Beiträge von anguswolfendale

  • Rev Limiter & Gear Change

    1999 840 Auto


    Fitted:
    LSD 3.91 diff from E34 M5.
    Custom exhaust with 100-cell fast-flow cats
    Stock engine (M62) and Auto-box.


    Problem:
    When in Sport Mode and under full acceleration (accelerator pedal to the floor) the final gear change to top gear is faltering as the revs hit the limiter-level which causes a miss-fire right when the gearbox is trying to change gear.


    Anyone know what I can do about this? I have looked (without success) to find someone who can remap the ECU and Transmission Control Unit together.

  • Full Respray

    Thought I would update this thread. The paint job I had done back in 2015 turned out to be a disaster. The guy was incompetent and I could not trust him near the car, even to do remedial work (of which there was plenty). Now, over a year later, I have managed to save enough to have a total respray at another bodyshop. Taking the car apart for this work was easy as I had already done the work the year previous. I have had to buy some trim pieces and was surprised to find some still available, e.g:
    51112252019 Support
    51321970008 Door Mirror Inner Cover (only RIGHT SIDE available)
    51718108379 Gasket (Door Sill Seal)
    51112253002 Cover (Covers the Number Plate panel securing screws on the M-Technic front bumper)


    I'll try and get some in progress and finished results pictures posted over the next few weeks.

  • Washer Jet Pipes Leaking

    No Timm, I just used a small pair of electrical end-cutting nippers: Like - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Knip…m:m5tNobUY8nCWqzbnvoa__JQ


    I did find that the damn headlamp washer pump was leaking from the vent hole between the pump impeller and the motor. This is the third pump I have bought for the car over the years and, as they are a sealed unit, I thought irreparable. They are no longer available and there are no substitutions. I did locate one on Ebay but the guy wants £168 + £20 delivery!!! They were only £86.33+VAT when I bought the last one from BMW in 2015 just 250 miles ago!! As it is over a year and was a factory order it is not under warranty or returnable. Cheap crap is all I can say.


    So I found a small piece of plastic sheet and cut it to size to cover the hole: Super-glued it in place then covered the whole with reinforcing powdered resin and activated with super-glue. That did the trick!

  • Washer Jet Pipes Leaking

    I was getting poor spray pattern from my washer jets, despite cleaning them out with a pin. Then I discovered the pipes were leaking where they fit onto the "T" pieces and onto the jet bodies under the bonnet. The cheap clips had lost their grip and needed replacing. I found these on Ebay and they are just the job:


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2624…geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


    Make sure you put the clip onto the "T" piece first, then push the pipe onto the "T" piece, over the "hump" then feed the clip over the end of the pipe as you push it fully home. It's a really close fit, but when you then clamp them up they are really water tight! Full pressure back again so I can spray the guy behind! :laugh:

  • Custom Exhaust Fitted!

    I'm now considering an ECU and TCU remap with JR Tuning in Maidstone. He can supply a hand-held programmer so you copy existing programme from the car and email the file to him - he remaps and mails it back, then you upload it to the car. You can change it back to stock at any time. Has anyone used this company or process?

  • Custom Exhaust Fitted!

    Just had a custom stainless exhaust designed and fitted by Cybox of the Wirral, Cheshire.


    [Cybox Unit 8, Wrynose Rd, Old Hall Industrial Estate, Bromborough CH62 3QD 0151 343 0330]


    Fast-Flow 100-cell Cats, X Pipe, Anti-drone silencers and finally, rear silencers that have the OEM look at the back. The car feels much more "open/free" when accelerating (the only way I can describe it), plus the sound is awesome (well I think so). When you are just cruising the car sounds no different from stock until you hit the throttle.:mrgreen:


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/33212/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/33213/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/33214/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/33215/



    https://youtu.be/VmEKQJsGmsE


    Sorry for the rather amateur film making!

  • Key will not return to position 0

    I spent the morning exploring where the relay(s) for the interior lights might lurk. I was told to look behind the kick panel on the passenger footwell but could find nothing of note there. Checked the two fuses in the boot and they are OK. Swapped the two green relays over that reside in the same boot location but still can't get the interior lights to work. Everything else on the car is working (touch wood), except the headlamp washers and the interior lights - damn frustrating. Could it be the GM? I have a set of capacitors for he job of replacing them in the GM but am very nervous about doing something wrong that renders the car unusable.

  • Key will not return to position 0

    Got the chaps at SK Automotive on the Wirral (close to where I am contracting) to replace the starter and everything is fine, thankfully. I had tried to remove the starter earlier in the year, using a mate's pit, but there was no way I could get a spanner onto the retaining bolts. The guys at SK did it in one hour so a £75 well spent in my opinion.


    Now just need to get the Interior Lights working and one bank (passenger) illuminated in the driver's window control switch unit. Any suggestions on either of these issues would be appreciated.:top:

  • 'Is there anybody there?'' said the Traveller,

    Hi Paul,
    Welcome to Wales - the land that time forgot!! I live in Foel, half way between Welshpool and Machynlleth. If you need a dealership it is a long drive and finding a reliable BMW specialist is nigh-on impossible! Whilst this forum is exceptionally quiet it is still a superb resource for assistance and knowledge.

  • Key will not return to position 0

    Went to it today and turned the ignition to start - ominous "clink" sound from starter but didn't turn engine over. Tried again and it started so I guess it needs a new starter (well solenoid at least). I hear they are a pig to get out with everything else in situ. Any handy tips anyone?

  • Key will not return to position 0

    FRUSTRATION: I turned the ignition on, but the car wouldn't start, tried a few times, then it fired up, drove it out of the garage and the next morning it will not start. The ignition comes on, but when I turn the key - nothing!! It's a 1999 model so I don't know if it has the Start Relay fitted, but I've bought one anyway and will try to find it's location (inside passenger footwell, behind speaker grille?). If this doesn't fit or solve the problem, perhaps a re-initiation of the keys? ANy thoughts TIm?

  • Key will not return to position 0

    Zitat von Timm;88397

    I replaced the lock tumbler - which was quite fiddly to say the least! No Bowden cable on the later models, the interlock is electronic. Here's how it is done:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/L…k_Tumbler_Replacement.htm

    And, the money shot:


    Thanks for the help on this one, it was a bit tricky (but easy once you have done it)!


    Timm,
    I had my ignition lock turning in a complete rotation and read you excellent article on replacing the lock and determined it was the small Tang that had broken off. This proved to be the case. I have to say, that without your comments regarding perseverance, I would have given up on trying to get the old lock out and have the car taken to the main agents. Eventually, after keep returning to the new lock to "test" the process, I eventually got the old lock out after 1.5 hours of sheer frustration. I noted that the alignment of the cut-outs inside the lock aperture were incorrect for the fitment of the new lock (because the old lock had turned in position) so had to move these with a screwdriver.


    New lock and new key all working great - thanks again! (although I have not been able to register all three original keys with the central locking/GM module) How do you tell which is the "first" key to use in the registration process?

  • Respray

    looks fantastic! What shade of red is that - hellrot? Mine was resprayed by a cowboy (I didn't realise at the time) but the finish has not been heat cured and is still soft so I've booked it in for July for a complete strip back and full respray. Getting the hang of stripping the body parts and refitting now! Will post up pictures when done.

  • Motivated

    Oh dear, sounds a tad expensive - however, I am pleased to hear you can still get these parts!..I make it an annual job to wire-brush all lines and hand coat them in grease and spraying waxoyl on them where I can't get my hand to them. Let us know how you get on.