Beiträge von 8er.org

    The chassis is weak around the area where the rear upper shock is attached.. It is a common failure, it does require welding to repair or replace the reinforcement plate from BMW. BMW has an upgraded part that is thicker.


    Part numbers are 41 14 8 152 997 (left) and 998 (right). There has been a lot of discussion on this, so check the archives on Roadfly for more information. Some people do remove the old reinforcement plate before attaching the new one so technically I guess it could be said the tower has been replaced.


    Stiffer suspensions systems will definitely increase the likelihood of rear shock tower failure.


    Ed Raether
    MWrench

    Some time ago I offered to write down some instructions for replacing the strut inserts on my 1992 non-EDC 850i, 6-speed. This was precipitated by a badly leaking left oem Boge strut and a pair of torn upper control arm bushings. A series of images would help immensely, but for now..


    Tools needed:


    1. Standard half inch metric combination wrenches, socket set, and torque wrench.


    2. Metric hex Allen sockets to remove the ABS sensor (5 mm), the brake disk retaining nut (5 mm), and to hold the shock absorber piston shaft (6 mm).


    3. 22 mm goose neck box wrench to remove the Nyloc nut on the top of the strut assembly.


    4. Spring compressor


    5. Dremel for cutting off the collar nut (if necessary).


    6. Make sure that Bilstein provides the special wrench with two cogs (like an old bicycle hub tool) for removing and installing the collar nut.


    7. A thread file (SnapOn #TFM7530B) if you need to rehabilitate the threads on the strut tube.


    8. Loctite, Wurth CU 800 anti seize, and assorted chemicals.


    Procedure:


    1. Raise and support the front of the car.


    2. Loosen (only a single turn) the 22 mm nut on the top of the shock absorber piston before removing the strut assembly from the car. This nut is under the plastic cap at the top of the shock tower. It is much easier to hold the shaft (6 mm Allen hex) in place and break loose the 22 mm Nylon nut in situ. You will need a 22 mm gooseneck for the nut. I put a breaker bar on the hex socket and held that in place while I turned the gooseneck. While you are at it loosen the three nearby 13 mm flanged retaining nuts that hold the strut bearing assembly to the shock tower.


    3. Remove the wheels. Under the car remove the bottom 17 mm nut on the sway bar link. Use a 5/8" open end wrench (I didn’t have a 16 mm) on the inner flats to keep the ball from turning. Next, loosen the three large bolts on the bottom of the steering arm that hold it to the strut assembly. You will need to use Loctite Blue on these three when it comes time to reassemble.


    4. Remove the two 19 mm caliper carrier bolts, pull the caliper away from the brake disk and support it up under the wheel well so that there is no stress on the brake line. Then remove the 5 mm hex screw that holds the brake disk in place. If the hex screw is corroded (you forgot to use an anti-seize last brake job), use either an impact hammer or drill it out. Set aside the brake disk.


    5. Detach electrical connections: i) the brake wear sensor on left side has a connector just behind the top of the backing plate, and ii) the ABS/ASC sensors on both sides. Remove the 5 mm Allen hex screw and pull out the ABS/ASC sensor from the lower spindle assembly. Unclip the cable shroud from its bracket on the strut and let the wires hang free.


    6. Remove the three steering arm bolts that you loosened in #3 and separate the arm from the strut assembly. There is a slot between the two parts and it may be necessary to pry them apart using a large screw driver. At this point the steering arm will drop out of the way with three parts still connected to it: i) the lower control arm (aluminum $$$), ii) the upper control or thrust arm, and iii) the tie rod. Check the condition of each to see if any of them, particularly the upper control arm bushing, need to be replaced. Replace any other worn suspension/steering parts (tie rod ends, idler arm, track rod or bushings).


    7. You are now ready to remove the strut. Remove two of the 13 mm flanged nuts that you loosened in #2 above and while holding the spring with one hand remove the third and last nut. Voila, the entire assembly swings out of the wheel well and onto a waiting pad. Go have a beer.


    8. On your bench use the spring compressor to take the pressure off the top bearing. Follow the compressor instructions carefully for spacing and safety. Span as many coils (~4) as you can.


    9. When the pressure is off the bearing, remove the top Nyloc nut you loosened in #1 and remove the stopper, bearing, support, bump stop, rubber boot, upper and lower spring pads and spring.


    10. Inspect the collar nut on the top of the strut. It is likely quite rusty and if it is like mine, nearly impossible to remove... enter the Dremel. I carefully cut away the collar nut with four vertical cuts, and needed an additional half day cleaning the threads with a thread file (1.50 mm pitch) and repainting the few rusted parts of the strut. Be careful if you need to use the Dremel, do not cut into the strut tube. After removing the collar nut, the insert assembly came out with a little encouragement. Careful, there is a special oil that will get all over you when you remove the insert. Fluid had leaked out past the strut seals because both the collar nut and the top 1/8" of the inside of the strut tube had rusted. There is no inner tube, just a piston and series of seals.


    11. Clean everything, particularly the lower strut perch (including the drain hole), the backing plate (check for cracks), and the threads for the new collar nut. The new collar nut supplied by Bilstein is brass/plated and should not rust.


    12. The bearing at the top of the strut piston located way up in the shock tower is designed in such a way that it catches a lot of dirt in a circular moat. There are four small drain holes and over time they clog up. Repeated flushing resulted in the bearing working smoothly again. It cannot be disassembled or lubricated.


    13. I purchased the Bilstein Sport inserts for under $200 each (MSP-05491 front/MSP-05490 rear). No bump stops were provided and none were needed as there is an internal bump stop in the Bilstein front shocks.


    Reassembly:


    1. While at it I removed the upper control arm and pressed in new bushings (provided by Paul from Downunder). This is a lot easier to do with the strut assembly on the bench and out of the way.


    2. Use the Wurth cu800 anti-seize on the strut tube’s threads (and elsewhere) but
    not where you use either a Nyloc nut or Loctite.


    3. Assemble in reverse order.


    4. The total piston throw of the Bilstein replacement insert appears to be shorter than the Boge oem unit, so you may need to compress the spring a bit further to get the parts back together. Work slowly.


    5. When you tighten the tie rod ends to the steering arm the screw may turn when the nylon insert comes into contact with the threads. An old trick is to use a regular nut to tighten the shank down and then simply replace this nut with the new Nyloc nut.


    6. Make sure the flats on the sway bar links are perpendicular to the sway bar itself. That maximizes the surface area subject to torqueing when cornering.


    7. Torque everything to specifications and get a front end realignment.


    8. Drive away with a tight front end.


    Overall impressions are that the front end is clearly tighter, quieter and less “skittish.” Beware, this is only a job for those who are willing to take the plunge into serious repair work, and these instructions may be of little use to someone with an EDC version e31.


    Addendum: On February 1, 2003 “Allan” posted a brief description on RoadFly for replacing the oem Boge inserts with Bilstein shocks for a 1992 850i equipped with EDC titled “EDC Strut Removal”. His conclusion was that Bilstein Sport Shocks fit the EDC tubes and that a pair of 1 3/8" freeze plugs seal off the holes left by the removed EDC control plugs.


    Torque Values:
    1. Brake caliper bolts (2) 19 mm 81/91 ft lb 110/123 Nm
    2. Steering arm to strut (3) 19 mm 48 65
    3. Upper mount (3) 13 mm 16 22
    4. Lug bolts (5) 17 mm 85 110
    5. Strut top bearing nut (1) 22 mm 48 65
    6. Strut collar nut 96 130
    7. Upper control arm ball joint end 63 85
    8. Upper control arm thru bolt 22 mm 96 130

    9. Lower control arm ball joint end 77.5
    10. Wheel bearing nut 36 mm 215 290
    11. Sway bar link 17 mm 44 59
    12. Tie rod end 33-40


    Jon Nelson: 9/24/2002

    - Auto-Dimming Mirror as viewed from the Front


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    - Auto-Dimming Mirror as viewed from the Back


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    - Uninstall old mirror by rotating it clockwise for approximately 30 degrees.

    - Pop out Overhead Cover that houses the Sunroof motor and reading lights


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    - Since the auto-dimming mirror I got did not come with connecting ends, I need to do some wire splicing.

    - Locate an unused wiring harness with yellow male connector. This connector has 3 wires: green/red stripe ([+] supply), brown, & blue

    - Prepare 3 wires to serve as your wiring harness to your auto-dimming mirror, preferably with 3 different colors. I choose a #18gauge wire (I think), green, brown, and blue.

    - Take the existing harness, cut open a little section of each wire's jacket (approx 1/8") with a sharp utility knife to expose the wires bare.

    - Splice each wire, solder, and each wrap with electrical tape


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    - Fed your new wiring harness through above the reading lights, into the liner towards the windshield glass (this will make it clean and out of sight)

    - Secure all wires back in place


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    - Position Auto-Dimming Mirror approximately 30 degrees, align with base holder, and rotate counter-clockwise in place


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    - New Auto-Dimming in place


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    - Turn ignition on and test

    - This auto-dimming mirror came with 2 sensors: 1 in front, and 1 at the back

    - Cover the back sensor with your fingers and observe the mirror darken


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    This document is a step by step explanation of how to remove and replace the headlight adjusters in the Euro headlights.


    Parts needed to repair both headlights:

    4 – 63 12 1 392 067 Adjusting Screws 2 – 63 12 1 392 030 Intermediate Piece
    2 – 63 12 1 393 855 Gasket (for headlights, recommended)
    2 – 63 12 8 124 448 Absorber (recommended)

    Tools needed:


    - Rotary Tool (Dremel)
    - Flat bladed screw driver (little thin one and an average sized one)
    - Wires cutters (to cut zip ties)
    - Socket set (to remove headlights)
    - Marker
    - Needle Nose Pliers
    - Philips Screwdriver
    - Special Tool 63 0 020
    - Most importantly… patience


    1. Remove the headlight cover from the top of the bucket and unscrew the wiring harnesses to the headlights.


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    2. Mark the position of the nuts that secure the headlights with the marker and then remove.


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    3. There may be a nut that is attached at the back of the headlight assembly – remove.


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    4. Remove the headlight assembly by undoing the four bolts that were marked earlier.


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    5. There are three clips on the top and bottom of the headlight assembly that hold the front lens on. Pry these off with a flat screw driver.


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    6. At this point, remove and inspect the gasket that seals the lens to the bucket. They are pretty inexpensive to replace and this is an opportune time to do so.


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    7. Remove the two hinge bolts that the headlight pivots on. NOTE: There are little brass hats inset in the buckets – carefully remove and save them.


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    8. There is a clasp that holds the base of the headlight bucket to the assembly. Pry up the middle of it and slide the clasp off. This is a good time to inspect/replace the headlight absorbers. Cut any zip ties that hold the headlight wires to the assembly.


    If your adjusters are like mine were in that they are basically non-existent, then the headlight assembly should push straight out. If any of the triangular pieces are still in tact, you will need to use special tool 63 0 020 to turn them 1/6 of a turn to unlock it from the housing. Once the inside of the assembly is free to move, push the grommet that holds the wires into the housing and feed the wires though.


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    9. With the guts of your headlight on the bench you can attempt to knock the old adjusters through (this did not work for me, however).


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    10. This is where the rotary tool comes in.


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    11. There are four grooves in the top of the white plastic – cut those down until you can se the black of the housing.


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    When it comes to removing the old adjusters, I found that the plastic was brittle enough that if I kept squeezing the white parts together that they would just break. If this does not happen for you, then you need to try and squeeze all the white pieces together so that the adjuster can be pushed through the housing.


    12. Once all the adjusters are out, make sure the holes are clear of debris etc.


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    13. Prior to trying to installing the new adjusters, lube up the holes with something like WD-40. This will make it easier to seat the adjusters.


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    14. Installing the adjusters is a bit tricky as it is a very tight fit. The easiest way I found to reinstall them was to use special tool 63 0 020 to hold the adjuster and then use something flat against the back of it to push. Try and angle one side in of the adjuster and pry the adjuster over to the other side and try and get it to pop in. This part takes patience and holding your tongue the right way.


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    15. Once you have all the adjusters in, you will need to guide the headlight and adjusters back through their respective holes in the housing. Take your time to line up the triangular pieces with the holes prior to pushing it back together (ie. Check the orientation that the triangular pieces need to be in). It is very useful to have two people for this part. Once you have the adjusters through their holes, you will need to use special tool 63 0 020 to turn the back of the adjuster a 1/6 turn to lock the headlight to the housing. Make sure the adjuster is as far through the hole as possible prior to trying to turn them.


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    Installation is just the reverse of the removal. Don’t forget to:


    - Zip tie the electrical lines to the housing
    - Ensure that the rubber grommet that holds the wires in the headlight bucket is in it’s proper place (don’t want water getting in)
    - Reinstall the brass top hats in the pivot bolts of the headlight housing. Be careful with these are they are very delicate.
    - Install your new headlight absorbers, if purchased
    - Install your new headlight gasket, if purchased

    GOOD LUCK!

    Tom ‘Wuffer’ Carter

    Rob 'canadian8er' Scott

    Open the hood and remove the headlight cover and flip up assembly (activate the headlight switch 6 times and it will remain up with the lights off). Make sure that you have the adjusting wheels on the top and bottom of the housing. If they are missing, obtain replacements from the dealer (PN 63 21 0 153 655). The top adjuster moves the headlight lens vertically and the bottom adjuster moves the lens assembly right to left. A loose lens assembly can be the result of missing adjusting wheels or broken collars. These instructions are for repairing broken collars. The three collars are attached to the lens assembly, two on the sliders and one on the single fixed pivot point.


    Picture 1: Shows an e31 adjuster assembly removed from the lens and housing. Note the broken hard plastic collar to the left in the picture. The adjuster wheel should remain attached to the housing.


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    Picture 2: Shows the replacement copper collar in the same configuration.


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    Picture 3: Attaching the collar to the lens assembly. Do not over-tighten. You want to slightly rotate the collar.


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    Picture 4. Shows attaching the ball/socket assembly of the slider to the replacement collar. Apply a drop of Loctite to the four stainless steel screws.


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    Picture 5: Final assembly with two of the collars replaced. The third collar is on the ‘fixed’ pivot point (lower left in the picture).


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    Repair of the e31 headlight adjuster retaining collars


    Materials:
    1. ½” copper cap (plumbing department at hardware store)
    2. Type L ½” hard copper pipe
    3. 4-40 x ¼” SS Phillips head screws
    4. Solder
    5. LocTite Blue
    6. Propane torch
    7. 4-40 tap
    8. Tubing cutter

    Procedure:

    1. Cut pipe at 9/16” to fit flush in caps. Type L is thicker than standard household Type M pipe,
    provides more thread surface, and is a perfect snug fit for the socket.

    2. Solder the pipe into the caps and sand or grind the surface flush.

    3. Mark and punch cap in 4 places for the screws.


    4. Drill (#43) and tap the caps for the retaining screws and a single centered hole (#20) in the bottom of the cap to secure it to the headlight assembly.

    5. Cut screws to 5/32” put Loctite on them and thread them into place.

    6. Attach cap to headlight assembly using existing screw that held the old black plastic collar in place.

    7. Insert socket into collar and tighten Stainless Steel screws.
    JLN 9/23/2005


    8. The stock headlight adjusters are designed to be adjustable with a Phillips screwdriver from the top of the headlight assembly with the cover removed. The up/down adjuster is on top while the left/right is underneath and is accessible through the assembly via a small hole on the bottom of the housing between the lights. The design of headlight assembly on e31 US models is a poor one. The assembly is comprised mainly of two parts, a three element lens assembly and a bucket. The weight of the lens assembly is mostly forward of the three pivot points and two of these pivot points are secured in place with the now infamous adjusters. The third pivot point is mostly static and generally not adjustable (it is located on the bottom of the bucket and is simply a slotted screw). There is also a plastic pin molded into the side of the lens assembly that rides in a slot in the side of the bucket for stability. The problem arises because of the constant hammering that the front suspension of the car experiences in normal driving. With the headlights in their recumbent down position, this weight distribution further hammers the stock adjusters off the adjusting screws or breaks the collar that captures the socket end of the adjusting slider mechanism. When I installed these collars on my car I took the additional step of attaching a spring between the lens assembly and the housing. This way the adjuster does not have to counteract the dynamic forces of the heavy lens and is only used to aim the lights themselves.


    1. Open hood and remove the headlight covers by removing the single Phillips head screw at the back. Slide the cover forward to disengage the clips.

    2. The top (up/down) adjuster is accessible from the top of the open bucket. Look for a groove ending in a small hole toward the front. The original adjuster is an aluminum piece that looks like a beveled gear and is pressed onto a splined shaft. If you can see the gear "teeth" in the small hole then your original is still in place. If the original is still on it can be left in place (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) or replaced. If you decide to replace it, use a small flat blade screwdriver (in the hole) to push it off the splined shaft.

    3. The left/right adjuster is basically the same and located underneath the headlight assembly. If this needs to be replaced:
    i) Manually raise the headlights by spinning the knurled knob in front of the headlight clockwise

    ii) Remove the two rear pivot nuts and bolts * (See note below)

    iii) Flip the headlight assembly forward to access the underneath spline.


    4. Important! Push on the headlight assembly with one hand to remove all the play. Make sure that the splined shaft has been pushed all the way inward. (there is a large round rubber boss that will seat where the shaft comes through the housing) If the missing or both adjusters have been installed and the assembly is still loose, the new adjuster was not seated all the way.


    5. With the other hand, push the new Delrin adjuster on tight. For the underneath adjusters: remove the two hinge through-bolts as described in item #4 above. The new adjusters are simply pressed on to the splined shaft, and have a screwdriver slot on the back end to adjust the lights. It should take some effort to press them on, do not hammer them into place. The small spherical seat on the lens assembly may break.


    6. When you re-install the rear pivot bolts, make sure the small locking tab near the head of the bolt seats in the slot. Also, reinstall the small bushings; they allow the hinge to move smoothly.


    7. The lights can now be adjusted by using a long handled screwdriver from the back. *Advice on removing the rear pivot bolts: loosen the nut enough so that it is most of the way off the threads and then tap on the nut to loosen and partially drive out the pivot bolts; this will avoid damaging the threads if you tap on them and makes removal of the bolts easier. There are little metal bushing sleeves that slip into the plastic headlight housing assembly; make sure they don't fall out. I also cleaned and lightly oiled the pivot bolts before I put them back in. It isn't bad at all to get to the lower adjusters.

    Another word of advice, keep the nuts, bolts, adjusters, and tools off the front of the car. I've discovered that the front end of the 8 is a black hole for swallowing little bits. Thankfully I had my magnetic retriever!

    This is just my opinion, and nothing else.


    You can find lots of discussion on this subject in the archives on both the e31 and e32 boards.

    I did a bunch of research on this a few years ago and found the bulk formulation used by many BMW dealerships could be purchased in 55gal drums from Valvoline. I then ended up calling a couple of engineers at Valvoline, who graciously admitted that Zerex G 05 was “essentially” the same as the “official” blend. It is a low phosphate coolant that is on the Mercedes Benz list.


    I do not remember how I got to the “Valvoline” conclusion , but I do remember visiting a couple of dealerships, reading the back of “BMW” coolant containers, a month or so of web sleuthing, reading the back of all the coolant variations at the local parts stores, and calling my friend who was the parts manager for the local dealer in the 90’s. I have a tendency to research the daylights out of something, draw a conclusion and move on. I could be wrong.


    I use Zerez G 05 in a 50-50 blend with DISTILLED water.
    The previous owner had what I am pretty sure was Prestone green and I flushed and flushed with distilled water one summer week, then each year just drain and refill with the proper 50-50 mix.


    My reading a few articles ended up with the conclusion that if you changed pretty much any coolant often (before it ended up having a chance to break down, and then start eating away at our expensive engine cooling systems) you would be OK, but there were compelling reasons to go with low phosphate and low silicate blends. (multiple compelling reasons)


    I am not associated with any coolant anything, and I am just sharing MY opinion and experience.

    Nothing else.


    http://www.valvoline.com/zerex/pdf/Zerex_CoolantChart.pdf


    Jack Ramsay

    By: Faisal Ahmed and Gerry and Mitchell Speechley.


    Tools Needed:

    1. Torx Bit T-10.

    2. Torx Bit T-20.

    3. Torx Bit T-25.

    4. Large Paper Clip (Straighten one end).

    5. Small flat Screwdriver.

    6. Small Phillips Screwdriver.

    7. Magnetic pickup wand (Just in case you drop a screw).


    Parts Needed:

    1. Seat Levers

    a. Left Lever part # 52 10 8 152 827

    b. Right Lever part # 52 10 8 152 828


    First Things First:

    1. Move the seat as far forward as possible.


    The Installation Pictures and Procedures:


    1. Here is a view of the broken seat catch on the passenger side seat.


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    2. Now move the headrest a little by pushing it away while rotating. To move the headrest arm rear shell, push the straightened paper clip into this hole in the head rest arm shell to release the clips. Please not that on newer E31s there are 2 of these holes and releases. 1 on each side of the headrest arm.


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    3. This then releases the arm rear shell. Disregard the blue cable in the picture. It is for the Headrest monitor.


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    4. The headrest is held on a nylon friction sleeve. Whilst gently rotating the headrest forwards and back, slide the headrest away about 3 inches.


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    5. Lower the seat fully, which will raise the headrest fully to allow access to the 2 (1 on each side), #10 Torx screws which retain the arm front shell.


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    6. Remove the arm front shell.


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    7. Remove the plastic screw cover to reveal the #20 Torx screw at the bottom of the seat and remove the screw.


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    8. The main seatback shell can be gently lifted and be pulled back enough to allow access to the #25 Torx screw which retains the chrome lever.


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    9. Here the actuating arm can clearly be seen.


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    10. This is where the original levers break.


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    11. Here is a comparison between the new metal reinforced lever and the old type.


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    12. Slide the new lever onto the catch and secure it with the #25 Torx screw.


    13. Lower the main seatback shell into position and refit #10 Torx screw and cover.


    14. Gently pull the headrest back in to the original position, rotating whilst doing so.


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    15. Refit the headrest front shell with the #10 Torx screws.


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    16. Snap the arm shells back together.


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    17. The job is now complete.


    It took me 30 minutes to do this job…including driving to and from the local auto parts store for the set of Torx Bits. Hope this help.

    The rear seat center medical kit plastic latch assembly can not be purchased separately, but must be purchased as a complete leather assembly. If your latch is broken the same as this one, here is a procedure that is simple to do and costs next to nothing.


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    Rear seat center medical kit leather cover showing the green and white medical symbol cross on the latch handle.


    Material/Tools Required
    o Philips screwdriver (for disassembly of the leather cover from the gray flocked piece)

    o Vise Grips (for aligning the metal pin)

    o Two part Epoxy or your favorite strong glue for gluing metal to plastic

    o Exacto knife (for scoring the plastic so the epoxy adheres)

    o One 18-22 AWG Ring Lug (to replace the missing plastic ring on the latch assy)

    o Needle nose pliers (for removing the metal pin)

    o Diagonal cutters (to remove the plastic from the ring lug)

    o Feeler gauge (for separating the leather cover from the gray flocked piece)


    Time required
    o 1 hour


    Procedure


    1. Pull the handle and release the latch and remove the center leather covered medical kit assembly from the car and place in on a clean workbench in order to disassemble it.


    2. Pull the Velcro strap and remove the medical kit.


    3. Remove the outside plastic bezel that surrounds the latch handle on the leather side. This can be removed by placing your finger tips under the lip and “gently” prying it up and outward. There are four plastic securing tabs. DO NOT FORCE this piece or the plastic tabs may break and you may not be able to reuse it. (Reference picture below)


    4. Using a Philips screwdriver, remove the four Philips head screws that secure the gray flocked piece to the leather cover.


    5. Once the screws are removed, you will need to “carefully” pry or slide a feeler gauge between the gray flocked piece and the leather cover. This probably hasn’t been apart since your car was made and has to be separated. You’ll feel and hear it start to come apart. Do this gently!


    6. Once the grey flocked piece has been separated but not yet removed from the leather cover, carefully remove it while watching the relationship between the plastic latch assembly and its latch handle opening to be sure you can clear it without getting anything caught and increasing the risk of further damage. Then set the leather cover aside.


    7. Lay the assembly on your workbench with the latch facing up.


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    You can see the latch assy sits at an angle due to a broken and missing ring tab (right side in this picture)


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    Close up view of the broken latch showing that the plastic ring tab or ear is missing.


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    Since you can’t buy a new plastic handle, your only solutions are to find one from a junk yard, post for one on an internet message board or repair the one you have.


    8. Note the position of the spring, take a picture or make a diagram such that you can reinstall it in the same position, or just use this picture.


    9. Remove the metal pin and spring from the latch assembly by simply pulling the pin out.


    10. This gives you a clear picture of the broken handle


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    11. Take an Exacto knife and make deep cuts into the plastic in the area marked in the above picture with the yellow square. This is to help in a future step when you add epoxy to this area. It’s recommended to make your cuts criss-cross each other. You want to really give the epoxy something to adhere to as it will have to overcome the spring force. (Reference step 18.)


    12. Next, you can buy a Ring Lug at home improvement stores, electronic supply stores and in just about any utility/hardware store and probably most of you already have a supply of these kicking around in your basement or garage. Use a red one that is for 18-22 gauge wire as it has the right inside diameter that matches that of the original plastic ring, about 3/16”.


    13. Remove the red plastic insulation by cutting and twisting it off. This was necessary for me in order to fit the ring lug shank between the plastic walls of the latch handle.


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    14. Place the spring back into its proper position and push the metal pin back in.


    15.Place the ring lug in the position as shown below, such that when inserting the pin back in the handle, the ring lug serves as the missing ring tab or ear.


    16. Using a pair of vise grips, you will need to position the pin parallel to the plastic handle in order to prepare for the proper fitment of the ring lug. The one remaining original plastic ring and the new metal ring lug need to hold the metal pin in a straight parallel-to-the-handle fashion. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a crooked/twisted latch handle like you started out with. You will be fighting the spring force when “gently” clamping down with the vise grips.


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    The new metal ring lug has been temporarily placed in position to check alignment. The proper alignment may take a few minutes of playing around with it and adjusting the vise grips.


    A. When properly aligned, the pin will follow the yellow arrowed line. You don’t want one end of the pin to be higher than the other and you should use the end that is through the plastic, original ring, as your reference point.


    B. Pay attention to the bright blue arrows, you will need to have the new ring aligned out far enough so the pin will go through the two rings on the handle AND the two rings on the large gray flocked piece that the handle attached to.


    NOTE: The vise grips are only to hold the pin parallel to the latch. Use just enough force to do that, and no more. You don’t want to crack the plastic.


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    17. Once you have practiced and have the vise grips in the proper position, remove the ring lug.


    18. Mix a batch of epoxy and apply a liberal amount in the area marked in white, above. This is the area you scored with the Exacto knife in step 11.


    19. Fill the inside of the ring lug barrel with epoxy and place the ring lug back into position.


    20. Cover the ring lug and surrounding area with more epoxy. You are basically trying to make the ring lug an integral part of the assembly.


    21. Let the epoxy cure according to the directions for the epoxy you used.


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    It’s difficult to see the epoxy due to it being black, but you can see where it is in this picture and how it completely surrounds the shank of the ring lug.


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    22. Once fully cured, test the latch by lifting up on the spring arms and looking for any signs of the epoxy giving way or any movement of the ring lug.


    23. If all is ok, reassemble the complete assembly by referring back to the pictures on pages 3 and 4 for fitment back onto the gray flocked piece, attach it to the leather cover and reinstall it the car.




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    Marty Saracino January 2006

    GaiJin on 2005-12-06 at 11:54:23


    I was able to resurrect my car after my wife mistyped the security code into the OBC, and we had no idea what it was. Three strikes and you're out! Here's how I resurrected it.


    1. Unlocked the doors and trunk with the key.


    2. Removed left access panel in the trunk and disconnected battery negative cables from the body mount (13mm nut) and made sure both wires were away from the body so as not to ground unintentionally.


    3. Closed trunk and waited for 1 hour.


    4. Opened trunk manually with key, and reconnected battery grounds. Alarm will sound.


    5. Entered cockpit and inserted key into ignition. Turned key to position number 1. OBC displays "CODE 15:00" and starts counting down towards 00:00. During this waiting period, I set the radio code. Do not exit the vehicle. I understand that the countdown will stop, but I didn't want to take the chance.


    6. When the countdown got to 00:00, the OBC asked for me to input the time, date, and year.


    7. Without turning the key off, I was able to start the car. Yee Haa!


    8. I then reset the windows, sunroof, and then the DK's (coast down procedure)

    For those who have patiently waited....here's what I did to install the OEM BMW Garage Door Opener in the Sunroof Panel:


    Step 1: Begin by ordering the BMW Z3 Universal Remote Control. It comes with the required wiring harness as our cars are not prewired. The 3/5-series versions do not come with the wiring harness as it's already in the headliner.


    The wiring harness (pictured below) has 3 wires. The 2 outer ones (white and black) are power and ground respectively. The middle white wire is the 'night illumination' wire. It is looped/connected to the other white wire (for constant illumination?). Begin by cutting this link as close as possible to the power white (as pictured). Then take the supplied white wire (not shown) and extend this cut white wire to a length equal to the other 2.


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    Step 2:
    Remove the sunroof access panel by carefully pulling the edges inward until the clips free themselves. You may wish to remove the light bar as well for greater access. Locate wires for power and ground. I used the ones for the vanity mirror light as they were readily accessible running across the top of the windshield. The violet wire with the white stripe is the power. Connect this to the white wire (as shown). The brown wire is the ground. Connect this to the black wire from the harness (as shown).


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    Step 3:
    Connect the extended middle white wire (from step 1) to a 'night illumination' power source. I used the grey wire with a black stripe from the sunroof switch (as shown).


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    Step 4:
    Neatly wrap all the wiring with black friction tape to provide the necessary OEM look.


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    Step 5:
    Measure, mark, scribe and cut the hard plastic side of the sunroof access panel being carefull not to penetrate the fabric portion. A cutting disc works best. Finally, the fabric is sliced from one corner of the cut to the other and folded inwards.


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    Step 6:
    Folding the fabric inwards, insert and adjust the universal remote to ensure proper fit and alignment.


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    Step 7:
    The plastic access panel is too thin to adequately secure the locking tabs on the unit. The areas underneath the locking tabs will need to be built up.


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    Step 7 (cont):
    Close-up of JB Weld mounts used to allow for complete locking in of the universal remote into the access panel.


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    Step 8:
    Due to the complete lack of space in the sunroof motor area, I found it absolutely necessary to remove down the top plastic of the unit by carefully grinding it down along the sides. Carefully remove and retain the adhesive foam pad. Note: If this step is omitted, the tranmitter will bulge the access panel severely, result in broken clips and look unsightly.


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    Step 9:
    Replace the foam pad in it's original location.


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    Step 10: Make the connections to the sunroof switch and universal remote. Note: This illustration is prior to removal of top plastic of the transmitter (step 9).


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    Step 11:
    Carefully snap the panel back in as well as the cabin light and check operation off all the switches and program the universal remote. Directions are included with the unit


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    Dr. T 03/15/2005