for the current loading when the cars were new, over time it's no longer up to the job. 8tech made up some uprated headlamp looms so if yours do need replacing it might be worth asking him if he has any left if you don't want to make it yourself.
Have a look here:
http://www.8er.org/forum/showt…highlight=headlamp+wiring -
@ Gerry - a quick question, I recently refitted my 18" wheels back on the car. Upon removing the 17" rears I noticed that one of them has an almost bald area on the inside shoulder - bald all the way around. My guess is that this is an alignment issue, could bearing #10 as listed above be the culprit for this?
Cheers
Jason -
Some good work and items from Gerry on that car I think - I spotted the drilled discs and then saw the Phoenix list in the write up. Nice looking car and the National Lottery this week is at 80 million
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Looks to be a nice example - some interesting comments on the PH discussion thread.
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I'd love to see the pictures but I'm just getting the infamous red "X" showing, are the pics hosted somewhere else?
In the meantime, one of my favourite roads would be the A3, Frankfurt to Cologne through the Taunus Forest - long sweeping bends, nice hills and a fast road, great in the 8, Cologne to Frankfurt direction is my favourite version of this stretch. I doubt it's the best though. -
One item is interesting, the seller or the person that created the "genuine" sticker for the acoustic hood can't spell Stuttgart correctly. Maybe a hint about the quality of the rest of it?
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It's all relative, salaries may be higher in Norway but if everything is more expensive it doesn't make any difference, your purchasing power remains relatively the same as for the locals in another country. It's only apparent that Norway is "expensive" for people from a country with a lower per capita income level e.g. UK - we would consider paying something like €8 for a coffee as expensive.
Petrol and Cigarette prices can be misleading due to the massive taxation but relative to average income, cigarettes are deliberately expensive in many countries.
I remember from living in Denmark that cars are very expensive. Still, I think even Scandinavia has a way to go yet to catch up with the prices in Singapore -
Which is kind of what I posted in response number #11 to this thread last week - ah well...
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Nice repair and a good tip about the sheet of copper, well done.