Beiträge von revtor

    Zitat von BBMatic;121892

    He preferred to use "genuine BMW" GT1 software, though i had expressed a preference for INPA, but this didn't seem to matter. However I must say the device he used, a small handheld scanner , provided very primitive looking data readouts [see photos above]. So maybe I should have been more insistent, I don't know.


    Actually DIS (which is what he refers to by genuine BMW GT1 software) is by far the best diagnostic solution. INPA is great for quick fault code reading and clearing, but it does not provide the in-depth information and test plans DIS does. On the other hand, not all electronic systems have the same level of detail in DIS. For some DIS provides no more information than INPA. I have no experience with diagnosing the automatic transmission so I'm not sure what level of detail is present.


    Zitat

    Does the E31 have a newer, 16-pin OBD2 connector anywhere? I had searched this but kept finding references only to the port under the bonnet. Which is an older style connector. So, I felt pessimistic right from the start because I had assumed there was a later-style OBD2 port inside the cabin which I would find when i stuck my head down by the pedals. But after an extensive search we ended up concluding the E31 hasn't got one..please enlighten me someone?


    On M73 E31 there is actually an OBD-II connector hidden behind the dashboard (not so on M62 E31 as far as I know), but if the round under-hood OBD-I connector is present (like on all E31) you should always use that one instead of the OBD-II one! The OBD-II connector does not provide the same functionality as the round diagnostic connector. In fact all OBD-II functionality that's contained in the car is provided through the OBD-I connector.


    Zitat

    there are some extra shots stuck at the bottom of my post which i cannot figure out how to edit out: those are from the EWS, which i was going to post as a separate post. Can anyone tell me what the EWS is, by the way?


    The EWS is the electronic immobilizer but the first one of these 4 screenshots is certainly not from the EWS and I'm quite sure the rest is not either. They are most likely from the ABS/ASC system. You might have more luck with the "unknow [sic] DTC code" using INPA or DIS.


    Zitat

    I was told the fluctuation in these values was normal BTW


    That's correct. The lambda (oxygen) signal is sinusoidal and the diagnostic tool samples the value only every second or so. That's rather pointless and makes the reading only useful to identify a completely dead sensor.


    Anyway, from all your screenshots the only one relevant to your issue seems to be error code 106 "Stall-speed monitoring". This does indeed hint at the torque converter... A quick search turns up several potential causes; a bad sensor, low or wrong transmission oil, faulty torque converter,...

    That must be scary... Luckily the circuit has large run-off areas.


    What was wrong? Complete failure of the braking system, or loss of brake assist due to for example a bad brake bomb?

    BBMatic: The M62 840Ci had the ZF 5HP30 (A5S 560Z) from beginning of production until September 1996 and the ZF 5HP24 (A5S 440Z) starting from September 1996 until end of production. So your '98 840Ci does have the ZF 5HP24 automatic transmission.


    I wish I could provide more useful information about your issue, but just like Danilo I have no experience with the automatic transmission...

    Zitat von user2883;121644

    I assume by using the same procedure, I can change back to the original language?


    Yes.


    Zitat

    Also, what are the visible differences between coding the EKM/changing via service menu?


    Visible? None. We are just lucky that this particular setting can also be changed through the easily accessible service menu.


    Zitat

    The instrument display doesn't have any language specific output, right?


    No.

    Zitat von user2883;121608

    Is it possible to recode with GT1/DIS v44? I have access to DIS. Anything in particular to pay attention to? Don't want to mess something expensive up..


    Yes, but it's rather complex through DIS because you have to recalculate the vehicle's central coding key (ZCS). It's much easier through NCS Expert but in this particular case I would recommend the service menu. Just a minute work and no tools required. Here's the full reply I wrote to rogbmw:


    Service menu functions can be selected by pressing the [1000] and [10] keys simultaneously, then entering a 2-digit number between 01 and 29 on the "TEST-NR.:--" prompt with the [10] and [1] keys and finally confirming by pressing [SET/RES]. If you want to change between service menu functions, just press [1000] and [10] simultaneously again, enter the other function's number and press [SET/RES]. If you want to leave the menu, just press any other function key (consumption, temperature, check control,...).


    If you have never been in the service menu before, you first have to check whether it's unlocked and if necessary unlock it: Press [1000] and [10] simultaneously, enter 19 (lock/unlock service menu) on the "TEST-NR.:--" prompt with the [10] and [1] keys and press [SET/RES]. If the screen now says "LOCK OFF", the service menu is already unlocked. If the screen says "LOCK ON --", the service menu is still locked. To unlock the service menu, press the [DATUM] or [DATE] key to show the date. Add both month and day numbers (for example for today, June 22, that's 7 + 22 = 29) and enter the result on the "LOCK ON --" prompt with the [10] and [1] keys. Confirm with [SET/RES]. You will now return to the "TEST-NR.:--" prompt. The service menu remains unlocked until power is lost to the MID (ie battery disconnect).


    To change the language and units of the MID, enter the service menu and select function 11. Change the currently selected region with the [1000] and [100] keys (up and down). The choices are:


    • 0 D (Germany)
    • 1 US (United States)
    • 3 J (Japan)
    • 4 CDN (Canada)
    • 5 F (France)
    • 6 E (Spain)
    • 7 I (Italy)
    • 8 AUSTRAL.GOLF (Australia and Gulf States)
    • 9 UK (United Kingdom)


    There is no region 2. Once you've selected your region, save the setting by pressing [SET/RES].


    Other interesting service menu entries are:


    • 01: Display test to find out whether it's time to contact German Audio Tech...
    • 06: Current fuel tank content (only in liters)
    • 08: Digital speedometer (only in km/h)
    • 09: Battery voltage


    For the complete list, refer to Mike Coenen's e31.net website.

    That is connector X272 and it is only connected on E31 equipped with the sliding/tilting sunroof. The electrical troubleshooting manual (ETM) is wrong about its location which is probably why no one found it.


    [COLOR="#0000FF"]Moderator note: Moved the topic to the more appropriate Main Discussion forum[/COLOR]

    While I do believe that every BMW enthusiast should have a DIS, ISTA or INPA diagnostic system, don't expect wonders from it. In some cases it directly pinpoints the problem and in other cases it may hint at where to look, but quite often no relevant fault codes are stored at all. So sometimes it's just quicker to simply swap the suspected module. In this particular case I really have no idea whether diagnostics could be helpful. Both the EKM and GM do have a basic self-test that stores a fault code when it fails, but I'm not sure exactly what it covers. For the EKM there's even a special self-test function in DIS and ISTA, but again I do not know what it covers.

    That's funny because I wrote both that reply to Omegaman and the E31Wiki article... Now I have myself confused :hmmmm:. It's been several years since I looked into this but at the moment I can't think of a good reason why swapping the EEPROM wouldn't work. Anyway, you can try another EKM without recoding or swapping the EEPROM. The gauges will remain dead and the odometer will read EEEE, but other than that it is fully functional. So if you suspect the electrical issue is caused by the EKM you can test it this way.


    Anyway, Timm posted some good advice to your thread over at bimmerforums.com (link). First try to isolate what is causing the issue.

    BMW INPA is an excellent choice. I cannot recommend a seller but keep in mind that in order to use INPA with the E31 you need an ADS interface (and a computer running a 32 bit Windows with a real COM port). The popular K-DCAN interfaces for INPA do not work on the E31.

    I would start by testing the sensor with a multimeter.


    Lift the car, locate the wire that comes from the wheel hub (not the brake carrier) and follow it to its connector. Unplug the connector, check for corrosion on the contacts and if okay measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 of the end that goes to the sensor. I have not yet measured the E31 wheel speed sensors so I cannot give any reference values, but I found mention of a resistance between 0.5 and 2 ohm in an E36 forum. If you get a very high resistance or an open circuit, the sensor is bad. Next set the multimeter to measuring AC voltage (millivolt) and spin the wheel. The multimeter should pick up some voltage while the wheel is spinning. If you multimeter supports measuring frequency, you can verify whether the frequency goes up and down with the wheel speed. When in doubt, you may want to compare against another wheel speed sensor (front right for example).


    If the sensor measures out okay in resistance but not in voltage/frequency it may be dirty. Remove it (just one screw), clean it, reinsert and measure the voltage/frequency again.

    Is that an official BMW dealer or an independent? The official BMW diagnostic system should have no issues communicating with the E31.


    Anyway, with regards to E31 diagnostics you choices are rather limited. Most of the aftermarket tools simply do not work or work only on a few modules because they are meant for OBD-II cars (like the C110 BMW Scanner) or simply because they suck (like Carsoft). The ones that do work and offer the same functionality as the dealer tools are incredibly expensive (like Autologic). It's perhaps a bit sad but the only affordable solutions are pirated copies of the official BMW tools...

    You know, before the days of anti-lock braking systems and traction control we also had cars and most people managed to drive them safely. Be gentle with the throttle (especially in the wet), keep your distance and you should be okay. Naturally, if you are used to slam on the brakes and exit every corner full throttle you might be in for a surprise ;)...

    Zitat von HD;120374

    I have just read Timms write-up on bulb replace and that refers to the 4 bulbs as being there to backlight the unit at night.....this does not sound like the problem I have.


    The four bulbs are the backlight of the display. Without them the display remains dark - night and day!


    Zitat von rogbmw;120371

    Can the MID be switched from one language to another (German to English) on the settings, or does it need to be changed out?


    The MID takes over the language the EKM module is coded to. So the proper way to change the language is by recoding the EKM with NCS Expert, but there's an easier way through the MID's service menu. See e31.net for instructions on how to enter the service menu. The function you need to change is service menu 11.

    First remove the head unit. Depending on the model you may need a special tool or screwdriver for this. It's probably not necessary to disconnect the head unit, but put a towel over the center console to prevent the head unit from making scratches. With the head unit out of the way, reach in the opening and firmly press the retaining tab on the bottom of the MID while simultaneously pushing the MID towards you. Usually it slides out without much effort but sometimes the top retaining tabs block it. Just push harder and carefully wrench the unit out.


    There are 4 bulbs illuminating the display. All are of the type black B8.4D 12 V / 1.2 W (62 13 1 383 311).

    If people would stop using Instagram filters that make the photographs look ridiculously stupid, it would be much easier to identify colors... I really don't get the hype of these filters.


    Anyway, I guess it's quite safe to assume the color of the car in the background is Ferrari Red. The 850CSi has practically the same color on the picture. If the 850CSi has not been repainted my guess would be Brilliantrot (up to September 1993) or Hellrot (from July 1993 up to end of production).