Beiträge von IcemanBHE

    I would say that it is something "electrical" Arnie, because it does happen prior to ignition. Could really be anything, but would assume it was something not getting grounded properly (like mine), or something not "testing" to spec (ie voltage, resistance, watts, etc) during the check the car performs.

    I do however feel that the electrical system is "quite" different from the E31 due to lack of EKM, as its functionality was split off to other modules.

    I would consider reposting your problem there, as quite a few new people have joined.

    Its free right?

    Brian

    Anyone using Kumho Ecsta tires over there? They are quite a good tire and very affordable. Ive been using them for 10 years and currently have all 3 cars outfitted with them. Last set I bought was USD $700 shipped from Tire Rack, mounted/balanced.

    Just curious as I dont see much about them on this board.

    B

    Mr Arnie.
    I suggest you post your fault on bimmerforums.com.
    Overthere we have a wealth of knowledge about the E38s.
    As a E31 board here...lets keep that separate. :)

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=274

    However, just like the E31, the E38s are also very battery voltage dependant. Check battery (ies) and fuses FIRST.

    Second, check MAF. We are seeing alot of gremilins with a faulty MAF, due to the complexity of multiplex, even if you do not see a CEL (check engine light).

    Third, Start the car, let idle, pull down the passenger visor and open the mirror. If the ignition switch is bad, usually the radio will cut out, CEL come on, steering wheel rises, basically something goofy will happen. Watch closely.

    This is a quick and dirty summary and if none of these fix it, bring it over to BFC.

    Best E38 board and the E31 board is pretty good also.

    Peter. Your welcome. I want your cars up to speed, as Im sure you do. Anything I can do. And post some pics of all those monsters. I wanna see. :)

    B

    Peter. This will only work if you use the Alpina cluster complete with the Alpina EKM. As they are locked together, they will only function together.

    As you have both, you should be fine. But....I suspect I am missing something as you stated that you put the Alpina face on the CSi cluster.

    You did this just as a quick fix in order to get this to Gaydon?

    Or is there a problem with the Alpina cluster?

    I hope the former and not the latter. If so...your set to go.

    If its the latter your in for some work, as I am, by tricking the the CSi cluster to accept the Alpina EKM.

    Please confirm.

    As I am the test mule, we can wait and see what kind of sucess I have with this and would pass on the info/mods required.

    Thanks Reinhard. I also beleive this trim setting is something done in GT1 or via some other device. I for the life of me dont see it in the MID setup.

    When I get my EKM back from Lebanon, I will see if it works. My guy there is good with electronics and was going thru the unit testing every resistor, capacitor, etc. We will see what he finds is wrong with it.

    If it doesnt work, I am swapping the EEproms. Will let you know how it goes.

    Peter,
    The EKM is the very bottom module in the bunch of electro gizmos about knee height of left knee when sitting in the left seat. You have to take off the lower dash and foot well liner etc to get to it.

    It has 4 plugs. Black, Green, Blue and Brown. Its major as it runs alot of gizmos and I beleive the central hub for the CAN and diagnostics.

    This is where mine is on a LHD car...I assume they didnt move it on RHD car.

    What are your syptoms? Ive got tons of experience with this now. :)

    There are I think 5 different p/ns for these EKMs, but they all supercede to 62118362362 which is the factory stock one I have.

    Reinhard my man :)


    http://www.8er.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8846

    See my updates on that post. I know it is the EKM module. I have a borrowed cluster/EKM in the car now and have ZERO problems.
    (Other then the mentioned Range and MPG calculations. Do you know how to adjust this in the MID from V12 to V8? Mark in SBA mentioned something about a "trim" setting)

    Now...to the technicals. I am aware of the EEprom coding and storage of data on both the EKM and cluster as you have mentioned above. I have heard of buying a new EEProm and soldering it on. Have not heard if that works as you had mentioned as it might need some sort of base data set to function intially.

    However...as master of the obvious...why cant I take the EEprom off my EKM and solder it on a donor EKM? Ive located one of the same vintage and software versions. With my EEprom installed would it not start up and function perfectly as it would think everything was good?

    Done this way I wouldnt need to source EEprom and buy a reader/coder.

    Thoughts? Ideas?

    and FYI im sure my EEprom is good due to the fact that it would also EEEEE the readout if it was toast or blank. I think . :)

    My EKM is only defective in the pulldown of a EGS signal to ground.

    Its off in Lebanon right now getting "reworked". When I get it back this might be a moot point. But Im just covering all bases.

    Also I sent over a "dead" cluster display module. See if any magic can be done to that. (Its from the cluster I borrowed, I offered to try and fix it as payment for the use of my test cluster/EKM)

    Yes. I know those are the correct part numbers that Ive given...but they certainly do not show in any parts database for the E31. BMW parts at 3 dealerships could not find these parts when I was inquiring about them prior to me having the numbers. Once I had the numbers...I was assured these parts were not on my car. I took them outside (in anticipation) and showed that they were. Needless to say...they were stumped. :)

    Thats why I posted those parts here....so others had them if needed.

    Sorry if I hijacked your thread. :)

    Are either of those connector caps what you were looking for?

    Please continue to see what the 3rd hole in the mounting plate is for. Im VERY curious. :)

    I didnt know it had a 3rd hole until I got my new one....my original was busted off when I bought the car.

    B

    Not sure if these are the same connector cap covers or not, but I had to do reasearch to find these for my car. These are not in any parts database for the E31, however are used on E36 I beleive.
    This bracket and these cap connectors are for the head lamp wiring harness. As I said, this may not be the same cap you were talking about above...however I thought it sutable to jump in here for people seeking these parts.
    This mounting plate holds the headlight connectors to the drivers(LHD) Fender. The passenger side headlight connecors mount to the airbox, but use the same cap covers.

    Do EU Cars have this same setup? Just curious, as BMW says there is NO WAY I have these parts on my car. If you do...what is the 3rd hole for in the mounting plate? I dont have anything to go there, but wondered what option/EU device would.

    P/N for this mounting plate is 61-131-392-225
    and P/Ns for the cap protectors are:
    61 13 1 383 901 - front cap (sml)
    61 13 1 383 903 - rear cap (larger)

    Thks all.
    Brian

    Check....


    of course your hoses and expansion tank. But....I had a leaky cap once. So I fixed that....and blew the little cross headed vent plug. Replace both...small dollars. Good luck.

    pppffft


    So...got this borrowed EKM and cluster in the car. Works....

    but...I knew I loved these cars :) Just took a 568 mile trip, uphill, doing 90 mph, with the AC on and got an amazing 46 MPG according to the MID. lol. Whipped it with the pencil and actually got 20 MPG.

    So...since we didnt "code" the EKM/Cluster to the car...could this be screwing up these calculations? Oh..and of course the Range is like 650+ miles when full. Thats a big tank.

    All else seems to be ok in the MID.
    am I right? or could something else be lurking?

    Problem found


    OK. Thanks to Mark in SBA and of course my Master Tech Maurice El Haj of Bavarian Automotive, we deduced that the EKM is in fact bad, as the EKM should be grounding that signal from the EGS. Thanks to my friend Gary V, we swapped in a different EKM and cluster and all works fine. No errors, and adaptive trans functions work. All better for now.
    What I need to do is either buy an uncoded (new) EKM or try and get a replacement used EKM and "trick" the cluster into thinking its new.
    I have heard about the chip swaps to make this happen.
    Anyone done this with sucess?
    Anyone have a 62.118.362.362 EKM module?
    Thanks in advance.

    More Info


    It IS NOT in Limp mode. I have all gears. Drives fine. The adaptable transmission program (Think Sport mode) does not remember your driving habits (Shift points/revs, etc), but all else works fine. We know its not the shift position swith as you can turn the key to position 2 and change gears and get it to display before the fault appears. Car has no other faults. We can prgram any module or whatever with a GT1. If you read about that X39 (green) plug off the EKM (Pin 10 to EGS Pin 25) it says 0v = OK and 12v= Not OK. When we test that pin we get a pulse of 12V in 7 pulses over about 10 seconds. Then it starts over...so this is definatly a sine wave of some sort. Its not random. Anyone experience this? What should it be?

    We could not originally connect to the car with a GT1. We unpluged modules until it would connect. The root trouble module was the EKM. Then we plugged it in and disconnected the 26pin blue, green and brown plugs. Would connect only then with the green plug disconnected. SO NOW we know it is one of the 5 modules run from the green plug. Those are: Steering Column Memory, Seat Memory, Anti Theft (DWA), Remote locking reciver, and SRS module. We unplugged them one by one until the GT1 would connect. The steering column memory module is bad some how. We think it might have shorted the EKM when it went out.. So with that module unplugged, GT1 works fine with all the remaining modules. But alas...still have the TFS error. (So in effect I had 2 problems but didnt know it)

    At this point we think the ETM electrical manual is a misprint and should be showing a sine wave versus the 0 or 12v ONLY. We susupect the EKM got shorted somehow due to the other module failure. I have 2 EGS modules and both of them act the same...so we really feel that the EKM cannot process the input from the EGS. (if in fact the goofy sine wave form is correct.) We think that maybe the EKM just is bad enough to not process this wafeform and spits out a generic TFS error just because its confused. We also think that as long as the error is posted, the gear readout in the cluster and the adaptive thing wont work right.

    So..basically I am just down to try another EKM module and code it and see what it does.

    Anyone have one?

    I would also be extremely interested if someone could measure the voltage of this wire. I would like to know what they get.

    Thanks all for your help.

    I am in need of a used EKM module. Trying to diagnose a problem with my 95 840Ci. Looking for part no. 62-118-362-362. Please contact me if you have one of these. If you have read my previous post on the Trans-Fail Prog. error, we have disconnected all modules and plugged them back in one by one. Found a fault in the steering wheel memory module, and disconnected that, and now we can connect using the GT1. None of the other modules were faulty. The error recieved from the GT1 is a fault in relation to the common ground between the EKM and the EGS trans module (Code 53. Pin 10/Green to Pin 25 of EGS). We traced the wire and it is good. I just want to try another EKM module to see if we can code it sucessfully to the car and if the error goes away. I have a spare EGS module and it does the error with both of them. Any other idea? Accepting all advice :)

    I don’t drive this car often, so this is based upon my memory, which is good, but not spectacular.

    About a year ago I started to get this error. Sometimes at start up, other times during driving. I drive around town in 4th Gear (Sport Mode). The MID would gong and display Trans Fail-Safe Prog. When this happens, the car has all 5 gears and does not feel boggy, but however…with the ED or S4 not displayed in the cluster, it feels as if the adaptive transmission program is the default (sluggish) mode. Most times it would clear the message after a few minutes, but would return most noticeably during down shifts from 3rd to 2nd or 1st when coming to a stop. Car was hooked to a MODIC and NO fault codes were EVER present. Fluid level checked//filter changed in transmission. No change.

    Since this is rather annoying, I sourced a replacement Trans Module (EGS) and replaced it about 6 months ago. Now the car gongs before startup (Key Position 2 = KP2) with the same error and never goes away. No gear readout in cluster ever.

    Recent connectivity with the GT1 tester fails to even connect to the car. Back to the MODIC. It is currently only loaded with the software for E31 DME and EGS, but connects just fine. No codes.

    Read all the threads about this problem, and seems to be batteries, MAF or Alternator.

    Batteries are fine. I got 12+V at each battery and 12.38V KP2 and 13.83V at idle in the MID using the hidden MID codes thread.

    So it appears the batteries and alternator should be up to spec.

    The error happens in KP2, therefore the IBUS is not even registering a MAF fault because the engine is not running. And if it was, would not the DME trip a code for faulty MAF?
    Anyway, changed the MAF. No Change.

    So, a little deductive sleuthing was performed. My Master BMW tech started disconnecting modules one by one to see which one was causing the error message.
    DME, EGS, EKZ, EWS etc...until the EKM module was unplugged, then the error stopped. Just for fun, (I say this lightly) the GT1 was reconnected and it now sees all the other modules with the EKM disconnected. We deduce a faulty EKM. However, I read that these NEVER fail. Took the unit apart and all resistors seem fine, caps are not bulged and the chips appear to not be burned out, but who knows. Any way to test this little monster?

    I certainly DO NOT want to buy a new EKM ($1300) just for fun to see if in fact this is the culprit. I do have access to an older EKM (91 850i), and would sure try it, but am a little afraid the software is an older version.

    As this seems to be unrelated to anything I’ve seen posted before:

    Does anyone have any experience with the same problem?

    How to test an EKM module?

    Any problem with swapping for an older module?

    Any other ideas?

    As a side note, when playing with the hidden MID functions, can anyone explain the functions 15, 16, 17 and what should the settings be for an E31? If they are off…what problems can that cause? OR are these established by the EKM/MID in some sort of protocol?

    Thank you in advance for any help.