Beiträge von E31

    Another every-other day visitor here!


    A lack of posts from me equates to a lack of problems; which is the way I want to keep it ;)


    Also I find the site very complicated. Sections within sections, with topic area duplication.


    It took me a long time to decide to join because I had to surrender so much personal info - home address etc. I am always nervous sending that anonymously into the internet unknown! Verifies if a user is genuine i'm sure, but a reason for slow take up perhaps?


    Another thing that I dont see, coming from the Porsche Forum, is the thread "Other 8's spotted out and about" with locations etc - which was always interesting - perhaps only to sad people like me! I think that would increase traffic to the site.


    Some thread titles that interest me are blocked as I do not have permission; which gets my goat a bit.


    However, saying all this, the 8er is a rare car, and the site is dedicated to that model alone - so I dont think it will ever be mega-popular.


    This is my only forum that I am registered to for my 8er.

    Firstly, well done that man for nominating an 8 for a bit of TLC.


    The sunroof rust you mention is quite common, so a donor car would have the same if not worse. However, a good one would make it unfinacially viable as a donor to purchase. Tough call.


    What you don't use from the donor can always be e-bayed and you may recover your cost in parts. You do need time, ebay patience (loads of stupid questions from users) and space to store the dead car. In addition to the major components, some items that you wouldn't think about go for healthy money - the trip computer (if no dead pixels), HVAC panel, front indicator assembies......


    I always like working with donor cars. When you destroy a clip, you fathom out the workings of said clip, and remove it correctly from the donor for use on the original. That can be quite handy sometimes.


    Also, remember that low mileages cars can have different problems to high mileage cars....


    Keep us informed!

    Underside pressure washed (a horrible, wet and cold task) and I have received this as a reply..... we'll see ;)


    ------------
    Dear Mr Mills


    Thank you very much for your comments.


    I would like to reassure you that we are taking your comment about the access route seriously. We are already looking into an alternative way of bringing the cars onto site so that dust and mud issues can be avoided in the future.


    Again, I thank you very much for taking the time to write to us.


    I wish you all the best.


    Kind regards


    ------------------

    Post-show and I can't argue with value for money. A car show and full museum access is good at £9.50.


    Entrance to the site was a total joke. You can't take show cars accross a muddy field! My car is in a right state. Members of the public got new tarmac, show cars got a mudbath....


    Still, I used 'winter mode' on the auto 'box for the first time to prevent getting stuck in the mud. It works and uses 2nd instead... I think...


    Will definately go again next year; on the condition I can drive on to the site using tarmac.


    Thanks for letting me on the stand... especially Timm and Bern.

    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and its just my humble opinion, but naked throwing stars get a big thumbs down from me. They look like something from Halfords!


    The throwing star is such an iconic BMW wheel, and the cool factor of having directional alloys seems such a shame to loose.


    If it was a focused driving machine where aesthetics didn't matter, the removal of the stars would give a reduction in unsprung mass; but otherwise, avoid the temptation!

    All I can suggest is that the heat element is opening and closing a broken/loose contact due to heat expansion and contraction.


    Where this broken/loose contact lies is anyones guess but I would imagine somewhere inside the starter, the brushes or the armature itself.


    The normal checks of battery, engine earth etc. are not really associated with heat so it does kind of suggest starter assembly - due to the proximity of the heat source.


    Good luck. Let us know the outcome.

    This applies for 2010 too. May 2nd this time around. Can we change the date in the title or should I create a new post. I am no forum expert!


    http://www.bmwcarclubforum.co.…/forum_posts.asp?TID=5114


    First full summer with the 8 for me, first year with the BMW Owners Club too.


    This meet kicks off the year for me and can't wait.


    Need to give Bernie a shout to confirm. Haven't done so yet.


    I think Bletchley Park is the week-end before.... looks good?

    Another vote for keeping it original!


    Many wheel refurb places buy their silver in bulk. This also means they don't have to clean the spray guns all the time etc. You will probably have a choice of three silvers, with three dummy wheels available to browse at reception. Pick them up and take them outside! Choose the closest silver to the original silver to keep costs down.


    You could always spec your own silver/colour, but it will cost quite a bit more.


    Stress for stick on weights to the inner only.


    Check your tyre sidewalls carefully for damage or 'egg' bulges before dropping them off. Sometimes they compress the sidewalls too much on the tyre machine to break the beads - refit them - and then screw you for some new tyres when it was their carelessness.


    If the wheels are handed - and the wheel refurb company have never done throwing stars, make sure they match the directional throwing stars to the directional tyres - if applicable.


    Whatever they quote you, have a 20% contingency. They quote real low to get the work, then ring you up and say they are 'out of true' and need remidial work at another 25 quid each - you have to take their word for it.


    Identify your wheels as yours (distinguishing marks or a BMW date stamp) to make sure you get your own wheels back and not some exchange stock items from an unknown source that may of been weld reapaired.


    That just about covers my nightmares with wheel refurbers!


    Good luck and rest assured there is no better visual imporvement vs. cash outlay than refurbing wheels. Should look good.

    Well, i'm officially skint. However, the nightmare rust is all sorted for the summer shows ahead. It was a lot worse than I thought. The paintshop said it would of leaked water... if it wasn't a dry use car!

    I had both front and rear screens cut out - fortunately niether broke. I would only want original screens with a BMW roundel, so that saved me 1k in principle! I think a genuine rear screen is 700 quid and 500 for the front! I phoned BMW HQ and asked if replacement screens still had the BMW roundell in the bottom corner.....they thought I was from planet Mars! I was praying about these screens staying in one piece..... and i'm not a religious chap!

    Front :


    Front :


    Rear :


    Rear :


    Rear :











    As I said in my original post, I have a phobia of bodyshops for screwing me over and charging too much with a rubbish job.

    I used Finishline, near Gravely, Stevenage. Top chaps that are BMW trained and have a history working on 8's. They sent me the above photos without asking and always treated me with respect. How they cut out and refitted those screens, in conjuntion with dropping the headlining is beyond me. Thanks to Rob750 for the recomendation. All in all :top:

    I have yet to do the acid test and park it under some sodium street lamps, but its pretty darn good so far.

    Zitat von Timm;73095

    You seem to have the really rare option of the blue cloth in the tool-tray, a most sought-after accessory!


    Thanks Timm! Behold my treasured cloth from 1995! It is in the BMW Parts Catalogue with the other toolbox contents - but says 'Production Discontinued'!


    If people outside of this forum (or inside too) knew how protective I was over that piece of blue cloth I would be condemned to a mental asylum!

    Gutted! Its the only blemish on the car! Its not a rust bucket... honest!


    Thanks for your replies. If I ever catch the monkey who fitted that screen....


    The 8 is the newest car I have ever owned... and I am still chasing rust :motz:!


    TVR Griffith next time, no question! ;)


    I took it out for a winter excercise yesterday as it was sunny (just) and the increase in rust in that area from October was noticeable.


    I will undertake bodyshop enquiries and prepare myself for much breathing in through teeth.


    Regards,

    Hello all,

    Need a bit of advice; moral support even!

    Now that the rose tinted specs and honeymoon period is over, need to sort a few things on the 8.

    I have had numerous bad bodyshop experiences over the years; broken trim, interiors covered in dust, terrible colour matches… you know the score.

    I have a bit of rust at the upper of my window on the roof panel. I have no idea why – it’s the only blemish on the car and not really a stone chip location. Perhaps it had a replacement screen in its life and someone was a bit over zealous with the cheese-wire; who knows?








    Is it worth tackling? Do I need the screen out or can I have a temporary fix? Does the metal need cutting out? Good God I hope not! Can old fashioned Orient Blue be sprayed ok in this day of eco-friendly paint or will it be as sparkly as modern cars are nowadays? Do we have any resident (cambridgeshire-ish) sprayers that are driven by quality of work and recognise passionate owners?

    One thing I do know is that a good paint job = taking your time = money; so cost, within reason, not a concern.

    Comments appreciated, thanks in advance, James.

    Hi ukzero,


    From what you have described, the fan is operating correctly between hot and cold cycles, but coming on (roaring) slightly too early.


    When I say 'roar' I mean an umistakable 'roar' like a lion! Even a free-wheeling fan makes some noise.


    Somehow, the performance and/or characteristics of your bi-metallic spring have changed meaning pin operation slightly too soon. Why this is, i'm not sure.


    Age?


    Anyway, if your stuck in traffic and the fan roars, this is fine.


    However, if at operating temperature, you cruise at 60mph for 10 mins, then the natural airflow through the radiatior negates the need for the fan, the bi-metallic spring will be 'cooled'. It should be just free-wheeling. So, after this 10mins cruising at operating temp, at 60, immediatly pull over, blip the throttle and listen for the roar. If it still roars immediatly after this cruise, the hub is locking too early. Thats when you enter fan over-rev scenarios of regular driving, rather than just stuck in traffic at idle.


    Unfortunatly, my fix above is just for fan hubs that don't lock at all. If you are talking about when the hub locks, its new hub time i'm afraid.


    I know GSF stock the hubs which are not too dear, but my experiences with GSF parts are a bit hit and miss.


    Like the other chaps here say, if you are in any doubt about the hub, its better to replace than have your bonnet and radiator wearing fan blades!