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Beiträge von 8er.org
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bkb840 on 2006-01-10 at 09:09:54
After examining all, I humbly believe, possible ways to gain more headroom than the stock 35.9" in my '97 840, I settled on the only viable option: eliminating the sunroof. For those who might be making do with the same problem (from my earlier queries here on RF there are quite a few who are over 6'3", and therefore whose driving posture is a slouch), here's what I did:
First, I ordered a non-sunroof headliner, in the appropriate color, from Germany, via Gault ($273.75), with retaining clips, the latter turning out to be unnecessary as the originals can be re-used. Next, I removed the old headliner and everything to do with the sunroof. This is where my DIY efforts ended.
Next, I had an excellent sheet metal guy weld in a cross frame support (a-c, b-d), in the opening, about an inch below the exterior roof line, which essentially replicates the BMW spec on non-sunroof E31s, and incidentally provides significantly more structural rigidity than U.S. sunroof models enjoy.
Next, he covered the opening with a slightly larger piece of "waterproofed" steel and welded it in place, which was most time-consuming. To eliminate any potential for waves and burbles, he welded only 1 inch at a time, on opposite sides, doing all of two parallel sides, before doing the other two, perpendicular sides. Actual welding time was probably only 3-4 hours, but it took 10 days.
After grinding and making the exterior paint-ready, he sealed the inside, insulated both above (75%) and below (25%) the cross-member, and installed the new headliner. The new roof is being painted today.
I've gained almost 2.5 inches. All in, it cost about $2000. In my case, the replacement headliner pretty much perfectly matched the remaining pillar liners, dove gray, so I didn't need to buy those. Can't guess whether this color match would be universal.Not at all sure how many headliners are available, but I'm pretty sure that BMW won't be making any more, so if you want/need the headroom, now might be a good time to go for it.
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from e31faq.com
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After over four years of service, the BMW batteries I installed shortly after bringing my car home from the federalizer finally signaled they were ready to pack it in by failing to turn over the 5.6L beast. Rated at only 600 CCA each, I always thought a little more battery capacity might be a good thing given the monster engine and the E31's appetite for current. Luckily, I have an Interstate Battery store / distributor warehouse located not to far from me. A quick perusal of their application guide indicated their MTP-93 batteries were just the ticket for upgrading the batteries in my car.
The MTP-93 is a Group 49 sized battery, and is rated at 850 CCA, nearly a 42% increase over the batteries being replaced. Plenty of power to fire up the cammed CSi, and plenty of reserve capacity.
The batteries are accessible on each side of the trunk. In this first picture, you see the driver side battery before removal. Note that the battery tray is welded in at the factory, and that at least on my car, there is only one attaching point for the battery mounting bracket - that has a nut welded to the bottom of the tray. Clearly, the factory intended use of the smaller Group 48 sized battery. But as indicated in the picture, the battery tray does have a mounting hole available to accomodate mounting a Group 49 size battery; it just doesn't have a mounting nut welded in.The next image shows the driver side battery tray area with the battery removed. The vent tube is clearly visible.
With the driver's side battery removed, it was then time to remove the passenger side battery. It's a bit more PITA because the CD changer is mounted in front of it. Once the trim panel is carefully lifted up and over the CD changer, the CD changer mounting is clearly visible. The CD changer is secured by a single bolt, and then a slight tug towards the rear of the car slides the CD changed off the mounting bracket. Following is a photo of the CD changer following removal from its mounting bracket:
Next, you must remove the mounting bracket. It secured by four 10mm nuts, two at the top, and two at the bottom. Once the nuts are removed, you can lay the bracket down flat in the trunk. The Euro CSi has the AHK control unit mounted on the back side of the CD mounting bracket, and it is visible in the following photo:
With the bracket removed and out of the way, the remaining battery can then be removed. At this point, all power has been disconnected from the car which will cause all stored fault codes to be erased from memory. The problem now facing me was how to mount the larger batteries using the factory mounting brackets. As noted above, this was a problem because the battery trays do not have a 10mm nut welded to the bottom side to accept the mounting post. How can the post be secured? After stumbling around for awhile, and even considering taking the big Mega-Tron Pluses back for the normal sized ones, the solution came to me and is pictured below. A thin 10mm wrench had to be modified to slide under the bracket to hold the nut in place while the bracket mounting post was secured. The modified wrench:
Actually holding the 10mm nut in place with my "special" tool also required some thought. I finally realized the nut could be held to the wrench by using some masking tape on the bottom of the nut that also wrapped onto the wrench.
With the mounting bracket problem solved, installing the batteries was easy. Due to the design of the larger Group 49 batteries, it was necessary to extend the vent tube from the battery and connect it to the existing vent tube. The batteries were snugged down, the cables reattached, and the installed Group 49 battery appears as follows:
With the new batteries, the car easily fired right up and the car's electrical system had received its excellent Christmas present. The larger batteries are worth considering when yours are ready for replacement.
Submitted by: Steve Castle 12/26/05
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from e31faq.com
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followed by the powder-coated "bridging" plate, loosely secured with the 4 new washers and locknuts.
and the catalytic converter heatshield.
The front section of the exhaust is reconnected at the downpipes with 2 new gaskets and 6 new copper nuts each side.
The front support bracket, held in position with those 2 lower too long bolts mentioned earlier, is now mounted.
The center exhaust mountings are fitted to the bridging plate loosely fitted earlier, and the 2 piece center exhaust support hanger fitted.
The 2 Oxygen sensors can now be reconnected. Here you can see how I colour coded them on dis-assembly to ensure correct refitment.
Here I have used a conventional 54mm exhaust clamp in combination with the stock bracket. I found this to be more supportive and less liable to twisting.
Next, the center/rear "twin" silencer is fitted.........
At this twin clamp section.
Finally, depending on your exhaust system, you have either the right hand rear silencer as part of your center twin box, or, as in my case, 2 seperate rear silencers. On mine, the right silencer is a normal slip on and clamp fitting, but I believe in almost all cases, the left rear silencer is secured with a metal "O" ring seal and clamp like this.
And that completes the installation of the transmission and exhaust system. Time taken was approx 3 hours with maybe 20 mins of that taking pics so not really the scary job it first appears to be.
After sitting on stands for 7 months, the motor fired within 10 secs once I had primed the fuel filters.
Hope this was of interest to some of you.
Regards to the board, Gerry.
1996 M850CSi
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To reach the upper bellhousing bolts, you need 18" fingers or this.
The gearlinkage can now be fitted to the gearbox. The lever arm is fitted here...............
with a new yellow nylon washer and retaining clip.
The linkage body is secured with 2 new pins through the gearbox casting.....................
and rotated to lock onto the casting like this.
Refit the bracket to the underside of the floor which holds the O2 (Lambda) sensor plugs with an M6 nut and refit reverse light switch multiplug.
Then secure wiring to gearbox with the clips.
Now the gearbox rear mounting and suspension unit can be refitted to the powder coated alloy crossmember and the rear of the gearbox lifted up into position and secured with the 4 nuts and washers.
Whilst at the front of the car, I refitted the front anti-roll bar with Powerflex rubber lubricant in the new bushes, securing with 4 new 8mm locknuts and washers.
Here the clearance between the engine, newly re-inforced "X" brace and the anti-roll bar can be seen.
At this point, the clutch slave cylinder can be refitted with the 2, M8 washers and locknuts. As I did not disconnect the pipework, the cylinder did not require bleeding. I will however do so with my remaining racing brake/clutch fluid when I do a clutch fluid flush and change.
The propshaft can now be refitted with the 3 large nuts and bolts, (21mm head) through the rubber drive flange at the front, 2 8mm Allen bolts fitted in the center bearing mount........
and the 6 new studs and nuts in the differential flange. Here you can see how I repaired the split rear joint gaiter by using a normal cv gaiter fitted on the outside after re-packing the cleaned joint with fresh cv grease.
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Author: Gerry, UKCSi on 2005-04-09
Subject: Phoenix Restoration - Transmission Refit....(BIG!)
OK then my friends on the board. This is the post I have not been looking forward to, so here it is. You may notice that there are gaps in the pics between some stages. This is because I was on my own and doing both the install and the pics so I hope you appreciate that it was not really possible for me to pause mid-gearbow lift, (by hand I might add!!!) and take a pic of my sweating brow at the same time. Also I have had to take some pics "out-of-sinc" as it were, for similar reasons. So get yourself a large coffee, beer or whatever and enjoy.
My first job in the re-installation of the transmission was the replacement of the pilot bearing in the crank. Here I am using an internal bearing puller to extract the old bearing.
Followed by the installation of the new by tapping and seating gently with a socket.
Here we can see my completed, 12.5 lbs alloy flywheel ready to fit.
This has now been precision balanced with the mandrells I did a post on recently. Here you can see the small balancing hole required, located between the clutch locating dowel and the grade 10.9 clutch mounting bolt. At this point I washed my hands so no dirty fingerprints would put it back out of balance. :-))
Following the fire which occurred within the confines of the bellhousing after the shippers had a go at it, I had to clean off clutch friction material debris from the inside of the bellhousing and the rear face of the engine with a toothbrush sized wire brush and small, flat, blunt screwdriver, cans and cans of brake and clutch aerosol cleaner and finishing of with my girlfriends toothbrush! Then got brownie points for buying har a new one. I powder coated the clutch release arm and fitted a new pivot pin and arm retaining clip/spring/thingy!
I lightly copper greased the input shaft splines and fitted the new release/thrust bearing.
Here we have the clutch to be fitted.
This was also balanced as can be seen here with the single 6mm and 8mm holes.
I then cleaned off the gearbox externally, removing the powdery residue from alloy oxidation and then prepared it in a satin black, heat dissipating paint, replaced the corroding bolts with new stainless steel Allen bolts, lightly oiled, then drilled and lockwired the oil filler and drain bolts for extra security. I finished it off with a new "oil spec" label.
As I had everything out anyway, I decided to fit a new needle roller quickshift assembly. I have the choice of the chrome Schnitzer or the satin alloy Schnitzer shortshifter knob. Which shall I use?
With the new flywheel lifted into position and located on the single alignment dowel, the 9 new retaining bolts are fitted by hand.....
These are E39, M5 Torx bolts fitted with a gall plate to prevent the bolt heads digging into the alloy flywheel. These bolts are required because of the extra thickness of the new flywheel mounting flange.
The bolts are then torqued-up in a criss-cross pattern to 105 Nm
I then fitted the center-plate together with the clutch aligning tool.
Followed by the pressure plate.
Which is then secured with 6 new grade 10.9 mushroom head Allen bolts torqued to 34 Nm. (If grade 8.8 bolts are used the torque setting is 24 Nm.)
As the clutch and flywheel were balanced together,they need to be installed in the correct position, here the index marks can be seen in alignment.
The gearbox can now be lifted up, aligned with the clutch and slipped onto the back of the engine. Putting the gearbox in gear allows you to "jiggle" the output shaft to aid in the alignment of the splines. The gearbox is secured with 10 male Torx headed bolts, 2 @ M8X50, 4 @ M10X55 and 4 @ M10X65, 2 of which retain the starter motor with nuts and washers and 2 which are too long for the lower bellhousing mounts untill the exhaust bracket is fitted later. I however scrapped all these and replaced them with............yes, stainless steel Allen headed bolts with S/S locknuts on the starter.
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from e31faq.com
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Posted by Steve Cohen on June 03, 2001 at 16:00:06:
Note: Edited by Tom Carter (Wuffer) after two installs using this procedure.
Editor’s comments are in brackets (…) for clarification.
Part numbers added by editor.
It is fairly simple:
Assumption: BMW is not going to have two different wiring harnesses for the same car.
You actually have:
1) the fog light units in the inner tail light units
2) the indicator light is in the dash including the bulb (in one car yes, in other car, no in my case).
All you need to do is:
1) purchase a fog/parking light switch with the rear fog as well as the front fogs on it. (Part# 61 31 8 351 238)
2) remove your (inner trunk mounted) taillight units.
3) notice that the fog light back is completely sealed in plastic
4) Make a template of a hole for a bulb holder from one of the other bulb holder sockets.
5) transfer that to the plastic of the fog light units
6) use a drill press and drill out the round section. (I used a 1” spade bit in a hand drill and a Dremel tool with sanding drum)
7) use a square file to make the two tab openings. (I used a razor knife - very carefully)
'8) purchase 2 bulb holders and bulbs (63 21 1 383 099/07 11 9 978 370)
9) connect the wiring that is already in place. (not in place on either of my cars. Had to make short harnesses one with the male pin at tached and splice in to ground and soldered to the bulb holders)
10) you will need to obtain 2 male pins (one per side) for the empty hole in the wiring harness connector (61 13 1 376 193 7)
11) insert bulbs and holders in fog lamp
12) remove old switch from dash, install new switch.
12) flip on the rear fog light switch13) be happy to note that the fog lights light up and the indicator on the instrument panel also lights. (if not, remove cluster and install bulb 32 13 1 383 311)
14) Great to get rid of tailgaters and also helps in dense fog as they were designed to do.
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from e31faq.com
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Sorry to beat a dead horse but I had promised several of you a couple shots of the headlight adjuster retaining collars. Here are five pictures of the ones I have made up. As I have noted before, there are two weaknesses to the adjuster assembly. The most common problem historically has been the toothed gear that is turned to move the lens assembly (one moves it vertically and the other horizontally). This pot metal gear is simply pressed on to the splined screw and often comes off after repeated road time. This is the part that BMW replaces with a similar gear that has a small setscrew to hold it onto the shaft (for $25 each). At the other end of the adjuster assembly is a hard black plastic collar that holds the white nylon socket to the lens assembly. This collar is held in place with a T20 screw and breaks pretty easily. It is also not available separate from the lens assembly, which runs upward of $300+.
The first shot is an exploded view of these small parts, from the retaining screw on the left to the wheel on the right:
The second shot shows the pieces together along with a broken plastic collar.
This third shot is of the assembly with the new copper collar in place.
This fourth shot shows installation of the collar to the lens assembly.
And this final picture shows me tightening the four small screws onto the ball pivot.
If you have wobbly headlights my suggestion is that you remove the bucket and assess the damage. You will have to do this anyway in order to do the fix, whichever is the source of your problem. Have fun
Jon '92 850i, 6-speed
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from e31faq.com
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– by: Rod Moore
You will want to open the bleed screw with the engine running only, cap off is ok. This will create a slight pressure in the radiator that will push the air/coolant out the bleed screw. Turn heater on and to its highest, hottest settings). Once you have gotten most of the air out (coolant coming out of the bleed screw) you will want to tighten the bleed screw and leave it closed. Rinse off the coolant.
To make up the reservoir level just unscrew the radiator cap with the engine cold and fill with 50/50% coolant/distilled water until the level flag is at the top of the neck. Having the front of the car slightly elevated is good, but not necessary as long as the car is on level pavement.Editor’s note: In my experience, elevating the nose of the car by parking on a steep slope is preferred to get the bleeder above the heater core as much as possible so air will migrate to the highest point.
You will most likely need to refill the coolant reservoir several times until the coolant level stabilizes. This is due to the numerous small bubbles that will be trapped in the coolant and it will take several hours of engine operation for those to migrate into the coolant reservoir.
Yes, if you open the bleed screw after the system is bled the coolant flag will raise as air enters the top of the radiator and the coolant drains back and overfills the coolant reservoir. You will then want to start the engine and open the bleed screw and bleed the air out. The flag will drop down close to the original level and you will loose a small amount of coolant. If the flag remains slightly higher just put the cap on and the air in the system will migrate back into the reservoir.
I would check the coolant level several times for a week; monitor the flag level and refill if necessary. It should stabilize after several days. If the level keeps going down after a week or two you may have a small leak in your system. The coolant can evaporate as it leaks out and it may be difficult to locate because you will not see liquid coolant at the site of the leak. System pressure testing is best done with the coolant drained so you can watch the pressure in the system drop. -
from e31faq.com
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INTRODUCTION
The Electronic Throttle Control System (EML) regulates the operation of the throttle valve(s).
The scope of EML design on BMW engines provides:• Throttle valve positioning for optimum starting
• Precise idle speed regulation without the use of an external idle control valve/circuit
• Progressive throttle opening curves matched to the driving program (with EGS/AGS interface)
• Cruise control operation without additional control modules and linkages
• Automatic synchronization of the throttles (airflow balancing) for two independent banks, throughout the entire engine speed range (M70, S70, M73 engines only)
• Intake air volume control for ASC/DSC (Automatic Slip Control/Directional Stability Control) systems• Maximum road speed limiting
• Emergency “Failsafe” operation in the event of component failures
The EML control module is a link in the total scope of Engine Management Control. The EML
is interfaced with other control modules to complete the management system, which includes:
• ECM(s) - Except E46 (EML integrated in MS42.0 ECM)• EGS/AGS
• ABS/ASC
The main components of the EML system are:
• Accelerator pedal position sensor (PWG)
• Accelerator pedal position sensor (driver’s wish sensor - integrated in throttle housing, E46 MS42.0)
• Throttle valve assembly/assemblies with electronic control motor(s) - DK/MDK
• EML control module (MS42.0 ECM - E46)
EML SYSTEM OVERVIEW
Throttle valve control is managed electronically, using an electric motor(s), without the use of mechanical linkages or cables (except E46 - MDK).
The EML system uses a microprocessor to convert the input signal for the position of the accelerator pedal into output commands for control of the throttle valve. The position of the pedal is merely a request to the control module for throttle opening. The EML module processes this input request along with other pertinent operating parameters. The throttle valve is then moved to its proper position according to specific control unit programming.
The total scope of output control functions for the EML includes:
EML Control System Version Identification By Vehicle
BMW engine management systems have evolved through the model years. The evolution is due to continued technical refinement and emission level compliancy.
Same version systems may be different from vehicle-to- vehicle. This additionally increases the number of system variations as well.SYSTEM OVERVIEW - I-P-O
SYSTEM OVERVIEW - I-P-O
SYSTEM OVERVIEW - I-P-O
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from e31faq.com
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(Sourced from many posts on Roadfly)
This is the bare part with hole drilled by a body shop for spotwelding
This is the part welded in place.
Part#s: 41 14 8 152 997 (Left) 41 14 8 152 998 (Right). Approx $17.50 ea at Gault
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from e31faq.com
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The chassis is weak around the area where the rear upper shock is attached. It is a common failure and does require welding to repair or replace the reinforcement plate from BMW. BMW has an upgraded part that is thicker. There has been a lot of discussion on this so, check the Roadfly archives. Some people do remove the old reinforcement plate before attaching the new one so technically I guess it could be said the tower has been replaced.
BMW Part numbers for the rear shock tower repair parts are as follows:
41 14 8 152 997 (Left)
41 14 8 152 998 (Right)Stiffer suspensions systems will definitely increase the likelihood of this happening.
HTH
ED
MWrench
