Beiträge von 8er.org

    I've been doing a lot of service and restoring / changes to the interior but this week it was time to look at the engine.
    All the tips that I've been reading on this site has been very helpful, I THANK YOU ALL FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE, it's always encouraging to know how others has solved different problems and that there are some other DIY out there.


    I've dismounted the manifolds (It took around 3 hours mainly a question of tooling and patience), here are some info...


    I did't remove the electrical channel on top of the manifolds, I just disconnected some of the cables so I could lift it upp a bit.
    The last nut that is located "behind" the fuellines are a real b... to remove. Nearly gave up. Now I'm wondering how I ever will get it mounted again (how did they mount it at the assembly line??? :-(.
    I discovered a coolantleak on the main coolantpipe under the manifolds (I did't even know I had one) :-(.
    The valvecovers were a bit rusty where the soundisolation have been in contact. I'll have them repainted.
    I'll change upper and lower oilpangaskets since they showed signs of leaking (last year I drove 1300 km and just had to fill 1,5 litres of oil), maybe after the new gaskets are fitted it will take even less oil :-).
    The camshafts were both in excelent condition (at last something positive) :-)).
    I'll also change the enginemounts and the thermostat.


    My manifoldsgaskets have been leaking thats easy to see but I'm not sure that I'll change the manifoldsgaskes themselves. To me they don't look as they have any cracks, the only thing I could see was the "prints" from the grinded surface of the matingsurface of the manifolds in them. My theory is that the leakage is due to that they get so hard (agening) at the thin sealingarea so that the dont seal up any more. I'll will cut out high temp gaskets to be fitted on both sides of the original gaskets, The original gaskets costs around 350$ and how long will they last?


    What else should I have a look at? Any tips or advise are most welcome.


    Sorry for the spelling but but it might be the other way around if you tried to write in Swedish.


    I have digipics but my PC software is not working at the moment, Is anyone interested?


    Best regards


    /Björn

    You can clean your injectors by dumping a bottle of Chevron's Techron into a full tank. Considered one of the better cleaners.


    You can also remove the injectors and have the ultrasonically cleaned and flow-checked at any Bosch or diesel injection service shop. Around $15.00 per injector, and don't forget to replace the top and bottom O-rings while they're accessible. Here's a picture of mine just prior to re-installation:



    Something to consider.


    Mark

    I know there have been several posts on this subject but I can't get the search to work on the archives and don't have time to go through all the posts to seek answers so if anyone saved the links or has suggestions for my problem I could sure use the help. I have a 91 850i Euro and I am getting a strong gas smell that is most noticeable on start up with a cold engine. I still get the smell if the engine is warm but not as bad. The smell seems to eminate from the top of the engine but I can find no sign of leakage. The shop I went to said that perhaps one of the injectors showed a little pinkish stain (i.e. evidence of a leak or crack) but none of the hoses etc. appeared to have a problem. I have only replaced the two short hoses next to the intake (they had a visible leak a couple of months ago)so the shop recommends replacing all the fuel hose as a starting point which I don't have a problem with as it is probably a good idea anyway with the age of the car. Do you have to remove the intakes to get at the lines that run underneath? Is there anything else that we should be looking at?


    In an unrelated problem, I have the rough idle problem and haven't been able track it down. It occurs no matter what the engine temp although it is usually slightly worse when cold. The intake gaskets don't show any sign of leaking (spraying cold start/choke cleaner around the intakes produces no change in idle speed. Plug wires have been recently changed. Inspection II was done within the last 5,000 miles and had no affect on the problem. I have had the problem since buying the car last January. I have the Conforti chips and traded them back out for the originals thinking that since maybe my car was a euro version this had something to do with it. Have tried the coast down sync. Don't know where else to go, except pull all the plugs and see if I can isolate it to one cylinder.


    Your help is as always greatly appreciated.


    Jim M


    All of the rubber fuel lines have been replaced on my 92. Most
    of them about a year ago and finally the ones you refer to just last
    week. The intake manifold did not have to be removed just the
    top engine cover.
    I would certainly replace all of them. I seem to recall there are
    8 or 10.


    Check for the possibility of a cloged injector with respect to
    your rough idle. They should be cleaned durng the 20,000 mile service
    #2 anyway I believe. I know mine were.


    Robin


    :idea: Injector Cleaning - removal or additive ?


    Robin,


    Did they actually remove your injectors to clean them or did they put in an additive to clean them while under operation?


    Thanks for the input.


    Jim M
    91 850i Euro

    The sensor is just a loop of fine wire that's broken when the brake disc abrades the plastic covered wire and opens a circuit. Not very high-tech, so I'll assume you're still within limits. Hell, given the amount of pad left even after breaking the wire, you've got plenty of time to change pads.


    Mark

    Mark, can these malfunction?
    My mechanic said that I was at the rear sensors back in April....
    and now ~15-25k mi. later....
    I'm still w/o a OBC message.
    Is the sensor malfunctioning or am I still within the allowable limit...but after 6 months and 20k. mi ?


    Dr T

    I'm sure you're familiar with it, but here's some pics for some of the other folks interested in doing their own brake jobs. It's that green thing at the top, and you need two - front left and right rear.



    Here's the back:



    You can replace them while the pad is on the car if your careful and have a LONG needle-nose pliers. Make sure the "bump" is facing the disc.


    Mark


    Was the light lit before you changed the pads? If so, then you need to change the sensor that attaches to the pads as well. If you did the job yourself you noticed that little thingy that clipped into the pads, I think it is left front and rear right, no?


    If a shop did it for you, consider a new shop as they should know this.....


    Regards
    Carl

    Here's the sensor itself draped over my bumper:



    To get to it, you can either remove the left headlamp assembly or come at it thru the left front wheel wheel by removing the fender liner and reaching forward and up. Here's how it looks when the light assembly is removed, for navigation purposes:



    As you can see, it samples the airflow running through the left brake cooling duct. It's a press-fit, and due to the rather lousy quality of the plastic adapter, tends to fall out and then start sampling the under-hood air temps! I pushed mine back into it's adapter and then secured it in place using a tie-wrap, good and snug.


    Sorry about the quality - fast snaps using an analog camera.


    Mark

    I recently replaced the OBC on my 91 e31 (bad pixels) and noticed since then the outside temp reading has been 8-12 degrees F warmer than the actual outside temp. Is there a way to reset or calibrate the thermometer?


    Gatordan
    91 850i 47k miles

    <center>HEADLIGHTS ADJUSTER</center>


    The stock headlight adjusters are designed to be adjustable with a regular blade screwdriver from the top of the headlight assembly with the cover removed. The up/down adjuster is on top while the left/right is underneath and is accesible through the assembly via a small hole on the bottom of the housing between the lights.


    1.
    Open hood (Sure helps!).


    2.
    Remove the headlight covers by removing the single phillips head screw at the back. Slide the cover forward to disengage the clips.


    3.
    The top (up/down) adjuster is accessable from the top of the open bucket.
    Look for a groove ending in a small hole toward the lights.
    The original adjuster is an aluminum piece that looks like a beveled gear and is pressed onto a splined shaft.
    If you can see the gear "teeth" in the small hole then your original is still in place.
    If the original is still on it can be left in place (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) or replaced.
    If you decide to replace it, use a small flat blade screwdriver (in the hole) to push it off the splined shaft.


    4.
    The left/right adjuster is basically the same and located underneath the headlight assembly.
    If this needs to be replaced:
    :arrow: Manually raise the headlights by spinning the knurled knob in front of the headlight clockwise
    :arrow: Remove the two rear pivot nuts and bolts * (See note below)
    :arrow: Flip the headlight assembly forward to access the underneath spline


    5.
    The new adjusters have two set-screws at the front end, for attaching to the splined shaft, and a screwdriver slot on the back end to adjust the lights.


    6.
    Slip the new adjuster onto the splined shaft (set screw end first)


    7.
    Important! Push on the headlight assembly with one hand to remove all the play.
    Make sure that the splined shaft has been pushed all the way inward.
    (there is a large round boss which will seat where the shaft comes through the housing)
    If the missing or both adjusters have been installed and the assembly is still loose, the new adjuster was not seated all the way.


    8.
    With the other hand, push the new adjuster on tight, and then tighten the set-screws.
    What worked for me for the underneath adjusters: I used a drill and just moved the bit sideways to notch the plastic ridge opposite of the adjuster hole (around where the adjuster seats) to gain access to both set screws.
    I slid the adjuster on so that one set screw was accesible through the adjuster hole and the other was accesible through the notch.
    The reason I did this is that when I tightened the first set screw through the adjuster hole and then rotated the adjuster to tighten the second set screw, it slipped and I ended up with some play that meant I had to repeat the process.


    9.
    When you re-install the rear pivot bolts, make sure the small locking tab near the head of the bolt seats in the slot.


    10.
    The lights can now be adjusted by using a long handled screwdriver from the back.


    *Advice on removing the rear pivot bolts: loosen the nut enough so that it is most of the way off the threads and then tap on the nut to loosen and partially drive out the pivot bolts; this will avoid damaging the threads if you tap on them and makes removal of the bolts easier.
    There are little metal bushing sleeves that slip into the plastic headlight assembly; make sure they don't fall out.
    I also cleaned and lightly oiled the pivot bolts before I put them back in. It isn't bad at all to get to the lower adjusters.
    Three hands helps though in keeping the pressure on the light assembly, holding the new adjuster in place, and tightening the set screw.


    Another word of advice, keep the nuts, bolts, adjusters, and sockets off the front of the car.
    I've discovered that the front end of the 8 is a black hole for swallowing little bits.
    Thankfully I had my magnetic retriever!


    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;dclary@idbiomedical.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    <center>BMW Should Fix the US-Spec Headlights</center>


    A well-known common problem with US-spec E31's is the headlight adjusters falling off.
    I think this is a serious safety issue that BMW should have addressed.
    I could not believe how bad my headlights were when I first drove the car at night; 2 of the 4 adjusters had fallen off.


    At a recent lunch meeting I checked other's cars and all, repeat all,
    had missing headlight adjusters which made it impossible to aim the headlights.
    They will point way too low, dramatically reducing the headlight's effectiveness at night.


    BMW's remedy has been to replace the headlight bucket at about $400 per side
    and the adjusters on the new buckets have the same fault and will eventually fall off.


    Thanks to Stan and Laszlo, there are replacement adjusters that can remedy the problem but only people on the boards know about it


    I feel that BMW should have come up with a fix for this problem and recalled all US spec E31's to fix the problem.
    Not being able to see properly at night is a safety issue, not just a repair issue.


    If you would like to get the headlight issue resolved, one way is to file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)


    You can file a complaint by calling 1-888-327-4236 (1-888-DASH-2-DOT).
    You will need your VIN number.
    It only takes a few minutes and was surprisingly easy.


    Please take the time to do this.
    There are a lot of people driving around with unsafe headlights who do not know about the bulletin boards or Laszlo's headlight adjusters.


    Link: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov


    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;dclary@idbiomedical.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    <center>Visit the Headlight Adjuster Page to see how to install them</center>

    Maintenance CheckList by Owners

    Most warranties only "fully" cover internally lubricated parts (engine/transmission), etc. If you have one that is a true bumper to bumpter definitely check:

    Intake manifold gasket for leaks
    DK Throttle motors for function/wear
    Exhaust (mufflers rust starting at drain pinhole)
    Engine and transmission mounts
    Driveshaft/drivetrain for any vibrations
    air conditioner compressor (mine went out and that repair alone made the whole insurance policy worthwhile)
    heater function (all vents blowing correctly with NO coolant smell)


    Those are the major areas I can think of that usually start deteriorating @ the 50-65K range.

    Jim S.
    '92 Laguna Green 850i 6spd 154K


    8-Series Maintenance in General

    The 8-Series is solidly engineered and built, yet as with anything mechanical does suffer from a few minor flaws. The two primary faults are the drive-by-wire "DK throttle bodies" and intake manifold gaskets, which both usually require replacement at about 70k miles or more. Early automatic transmissions can be fault-prone, but no more than any other automatic receiving 326 pounds of torque. Otherwise, there are small issues such as the on-board computer display pixels becoming inactive, twisted seats from slipping control mechanism cables, coin tray breakage, and torn window seal gaskets. In the end, these are easily dealt with.


    The engine, suspension, and drive train are very robust. The engine should easily last to 200k miles without rebuild. One caution being the 840's Nickasil engine block that BMW has been replacing under warranty due to sulfur-related cylinder bore wear. The 850's V12 uses a different Alusil block that does not share the same wear problems.


    Owners and potential purchasers will likely encounter "tales" of reliability issues. The 8-Series has at times suffer from a unique reputation among some mechanics as overly complex and often problematic. While true that the car is complex, it is extremely well engineered and built. The issue seems to be that few mechanics have experience with them due to their limited production numbers. It is not uncommon to find mechanics chasing electrical faults by replacing wires and/or control units simply because a battery is low in charge and generating random fault codes. Needless to say, the mechanic blames the car not his own ineptitude.


    Another 8-Series maintenance issue is that past owners often failed to properly maintain the cars due to expense or otherwise. IF maintained accordingly (regular Inspection I and II services) by a competent 8-Series mechanic they are not troublesome. The IF, however is, as represented, a large assumption. While the cars began life as $80-$100k automobiles, the neglect of multiple owners can leave a snakes nest of repairs for the unknowing buyer. As the final recipients of bargain-basement priced 8's will attest, car's with neglected maintenance can quickly become money pits. By whom and how an 8-Series has been maintained is essential to its future reliability. Purchasing one without all service book stamps in place and complete maintenance receipts confirming repairs may seem like a bargain, but resultant repair costs can be staggering.


    As with most BMW models and other cars that last 200-300k miles or more, the 8-Series also has a "mid-life crisis" of sorts that when combined with a previous owner's neglect can drain any wallet. At about 75-80k miles, major wear items can and often do expire as a group . Brake rotors, DK throttle bodies, mufflers, wheel bearings, shock absorbers, control arms, and batteries, hoses, etc. all require replacement at around this time. If performed by your local BMW dealer, this series of replacements will quickly approach or exceed $6,000 for parts and labor. A qualified independent shop can perform the work for almost half the cost. What should be stressed is that when purchasing an example with over 75k miles, look for records of parts replacemetn or factor them into the future ownership costs. A properly maintained car with all of these items replaced by a competent shop is obviously going to have a higher asking price.


    Comparably, variations in models with the exception of the engines used in the 840 versus 850 are few. Variations between model years are for the most part cosmetic in naturere, such as softer leather, chrome handles, etc.. The V12 850 is of course the more expensive car to maintain due to its dual system nature for gas, ignition, etc., and the V8 840 is the least intensive. Later 850 Ci's starting in 1993 did include revisions for the DK throttle failure issues, a more robust automatic transmission (5 speed), and an increase in displacement from 5.0 liters to 5.4 liters. However, if interested in a 6 speed, only the 1991-1993 850i is available (although rare) or the CSi. The only other downside of the 850Ci versions is that to date they cannot be modified with chips as the 850i's can, thus the chipped 850i's 340hp vs. the unchipped 850Ci's stock 326hp.


    Most long-term owners seem to agree that a well maintained 8-Series will cost $2,500-$3.000 per year to maintain using a competent shop charging about $75 per hour. A dealer's parts costs and hourly rates are likely to almost double this figure. Exceptions are those with the time, knowledge, tools and skill to tackle repairs and maintenance themselves. While possible, the engine compartment is very tight making simple parts changes difficult at times. While items like DK throttle bodies are easily dealt with, intake manifold gaskets are 10 hour projects with many many small parts and assembly nuances. It can be done, but the challenge is best left to professionals.


    Parts costs can be as expensive or even more than those for BMW Motorsport cars. For example, the simple rubber weather stripping that ensures proper window seals at the upper edges list for $225 each (part nos. 51 71 1 970 502, left; and 501 right). These tend to tear where the top front edge of the rear windows meet the gasket first. Needless to say, at almost $600 including tax and installation they are solidly in Ferrari-like cost territory. It was after all, an $80k car.

    In the end, diligent maintenance is a requisite for 8-Series owners. If performed regularly by qualified technicians the cars are very reliable yet do require a significant budget for regular upkeep. Operating costs and issues are comparable to Motorsport edition BMWs such as the M5. For a V12/V8 car of similar performance, the e31 is an exceptional bargain with outstanding reliability.

    Greg K
    Grabbed from www.BMWE31.com



    Finally for Recalls, bulletins and Updates for the E31 here is a Quick Checklist
    All very true From Rudy at Rudy.ClubE31.net

    check sunroof alignment
    check hood alignment
    check horn lights - do they flash
    check horns - both working and secure
    check ribbon lights - any fogging
    check to see if any chipping on rear of hood by wiper arms
    check plastic grills by ribbon lights - they come loose frequently
    check temp wheel lights - working?
    check all radio backlights - working?
    Check all switch backlights - working?
    check A/M switch - backlight working?
    check pixels in OBC
    check all fluids
    check service lights - number left green?
    check center stop light - working? - fogged?
    check seat travel - no tilt or binding
    check all windows work - auto down and up working
    check toolkit - all there?
    check first aid kit - all there?
    check glovebox flashlight - there? - working?
    check cruise control
    check front dam - tight?
    touch up paint available?
    check rear window defroster - confirm it's working
    all black screw plugs for fan shroud there?
    is phone manual avail??
    check both window seals - tend to go at front/rear joint
    check for spare fuses
    have DK motors been done?
    check steering - if loose, may require lower control arms/bushings
    check both batteries - if one soft then both will need to be replaced
    check jack point rubbers - there and whole?
    intake manifold gaskets ok?

    Or going to the Extreme, Check these Safety Recalls gathered by Rudy

    TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title

    320296 AUG 96 Recall Campaign 96V-110
    000194 JAN 00 Service Action/Recall Campaign Codes Index General Recalls
    TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
    000194 JAN 00 Service Action/Recall Campaign Codes Index

    Service Bulletins
    TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
    040899 JUN99 New SAC Clamping Fixture
    070296 JUN 99 Updated DIS Software CD 18.0
    001098 MAY 99 Electrical Trouble Shooting Manuals Available on CD-ROM
    040699 MAR 99 Electrical Connector Kit 4 Supplement
    230399 MAR 99 Exchange Manual Transmission - Oil Specification

    040199 MAR 99 Windshield Replacement Tools
    230199 FEB 99 Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips
    160498 JAN 99 Fuel Level Sensor Gives False Resistance Reading
    320199 JAN 99 Ignition Lock Spins Freely
    240198 JAN 99 Transmission Fluid Level Checking Procedure & App. Chart
    240398 DEC 98 Technical Liaison for GM Transmission
    510998 OCT 98 New Glass Adhesive Kit
    170198 OCT 98 Radiator Cap Recall - No. 98V-178
    080398 AUG 98 MODIC III/CD 14 - Questions and Answers
    080198 JUL 98 MODIC III
    070296 JUL 98 Updated DIS Software CD 14.0
    340298 APR 98 ABS/ASC Warning Lights On During Dynamometer Test
    651896 MAR 98 CD Changer Malfunctions - Skips on Rough Road Surface
    040298 MAR 98 Connectors for Electrical Repair Kit IV
    070198 MAR 98 DIS Schematic Information
    1000197 JAN 98 New Service information Construction Group - 100
    080596 JAN 98 Updated MODIC Diagnostic Software - D12.0
    080396 JAN 98 Updated MODIC Software - ZCS Coding
    841397 DEC 97 Replacement Parts - Motorola Mobile Phones
    041597 NOV 97 New BMW Special Tools.
    041697 NOV 97 New BMW Special Tools..
    240497 NOV 97 Transmission does not Upshift when Cold
    080396 OCT 97 Updated MODIC Software C11.0 ZCS Coding
    080496 OCT 97 Updated MODIC Software P11.0 Programming
    001396 AUG 97 Microfiche Update - All Models

    640993 AUG 97 Replacement of Receiver Dryers: R12 / R-134a
    100396 AUG 97 TIS Software Update - 07/97
    100396 JUN 97 Update - TIS Software
    000897 MAY 97 Label for Service Action or Recall Campaign (#201-220)
    010397 APR 97 Modified Vehicles
    0109954318 APR 97 Reimbursement for Diagnostic Work
    070296 FEB 97 Updated DIS Software CD 9.0
    080396 FEB 97 Updated MODIC Software C9.0 ZCS Coding
    080496 FEB 97 Updated MODIC Software P9.0 Programming
    100396 FEB 97 Updated TIS Software - 12/96
    610788 DEC 96 Battery Maintenance
    0101943986 DEC 96 Paint and Paint Repairs - Warranty Coverage
    004089 NOV 96 Microfiche - Service Information Bulletins - Sept 30, 96
    002096 NOV 96 Service Round Table - November 96
    410396 NOV 96 Wind Noise Diagnosis
    010396 OCT 96 Service and Warranty Information Statement - 1997
    010696 OCT 96 Certified Pre-Owned BMW Vehicle Program
    002196 OCT 96 Label for Service Action or Recall Campaign (#181-#200)
    070296 OCT 96 Updated DIS Software CD 8.0
    080496 OCT 96 Updated MODIC Software P8.0 Programming
    010290 SEP 96 Defect Code Microfiche - Revision
    100396 SEP 96 TIS Software Updated
    720696 SEP 96 Transportation of Infants and Children in all BMW's
    651396 AUG 96 Cellular Phone Antenna - Installation
    070396 AUG 96 DIS Maintenance and Operation

    240496 AUG 96 EPROM Replacement/Application
    120996 AUG 96 EPROM Replacement/Application Chart
    042796 AUG 96 New Wheel Weight Tools
    042196 JUL 96 New Torque Indicator Tool
    990296 JUL 96 Paint Materials Approved
    640195 JUL 96 Retrofitting R-12 Air Conditioning with R-134a
    720596 JUL 96 SRS Control Module (ZAE II) Coding
    650796 MAY 96 Emergency Power Siren
    620296 MAY 96 Maximum Permissible Speedometer Error
    120195 MAY 96 Seal on 2 and 3 Pin Plug Connectors
    070296 MAY 96 Updated DIS Software
    650296 APR 96 6-Disc Alpine CD Changer Troubleshooting Guide
    640695 APR 96 A/C System Noise Questionnaire
    060196 APR 96 BMW Added Value Premium - Service Record Reporting
    041896 APR 96 Bonded Windshield Adhesive Cutter
    041196 APR 96 New Environmentally Safe Parts Washer
    720496 APR 96 Safety Belt Buckles - Broken Printed Circuit Board
    720396 APR 96 Safety Belts with Child Restraint Feature
    080396 APR 96 Undefined MODIC Software
    041696 MAR 96 New Clutch Disc Wear Gauge
    310193 MAR 96 Replacement of Shock Absorbers
    100396 MAR 96 TIS Software Update
    070296 FEB 96 DIS Software Update
    000996 FEB 96 Flat Rate Manual Addition
    320196 FEB 96 Power Steering Diagnosis

    510396 FEB 96 Sound Insulation Droops Down
    360296 FEB 96 Wheel Configuration
    0026903100 JAN 96 Update to Microfiche
    040196 JAN 96 Tools - New Special Tools
    1108944139 DEC 95 Engine Oil Viscosity Recommendation
    2405954294 NOV 95 EGS/AGS Control Module EPROM Replacement
    1203933824 NOV 95 Starter Motor Failures - Binding/Sticking Ignition
    6201954172 SEP 95 Odometer/Coding Plug/Instrument Cluster Replacement
    1111903149 AUG 95 Engine Oil Capacities - All Current
    1203851085 AUG 95 Spark Plug Application - Chart
    IDC1017957 JUN 95 Updated TIS Software
    0408954211 MAY 95 New Special Tools - May 95
    0104954209 APR 95 Dealer Communications System Enhancements
    0040891999 APR 95 Service Information - Microfiche/Diskette Bulletins
    IDC1016 APR 95 Software Errors MoDiC, Coding Version 12.0
    IDC002 APR 95 Updated DIS tester Software
    0405954166 MAR 95 Infrared Transmission Device (IR)
    0428944128 MAR 95 New Special Tool - Replacement Cable
    0403954154 FEB 95 BMW Special Tool
    0202954164 FEB 95 BMW Winter Tire Recommendations Brochure
    0203954170 FEB 95 BMW Winter Tire Recommendations Brochure (After Sales)
    IDC1015 FEB 95 MoDiC Software - Update
    0404954155 FEB 95 New Electrical Connector Kit Supplement
    0102903030 FEB 95 Revised Defect Code Microfiche
    IDC1014 FEB 95 Updated MoDiC Software

    0001954147 JAN 95 1995 (ETM) Manual Supplement - 8 Series
    IDC024 JAN 95 MoDiC Diagnostic Software Update
    0024891938 JAN 95 Product Engineering Materials - Ordering
    4101954150 JAN 95 Structural Adhesives
    IDC023 JAN 95 Updated CD for TIS
    6402944082 DEC 94 Availability of R-12 A/C Compressors
    6106944069 DEC 94 Malfunction of Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher System
    1107944089 DEC 94 Radiator Coolant Hoses
    6504944049 OCT 94 CMT 2000VR Telephone Number Memory
    5106944039 SEP 94 BMW Individual Vehicles
    0404943981 SEP 94 Simulator Tool For Bosch Oxygen Sensors
    3202944041 AUG 94 BMW Key Cutting Services
    6103944032 AUG 94 Brake Light Switch
    1303923589 JUL 94 Engine Compartment Return Fuel Hoses
    3301903168 JUL 94 Rear Axle Ratio Update
    3402933855 JUL 94 Steering Wheel Vibration (Brake Induced)
    2302943974 JUN 94 S6S 560G Transmission Repairs
    6411933929 MAY 94 A/C Oil Charge Procedure - R12/R134a
    7202933794 MAY 94 Collision Repair Guidelines: Restraint Systems
    6102943990 MAY 94 Noisy Wipers, Poor Cleaning
    5203933917 DEC 93 Seat Repair Video
    6105933895 NOV 93 Jump Starting of Vehicles
    ATRATB191 OCT 93 Failsafe Modes - Computer Shifted Transmissions
    3403933857 SEP 93 ABS Sensor - Lead Faults and Repair Procedure
    1111903149 SEP 93 Engine Oil Capacities and Oil Dipstick Part Numbers

    6102933812 AUG 93 Emergency Flashers Self-Activate
    1801933846 AUG 93 Rotten Egg Smell From Exhaust
    6417923674 AUG 93 Small Flakes From A/C Vents
    1308881718 JUL 93 Emission System On-Board Diagnostic Code Update
    0409933817 JUN 93 BMW Special Tool For Headlights - Modification
    7204933822 JUN 93 SRS (Air Bag System) - Checking
    7203933820 JUN 93 SRS Deployment Reports
    6101933801 MAY 93 Battery Draw
    3201933752 MAY 93 Steering Wheel Repair
    6405933750 APR 93 Delayed Heater Output
    1203851085 APR 93 Spark Plug Application
    6401903042 MAR 93 A/C System Fill Capacity
    0403933739 MAR 93 Correct Usage of Motorola Telephone Diagnostic Tool Kit
    3405923692 MAR 93 Diagnostic Capability of Slip Control Systems
    5101933766 MAR 93 Loose Vinyl Trim
    0433923693 MAR 93 New ABS/ASC Diagnostic Tool
    1102933749 MAR 93 Updated Oil Pipe Hollow (Banjo) Bolt
    6501933727 MAR 93 Whistle From Cellular Phone Antenna
    3601933732 FEB 93 New Wheel Casting
    9903923718 JAN 93 Paint Damage Due to Acid Rain
    6108891896 JAN 93 Windshield Wiper Chatter - Tool Modified
    6420923691 DEC 92 A/C Microfilter Introductions
    9902923704 DEC 92 Color Program and Overview
    1204923661 NOV 92 Fault Code 09 Sets In Electronic Throttle Control Module
    0432923688 NOV 92 New Tool - Accumulator Wrench

    0426923644 OCT 92 New A/C Leak Detection - R134A and R12
    0429923650 OCT 92 New Tool to Spread the Rear Wheels
    6413923646 OCT 92 Nominal A/C System Pressures R12/R134A
    0020913302R OCT 92 Vermont CFC Legislation
    6513913411 SEP 92 Cellular Mobile Telephone Description
    6518923621 SEP 92 Cellular Telephone Inoperative / Poor Reception On AM
    3701923613 SEP 92 Defective EDC (Dealer Communication Syhstem) Sensors
    ATRATB132 SEP 92 Intermittent Electrical Problems
    5202923558 AUG 92 Seatback Binding or Locked When Folded Forward
    1301923469 AUG 92 Throttle Body - Standardized Components
    0417923587 JUL 92 Special Tools (Body)
    6106923582 JUL 92 Troubleshooting Hints For Electrical & Computer Problems
    6411923569 JUN 92 A/C Compressor Shutdown
    0418923594 JUN 92 Electrical Repair Kit
    3204923581 JUN 92 New Software For Kds Alignment System
    1105923574 JUN 92 New Valve Cover Gasket
    6503923478 JUN 92 Radio Defect Card, Information Only
    0416923568 MAY 92 Cable Adapter For Elo Stecker Control Module
    IDC0089120 MAY 92 Current Diagnsotic and Coding Software Bst/Modic
    0413923561 MAY 92 ELO Diagnostic Cable - New Special Tool
    6301923502 MAY 92 LKM (Lighting Control Module) Internal Defect
    ATRATB110 MAY 92 Orifice Placement - Removable Orifices
    3601923467 MAY 92 Tire Applications
    2409913327 MAY 92 Torque Converter Clutch Engagement
    IDC001928 MAY 92 Undefined Software Message Modic System

    0414923562 MAY 92 Various Special Tools
    6510923508 APR 92 Audio Amplifier/Speakers Replacement Part Numbers
    IDC004919 APR 92 Engine Control Module Identification
    6410923536 APR 92 Hfc-134A Air Conditioning System Troubleshooting
    6205923552 APR 92 Loss of On-Board Computer Data In Electronic Body MOD.
    6401922121 APR 92 New BMW HFC-134A A/C Systems Description
    6502923471 APR 92 Radio Interference (Whine) From Generator
    0412923554 APR 92 Refrigerant and A/C Compressor Pag Oil
    0010923548 APR 92 SAE J-1930 Literature Terminology
    0411923545 APR 92 Special Tools
    6105923551 APR 92 Unusual Faults In Vehicle Electronics and/or Theft Det.
    IDC0029215 APR 92 Updated Modic Software
    1111903149 MAR 92 Engine Oil Capacities
    3202923535 MAR 92 Hydraulic Fluid
    0406923522 MAR 92 Introduction of New Refrigerant Hfc-134A
    6406923518 MAR 92 Microfilter Replacement Intervals
    0407923523 MAR 92 Modic Update Program
    3301903168 MAR 92 Rear Axle Ratios
    1203851085 MAR 92 Spark Plug Application Chart
    3401923490 FEB 92 ABS, ASC, and ASC + T Malfunctions
    1102923491 FEB 92 Engine Oils
    7203891835 FEB 92 Handling of Pyrotechnic Devices: Airbag Modules
    1103923500 FEB 92 Intake and Vacuum System Leak Detector
    6402923495 FEB 92 Non-Approved Air Conditioning Refrigerants
    6102923493 FEB 92 Non-Approved Electrical Accessories

    6411913438 FEB 92 Repair Microfiche For Air Conditioning Systems
    3602923512 FEB 92 Wheel Fastening Bolts
    0103923489 JAN 92 Brake Component Returns Under Warranty
    5102923466 JAN 92 Door Brakes
    1101923484 JAN 92 Engine Hydraulic Lock
    0202923479 JAN 92 Freon (R) R12 Recycling Poster
    0102923488 JAN 92 Fuel Injectors
    0430913454 JAN 92 Loss of Program In Modic
    0403923481 JAN 92 New BMW Special Tool
    0401923461 JAN 92 New BMW Special Tools Release Tool, IG. Switch, A/T
    2301923463 JAN 92 New Transmission Designations
    0402923462 JAN 92 Special Holder, Sealer Installer, A/T
    2405923520 JAN 92 Transmission Cooler Flushing
    0105913300 JAN 92 Warranty Processing By Area Assignment
    6508903184 DEC 91 Alpine/Pioneer CD Player Mounting Brackets
    0604913334 DEC 91 Iowa's New Lemon Law
    0102903030 DEC 91 Revised Defect Code Microfiche Edition 22
    0104903061 DEC 91 Warranty Part Return Status Report
    6410913417 NOV 91 Heating/Air Conditioning Systems Info.
    ATRATB078 NOV 91 How To Use A Pressure Gauge - Automatic Trans.
    6501912118 OCT 91 BMW CMT1000/CMT1000 VR Cellular Mobile Telephone
    6408913373 OCT 91 Musty Odors From Air Conditioning Units
    0037913398 OCT 91 New Software For Diagnose Problems With the Airbag
    0034913372 OCT 91 Updated BMW Service Tester Software 2.0
    2301913316 JUL 91 Shift Characteristics Notchy

    6106913285 JUL 91 Weak or Discharged Battery - Charging Information
    6104913280 JUN 91 Warning Lights Come On and Central Locking Unlocks
    6109913297 JUN 91 Windshield Wiper System Improvements
    0409903090 MAY 91 Front Radial Oil Seal Installer For Torque Converter
    0405913195 MAY 91 Headlight Adjustment Nuts
    0408913247 APR 91 ASC+T Bleed Tool
    6103913244 APR 91 Battery Acid ( Electrolyte) Precautions
    ATRATB028 OCT 90 Engine Testing With A Vacuum Gauge - Auto Trans.
    1110903144 OCT 90 Timing Chain Tensioning Rail Modified
    ATRATB9002006 FEB 90 Automatic Transmission Fluid
    1101902097 FEB 90 New Method of Controlling Crankcase Vapors
    ATRATB8930 OCT 89 Automatic Transmission Math Part 2
    ATRATB8927 SEP 89 20 Steps To successful Auto Transmission Repair
    ATRATB8923 AUG 89 Automatic Transmission Math Formulas
    0414891873 JUN 89 Cooling Of Automobile Components for Test Purposes
    0412891853 APR 89 Seat Belt Pliers
    1203891838 MAR 89 High Pressure Engine Steam Cleaning
    0408891843 MAR 89 Seal Pliers For Speedometer Sender
    0421881707 DEC 88 Special Tools BMW
    0422881715 OCT 88 Distributor Rotor Bolt Remover
    0423881722 OCT 88 Rivet Pliers For Plastic Rivets
    0416881672 JUL 88 Repair Of Simulator Adaptor Cables
    5203881587 JUN 88 Fastening Clips For Upholstery Available
    3602881627 JUN 88 Wheel Balance and Tire Assembly
    0432871553 MAY 88 Seat Pivot Pin Installer/Remover

    0412881624 APR 88 26-Pin Universal Adaptor Cable Leads
    0408881612 MAR 88 Lateral Runout/Brake Rotor Adapter
    3402881585 FEB 88 Brake Discs Checking - New Tools
    0431871550 FEB 88 Transmission Alignment Gauge
    0427871516 FEB 88 Upper Timing Case Cover Special Tools
    ATRATB8754 SEP 87 All Automatics - Front Bushing Wear
    ATRATB8748 AUG 87 Metal Sealing Rings - Automatic Transmissions
    1000298 MAR 00 Service Round Table - March 2000
    070296 MAR 00 Updated DIS Software CD 21
    040800 FEB 00 New Special Tool CD
    002292 JAN 00 Spark Plug/Engine Oil Capacity Reference Chart


    The BMW dealer is a good place to begin your search for records.
    Here are my recommendations:

    Step 1 - Get a Vehicle History Report from BMW
    Depending on where you live, I'd go to the most reputable BMW dealer. Make friends with the service advisor and ask that a Vehicle History Report be run on your car (just give the person the car's VIN). This report will detail all of the repair work that has been done at BMW North America dealerships...and outline the dealerships involved complete with addresses and phone numbers. The report will also have 'defect codes' list to which the advisor can help you decipher. For example, defect code 0064050100 is a manufacturer recall (I think it's either the radiator cap and or the airbag).

    Step 2 - Call the individual BMW dealers for detailed repair service records
    In addition to this report, you'll get hints at which dealers worked on the car. You can then call the service department up and ask for additional "detailed" records in their files/computer database. The vehicle history report is only a summary line-item report. The dealerships have intimate detailed histories. While you're at it, ask if the dealer would be willing to 'stamp' the service booklet for the work they've done. Arrange to send the booklet to them and have it returned to you via pre-paid postage envelope. BTW, some dealerships are willing to send you copies of the actual service repair orders....Murray Motor Imports and Ralph Schomp BMW in Denver offer this to their customers.

    Step 3 - Find out the ownership lineage of your car
    This sounds crazy, but I've done this. Either through the service records from your search in Step 2, or the title search with your state Division of Motor Vehicles, you'll be able to glean who owned your car and their address. Write them a note letting them know you own this great car and ask if they have records and/or recollections of service history. This step is especially helpful in that this will gain you history that was done outside of the BMW dealer network.

    My three-step recommendation is a lot of work. We just went through this on our new acquisition of a 1999 BMW 750iL 39k miles (Birratz Blue). Everyone was cooperative and good-natured about our inquiries. In fact, the Florida BMW dealer near Tampa was impressed that a devoted BMW owner wanted this information since most people don't ask for it! In addition, we made contact with the previous owner and he was surprised the car ended up in Denver.

    Let us know how it turns out for you. Also, if you're having problems with your local BMW dealer in getting the Vehicle History Report, drop me a line and I'll see what I can do for you.

    Best,

    Jud
    Denver, CO
    '91 850i 6sp 16k miles
    '94 850CSi 33k miles (#63 of 225)

    840 vs. 850 maintenance costs

    :idea: Question :

    Is there a big difference in the maintenance costs and frequency of repairs between the 840 and 850, or are they both a fortune to fix?

    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;karlkarlb@yahoo.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    :idea: Answer :

    If you do the repairs yourself and have a non-dealer source for repairs then most repairs are reasonable. If you do not do repairs and have to go to the dealer or independant shops for parts/repairs then yes, it is an expensive car to maintain relative to its current market price. Yes, you can buy a decent one for low 20's now, but you are still buying a car that retailed for about 80 to 100K depending upon model year, and parts are priced accordingly. The dealerships hate to work on the 8's too due to the fact that they engine bay is tight and they don't get enough of them to become REALLY familiar with repairs which means more labor hours on repair. Budget 2-4K per year for repairs depending upon your mileage.


    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;justaguyinokc@altavista.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;
    '92 Laguna Green 850i 6spd

    635 vs 850 maintenance costs

    :idea: Question :

    What are the typical maintenance and repair costs on an 850. Would you expect a '91 850 or 88 635 to cost more in repairs.
    I've heard that 91 850's are difficult to maintain...is this true?

    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;apurvemehra@hotmail.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;


    :idea: Answers :

    I suppose the answer is

    in what condition is the car you are thinking of buying / bought ?
    Allways get an inspection done on any prospective purchase.

    There is no doubt that is more expensice to repair /maint this type of vehicle that a 6 series but it is also dependant on how many miles you will be doing , the conditions in which the care will be driven and how the car is driven.

    I have owned my 850i 92 for just over a yesr and the parts have been failry cheep but I have had no major problems mainly due to the great build quality.

    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;john@johnster.co.uk&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    I can't imagine the 8 maintenance costs could be ever be cheaper than my 635. My 6 has 182K and has only needed an alternator, starter, muffler, cat, and a radiator over the past 7 years. On the 8 I've already taken care of a new clutch, upper & lower oil pan gasket replacement, and intake manifold gaskets which equate to about the total value of the 635 :)

    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;ajw13@cornell.edu&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    Before I had the '91 850i, I had an '83 633csi. I would say that between an 850 and a 635 of similar condition, the 850 would be about twice the cost to maintain. The 850 is closer to an M6 in maintenance costs. One thing to consider is that the engine has twice as many of everything, but that's not the main cost. For example, the cost of replacing intake manifold gaskets is staggering as compared to the 6er. The waterpump, radiator, and thermostat cost twice as much as in the 6er even if you do the work yourself. There are two iginition coils instead of one. Two catylitic converters. Two oxygen sensors. Around 7.5 quarts of oil for the change. Pentosin vs Dexron for the steering. Brake pads cost more. It's not for people on a budget, but it can be done relatively economically if you can do much of the work yourself, and if you can wait the extra time for discount mail order parts. One thing the 8er and 6er do have in common is that trim and accessory parts are often difficult to locate.

    &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;pmorrissey@g-and-o.com&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;quot;

    Wheel


    Proper Tire and Wheel Cleaning

    To properly clean your tires and wheels, you will need a 3-5 gallon bucket, a soft tire and wheel scrub brush, a sponge or wash cloth, a water hose and nozzle, car shampoo, and a spray wheel cleaner. Here are some step-by-step tips to make cleaning easier:

    1. Clean one wheel at a time.

    2. Clean your tires and wheels first before washing the rest of the car. This prevents splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels. Your car is also less prone to getting water spots from drying while you wash your wheels.

    3. Do not clean your wheels if they are still hot from driving. Let them cool, or thoroughly hose them down.

    4. Mix a bucket of soapy water with your favorite car shampoo. Mix double the recommended strength. I recommend Eimann Fabrik Power Wash+ for tires and wheels. It’s much stronger than most automotive shampoos, but it will not strip wax.

    5. Thoroughly rinse the tire and wheel with water using a hose and spray nozzle. If exposed, rinse the brake caliper to flush away loose brake dust. Finally, rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road grunge, road kill, mud and other debris.

    6. If your tires and wheels have a heavy coating of brake dust or road grime, spray them down with your wheel cleaner. Allow the cleaner to soak for 30 seconds (minimum) to 3 minutes (maximum). I recommend P21S, P21S Gel, and Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity for most applications.

    7. Use your tire and wheel scrub brush and your soapy water to agitate the tire and wheel surface. Use plenty of soapy water. The soap acts as a lubricant to gently lift dirt and grit away from your wheels. Follow-up with your sponge or washcloth to wash the remaining dirt from the tire and wheel. If your wheels have large open areas, use the sponge to get behind these areas. Make sure the tires are scrubbed. Many people put layer upon layer of dressings on their tires but never clean them. The result is a brown or yellow discoloration.

    8. Use your wheel brush and soapy water to scrub the accessible areas of the wheel well, too. This small detail keeps your car looking fresh and new.

    9. Thoroughly rinse the tire, wheel and wheel well. Use plenty of water. You need to ensure that all traces of the wheel cleaner are gone.

    After washing your car, remember to dry your tires and wheels using a 100% cotton terrycloth towel.

    Caution: I do not recommend using tire cleaners containing bleach. Bleaches are used in many tire cleaners to brighten white wall tires, but they can turn tires a dull gray and will stain your alloy wheels.

    Proper Tire & Wheel Conditioning

    After you clean your tires and wheels, you need to protect them. Tire dressings accent the appearance of your tires and protect against cracking and fading. Likewise, waxing your wheels protects their finish from brake dust, and makes them easier to keep clean.

    Your wheels should be waxed, at a minimum, each time you wax your car. You can significantly reduce your wheel cleaning and waxing efforts by coating your wheels with a high quality acrylic. I recommend Klasse All-In-One for this purpose, as it is heat resistant and will not yellow. Klasse All-In-One also has the added benefit of being both a cleaner and a protectant. Another excellent wheel protection product is Plexus. Plexus works well on wheels with many small openings, as these wheels are difficult to wax.

    To apply tire dressing:

    1. Use a small foam sponge, foam wax applicator, or Eagle One Tire Swipes to apply tire dressing (foam provides even distribution and wastes far less product than a cloth). To avoid getting tire dressing on your car, apply the dressing to the foam applicator, not directly to the tire. I recommend Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant, 303 Protectant and Lexol Vinylex. These products are all water-based dressings containing strong UV inhibitors.

    2. Allow dressings to penetrate into the tire before wiping off the excess dressing. Five to ten minutes is okay, but 30 minutes is even better.

    3. If your wheel wells have a black plastic liner, wipe the wheel well liner with dressing, too. This simple detailing step makes a big difference.

    4. If you like your tires to be shiny, do a final wipe down with your foam applicator. If you prefer a satin finish, buff the tires down with a terrycloth towel.

    Concours Tires & Wheels

    Concours winning show cars are clean enough to pass a white glove test. This includes the tires and wheels (front and back) and the wheel wells. Removing your wheels to detail them might seem a little fanatical, but it has several benefits, including:

    1. Inspecting your tires for proper wear and damage.

    2. Inspecting your brakes.

    3. Inspecting your suspension.

    To properly concourse detail your tires and wheels, you will need a jack, jack stands, bucket, tire and wheel brush, sponge, water hose and nozzle, car shampoo, spray wheel cleaner, tar remover (mineral spirits), wax, tire dressing, foam wax applicators and plenty of terrycloth towels. If you are not familiar with the procedure for jacking your car and removing the wheels, see your car owner’s guide.

    Here is the step-by-step procedure to clean your tires, wheels and wheel wells:

    1. Remove and clean one wheel at a time. Slightly loosen the lug nuts on one wheel and jack one end of your car off the ground (preferably the end with the wheel you want to remove). Before fully loosening the lug nuts and removing the wheel, place a jack stand under an appropriate point of the chassis or suspension.

    2. Mix a bucket of soapy water with your favorite car shampoo. Mix double the recommended strength.

    3. Clean the backside of the wheel first. Spray the backside of the wheel and tire with a generous coat of wheel cleaner. Allow it to soak for 3-5 minutes.

    4. Using your tire and wheel brush, scrub the backside of the tire and wheel with soapy water. The resulting grunge will be very gritty, so use plenty of soapy water and keep your brush rinsed.

    5. Rinse thoroughly and repeat. If your wheels have small crevices, you may need to use an old toothbrush. A soft parts cleaning brush also works well on the backside of the wheel.

    6. When the wheel’s backside is as clean as you can get it, repeat on the front. Make sure you rinse both sides really well when you’re done.

    7. While the wheel is dripping dry, spray the wheel well, brake caliper and suspension components with cleaner. Allow it to soak for five minutes. Take this time to dry your wheel with a cotton terrycloth towel.

    8. Use the remaining soapy water and your wheel brush to scrub the wheel well, brake caliper and suspension parts. You don’t need to make it perfect unless you really do plan to show your car. Make it clean enough to inspect. Let these parts air dry.

    Once everything is clean, you can turn your attention to protection and beautification:

    1. Spray the underside of your wheel well and any plastic parts with a generous coat of silicon tire and rubber dressing. Allow it to soak in. If you live in an area where it snows, this will prevent the snow from accumulating in your wheel wells. It also makes future cleanings much easier. I recommend Eimann Fabrik Black Opal Gloss Dressing for this purpose. Wipe off the excess dressing with a towel, and buff to a nice luster. Be careful not to get over spray on the body of your car.

    2. Wipe your tire down with a generous coat of tire dressing and allow it to penetrate. While the dressing penetrates, inspect the wheel for tar spots. Quite often, large tar spots will accumulate on the backside of the wheel. Use tar remover and a rag to remove the tar. If your wheel has a lot of spots, wipe down the whole wheel.

    3. Inspect your wheel for surface scratches. If you find any, now is the time to buff them out with a light polishing compound. If you don’t have a polishing compound, use a little dab of toothpaste.

    4. Wax your wheel front and back. An acrylic sealant will last the longest and provide the best protection, but good old paste wax works fine. Buff to a high luster.

    5. Finally, buff down the tire and apply a second coat of tire dressing. When satisfied with the finish, put the wheel back on the car.

    Waxing

    Once you are comfortable with the condition of the paint, it is time to think of a coating of wax. Wax functions as a paint preserver by helping it to retain certain oils which reduce oxidation. It also serves to protect from environmental hazards such as bird droppings, tree sap, smog and the sun's ultraviolet rays. And it gives paint the depth, gloss and richness that can make all those detailing hours worthwhile.

    Wax is available in three forms: liquid, paste and spray. As a general rule, liquid wax goes on easier, but does not last as long as the paste products. Which one you use is your choice. Our only recommendation is that you choose one with a high Carnauba content. Unfortunately, there really isn't any way to determine Carnauba content other than to say that if it is prominent on the label, it's a safe bet. Avoid spray waxes as they are too thin to be of any real use.
    We recommend two medium applications of wax rather than a single heavy one. You can use the round applicators that come with some waxes or are available separately. A damp rectangular kitchen sponge makes a good applicator, as its shape seems to be able to handle the detail areas of a car. An extra application is a good idea on the nose and hood, where the wind will quickly wear off the wax.

    What Goes On, Must Come Off
    When the wax is dry, remove the residue using only a very soft cloth. As soon as the cloth movement feel has resistance, find a fresh surface. Using an orbital buffer will speed the job up nicely. A straight (non orbital) buffer would be even faster, but if you are not careful you risk "burning" the paint. For that reason, we recommend our fellow non-professionals stick with an orbital buffer. Always keep an eye on the surface of the cloth you are using, since any dirt or foreign objects can cause scratches.
    The hard part is removing the wax residue from the various creases and edges. The edges of the doors, trunk, hood and so on are easy; just open them and go over the area with a soft cloth. Fixed items, such as side marker lights, badges, radio antennas, windshield washer nozzles, etc. are more difficult.


    :idea:

    Some detailers use a soft bristled toothbrush. This approach works, although we urge caution as scratches can occur if you are not careful. A toothpick can be effective sometimes. It might even be worthwhile to remove some items (badges, side marker lamps, for example) before applying the wax.


    :idea:

    We recommend that you wax your car once every three months - more if the car is exposed to harsh conditions. When it comes to deciding if it's time for a new coat of wax, the time-honored water beading test can't be topped. While you are doing the wash pre-rinse, notice how the water drops bead up. If the drops are more than one-half inch diameter, or if the water tends to form "sheets", then a new wax job is a good idea.

    Washing

    Washing your car is simple. All you do is add water and it is done. Add a warm sunny afternoon and the task almost becomes pleasant. Keeping your car clean may not be quite as simple as just adding water, but it is something that most drivers are capable of, makes your car look better, and gives you a chance to inspect your car carefully for signs of wear or damage.
    The first rule for washing your car is to never wash it in direct sunlight. The heat from the sun will dry the water and soap on the surface as you are washing the car, leaving chemical spots on it. The sunlight also reflects through the water droplets in the same way the sun reflects through a magnifying glass. This can cause more "spots" to be burned into the surface paint. The warm sun may feel good to those doing the washing, but isn't good for your car. Wash your car on a cloudy day, under the shade of a tree, or inside a building to prevent these blemishes from appearing on your car.

    The second rule of washing your car is use lots of water! You want to float the dirt off your vehicle. If you wipe the paint surfaces when only a little water is on them you will probably be grinding dirt particles right into the paint. This causes scratches and swirl marks to show up on your clean car.

    Wet the complete car down thoroughly from top to bottom before touching the surface. Then mix a mild liquid soap and water solution in a container and apply it liberally to the car with a soft cloth. There are commercial wash solutions available from automotive retailers, but liquid dish soaps work also **EDIT (www.bmwexperience.com) If you have a newer car with a clear coat finish, DO NOT use liquid dish soap**. The dish soap solution may need to be rinsed off the car longer.

    Wash small areas' one at a time. For example, start with the roof. Wipe it completely with the soap solution and then rinse it with clean water. Do not let the area become dry. Then move on to the hood and trunk panels, being sure to rinse them completely. Finally, you are ready to do the sides.

    When rinsing the car, be sure to rinse completely under any moldings, or chrome. If the rinse water appears dirty, keep rinsing. Dust and dirt tend to collect under moldings and in the recesses of the car body. If this dirt is left there, it will hold moisture and it then becomes a place for rust to start forming.

    While you are washing your car, you may notice black lumps stuck on the lower portions. This is road tar used to repair roads. Use a tar remover to soften these spots and wipe them carefully. Often dirt or sand is trapped in the tar, so if you use any force to remove the tar it scratches the paint. Several applications of tar remover may be necessary on big spots to remove them without using force. After using a tar remover, wash the portion of the car again with soapy water to remove any oil film on the car body.

    Now you are ready to dry the car. Some let them "drip dry". This is the easiest but it will leave spots on your car from the minerals in the water. One trick I have used when I am unable to physically dry something (such as wire wheels) is to add a little dishwasher liquid "anti-spot" agent to a pail of rinse water. The water drains off without leaving any spots. I have used this on painted surfaces as well, but there could be a possibility of a reaction between the chemical and some paints. If you want to try this trick, try it on a part of the car usually not seen such as the inside of a hood or the bottom of a door first. If there is any reaction, do not continue!

    Wiping the car body dry is the most common method of preventing water spotting. Most people use a chamois to dry their car. A chamois is made of soft leather from a sheep or deer and works well to dry a car. The leather quickly soaks up the water as it is wiped over the surface and then it can be wrung out to wipe again. A chamois must be cared for if it is to last. After wiping the car, wash the chamois in clean water, and then hang it to dry before storing it.

    Instead of a chamois, soft cloth can be used to wipe the car. Cloth diapers or bath towels work well and don't leave any lint behind. After being wrung out, a cloth does not work as well as a chamois so you will need several on hand. The advantage of using cloth is they can be thrown in the washing machine and drier and be ready for the next car wash.

    There is only one more step to washing our car. Before putting all your equipment away and admiring your work, you should take a pointed object like a small screwdriver or knitting needle and open the drain holes on the bottom of each car door. There are usually a few holes along the bottom of each door to let the water out that leaks down the outside of the windows and inside the doors. These holes can become plugged, especially on older vehicles, trapping water inside the door. This is an invitation for rust!

    After washing it, you may want to wax your shiny clean car. Use only a non-abrasive wax and do only a small area at a time. Abrasive type waxes or cleaners are designed to remove the oxidization from the paint surface and are actually removing paint when they do this. Never wax over freshly painted surfaces! The paint can take up to six months to cure completely. Wax would prevent the paint from curing properly. Many new car paint surfaces do not need waxing to keep their shine. Frequent washings are all that is necessary.

    Showcar Detail

    Detailers that prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer while the carnauba wax adds depth and liquidity. One combination that works very well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One followed by one or more coats of Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Souveran wax.

    For the concourse shine, start with a coat of cream wax. Most cream waxes are designed to go on easily and buff off with little effort. If you have an exceptional glaze, such as Pinnacle Souveran or Zymol Concourse, apply two lite coats of your high quality wax.

    Apply and buff the first coat of wax, as normal, and allow it to cure for 12-48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car’s appearance or protection. Properly applied, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color, and gloss with the second coat of wax. Additional layers are far more subjective to most people, although many concourse winners use many layers to produce the desired depth.

    What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don’t want to polish up? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun after waxing for 10-15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, then take it back inside the garage. Next, using a good spray bottle and distilled water, schpritz a small area and buff with a clean terrycloth towel. The warmth of the car softens the wax, allowing it to polish to a clear, high gloss. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray, such as Meguiar's Final Inspection.

    Keep Your 8 in Shape

    A few hours of preventive maintenance can save you hundreds - or even thousands - of dollars a year. Regular care of both the minor mechanical items and the general appearance of your car will make it run better and last longer. Preventive maintenance not only will make driving more pleasurable, but will reduce the chances of an accident or major break-down.
    Keeping Good Records
    Keeping accurate records of your car's maintenance and repair history isn't difficult if done on a regular basis, and it will make it easier to determine when the various systems of your car need attention. That can mean many extra dollars when you sell or trade in your car.

    All you need is a small book to keep a diary of your car's repair history. You can buy one at most auto parts stores, or you can make your own, following the example. You also need a large envelope or file folder in which to keep repair and maintenance work orders, along with copies of warranties for tires, batteries, and other auto parts.

    Recording repair costs and keeping receipts will pay dividends in many ways. If your car is used for business purposes, the records and receipts can be used for substantiating tax deductions. Besides knowing precisely when regular maintenance should be performed, good records can alert you to watch for special sales on items coming up for replacement, such as tires, oil, or shock absorbers. And properly kept records give you a true picture of what it actually costs to own and operate a car. Such information is essential to proper household budgeting.

    Owner's manuals contain lists of suggested maintenance routines and their recommended frequencies. This is an excellent way to start developing your car's fitness program, although you may need to increase the frequency of some tasks depending on your driving habits and locale. If you live in a particularly hot and dusty climate, for example, you may need to increase the frequency of oil changes. The recommended frequency of most maintenance items is usually given in miles and time, outlined in your owner's manual. It is best to preform the indicated maintenance at the earlier of the two.

    Once you establish a routine, it isn't that difficult to take care of your car properly. If you haven't kept any records and aren't sure when something was last serviced, now is the time to start fresh. Invest the time and money it takes to get your car in tiptop shape and plan to keep it that way by performing maintenance at scheduled intervals. It's never too late to begin good car maintenance habits.

    Getting Started
    Once you've decided to start a regular maintenance program, the first thing to do is a thorough visual inspection of your car. Go over the interior, the exterior, and the engine, making notes of any items needing special attention. Simple tasks can be preformed at this time - such as checking and tightening all nuts, bolts, and screws.

    For the most part, you won't need any special tools to accomplish this. Several "Phillips-head" screwdrivers and a set of open-end wrenches from 3/8 to 3/4 inch sizes usually will do the trick. (If you have a foreign car, you may need metric wrenches ranging from 10 to 17mm.) This will cover most fasteners you'll encounter. Tool kits available at many hardware and auto-parts stores include these basic tools in a handy carrying case. I strongly recommend you buy one.

    It is surprising how many different rattles and creaks disappear after going over your car thoroughly. A little oil or other lubricant applied to moving parts - hood, trunk, and door hinges, for example - can work wonders. Several easy-to-use aerosol products, including "silicone sprays," are widely available. One such useful product, WD-40, has many applications.
    Some of the things worth checking:

    Interior door panels and the dashboard. They often are the sources of rattles that can drive you crazy. The problem may be simply a loose screw.
    Under the hood, check the battery, air cleaner, and hoses. Other things - such as the distributor cap or carburetor - may be loose too, but you must be careful - some screws in the engine are adjusting screws. If you turn the wrong one, you could put something out of adjustment.
    If your car is more than a year old, it is a good idea to have your engine compartment cleaned. After removing dirt and grime, it is much easier to locate and identify oil and other fluid leaks in the various engine systems. Many service stations will clean an engine for less than $10, or you can do it yourself at a car wash with a couple of cans of aerosol engine cleaner and some hot water under pressure.
    (WARNING: A process called "steam cleaning" gets the dirt out of the engine compartment. It does an excellent job of cleaning, but it sometimes can bring problems to the surface. Loose or deteriorating hoses may break or become unattached; poor electrical connections may "short out"; some sealed areas may begin to leak.)

    Looking Good, Inside and Out
    In racing, we always say, "The best-looking cars are the best-running cars."

    I can't overemphasize the importance of keeping your car's interior and exterior looking clean and sharp. Not only will you enjoy driving more, but your efforts will pay enormous dividends when you sell or trade in your car.

    Interior. The seats and carpet require frequent attention. Items such as the dashboard, door panels, and ceiling usually stay cleaner and require less maintenance.

    Seats are easily kept clean by regular vacuuming and applying the proper cleaning product for the material. Fabric can be cleaned with any good upholstery cleaner. If your car is new, "scotch guarding" the fabric can make it more stain-resistant and much easier to clean in the future.

    I don't recommend covers to protect the seats. They detract from the beauty and employment of the car. Moreover, some fabrics are adversely affected by vinyl covers, which trap moisture and don't allow the upholstery to breathe.

    Vinyl probably is the most practical seat material to maintain. It is easy to clean with any number of good spray products available in auto, drug, and grocery stores. After cleaning, an application of vinyl protective spray will keep it soft and looking new.

    For leather, saddle soap works best. It keeps leather pliable and helps inhibit the natural cracks that appear when leather starts to dry out.

    Be careful: Many vinyl and leather protective sprays contain silicone and other ingredients harmful to window tint film. When applying these products, avoid getting them on your film tinted windows. In such cases, it's wiser to spray the solution on a clean rag and then apply it to the upholstery.

    Carpets require regular and frequent vacuuming. Small, battery-operated vacuums simply won't do the job. A good home vacuum with the proper attachment probably will suffice. The more powerful coin-operated machine at the car washes and service stations are better.

    Carpet stains should be removed as soon as possible using any of the many products available. Your favorite rug shampoo will work just fine for general cleaning. If you have floor mats, they should be removed regularly and the underlying carpet vacuumed thoroughly.

    Door panels are made of a variety of materials. Vinyl and fabric can be treated much the same as seat material. Some door panels have plastic sections that may be cleaned with mild detergent and water; your vinyl cleaner generally will do the job if dirt is not embedded in the material. After cleaning the plastic, a treatment with your vinyl protective spray is in order.

    Headliners - the interior ceiling - seldom accumulate dirt and need very little attention. If yours is vinyl, an occasional cleaning and coating with your vinyl protective product is all that is needed.

    Dashboards should be cleaned regularly with your vinyl cleaner or a mixture of mild detergent and water. A liberal coating of vinyl protective spray on a frequent basis helps prevent cracking caused by sunlight. This same treatment usually will keep any chrome or brass trim on the dash looking good. If ashtrays are used, they should they should be cleaned regularly to minimize odors. If the gauges on the dashboard are covered with glass,use a glass cleaner; if plastic, use an all-purpose cleaner.

    Exterior. The most obvious sign of a well-maintained car is a bright and shiny exterior. A sharp exterior is very important when you decide to sell your car because it is the first thing the potential buyer sees. No exterior will last forever, of course, but here are some measures that will substantially lengthen the lifespan of your car's finish.

    Washing your car regularly is a good place to start. But exactly how you wash depends partly on the quality of your local water. If you have "hard" water, rings and film may be left on your car's surface. Because it is difficult to change the water supply, the next best thing is to dry the car before the water can evaporate.

    Don't use detergents or common coarse soaps. Harsh detergents cause your car's paint to lose its residual oils. Use a non detergent soap made especially for waxed surfaces or a liquid soap used for dish washing by hand.

    Use a nozzle with as much pressure as possible to dislodge dirt. Be sure to rinse the car thoroughly. Start washing your car from the top and work down. Abrasive dirt tends to flow down and away from parts you have already washed, resulting in less scratching of the surface. The best washing tool is a sponge, some type of car-wash mitten, or a soft towel. Which ever you use, keep it clean by rinsing frequently or replace it whenever it becomes dirty.

    Try not to wash your car in direct sunlight, when the surface is extremely hot. Remove tree sap or bird droppings immediately, because they have a tendency to eat through the paint.

    The wheels and tires should be washed last. Use a bristle brush designed for this purpose, or a house hold brush that isn't too abrasive. Spray water up inside the wheel wells and under the rocker panels. Salt and debris can get trapped there and cause rust.

    When drying the car, use fluffy terry towels. A chamois will work well, but it also can drag dirt particles along with the water. Start drying at the top and work your way down.

    Waxing is the next step, but you need to be careful about which of the many different products you choose.

    Cleaners are made to remove the dirt from the top surface of the paint. Cleaners have no protective qualities; they clean the surface but don't protect it. Rubbing compounds or polishing compounds are used to remove stubborn stains and dirt as well as minor imperfections, scratches, and badly weathered paint. Polishes usually do not contain abrasives or waxes; they merely shine the paint by adding oils to it. Waxes are used as a protective coating for the paint and polish. The use of liquid, paste, or hard wax is a personal choice, but if protection is all you seek, use whichever is easiest to apply.

    Oxidation - exposure to air - is paint's biggest enemy. You can't stop oxidation completely, but conscientious use of polishes and waxes definitely will slow it down. Follow directions carefully and don't assume that if a little is good, a lot is better. When you apply a second or third layer of wax, you remove the wax you just applied. Remember that all products aren't suitable for all finishes. Read the label before buying. Many products come with their own applicators. A clean piece of Turkish toweling or terry cloth will work well.
    Here are some more tips on waxing your car:

    For best results, work in the shade of your garage.
    Clean or turn the applicator often to avoid contaminating one part of the car with debris from a previously waxed section.
    Always apply the way to the pad, not to the car.
    Apply sparingly. Follow the directions as to the proper motion - circular or back and-forth. If the directions don't specify, use a back-and-forth motion; a circular motion can leave swirl marks.
    Allow the wax to dry thoroughly before buffing. If you buff too soon, your car will end up with a dull finish.
    Use plenty of clean towels to remove the dried wax. Shake out and turn the towels often.
    How often you wax your car depends on climate and driving conditions. The harsher the conditions and climate, the more often you should wax. In most areas, twice-a-year waxing is sufficient.

    How do you know your car needs waxing? Simple: If water beads readily on your car's surface, the way is still doing it's job. If not, you're overdue for another coat.