I'm sure you have checked already - but a RealOEM cross-reference brings up nothing but the E31!
Beiträge von Timm
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The problem is that, although they can be bought in quite a few places, you just cannot be sure the blasted things are going to work! As you are in the UK, give Cotswold BMW a go, they have given me great prices on quite a few E31 parts:
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What a transformation - brilliant!
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In the UK, the lowest prices were seen around 2012 - since then they have been going up at an alarming rate (well, alarming to someone who hasn't got one)!
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Nope, all trundling along nicely!
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It doesn't take much current to pull the starter solenoid in, and with failing batteries that's what usually happens. The solenoid pulls the bendix into position OK, but as soon as it does the current demanded by the starter motor drops the battery voltage to a point where all the lights dim and the solenoid disengages with a click. The starter will click away with the instrument cluster lights flashing in time.
That doesn't sound what is happening to you. So, with a good battery voltage I would guess that the starter itself has failed, especially as you are smelling a slight electrical frizzling. But, a good plan would be to check the battery voltage when trying to start. One of those £3 Ebay battery meters that plug in the cigarette lighter socket is perfect for this kind of test.
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Phew - great escape!
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The hassle with the airbag connectors is that they are designed to short the two conductors together when unplugged - to protect the airbag from stray charges which may cause ignition. To complicate matters further it is safer to measure resistance with the airbag disconnected. I think I would disconnect the batteries, disconnect the airbag and then use really sharp probes to check the resistance between the BROWN and BLUE conductors under the steering wheel:
...and that should be a dead-short due to the shorting connector at the airbag. You best check that the end connector does cause a short first to make sure using sharp probes. And yes, the slipring can fail quite easily.
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That's the end of that one!
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You weren't joking when you said you took on a scrap-heap E31! Well done for saving it and it looks like a fascinating project!
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I would guess the same bloke today as it was yesterday at that price!
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No misfire through the other gears? I take it the misfire is occurring at around 75 MPH, or is it just holding 3rd gear higher?
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Did you buy a specific clamp-squisher to fit them?
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That's excellent work! Having better gas flow through the cats makes a huge difference in the absolute power doesn't it!
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Have you done the cluster test?
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If the cluster passes the test then the problem is highly likely to be the A25 module. I've never had to fish out the modules above the kick panel so can't say how difficult it is. But, I have seen pictures of the damaged modules and it is quite evident!
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A good place to start is the Body Electronics Module A25 which lives under the left-hand side of the dash (above the kick panel). There are three modules there and all can be affected by moisture. Of course, the instrument cluster itself can be at fault, but it is A25 that drives the instruments. However, you can test the cluster itself by holding the trip-reset button down while you switch the ignition ON:
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For £75 I wouldn't even attempt it!
The window switches have soldered-in bulbs which can be replaced but there are usually switches on Ebay.
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Well, when you are ready we'll be waiting!
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There's no starter relay on the late models. More likely to be the ignition switch itself or the starter motor. To find out which, remove the cowling around the steering column and locate the WHITE/YELLOW wire from the ignition switch - test if this gets 12V when the ignition key is turned to START.
There is no master key when re-programming the remote. ALL keys must be programmed at the same time and they all get new codes.