Beiträge von 8er.org
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Installing Arm Rest in 8 Series BMW
I found a used Arm Rest out of an E36, 3 Series BMW (you can find a used one or order one from your Dealer). It was in good shape with two minor problems; it was black and vinyl. I can live with the vinyl part but needed to ‘dye’ it to match my interior.
Okay here’s how; Crimson (my Calypso Red E31) came with a phone in the center console and of course it is ‘useless’ because no one can activate it. I took the phone off of the plate that ‘pops’ into the frame that is bolted inside of the console, then found a block of wood and cut it about 8.5 inches long, 2.5 inches wide, and 3 inches high (I made it this high so I could still us the E-Brake, and it was a good height to rest my arm on….hey, maybe that’s why they call it an “Arm Rest”); found some material and glued/stapled it to the block of wood (you could just spray the wood if you want).
I then went to my local auto paint shop and had them find me a ‘dye’ that matched the “lighter” color of my interior (they had to come out and put a little ‘camera’ on the color and take a picture of it). I then took the ‘covered’ block of wood and, using long wood screws, screwed it to the bottom of the Arm Rest (being very careful not to go through the plastic bottom into the vinyl). Then I dyed all of it, doing this in very little coats of five each (just spray a little light coat, then let it dry for about an hour, then wipe with lint free rag, then do it again until you get the
color your looking for). Now the really good part (for me anyway) is how I can take the Arm Rest off if I need to. I took the plate, that ‘snaps’ into the frame that is bolted inside the console, and screwed it to the bottom of the covered block of wood. I did this for two reasons; one, so the Arm Rest will be very secured, and two so I could take it out if I needed to. Well, that’s it, if you have any questions just let me know.Patrick Ford and Crimson
This is what the console looks like after the Phone has been removed. There is a medal frame that fits inside and a plastic piece that the Phone is attached to. I left the medal frame bolted inside and kept the plastic piece to screw the Arm Rest too.
This is the Arm Rest after I screwed it to the wooden block and plastic part. Note: the four medal pins, they will snap into the medal frame located inside the console.
Here is the dye I used for the Arm Rest. This is also a good picture of the plastic part.
This is a picture of the passengers side looking at the Arm Rest.
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from e31faq.com
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There are times in life, we have all been there, when you suddenly understand how lucky you are to be alive.
To pick up on this unbelievably true fable that has been going on mysteriously for a week or more concerning my steering wheel tilting suddenly to the left with no explanation even after checking all the steering etc. etc. I have many nice and informative e-mails from fellow owners and mechanics but it has still remained a mystery, until today.
I decided about 5:30 pm to head on down to the local market for some nice chicken breast, accompanying fruit & veggies and some nice dark Zinfindel to help it all slide down properly. As always in the last week it was impossible not to re-notice the lopsided steering wheel as I puttered along, as fast as the car is it is almost as much fun to drive slowly as fast. Each time I turned the wheel it was a constant re-examination as any of you would be doing, musing to myself about the unknown factor somehow involved.
I decided suddenly to go to a local German repair shop that is close to the market and of course pick up my food on the way back. I drove in just as they were closing and they exhibited the normal and expected show of appreciation and envy for the monster that purred into their cave of repair. The kind manager listened to my tail of woe and offered no explanations other than to say that he would need to check it out on the rack at a charge of $65, which would be used toward the cost of repair if I requested that he perform the needed mending.
I thought this fair and so I took his card and said I would call tomorrow and left quietly and slowly so as not to scrape the lovely and low-hung air-dam in the front. Then I decided suddenly to head for the other BMW repair shop that was nearby and see what that individual had to say. I haven't had the car long enough (2 months or more) to establish a relationship with anyone yet. So I puttered along on my way, the gas hungry monster that can swallow almost all other cars whole simply styling along in peace corps fashion while all cars whizzed by with all the drivers stretching their necks and smiling and waving at times.
Then I came to the shop and saw them closing their doors and I knew that I was a bit too late and would have to do all of this investigation properly tomorrow. So I purposely made some lazy turns and then fast turns in the large parking lot that was now empty and I started to notice for the first time that I was feeling a spot of resistance in the steering at a certain point on hard left turns. I practiced this repeatedly for a time and then sat checking all the other things such as play to and fro and comparing the difference with the engine running (power steering) vs. the engine off etc.
Then, on such a lovely, peaceful California day I sort of decided to head home. However when I hit the street I had this funny feeling that Hmmmmm, "What if something is really wrong?....what if there is a suddenly broken steering joint or U-joint in some mysterious spot etc. etc. I quickly rewound the mental tapes to some 40 years ago when I had been driving a 48 ford hot-rod that the steering had gone out on and I had almost killed myself watching the car steer itself down to a dead stop against a tree and a fence. I survived that incident Ok, but the memory of speeding along with no control of the car was suddenly very fresh in my mind.
So I drove slowly to the right side of the road, telling myself that I was doing it for the car (wouldn't it be horrible to scratch this gorgeous toy) rather than fearing for my own invaluable and aged carcass. So, I tooled along like an electric car for the elderly with the wind blowing ever so gently through the fully open windows and the lovely sun pouring through the open sun-roof. Then my very own neighbor who had a new BMW 323 black convertible drove by with her dark hair blowing in the breeze as she sped by with a huge cheerleader grin and long attractive outstretched arm dangling with jewelry and hollered "Hey Slowpoke" get a good car!!! continuing our unlimited banter over the better car each time we wash or put them to bed under their covers at night. (who needs children).
Then I finished my drive home and slowly crept up the driveway into central position, always the best spot for Calypso as I so tenderly refer to V12 Coup. Then my Dad who just turned 81 came out and witnessed the merciless teasing I was receiving from my neighbor for going so slow and he said after "Kurt, what's the problem?" as he has a way of knowing that I have a problem sometimes even before I do.
I considered the situation and I told him that I was noticing the lopsided wheel and then just earlier a resistance in the turn going left. The old Stanley Steamer, Studebaker, Model T, Buick, Chrysler, 32 ford, 34 ford and 36 & 37 Ford man, father & backyard mechanic who taught me everything I know said "Why don't you show me what your talking about". So, I did.
Then Dad rolled up his retired school administrator sleeves and exposed his world war II Navy Tattoos that have become somehow a most respectful and tender reminder of the years gone by as well as those here now and he told me to open the hood and watch as he continuously turned the wheel to the resistance spot and back again and again. So we did that, father and son as we have done for some 50 some years before through car after car and again just as always Stan (dad) said slowly, "well, I think I have found your problem." I stood up and looked at him and he smiled that famous lazy old smile that has charmed people for years He then slowly spun the wheel around and around without any resistance or any tires moving at all right before my eyes!
I had no choice but to smile back, and chuckle as my mind tried in vain to catch up somehow to the stark and dangerous reality of this situation as it slowly at first and then like a block of cement hit my perceptive reception area and left a dent that almost knocked me off my feet. I was immediately in a fraction of a second remembering the recent cars whizzing by in the opposite direction minutes ago and the last time (only a couple of weeks ago) that the wheel had been removed and worked on by the local dealer here in Sacramento.
A chill just sort of worked it's way up my spine all the way into the base of my skull and seemed to be taunting me in a kind of childlike rhyme like we all used to spit out at each other when we had just caused each other to crash our bikes or fall backward over a buddy bent over behind us.
I was immediately mad, frustrated, amazed, angry and then amazingly and incredibly thankful that I was standing here alive and that my lovely toy was not bent around a tree or trying to become part of the inner working of a local Japanese car coming from the other direction just earlier today. In other words, My steering wheel had come disconnected somehow just under the dash where it somehow connects to the steering shaft.
I slowly locked up the car and took the food into the house. I poured Dad and mom and myself a small glass of wine and then I immediately came into the computer room here (used to be Dads office) and sat down without a moments hesitation and wrote this little ditty to all you fellow E31, 850 owners who should know that if your steering wheel ever takes a sudden leap toward one direction or the other, regardless of how well it seems to work, it is obviously a very dangerous situation and could end up killing you if you don't check it out.
I am going to go out now and eat dinner with mom and dad, my two best friends in this world and be very thankful that I am alive and able to spend this time in their company as well as write this news to all of you here.
I suppose that after dinner I will want to determine exactly what the steering shaft is composed of under the dash and how exactly the dealer could have allowed his last repair for noise when the wheel turns to end up with my wheel turning freely in my hand with no control of the car. Man, life certainly is an interesting process.
Kurt.
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Well, I am more than a little embarrassed. Sometimes it is easy to go "off the handle" as they used to say, or "going on and on" etc. When I finally decided that it wouldn't hurt anything if I just took out the lower trim panels and lower dash panels to take a look under. So I did exactly that, without touching the steering wheel or the battery.
It took all of about 15 minutes. Easy to figure out, undo the plastic screws, remove the false cap on the hood release unscrew it, off it comes, off comes the hard plastic kick panel trim. Then remove the upper/under the dash black cover (4 plastic screws)(one mysterious electrical switch no one told me about fastened to black under/cover, I will have to find out what it goes to later) off it comes.
Remove the upholstery-colored trim piece in a U shape going around from door to console just under the dash instrument and steering column area by removing two phillips head screws and pulling straight out to bring other screws out of press plugs in the metal backing of the inner/under dash.
Then looking under I found a piece of hard black plastic heater pipe that had a phillips screw, I unscrewed it, then jockey the long hard piece back and forth till it pops loose and then "Presto", lying on my back I can see the whole steering assembly all the way from just behind the back of the steering wheel down to where it disappears into the engine compartment.
What I found surprised me. It seems that Justin was right after-all when he said he had to replace a coupling in his steering shaft assembly.
If you remember I had been told by several BMW mechanics (professional) that there was virtually nothing that could break under there, "If it was the same as most other BMWs". Well, either they were wrong, or the 850 is different from most other BMWs, because there is.
It shows in the steering wheel/column diagram of parts etc. A rubber coupling #17 that is a U-joint of sorts that connects on one end to the "lower (underdash)shaft assembly" #15, and on the other end to the Flange #16,(which is a small metal piece with splines fitting over the steering wheel shaft as it comes down from the area behind the steering wheel and is held firm not to be moving by a bolt that tightens it. This rubber coupling can definitely break, tear, rip, wear out and come apart leaving you no steering.
Anyway, this coupling 17# is mounted to the flange #16 on one end and to the lower shaft #15 that heads down toward the eng compartment on the other side of the coupling.
So the coupling #17 is a very thin 1/4 thick round piece of rubber with fiber insides that has 4 holes in it. Two bolts from the flange #16 go into two of the holes with nuts to hold them tight from one direction (just under steering wheel) and the other two holes are for two bolts that come from the lower shaft assembly #15 that heads down for the eng compartment.
So this round piece of rubber with 4 holes in it, with 4 bolts pushed through and held by 4 nuts is obviously a direct U-joint type of link in the steering wheel/column (under dash) steering shaft assembly.
If this rubber gets old and tired and decides that it doesn't want to hold together any more....for whatever reason....then it simply rips and tears and comes apart....as it has done on my car.
It is not the Dealers fault, unless the service technician purposely cut it or ripped it or ignored normal wear and tear, or didn't notice it. But, I hate to think that any of those possibilities are feasible, I would hate to go through my daily life thinking that. So I will choose to think that it just happened one day as it just finally after 9 years decided to wear out and come apart!
The main message here is that every one of you with an 850 has the same weak rubber link in your steering (underdash) shaft assembly. Unless it was changed somehow after 1991. Should be easy enough to check out with the parts books.
Anyway, it looks simple to replace. Remove 4 nuts from 4 bolts and slowly remove the old torn shredded rubber piece and put in a new strong piece and place it carefully over the bolts of the lower shaft #15 on one end and then over/into the bolts of the flange #16 and replace the nuts to the proper torque and you are done and you have good steering for another 5 to 10 yrs.
However, it is such an easy thing to check, it would seem a good idea to check it out when you have the lower dash trim pieces off for any other repairs or work such as speakers, heater stuff, electrical etc. etc. With those lower pieces off all you have to do is lay on your back, take a light that shines up and reach up and check it with your hand or watch it as someone turns the wheel (turn it yourself-eng running power steering) etc.
If the rubber shows cracks or tears or looks dry and brittle or the bolts seem to be wearing oblong holes in the rubber, then replace it.
Amazing revelation to me today. Now all I have to do is find a new rubber coupling piece on late Saturday or Sunday.....and I got it made!!
I hope this information helps anyone who is interested and those in the future who begin to notice strange happenings in their steering especially when everythiing under the car, steering arms, joints, gears linkage etc. all look fine. Then it would be a good idea to check this very easy to find rubber coupling under the dash.
Have a good weekend gentlemen and thanks again to all who helped. Kurt
Gentleman all, especially to you Lez, Mark and Justin and anyone I may have forgotten, I want to say a genuine thanks.
It is becoming clear to me that the BMW 850 V-12 is nothing more mysterious than a car. A car is a car is a car. Figure it out and fix it, just like all the others in my life. I guess that I have just gotten so far away from repairs in the last 5 years that I didn't realize. I've worked all my life on cars, rebuilding, racing, restoring for 40 some years and I guess I just got tired or bored with it 5 years ago. But, it's amazing how easy it is, how you don't forget all those years of experience and how good the tools still work. Using Dads in this case, the same tools that he used since the 30s through the 70s till he stopped working on them. Funny. Anyway, Thanks again, Now I'm off to look for parts. I know, I know, Good luck until Monday!!
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I have finally finished the Saga and important scenario of the life-saving and necessary steering that all our cars share regardless of the year or model etc. Here is the information for all who like steering that works and who deem it necessary to know how to keep it that way.
First of all I cannot express enough the importance of finding an "Honest, Knowledgeable, and Experienced mechanic that you can talk to easily!!!" I know, usually that is referred to as "The Impossible Dream"!
Most of you 850 or E31 owner/drivers do not work on your cars and therefore most of what is said on this board about mechanics is Greek. For that reason and to make it simple for those of us who do enjoy the grease of wrenching this job has turned out to be simple, as with most highly touted complex mechanical scenarios.
Steering linkage under the Dash:
- The one most important factor of the steering under the Dash is the adjustment of the big Nut surrounding your lower steering shaft just before it disappears through your inner firewall into the engine compartment. This big nut is referred to as a compression nut. This big nut, if improperly made too tight will stop the necessary sliding movement back and forth (in and out)(yes like sex) that is required to occur when you activate your electric steering wheel adjustment closer or father away from you or the dash. If someone, (you or mechanic) tighten this nut to the point that stops the in and out sliding of the splined shaft, you will effectively cause tremendous pressure and distortion to occur to the Rubber Dampener Coupling that is located further up the shaft, and this Rubber Coupling will then begin a very rapid deterioration forcing its retaining nuts to embed themselves into the rubber and then effectively cause a rip in the Rubber Coupling that will cause total loss of your steering. This process takes anywhere from a week to a month or two depending upon how often you drive the car and how curvy your road. The more you turn the more you lose.
- When the lower Nut is tightened so that the splined shaft cannot go in and out with movement of the electric column control, then the Rubber coupling is forced to stretch beyond it's limitations, especially if it's adjusted tight in the down (close to the dash) position and then the control is activated to bring the wheel closer to the driver. In that case the distortion becomes immense and intolerable to the Rubber coupling. - Should one ever desire to check this out, you can easily remove the under the dash trim pieces and take a look. This shaft and all it's components are easy to remove and replace as long as the big nut is able to be loosened. In most cases this is no problem. If it cannot be loosened then you must remove it from the car and put it in a vice and make it loose! (rare case, but this is what I just had to do. Someone had tightened mine so tight it would barely come loose only after a heat torch made it very hot!! I will always wonder who did this and why??? It did just come out of the dealers shop 3 weeks earlier for steering column work, what can I say!)
- Anyway, if the Nut will come loose usually by putting a big wrench on it and turning with someone else helping you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. After the Nut is loose you would then remove the four retaining nuts, two on either side of the Rubber Coupling that is located between the Flange (two mounting bolts) and the upper end of the lower steering shaft (the other two mounting bolts)and then you loosen the nut enough so that the main shaft with nut can be pushed inward toward the engine to create enough room to take apart and take out the old Rubber Coupling and insert the new one.
- The Rubber Coupling does not come with the Nuts and the Wavy (spring) washers that are necessary to do the job properly. You should use new ones of stainless steel strength, The wavy washers must be a size almost exactly 8mm ID.(inside diameter) X 15mm OD.(outside diameter) Both sizes are critical. The ID. must be 8mm to allow the bolt to pass through and the OD. must be no bigger as then it will begin to impede the proper movement of your required steering when turning. It is *imperative* that the Rubber Coupling (with steel cylinders positioned inside each hole at the factory) is placed in the mounting bolts slowly and carefully making sure that they are gently urged a little at a time onto each bolt a little at a time until the Rubber Coupling has fully inserted all four bolts all the way into all holes before attaching any washers and nuts.
- At this point you will want to attach the Washer first over the mounting bolt sticking through the Rubber Coupling and then the Nut making it only finger tight. You will only be able to do one bolt at a time, that bolt which you can see which will be the closest nut to you, and then you will want to activate the power steering for a few moments to easily turn the wheel to the next nut to begin putting on the washer first, then the nut, then finger tightening and so on till they are all tightened only by fingers. Then once finger tightened you will want to wrench (13mm) tighten each one to a torque spec of 16 to 20 lbs. That means using your hands with the 13 mm wrench to make them very tight, but nowhere near your maximum hand tightening power which could be 50 to 75 lb torque that's not necessary! you just want good and normal tight! . You will use the same method of turning the wheel via power steering from nut to nut.
- Once the coupling is properly attached and retained by wavy washers and self-locking nuts properly tightened, you will want to activate your electric steering column control and watch the column go in and out and see if the shaft down just below the nut (passing through the fire-wall into the eng compartment) is sliding in and out of the big nut (yes, like sex). If it is not sliding then the nut is too tight. If it is sliding then you need to adjust it. The best method I have found to use is to simply have a big wrench of the proper size and to tighten the Nut to the point just where it stops the movement in and out of the splined shaft. Then immediately turn the big nut back one full turn so that the shaft will easily move in and out of the big Nut. Also make sure that the shaft is properly greased in the grooves with a good bearing grease. "Properly" means just enough grease to fill the little groves, not a big mess all over everything.
- At this point it is always a good idea to raise the hood and to check the nut located on the steering gear universal joint to make sure that (hopefully it is there) and that it is tight, holding the other end of the splined shaft firmly to the steering gear. The spline is located just inside the firewall in the engine compartment where it comes through from inside the under dash where you have just been working and then down to the steering gear where you will see the universal joint with just one bolt and nut holding it tight.
At the moment, typing fast and trying to get this done as I am late (as usual) I may have overlooked something. However, if any of you have any questions later please let me know and if you know of any better method of doing this job in any phase I would sure appreciate knowing of it. There is always room for improvement when it comes to mechanics and proper methods. Thanks for listening Ladies and Gentlemen, I hope this information is of help to someone in the future.
Kurt Grayson
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from e31faq.com
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How the steering box slack adjustment can be so mechanically simple to do and so physically a pain in the rear to accomplish is beyond me. Not one of BMWs finest placements for work. With that aside, first the simple explanation and then what I had to do to do it.
Once over lightly:
1. Remove the aluminum heat shield on the steering box (2 bolts with washers).
2. Identify 17mm locking bolt with small allen screw in center and loosen 1/4 turn.
3. Jack up front of car so that tires are clear of the ground.
4. Turn ignition key to release steering lock and it's helpful to lower the driver's window.
5. Tighten the allen screw (you might need a mirror to see it) a little bit at a time with the steering wheel turned a little until you feel a SLIGHT increase in resistance as you turn the steering wheel from left to right through center. This requires a light touch. You should only feel this increase in resistance as the steering wheel passes through the centered or straight ahead position. You only have to do a 1/4 turn left and right of the steering wheel to feel this in your fingertips.
If you feel a lot of increase as the steering wheel is moved through center, back off the allen a little until you only feel a little.
6. Tighten 17mm locking nut. Recheck the steering wheel to see if you can still feel that resistance increase at center. If not repeat steps 5 & 6 until satisfied.
7. Re-install aluminum heat shield, lower car off of jack, wash you hands and pat yourself on the back.
It is step 2 that is the biggest pain to do since my hand could not get any leverage down there and it was on too tight. My solution was to use a 17mm shorty combo wrench to engage the locking nut, and to engage the shorty, I used a 17mm Allen on a 3/8 drive with a 18" extension to break it loose. When I tightened it after finishing the adjustment I just used my hand on the 17mm shorty.
Roger in Mt Airy (MD)
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from e31faq.com
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I had a strong smell of fuel coming from rear passenger side (more from the outside) and sure enough I had the infamous leak from fuel pump located beneath the passenger back seat. Although it has been described for 93+ E31, I thought I would post info for those of us with one piece back seats.
In order to get the back seat out, you need to first undo 3 Phillips screw holding the center rear storage space (one holding the medical kit). Then you need to remove the rear inside panel. This is held on by series of 5 clips at the base of the window and by 3 pop out rivets (green) along the front edge of the panel as shown below. You need to pull along the top edge straight in towards the center of the vehicle to undo the top clamps.
You are then able to undo 2 nuts holding the back seat in place along the topside of the seats. The entire seat can then be removed. The fuel pump is located beneath a round metal cover held down by 3 Philips screws.
When I removed the cover, a pool of fuel was found on top of the fuel pump assembly.
In my case, the leak was coming from one of two short fuel lines connected to top of the pump. I understand that you can also have a leak from the electrical connectors (to fuel sensor and fuel pump regulator) or from the fuel pump itself. Although the fuel lines are only ~4inches long and clamps are visible, it is impossible to get access to the other end of the line (the end that is not visible) without removing the tank itself. Quick call to a knowledgeable friend, and he suggested drilling a small hole on the floor to gain access to these clamps. So we drilled a 1.5 inch diameter hole on the floor and voila.
The fuel lines (5/16 inch ID) were replaced and no more leak. We were careful to mop up the fuel and even had a Halon extinguisher in hand as we drilled into the floor as a small spark could have easily toasted not only our car, but both of us as well. Also the fuel line holds a lot of fuel (several ounces easily). We even lifted the back end of the car up to reduce the amount of fuel that had to be drained.
Hope this helps anyone else on this board with a similar problem.
Richard
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from e31faq.com
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Weekend. Raining. What better else to do but fix that flashing Brake light.
Since I was quoted about $800 at the dealer to fix this, I'd better venture into this DIY project. This would be my first try of this magnitude other than the usual maintenance of changing air filters, or a wiper blade, or a burnt out bulb or a fuse.- Depressurize, depressurize!
- Take out wheel
- Take out outer fender liners
- Take out inner fender liner to expose Brake Accumulator location
- Brake Accumulator exposed
- NOTE: Temperature Sensor Duct on the foreground.
- Carefully take out Temperature Sensor Duct to give more room for work.
- NOTE: The Temperature Sensor is actually mounted on the opposite end of this duct
- Detach Temperature Sensor from the duct
- Here's a view of the fully exposed Brake Accumulator in all its glory!
- Spray all nuts with penetrating lubricant
- I used a 17mm Crowfoot Socket to initially loosen the two flare nuts.
- I interchangeably used a 3-in-1 Breaker Bar and a 3/8" Ratchet.
- Then I used a 17mm open wrench to loosen the flare nuts further
- And just to be sure that I did not introduce some dirt into the pipes, I used an Inspection Mirror to view the end tips of the pipes.
- I re-used the Rubber Grommets because:
- I did not know before hand that I had to order these
- They were still perfectly in good shape
- Install the new Brake Accumulator
- Start the car briefly enough to allow Pentosin to fill the Accumulator
- Turn steering wheel from left to right
- Refill Pentosin just about an inch from the top (approximately or somewhere around there)
- WARNING: Do not overfill! · Restart engine, test brakes and check Accumulator for leaks before closing up
Tools and materials I used:
- 9mm, 11mm sockets for the fender liners and accumulator mounts- 17mm Crowfoot Socket
- 17mm open wrench or
- 17mm Flare Nut wrench
- 3-in-1 Breaker Bar with sliding bar
- 3/8" Ratchet · Inspection Mirror
- 3" Extension · Pentosin
- Penetrating Lubricant (I used "Liquid Wrench")
- Rust Paint: I coated all fender liner screws and those little clip thingys while I was at it
- a screwdriver
- and oh, disposable gloves (don't want too much dirt and grease in my nails, okay?)
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour, because I was taking my sweet time (Hey! I wasn't paid for this, besides, the dealership probably charges 2-3 hours on this!)
TOTAL SPENT: $US 141.63 for Brake Accumulator (P/N: 34331162056) + $25 for Pentosin
Contributed by: RoyM Roadfly Member
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from e31faq.com
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The E31 doesn't have the self-leveling rear suspension. Here's a diagram of the hydraulic system:
The accumulator is "5" in the above diagram, and while the diagram shows it attached to the pressure regulator, due to tight spacing it's actually located forward of the left wheel and attaches to the system via a long series of pipes. Here's a picture of the accumulator, or "bomb" with the left light assembly removed:
So, the procedure is to first turn off the engine after the car is warmed up. Depress brake pedal fully 10-15 times, or until it becomes firm at the top of it's stroke. At this point, you've expended all the stored energy in the accumulator, and the fluid reservoir should now contain the fluid that was stored in the accumulator. Another way to check if the accumulator is depressurized is to remove the cap from the reservoir and depress the brake pedal. If the fluid does not rise, the accumulator is depressurized.
Remove reservoir cover and add Pentosin CHF 7.1 (or CHF 11 depending on which fluid your car uses) until fluid level is 10mm (about 3/8") from top lip (dimension "A" below"):
With the engine running, the fluid level should drop slight to about 25mm, or about 1" below the lip.
Mark
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from e31fqa.com
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Here's the belt tensioner from the parts list:
Item 7 is probably what's causing the screech - a worn tensioner pulley bearing. I'd recommend replacing both this and the tensioner piston, item 15, at the same time.
Removal is simple. Jack the front of the car and remove the lower splash shield (4 bolts). The tensioner is to the left and slightly above/alongside the alternator. Release the tension by unscrewing the larger of the two bolts on the top bracket of the tensioner. Here's a pic:
Once released, you can remove these two nuts and a single bolt below and the entire assembly will come free. Replacement is the same, but you need to re-tension the belt by placing an open end on the larger of the two top nuts and turning to the left. At the same time, tighten the lower lock nut. Here's another picture:
The same procedure applies for the A/C belt tensioner on the other side, except the pulley assembly is upside down with respect to the alternator version.
Mark
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from e31faq.com
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Ok, I just finished replacing the heater core in my dad's '94 840Ci. While this is fresh in my mid I thought I would outline the procedure, I'm going from memory here, so I will do the best hit all the sneaky stuff. The repair manual is really a necessity here as well.
This not a job for the faint of heart. Also, I strongly suggest taking the time to place all fasteners back in their respective holes as you go. It will make things go a lot easier on reassembly.
Also, I would advise that you label all connectors as you take things apart. There are an awful lot of wires, and some unused connectors, so labeling them helps to avoid any confusion.
Lastly, if you are about to tackle this, read through the entire procedure before starting to get an idea of what is involved.
Warning: If you run the car at anytime during this lengthy procedure you have to reconnect both air bags, otherwise you will trip an SRS fault that will have to be cleared by the dealer.
.5) Turn key on, Switch wipers on, Put windows down, open sunroof (for light), lower steering column. Remove fuse for power steering column. Shut key off. (i.e. leave steering column lowered and wipers vertical)
1) disconnect batteries (Single ground post near L.S. battery in trunk), leave trunk open (place rag or something over latch)
2) Remove left and right kick panels. Removal of the left kick panel requires removal of hood release lever. They will require some gentle persuasion to come out.
3) Remove left and right under-dash panels. These should come out fairly easily with the kick panels removed.
4) Remove left and right and lower dash trim. Start by gently prying these away from the dash closest to the doors. There are studs that hold them into plastic retainers. They require a good amount of effort and will make a pretty bad noise coming off. Also be careful when you get to the ones closest to the center of the dash. Pry them away by sticking a screwdriver or flat blade of some sort in behind them, other wise you may pull the stud(s) out of the trim panel.
Continue removing them from the center console by pulling, They are held onto the console with Velcro! And I though Alfa's and Ferraris were bad as they are assembled with pop rivets.
4a) if any of the above mentioned studs pull out of the trim panel, you can make Martha Stewart proud, and use a hot-glue gun to reattach them.
5) Remove rear seats. They just lift out from the front edge.
6) Remove the center armrest in the rear.
7) Remove e-brake boot. The base snaps out, as you work the boot of the lever by turning it inside out, you will see a zip tie that holds it on. Cut this off and remove the boot.
Note: The step 8 applies to the automatic transmission only, YMMV.
Remove the shift knob, and boot. The knob just pulls off, with a good tug. Use a rubber mallet to tap it back on. The boot snaps off towards the center of the opening.
8a) Remove the two screws that hold the plate on around the shifter.
8b) Remove the small retainer clip that holds the pin in the shifter to the gear indicator. A steady hand and a pair of tweezers helps here. Gently pry the black plastic clip up, and push the pin underneath to the right. It stays in the shift lever.
8c) Carefully lift the gear selector indicator assembly up, and disconnect the wires to it and the transmission mode switch.
9) Remove radio and disconnect wires.
10) Remove OBC display unit and disconnect.
11) Remove two plugs at top of center console and remove screws.
12) You can now remove the center portion of the center console. Gently pry it down and out from the top first and then disengage it from the bottom.
13) Disconnect wires to the seat heater switches, the red thingy, climate control, temp sensor, and the ASC switch. You can now remove this piece from the car and add to the growing pile of parts.
14) Remove the various bins and compartments from the center console, including the ashtray. All the screws that hold the center console in should now be exposed. Remove the two screws at the rear the two or three in the middle (bottom), the four on the sides (bottom) and the four at the front that hold it to the dash. Remove the center console. (Pull the e-brake up as far as possible)
15) Open glove box, and remove the two screws that hold the black felt piece on, which is above the glove box, and below the air bag. You can now lift the cover that exposes the passenger side airbag. Remove the other two screws behind this, and remove the glove box lock/latch assembly. There is a piece behind the latch [Oops!]'y which will fall off, this just snaps back on, after it is lined up correctly.
16) The batteries are disconnected right? Remove the orange connector from it's holder (give it a twist a quarter turn or so), remove the four bolts that hold the air bag in place, remove the air bag and set it down carefully somewhere right side up.
17) You will see a tubular brace/bracket to which the air bag is attached. Follow this down towards the middle of the car. Remove the bottom most bolt (8mm, 13mm wrench). Alas, cut the two zip ties that hold the air bag wire to the brace ... carefully.
18) Look behind the glove box. There is a wiring harness clipped to the back of the glove box, or near there. Disconnect the connector and make sure that the half of it that comes from the car is free from the dash. There is also a connector for the glove box lock, disconnect this as well. Now that I'm thinking about this removal of the glove box lock/latch [Oops!]'y in step 15 above is probably not required.
19) Remove lower steering column shroud. There is one screw that holds it on, loosen the screw and remove the screw and retainer. The shroud is clipped to the upper half. Some tugging is required.
20) You will see an orange connector under the steering column. Give it a quarter turn or so and remove it from its holder. Disconnect the connector.
21) Remove two torx screws behind the steering wheel that hold the air bag on. Remove the air bag and set aside facing up carefully.
22) Remove bolt that holds the steering wheel on, make sure that the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. You may want to make a pair of corresponding punch marks or somehow mark the wheel to the shaft so that you can put it back on in the proper position.
Note: Do not turn the slip ring independently when the steering wheel is off. Also, when reinstalling the steering wheel, there is an index pin that fits into a corresponding hole in the back of the slip ring, make sure that is properly lined up/engaged.
23) Remove upper steering column shroud. Comes off the same way as the lower. You dropped the steering column before disconnecting the batteries, right? If not you can still get it out, but it is a lot harder, BTDT.
24) Remove two small screws from the top of the trim panel that surrounds the instrument cluster. There are two clips on either side that holds this in. A gentle pull on the trim, starting at the top and working around it should get it free. The two clips just slide into it so if you don't remove them they will fall out.
25) Carefully unplug all the switches ... Defroster, Fog lights, headlights, and dimmer wheel.
26) You will see two small Philips head screws that hold the instrument cluster in place (at the top), remove these screws being careful to collect the cone-washers under the screws as well. You can now remove the instrument cluster from the dash, and remove the single connector.
27) Directly behind the instrument cluster you will see three bundles of wires, these are held to a 'frame' with two zip ties. Cut these zip ties, and pull these cables forward slightly. They will be in front a defroster duct, which will come out with the dash.
28) Remove the four switches from the steering column and let the hang there. They are clipped in. There are some ears that you have to push/press to release them. You may have gently tug on the wiring harnesses that go to them slightly to get enough slack to extract them. Note the two pins (Air bag index, and horn contact) that are sticking out of the steering column.
29) Remove the left and right 'A' Pillar trim. Pull it away slightly from the windshield at the top, and then up and it will come out. There is one clip near the top, and a tab that it fits into on the dash.
30) Remove the two pieces of foam that are at the bottom of where the trim that you just removed sits. It can be removed intact if you are careful, and put back in to prevent squeaks and rattles.
31) Remove the two small bolts that are in the corners of the dash. I used a 1/4" drive deep socket and a magnet to extract them. To put them back in, I used some dum-dum to hold the bolt into the socket, and some very dexterous fingers are required.
32) Remove the left most bottom bolt in the drivers side knee bolster.
33) Remove the two plugs that cover the bolts in the sides of the dash. (In door jambs) Remove the bolts, and the plastic cups that are behind them.
34) Remove the two screws at hold the lower edge of the dash to the knee bolster on the driver’s side.
35) Remove the two bolts that hold the sides of the dash to the car. These are under the dash and go from the center of the car towards the outside.
36) Remove the bracket that is was held by the bolt that you just removed on the L.S., it might be stuck in place, this was also held by the left most lower bolt in the knee bolster.
37) Reach behind the dash through the instrument pod opening, and there are two wires going to the center fresh air vents. One of them has a connector. Disconnect it. The other wires (there are two of them) go to the light for the fresh air vent dial. You have two choices ... You can cut the wires, and put a connector on them which is what I would suggest doing, or you can remove the vent assembly from the dash. There are three clips on the bottom and two on the top (or is it the other way around?) You will most likely break the small tabs in the plastic of the vent that hold the metal retainers into it when you try to remove it, I did. Hence I would suggest cutting the wires, they are just for a light.
If you opt to remove the dash vent from the dash, it has to go back in before the surround for the instrument cluster.
38) You are now ready to remove the dash. It pulls out to the rear, lifting slightly. Be careful of the two pins that I mentioned earlier in the steering column. Go slowly, and make sure that every thing is clear. Note the clip in the middle near the top, when reinstalling the dash; make sure that this properly engaged.
*Approx. Time so far, having never done this before 3.5hrs.
Yippee, now you are ready to tackle the heater core.
39) There is another tubular brace on the drivers side remove the bottom bolt near where the center console was, remove the bolt that holds it to the body all the way over on the left (there is a large zip tie that holds a million wires, cut this and carefully move the wires over a little), remove the two bolts that hold it to the steering column, and the two other bolts near the last two.
40) This is tricky; There are two more bolts that you have to remove that hold this brace to the steering column. Using a very long 13mm box wrench I was able to loosen them a little, and then using a 1/4" drive air ratchet remove them. The manual says to remove the two shear bolts that a little further up, that would be even more difficult.
41) You should now be able to move this brace slightly. You have to move it enough to clear the cover on the heater box. You may have to make a small slit in the carpeting, I did. It will be behind the console when it all goes back together, so it will not be visible.
42) Remove the two brackets at the bottom of the heater housing.
43) Cut the zip ties that hold the wires to the cover on the heater housing, disconnect the two temp. Sensors, and move all the wires out of the way. You may need to disconnect one or two of the flap motors on the right side.
44) Remove all the clips that hold the cover onto the heater housing. I think there are six or so. Remove the cover. There is a small foam gasket between the two halves; you may want to make sure that it is there. Half of mine fell out when I removed the cover, but I was able to fit back in, with little difficulty.
45) If you haven't already done so, drain the coolant. Disconnect the three heater hoses at the firewall and/or the heater valves. You can remove the 'cowling' that holds the micro air filters pretty easily on the 8 cylinder cars. Two bolts at the top, one on either side and it lifts right out. This gives more room to get to the hoses. Don't know about the 12 cylinder cars.
46) Using compressed air, at a fairly low pressure, blow out the three hoses/fittings. Otherwise you may make a little bit of a mess inside the car.
47) Remove the plastic double pipe from the metal pipes (one bolt) and the heater core (four bolts) and remove.
48) Remove the remaining bolt from the top of the heater core. This fitting (left most) requires a 1/4 turn or so to disengage the flange.
49) Remove heater core.
50) Install new Heater core. I got mine at the local dealer. Approx. 90.00 or so, and it included new 'o' rings for the fittings, as well as the foam insulation for the heater core. Getting the one flange back on with the new 'o' ring is a little tricky. You can do it with a pair of pliers, very carefully.
*Approx. Cumulative Time so far 7.5 hrs
51) As they say, reassembly is the reverse of removal. Now is a real good time to clean the windshield and the dash. Go slow, and make sure that everything is back together properly and all connectors are properly connected. Especially around the shifter, climate control and radio the routing of the wires is important so that nothing interferes with anything else. I had a problem with something rubbing against the fan in the back of the climate control unit. But I'm happy to say that there don't appear to be any rattles or squeaks. *Close to another full day to put everything back together.
Jeff Greenfield
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from e31faq.com
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BMW's V-12 hydraulic camshaft chain tensioner contains an O-ring that hardens over time and allows oil to seep past the O-ring and out through the tension adjustment screw threads. This results in small puddles of oil on the garage floor and an oil-soaked A/C compressor and drive belt. This slow leakage does not affect the operating performance of the tensioner.
The tensioner is located on the right front of the engine, directly above the A/C compressor. Most tensioners still have their “anti-tampering” cap in place, a black cylindrical plastic cap to protect the adjustment screw from damage. Oil typically weeps along the adjustment screw and exits the tensioner at the end of this cap, which is open. Some tensioners have their protection cap missing, exposing the adjustment screw and lock nut.
Here's a schematic of the entire assembly:
1. Tension set screw
2. Set screw lock nut (17mm)
3. Screw plug (19 mm)
4. Aluminum crush sealing ring (07 11 9 963 355)
5. Dowel sleeve O-ring (11 31 1 702 953)
6. Dowel sleeve
7. Spring
8. Piston
You'll need to purchase items 4 and 5 above, and also the anti-tampering cover (11 31 1 720 006), which is not shown. You also need 17mm and 19mm deep sockets and a torque wrench calibrated up to 50 NM.
The picture below shows the location of the tensioner cap assembly on the engine, just forward of the airconditioning compressor on the right, front, lower section of the engine.
To gain access, remove the intake mass airflow sensor and rubber ducting between the air cleaner housing and the DK motor assembly. Also, disconnect the high tension lead from the coil and carefully put aside. You'll need to remove the protection cap (item 1 below left) by vigorously wiggling from side to side. It can't be reused, so don't worry about damaging it.
Next, take your 17mm socket and release the tensioner set screw locknut (item 2 above). Leave it loose on the set screw (item 1) and give the set screw precisely 1 counterclockwise turn to release a tiny bit of pressure off the tensioner piston. Don't disturb the setscrew any further, and gently snug the lock nut back down onto the screw plug (item 3).
Next, get your 19mm deep socket, fit over the screw plug, and giving a mighty heave, unscrew the plug. Do not release the plug entirely from the cylinder block. The piston inside is under considerable pressure and will definitely damage hands if you're not prepared to press against it when the screw threads release. Slowly unscrew the plug. When it releases, a capful of oil will drain from the tensioner piston all over the floor, so be prepared to catch it. Once free, you might have to extract the piston (item
from the bore by fishing around with your little finger. Here's what it all looks like in the flesh:Now, using an Xacto knife, carefully nick and pry at the O-ring (item 5) on the dowel sleeve (6). Do not scratch or otherwise damage the dowel sleeve. The O-ring will be very hard and sealed in its groove. Once free, clean the groove, replace the O-ring, and replace the crush ring (item 4) on the screw plug.
Now, time to assemble everything. Insert the piston into the bore with the end of your little finger, and press and rotate until you feel the end of the piston "key" into the tensioner ramp. Here's a picture of the piston engaging the ramp below on the left in item 1.
Now comes the hard part. Seat the narrow end of the spring (7) into the dowel sleeve (6), and seat the sleeve into the screw plug (3). I then put the screw plug into my 19mm socket, guided the spring into the back of the piston, and tried repeatedly to compress the spring enough to allow the screw plug to engage a thread on the cylinder block. It's really tough, so take your time. You'll get the hang of it after about 10 minutes. Once you've got it threaded, torque the screw plug down with 40 NM.
Next, turn the set screw 1 turn clockwise to restore the original tension setting, and tighten the 17 mm set screw (2) down with 20 NM torque (my guess - it's not in the specs). Place the protection cap on the setscrew and wiggle it snug onto the screw plug.
Because you've drained a small catch reservoir the tensioner uses to feed oil to the piston, the tensioner will need to be primed. If the right camshaft cover is off, you can pour a small amount of oil down the right side of the camshaft front cover, where it will fill the reservoir. Then insert a long screwdriver (I used a wood paint mixing blade) and depress and release the tensioner ramp repeatedly until it becomes resistant to movement (see the A-B diagram above).
If you don't have the covers off and the tensioner ramp accessible, I've been told the following works pretty well. Set the OBC antitheft CODE feature of your car to disable the ignition, crank the engine three times for 10 seconds each time, and then disable the CODE feature to allow the engine to fire. You'll probably hear a lot of chain slap for the next 30 seconds while the reservoir fills and the tensioner piston primes. Degree of difficulty: 5 on a scale of 10.
Mark in SBA
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Normal Conditions
Up to five green lights illuminate depending on vehicle use since new or last maintenance. Reduction of ill uminated green lights is a countdown for the next service due.
Oil Service Alert
All green lights are off and only the yellow light is illuminated along wi th the "Oil Service" sign, alerting you that oil service is necessary.
Inspection Service Alert
All green lights are off and only the yellow light is illum inated along with the "Inspection" sign, alerting you that this service is necessary.
Overdue Inspection Service Alert
The red light will illuminate along with the yellow one to serve as a warning that service is overdue; and in the interest of read safety and reliability, avoid driving your BMW. Schedule an appointment immediately.
Re-set to Normal ConditionOnce the required service is performed, the technician resets the service interval indicator to "normal" conditions to compute the next service / maintenance interval. In 1996, BMW lowered maintenance guidelines due to their introduction of the scheduled maintenance service. This upgrade in service extends your BMW's longevity and performance.
The BMW service intervals consist of three main service groups.
- Oil Service: Engine oil and filter change and additional preventative maintenance services.
- Inspection I: Major vehicle maintenance as specified in your Service Booklet.
- Inspection II: Additional major vehicle maintenance as specified in your Service Booklet.
Also, there are additional services that are required annually, which consist of: (These are excluded from the main service groups.)
- Brake fluid flush
- Coolant fluid flush
- If your BMW is equipped with a timing belt (M20 engine), the timing belt should be replaced every 4 years or 50,000 miles which ever occurs first.
- Oxygen sensor replacement
Here is a table you can use to determine when maintenance is required: You should follow BMW's factory guidelines step by step to meet all BMW factory warranty requirements . Always refer to your owner's manual for a detailed description of the services for your model year.
