Does anyone know where I can find the part numbers for the electrical connectors attached to wiring looms (specifically the cruise control wiring set)? I am asking because my local dealer says that the complete loom is no longer available, so I now want to manufacture my own. I can find all the information for the actual wiring (cable colours and sizes, connector pins, etc.) but cannot find the connector part nos in the EPC. Any help greatly appreciated.
Beiträge von hedgehog
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Only just resolved this issue. It turns out that both parts (even though different) have the same part number! The only way I got what I wanted was for the stealler to keep ordering the same part until one of the shouldered type turned up. BMW now say there are no more left! Sounds to me like they messed up from the start and never assigned a part number to this item and now they can't be bothered to sort things out - neither can they be bothered to sort the two different items into two bins, instead of the one bin they obviously have at the moment.
I hope nobody else ever requires one of these, because it requires a lot of cooperation and determination by both customer and dealer. I have to commend Sytner in Leicester for sticking it out to the bitter end and getting me the part.
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I have been using the 'Battery Tender' for the last 2 years and it really is foolproof. I made a permanent connection under the hood to the B+ and ground terminals with one of the supplied leads that has a connector on the other end and just plug the charger in over the winter with absolutely no problems at all. It is an 'intelligent' piece of equipment and keeps the batteries in peak condition.
Have a look here for details -
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I have to say Ukzero's suggestion sounds like the answer, as one of my other cars suffered exactly the same problem and that was blocked drainage.
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I use a 'Battery Tender' trickle charger, which is the same make BMW put their own logo on. Before I used this regularly, the batteries lasted around 2-3 weeks and I will now never leave the car without connecting the charger, because the last time I did, the batteries became discharged below the level required to unlock and open the doors or trunk/boot and this was a nightmare!
As you can imagine, if the doors cannot be opened, then you cannot get to the hood release handle. This obviously means you cannot get to the batteries to recharge them from the trunk or the hood without knowing the method of manually opening the trunk - read the owners handbook.
I, unfortunately, had also left my keys inside the car, which although unlocked, could not be entered, due to the windows not lowering when pulling the door handle! I had to buy a valet key in order to get in the trunk.
Watch out as well, if you try to recharge the batteries from the terminals under the hood. If the batteries are extremely flat, they will almost certainly draw a current large enough to blow the 3 amp in-line fuse.
My batteries took a long time to recover from the extreme discharge, even though they were genuine BMW replacements and only around 2 years old, so all I would say is, beware!
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Can anyone suggest a method of getting sufficient numbers of owners to commit to buying, before I put the manufacturing process into action? This is a large sum of money to put up and I would not like to lose it should sales not reach the numbers required to break even.
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I have made enquiries about the manufacture of clear side repeaters, as copies of the original amber ones for the 8, and would be interested to know how many, if any, owners would be interested in purchasing these items if they were available.
The costs I have been quoted are as follows:
For the tooling - a total of GBP 6,300.00
For the manufacture of LH and RH lens and body pair - GBP 2.80 (run of 250) and GBP 2.20 (run of 500)This works out at GBP 28.00 per pair if 250 sales can be guaranteed and GBP 14.80 per pair if 500 sales can be guaranteed.
How many people would be interested, do you think, and how would I go about obtaining a commitment from suitable numbers of owners?
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Nice idea Reinhard, but the dealer's oldest parts department staff member cannot find any information on any system, so photographs of the required parts have been sent to BMW. Hopefully they will be able to identify them and should have plenty in stock, if nobody has been able to order them for lack of a part number!
I'll report back with the results.
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It is the drying container and I had the same problem. At first I thought I would be able to buy a bracket on its own, but it was not possible. In the end I had to buy a new dryer and have it fitted at a cost of £132 + labour at a specialist.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/7497/ -
Possibly not quite so much trouble as having to deal with the results of allowing an acid attack on the body structure to develop any further though. If it was my car, I would want to neutralise the problem now rather than worry about what was happening under the tray in the future.
Alan
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I should have thought it was possible to drill out the weld spots to remove the tray. This is the normal method of removing panels for replacement.
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Wuffer changed his unit to a Euro CD43. See http://www.wuffer.net/_mgxroot/page_my_upgrades.html and scroll down the pictures.
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To update - I have consulted with the local stealer and they are going to query BMW about the parts. Hopefully they will have an answer, but I won't hold my breath!
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Good morning,
I have had a quick look at the electrical diagrams and would suggest, as a starter, to check fuse nos. 31, 33, 34, 42 and 43 in the rear power distribution box and fuse no. 29 in the front power distribution box. These all supply power to various parts of the power window system.
The front box is located at the rear LH side of the engine compartment and the rear box is in the LH side of the luggage compartment.
Hope this helps, but if you want the diagrams let me know.
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I am in the process of a complete refurbishment of my headlights, but have come across an error and omission in the EPC/ETK that someone may be able to help me with.
On the headlight actuator parts drawing, item 6 is a threaded bolt (ball joint on one end) with a part number of 63.12.1.970.639 and the quantity is shown as 4 (2 for each headlight). However, I found that each of the 2 bolts is different, with one of them being slightly longer and having a shoulder at the ball end to take one end of the damper. Ordering the above part number only gave me the shorter bolt without the shoulder and I can find no reference to the other bolt anywhere. Has anyone come across this problem?
The other problem with these bolts is that the M8 hex nut listed on the drawing at item 10 with part number 07.12.9.922.716 has the wrong thread pitch to mate with the bolt, which has a finer thread and not a standard M8. The existing nuts on my headlights are also not self-locking.
If anyone has come across the first problem above, then they may have come across the second. Any light that can be shed on these anomalies would be gratefully received.
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Thanks to you all for the quick responses. I think I might go the ready-made route and buy the kit from Martin, but I am very appreciative of the wealth of information provided by everyone. Thanks again.
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Does anyone know where I can find the details of the modification to make the centre console lighting brighter than the useless original illumination? I thought it used to be on Wuffer's website, but it is not there and Wuffer denies ever posting anything other than the photo of the brighter lighting result. He offered to send me some photos of the process as he performed the mod, but these have failed to materialise. I have not had much luck in reaching him again, so any help would be much appreciated, especially if Wuffer reads this post.
There was a post on one of the fora with a link to Wuffer's mod, but this proved to be dead, (viz. www.wuffer.net/page13). Someone must know where the info is.
I remember photos of the procedure, one of which showed the removal of the light tube behind the temperature wheels, but where it was I haven't a clue.
