Long story short: I found the wheels I want (finally) but the seller only does pickup. He is right outside of Stuttgart, Germany.
I really need someone to pick up the wheels and ship them to Wokke/Wolfgang for refinishing and shipping out of Germany.
If I can find someone, I will give them 100 Euro + whatever shipping costs! I really want these wheels.
My direct email is auraraptor0@yahoo.com
Please help me out!!
Zitat von sparklesmcgraw;65005Not a bad idea. I will look into getting 275 PS2's for the car then. Although it will be a shame to downsize slightly as I love the look of them from behind. Although I doubt I would notice any difference.
Can I run 275 PS2's with my 235/40/18 fronts until I get around to changing those to PS2's aswell withought any problems? At least off the top of my head I think they are 235's on the front, maybe they are 245's I will have to double check.
Yes. It will just fine. The height works out to be fine F/R.
Make sure the weight/load rating is correct for your tire.
235/40-18 or 245/40-18 (ideal)
275/35-18
OOps double post
Zitat von Radron;64813Hi I'm sure that a 295 would go on a 9.5 rim but the footprint would not be the same. I cant see that it would make a considerable difference IMHO but overtired cars have greater rolling resistance and it may also rub against your arches.
I would stick with the 1s. If you dont have them currently, I do and they are excellent tyres and IMO the best looking make the car look very agressive.
No, it does not safely fit. I would know, I have tried it.
The seat of the bead is not perfect. It is visibly fine, but it is actually at the limit of the thread's adhesion on the (for the size) narrow rim. This manifests while driving under any form of strain as the tire collectively "slipping" on the rim. The car will shake back and forth as the tire attempts a reseal (which it eventually does).
The PS2 is another league/category of tire above the PS1 in terms of performance...but if you buy tires for the "aggressive look" it probably is the wrong tire for you. 
On topic, why not just run a 275 rear? A 275 PS2 WILL outperform a 285 PS1 tire. I know, I have both. PS1s WERE great tires and WERE worth the cost many many years ago when they were still new(ish). Now they are an old design.
I run PS2 front, PS1 rear on my Mercedes for now. It gives the car a bit of front bias more in terms of grip and braking. Eventually, I will go all PS2 all around. It is fine though, as the setup predisposes to LESS understeer, given the sheer grip of the PS2s.
The PS2 does not come in a 285/35-18. It does come in a 295/35-18, IIRC, but that tire does not safely fit on a 9.5in wide wheel.
I run PS2s on my E31 as well (255F/285R) as summer (19in) tires, while I run Bridgestone S01s as winter/city/bad road tires on 17in wheels.
Buy PS2s...much better then the PS1.
I am looking for a set of bumper lights/turn signals. The main glass just needs to be perfect condition with no pits/scatches/cracks/melting on the reflector. I don't care what condition the actual turn signal lenses are in. Please let me know if you can help out! 
I would buy it at $500 USD, $600USD shipped tops, but at 800 EURO, it is too risky for me.
Aww 
at 799Euro its too pricey to buy on whim. Oh well..
I was wondering if anyone actually saw this bumper on a real car. I tried searching and did not find any info with real pictures, etc.
The Quaife should not have that problem, it applies lock very smoothly, unlike clutch based systems. You should not be able to feel it engage.
The Quaife you need is the 'QDF5N' model.
A built one is very rare, espically for the E31. Expect $2500-$3000 complete.
+1 on everything stated. Tire pressures are very important to consider, as is F/R tire widths relative to each other. Tony, your car is setup for a lot of grip, but with a lot of understeer, but that will feel great in the hands on a non-track driver. Keep ASC on!
As you get more comfortable, dial up the rear stiffness with a better rear bar. 
Something like a 19mm which will be avail.... 
With Eibach springs, I very much suggest replacing the rear springs with the OEM Mtech Sport spring or CSi spring for better balance. IF YOU HAVE THEM LAYING AROUND. You Euro guys are lucky since many cars came with them factory. Don't go out and buy them. First work with the sway bars and see if you can get the balance you like.
Noggie, do you have an LSD? Which one? You might be feeling it due to your very stiff setup.
I agree.... The CSi is a great setup. I use it as my benchmark.
My only suggestions for improvement would be first: The addition of a 19mm rear bar, and then after (not before) the replacing the front and only the front springs with Eibach.
I am looking for one Style 21 Throwing Star wheel in 8in x 17 ET10.
Condition is not that important, nor is having the cover, screws, etc. I just want the actual wheel itself.
Please let me know!
Part I: Suspension Basics
So you want to upgrade your suspension. The 'jury' is far from out on what to do, and how to do it. Alll of this is pretty well established now.
Lowering Springs Combos:
Front Spring stiffness Guide: (Soft) Racing Dynamics < OEM < Dinan < Mtech* = H&R < CSi < Eibach (Stiff)
Rear Spring stiffness Guide: (Soft) Racing Dynamics < H&R Rear < OEM < Cut OEM Rear = Eibach Rear < Mtech Rear < CSi Rear < Dinan SIII rear (Stiff)
Springs Setups are listed with the proper F/R rate balance in order of softest to stiffest Front spring (realize soft is a relative term, all are stiffer then stock and I have not included those less then stock):
Note: Racing Dynamics and H&R Rear springs should be avoided!
*Same rate, but less drop then H&R fronts
**I have not worked out the balance on this setup of springs yet
Shocks (Softest to stiffest):
Make sure to get the CSi secondary shock absorber as well
Swaybars:
Cost no option:
Cheaper options:
"Other"
shock bushings are in development with Phoenix motorsports
*The strongstrut/any other strut bar DOES work. First realize it is not to limit vertical flex, as many incorrectly assume, rather lateral flex which the E31 does suffer, albeit slightly, from. Even BMW realized this, and that is why later cars were given the "cross brace" lower front (and why early cars cannot use later swaybars and vice versa). As such, you will see the most improvement with early, pre-cross brace cars. Cars will the factory cross brace will also benefit, but not nearly as much.
Part II: Technical Data
Special Thanks to Mwrench and Rod)
The goal with a good suspension setup is to reduce understeer. Our cars have quite a bit "out of the box." Understeer can be addressed by either stiffer rear springs (relative to the front) or stiffer rear sway bar (again relative to front). Use the OE as a baseline, and work toward less understeer.
Spring Comparison %F-%R (again, higher the %Front value, more understeer)
Sway Bar Comparison
The key here is to divide the Front/Rear and compare the ratio to the OEM setup. Use this with the F-R balance mentioned above to choose the best swaybar (over vice versa the best spring setup) for your desired driving:
*Adjustable bars that allow tuning of the actual F/R ratio, and as such the value can only be an approximation of the actual.
Summary
What does this all mean? Based on the data, you cannot simply choose parts and put them together. Sure it will drive just fine, but you will be setting your car up for far to much oversteer if you are not careful. Best bet is to balance your suspension around your desires and expectations.
Abstract: I wanted a place that has relative values of the different lips of the TS wheels in one place. Also, I wanted to discuss an approach that would allow you to mimic the MKS wheel size as best one could with the 17in TS wheels.
Specifications:
First, read the background on Style 21 TS wheel:
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/e31/…e/msgsy2001w05/12223.html (Special thanks to Tony for finding the link!)
Here are specification of the key variants Style 21 throwing star wheels and MK Wheels (E32 spec is ignored due to its offsets):
E31 Spec Style 21 TS Wheels:
17x8 ET10 theoretical-lip: 91.6mm
17x9 ET19 theoretical-lip: 95.3mm
E34 Spec Style 21 TS Wheels:
17x8 ET20 theoretical-lipt: 81.6mm
17x9 ET22 theoretical-lip: 92.3mm
E31 Spec MK Motorsport Wheels
18x9.5 ET5 theoretical-lip: 115.65mm
18x11 ET21 theoretical-lip: 118.7mm
Notes:
Discussion:
First note that the E31 spec wheels TS wheels have a greater theoretical lip then the E34 spec wheels...so much so that the rears of the M5 have only a touch more lip then the E31 fronts! (Difference of 0.7mm or less then 1/32 an inch!)
Using 17x9 Rear Wheels in the Front
I considered using the rears all around. I am still not sure if it will clear the front strut unspaced. Will check later. Either way, I know I can use 12mm spacers to get the offset to a nice ET7. Using 10mm spacers it comes down to ET9, also fine. Do not use anything less then 10mm spacers with proper bolts.
Extending the Rear wheels
I did the calculations, and widening the rear wheels by 1 in will still be ok. The MKS wheels total internal lip is 160.7mm, compared to 133.3mm of the 9in ET19 wheel. So you can safely extend the inner edge by one inch and not have clearance issues. Combined with the above, you can have 17x9 Fronts and 17x10 rears. 
Extending the Front wheels
Again, I did the calculations, and widening the rear wheels by 1 in will MOST LIKELY still be ok. Again, the MKS wheels total internal lip is 160.7mm, compared to 111.6mm of the 8in ET10 wheel. Extending the inner edge by two inches will MOST LIKELY not have clearance issues, since they are only 1.7mm extension inward relative to the MKS Monster wheels. Still though, combined with the above, you can have 17x9 Fronts and 17x10 rears.
Summary
If you want close to the MKS size, but don't like the style, you can rather easily do a 17x9 Front (using 10/12mm spacers and rear wheels), and 17x10 Rear (widened from a 9in rear using no spacers) or even 17x11 Rears (widened from 9in rear using 20mm rear spacers)
Danke Reinhard!
BOTH 8.5 x 17 ET13 and the 9.0 x 17 ET9 gives the same inner clearance as the MKS wheels mentioned above (10mm more then the 9in wide ET19 wheel we are discussing)
Now that 3 different wheels all have matched this value, I am suspecting it may be the limit and 10mm spacers will be a "must."
My goal was to run a set of factory Throwing star 17x9 ET19 wheels all around...guess that will be with spacers too! 
I wanted to ask the experts here, would a 17x9 ET19 wheel clear the front strut without issue?
I was comparing it to the other wide wheel options I was aware of for the E31 that clear without spacers, namely:
ACS/Ronal 8.5in wide ET15
MK Motorsports 9.5in wide ET5
Compared to ACS, the wheel sticks in a further 12mm. (therefore 12mm spacers should clear)
Compared to the MKS, the wheel sticks in a further 10mm (therefore a 10mm spacer would make it clear)
Based on this, I realize I may need at least a 10mm spacer.
The question is, however has anyone tried this/similar and what was your experience?
