from e31faq.com
Beiträge von 8er.org
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Tools Needed:
* 10MM socket, extension, 3/8 drive.
* 10MM wrench. v 7MM socket, ¼ drive.
* Standard screwdriver set.
* Curved tip Screwdriver (looks like a screwdriver with a pick at the end).
* Needle nose pliers.
* Magnetic pick-up (heavily used).
* Inspection mirror.
* Compressed air or other means of cleaning valve covers such as a vacuum.
* Razor scraper to remove flaking paint, etc.
* Q-Tip with long sticks.
* Auxiliary lighting or well-lit garage.
* Sheets of plastic and 2 heavy towels to cover the exposed Valve housing (If you plan to leave the cams exposed for a while).Materials list:
* Valve cover gaskets, $22 per set, 1 pack per side.
* Brake parts cleaner.
* RTV (Optional), Permatex ultra black to seal imperfections.* Rags.
Procedure:
* Remove engine cover and cylinder covers.
* Remove ignition coils (note: Mark the coils with cylinder # from which it came).
* This is a good time to inspect/replace the ignition coil boots. If you had oil leak to the Spark plug cavity the boots may be oil saturated. You can snap the boots out from the coil and leave them on a paper towel and you’ll see that oil seeps out. Clean the inside with and out with a micro fiber cloth.
* Unbolt the fuel rail and remove the engine cover supports. Don’t pull the rail.
* Remove the air filter box cover, mass airflow sensor and intake tube.
* Remove sensor wires as needed.
* Loosen both electronics modules (the long black boxes). Start on the left.
* 2 nuts on top, pretty obvious.* Sensor modules clip to fuel injectors. Stick the Curved tip Screwdriver in the backside of the clips and pull one side out and down, then the other side until the clip is completely off. The back ones on each side are very hard to get to. You MUST have a small round mirror, like a dentist mirror, and you MUST have a magnet on the end of an extension to pick up any pieces that fall. It also helps to have a small pen light flashlight. For the back ones, remove the metal bracket that holds on the plastic engine cover to get better access.
* Vacuum or blow out the spark plug cavity. Clean the edges of the valve cover.
* Unbolt and remove valve cover (Inspect fuel lines while they are accessible).* Clean valve cover. v Clean gasket-seating surfaces and remove any gunk you got on the valves.
* Press in new gaskets. (Optional) Run a thin bead of rtv along gasket (I used Permatex Ultra Black).
* Replace valve covers. Make sure half moons at rear seat properly. Check and double check
* Valve cover nuts bottom out, so there is no real torque spec. About 14 ft/lb 168 in/lb should suffice. Just remember you are dealing with aluminum. Tighten in an alternating random pattern. I did mine from inside out and crisscross. Do not over tighten as the stud end may break and then it is another thing to repair (Speaking from experience).
* Replacement is the reverse of removal.* Putting the clips back on is dead simple. You just slide the wire clips fully back onto the connectors before you reinstall. They are designed so that when pressed in, they spread out and then lock in, so all you have to do is push the unit back on and it all locks back into place.
* The inspection mirror is indispensable for checking clip and gasket placement.
Pictures:Removing out the engine cover and cylinder covers
Taking out the air filter housing and AMF (air mass flow) sensor
Taking out Ignition Coil Connectors and Others
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from e31faq.com
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First, lets discuss what the fan clutch does and why it is there. The fan clutch is just what the name says, it is a mechanism that will clutch the fan on and off depending on the need for more or less cooling air to flow thru the radiator. It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. When cruising down the road at freeway speeds, with outside temperature less then desert conditions, the fan should be merely be idling along, turning just fast enough to add a little air flow when needed, in this way the fan noise and drag on the engine is greatly reduced. When reducing speed, the fan clutch will sense higher temperatures thru the radiator and “clutch up” thereby increasing the fan speed to help maintain constant engine temperature. It may in fact, cycle as the temperature of the air thru the radiator changes depending on airflow. If the fan clutch operation is normal, when first starting the car, the fan clutch should “clutch up” and an increase in noise and airflow should be obvious. After about 60-90 seconds, the fan will un-clutch and the noise and airflow will drop. The fan will continue to turn but at a much reduced speed. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens to regulate the temperature, the air thru the radiator gets hotter and the clutch will sense this, thereby increasing the speed of the fan to maintain a normal operating temperature.
First signs of trouble:
A normal temperature indication at freeway speeds and an increasing temperature as the vehicle slows is one of the first indications of trouble. Many other things may give this indication but if the temperature seems to be stable at speeds but climbs in traffic or while stopped, this is a good indication that the fan clutch isn’t working correctly. As the temperature continues to climb, the auxiliary electric fan should start but may not provide enough air to keep the engine from overheating.
Another sign of trouble is if the fan noise is high and never decreases after starting, and is there anytime the engine RPM is higher then idle, this means that the fan clutch is “frozen” and is not releasing. Although this will not result in immediately serious trouble, it will load the engine continually and gas MPG will be reduced. Load on the fan belt(s) will be higher and shorten the life of that component also.
Fan modifications:
It has been suggested that other models of BMW fans can be substituted to reduce the noise and load of the fan. This is NOT recommended! If the fan clutch is working properly, there should be no need to replace with a lesser fan. The noise and load of the fan should only be there when it is “clutched up” and the fan speed needed to keep that big V-12 cool. BMW designed it this way and it is never a good idea to alter the cooling system and in particular where alloy engines would be effected.Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be carefull, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches "redline".
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from e31faq.com
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All 1989-94 BMW vehicles are equipped with a self diagnostic system for the detection of injection faults. When a fault is detected by the system the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) records the code corresponding to the defect in the ECU's memory until either:
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from e31faq.com
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Author: Jon Nelson on 2004-12-21
Prepare for the job, this repair will drop lots of fluid (brake fluid, Pentosin, and a bit of coolant) to the ground between the firewall and the left front tire. Put a large baking pan under the car at that point to catch the drippings. There are two parts to the job, one inside the car and one under the hood. Spend the first 45 minutes inside disconnecting things and getting your bearings, you will be clean and less likely to get grease on the carpet. Finally, at the end of the job you will need to bleed the brakes so make sure you have a helper and the room to bleed the brakes. Also, keep in mind that these specifications are for my 1992 850i 6-speed. The fittings are slightly different for other models, particularly the 840, which I believe has an additional fitting on the bottom of the booster unit. I think Ed covered that in an earlier post.
Tools/Parts:
I use mostly 1/4" drive tools at this point in my life because they are lighter and easier to use. Specialty tools: 7mm (for bleeding the brakes), 11mm, 14mm and 17mm flare wrenches. 17mm SnapOn 3/8" crowfoot flare wrench (part number FRHM17). 13mm, 1/4" drive, flexible joint socket (Sears part number 00943199000).
1 liter of Pentosin 7.1 or 11S (synthetic); whatever the reservoir cap indicates
1 can of brake fluid
Coolant (not much is lost).
NAPA O-ring part numberBK 7272222 [http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-…ce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/ search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15618915&prmenbr=5806] or #222 at [http://www.oringswest.com/]
I also replaced the two grommets that seal the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder.
Procedure:
1) Set the wipers to vertical
2) Ignition off, pump brakes 15-20 times till hard to discharge system pressure.
3) Remove interior driver's side footwell trim, including 2 plastic screws near pedals (rotate 90 degrees); 2 plastic screws on under side of leather trim; 2 plastic screws on left foot rest; open hood and remove single screw in center of hood release lever on the left foot rest. Remove lever, foot rest, leather trim (careful, there is Velcro along the console, and three retaining pins along the top), and pedal cover. Your remote entry module may be attached to the top of the cover, if so, disconnect the electrical connector and set these parts aside. There is also a black air duct that is in the way. It is held in place with a single screw. Remove it and look at the brake pedal assembly.
4) Under hood: remove four screws the hold the cabin intake cowling cover in place, then the two screws that hold the cowling in place and remove the cowling. Next remove the plastic cover to the heater valve solenoids, the two electrical connectors to: a) the solenoids, and b) the auxiliary pump. The latter is on a flimsy plastic holder mounted to the firewall with a Phillips screw. Careful, don't break or lose this. There are two brake regulator pressure switches with two contacts each. Remove the contacts and note where they go. Remove the three 'Acorn' nuts that hold the solenoid assembly in place. Gently lift this assembly and note that there are three hoses to the car, two on the front and one to the center fitting of the pump. Remove the clamps to these three hoses and using three fine wine corks reclamp the hoses. Not much coolant will be lost. Remove and set aside the solenoid assembly. Next, disconnect the brake fluid reservoir cover and using a turkey baster, remove all of the brake fluid. Remove the reservoir by gently rocking it back and forth (I had to pull pretty hard on mine). US spec 6-speeds have an extra blue hose off the back of the reservoir to supply hydraulic fluid to the clutch master cylinder. NEVER drip brake fluid on paint, it removes it. If you drip some on a painted surface, thoroughly wash down the spot immediately (I keep a wet rag handy because its hard not to drip). Now, step back and look at what is left, inside and outside the car. Rest for a bit. Outside there is the master cylinder and booster assembly about 18 inches long in total. Inside (using a good flashlight), you will see three 13mm nuts that hold the booster to the firewall and perhaps the fourth one on the upper left. That one is the most difficult to get at. This is where the 13mm flex wrench comes in. Also figure out the clip that holds the clevis pin in place on the brake pedal.
5) Take a look at what you need to do outside: there are two brake lines mounted to the side of the brake master cylinder (11mm) and one high pressure and one low pressure Pentosin lines mounted to the top of the brake booster (17mm). All of these need to be removed in order to get the assembly free. For me the most difficult one was the high pressure 17mm flare fitting on the booster. That is where I had to use the SnapOn crowfoot flare wrench with an 8" extension. Remove the 4 nuts inside and the fittings in the engine compartment and you can remove the assembly. There is also a plastic cable holder on the side of the master cylinder. Disconnect anything else that gets in the way. I used some hanger wires as retractors to pull hoses and cables out of the way.
Repair:
Keep everything very clean using clean towels and rags, this is your brake system. On work bench remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the booster. Mine were held in place with LocTite so I had to use a flare wrench to remove them. There is a small ratcheting screw on the bottom front of the booster. With a rag to catch the oil and spring, remove this screw carefully. The spring has a lot of tension so be careful when you release the small screw. Keep track of the orientation of the inside parts. The offending O-ring is held in place by a big washer, so simply replace it with the one from NAPA, clean everything and reassemble. Putting the spring and cap assembly back in the booster is a bit tricky but the little retaining screw can be partly threaded in. Make sure that screw goes into the slot in the plastic cap and that the pushrod seats properly.
This is a perfect time to replace the spark plugs on bank 7-12. I did because it is the "only way to get to plugs 11 & 12." Take my advice and do this now, you will never regret it. 12 plugs at $1.80 each.
Bleed the brakes after assembly and also the Pentosin system using the Pentosin bleeder valve on the bracket with the pressure regulator (850s only). Do this one with the 11mm and 14mm flare wrenches and the engine running. Very easy.
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from e31faq.com
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Tom (Wuffer) Carter 12 01 2004
Ah…the infamous Illumination Strip/Ribbon Light/Front Marker Light Assembly!
Probably one of the simplest items to remove on your car either to replace a damaged assembly, upgrade to the “Euro smoked” style or just to replace a burned out bulb.All you need is a medium Philips Head screwdriver….and some luck.
First grasp the Air inlet grille (51 13 1 940 907 – left or 51 13 1 940 908 – right) as close to the kidney grill as you can and pull straight toward you. It is held in place with two plastic tabs on each end, which hopefully, will “pop” out without breaking.Now that the inlet grille has been removed, visible on the inside edge of the ribbon light are 4 screws. The top and bottom screw attach the ribbon light to the car. The middle two screws are for aiming adjustment of the flash-to pass light.
Remove the top and bottom screws.
Once screws have been removed, grasp the light at its edge and gently pull it towards you. It will swing outwards as if hinged at the other side.
As you are pivoting the light assembly outward, you will feel some resistance caused by the light’s wiring harness which is attached by means of a rather large clip to the back of the assembly behind the FTP portion of the assembly.
Release the harness by gently pulling it out of it’s clip while continuing to pull the light assembly from the car. The opposite end of the assembly is held in place by two plastic pins that slide into the fender. There is no fastening hardware so the assembly, still attached to its harness, will slide right out.
The harness may now be disconnected from the assembly by grasping both sides of the connector and unscrewing it
Remove the light assembly to a suitable work area.
To replace/access the FTP bulb, the cover on the back of the assembly must be carefully removed. This part is plastic and may break easily due to its age and exposure to the elements. Gently pry up on the two locking tabs to release them. Repeat on the opposite side. This cover has a rubber seal to prevent moisture from entering the assembly. It is an expensive part to replace so be very gentle when prying up on the 4 locking tabs to avoid breakage.
When all clips are released, remove the cover. Bulb is now accessible.
Re-installation is simple. Slide the two plastic pins into the appropriate holes om the fender, re-connect the harness (it’s idiot-proof so don’t worry) , place the harness connector back into its clip and gently slide the assembly back into position. Re-install the two screws removed earlier and clip the inlet grille back into place (it only goes in one way. With luck, you will have been successful without breaking any of the fragile plastic bits.
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from e31faq.com
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Special thanks to Mark R. and Marty for the removal tips and their pillar photos, respectively.
Tools needed: Torx 15 driver
Flexible shafted screwdriver
Phillips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Plastic Putty knife
Envelopes or plastic bags for storing and labeling hardware/screws
One, or preferably two, helper(s) (in my case it was my teenage children who were recruited)
Parts used (plug: great pricing from Dave Belknap at Gault):
1 headliner
1 passenger side c-pillar cover (optional)
1 driver side c-pillar cover (optional)
1 passenger side a-pillar cover (optional)
1 driver side a-pillar cover (optional)
16 sunroof perimeter clips
10 pillar cover insert clips (you could probably use the old ones)Raise the sunroof and feel behind floating liner for the long metal rods running parallel to the side edges. Push these outwards gently to disengage the clips and allowing you to push the floating panel backwards until you can see all three torx bolts on either side of metal sunroof panel mount. Unscrew the 3 torx bolts on each side and lift the rear edge of sunroof panel upwards and back to pull front insert “inverted T” out of its spring clip. Set the panel aside.
Pull the floating felt headliner forward again until it snaps back into its clips. Remove rear torx bolt (longer) from cable cover. Next, lower the roof rails by pressing the sunroof switch forward (closed) position. Now push sunroof switch backwards in the fully opened (not raised) position. This will retract the rails and the floating felt inner sunroof panel fully into the roof cavity Unscrew the other exposed torx screws from both sides, and remove the fixed rail cover to expose side sunroof/headliner clips. With a flathead screwdriver push the retaining tabs on the clips outward and down to disengage them all around the sunroof opening. There are 5 on the front and back of the opening, and 3 on each of the sides, 16 in all.
Remove the sunroof motor cover by inserting a putty knife (or fingernails) in the rear edge and pushing forward while pulling gently downward. Tabs are on the rear and sides with a engagement lip at the forward edge. Unclip keyed switch connector. Set aside.
Remove light panel by reaching behind it and pushing down on the right side and walk it out of it’s mount. Unclip the white keyed connector. Set aside light panel. Switch for center light should be on left side on reinstall.Remove passenger “Oh Sh*t” handle by inserting a flat blade screwdriver at mount seam at either end of handle and pushing mount cover outwards and pulling cover off. Then unscrew Phillips screws. Work handle out of headliner and set aside.
Remove the visor holder mounts, torx screws, be careful pulling out since there is a wire attached to each. Remove the visor swivel mounts, they also have a wire attached.
Remove the visor light panel by working out of headliner with fingernails or putty knife. Socket for connector is facing you on reinstallation.
Remove coat hanger hooks by inserting flathead screwdriver at top edge of screw cover and popping it open. Remove the Phillips head screws and set them aside.
pasted-from-clipboard.pngRemove all the pillar covers by grasping at the inner and outer edges (with two people if possible, one at the top of the cover, and one at the bottom) and squeezing the pillar covers inward (slightly bowing them) while working them off slowly. Perhaps you can do it without breaking the insertion tabs, but mine were EXTREMELY tightly wedged in the mounting clips and the plastic was somewhat brittle. Many of the clips broke on the c-pillar covers, and the a-pillar covers single tabs broke. I had purchased the pillar covers so I was not totally concerned with removing them intact. Perhaps with great care and slowly working them out it could have been done without damaging the tabs, but I have my doubts on my build date of August ’91 car. The plastic gets a little brittle after 13 years. The c pillar cover has four clip engaged tabs that point downward and three tabs along the window edge that fit into the three metal rectangles. See the pics below of the cpillar cover and the cpillar for a better visualization. The trick is to disengage the three tabs from the metal rectangles by bowing the pillar cover and then working upward and out slowly to disengage the four inserts without breaking the tabs that fit into the VERY tight clips.
In my case, I had to also remove the inner cell phone antenna mount. This was attached with double-sided tape, and I just pulled it off by twisting and pulling it. It was right up against the rear edge of the headliner, which must move backward about an inch to disengage from the rear mounting lip, so the mount had to come off. Radio Shack had 3M double-sided temperature resistant double-sided foam tape for reinstallation of the antenna mount. After cleaning the glass and the antenna mount, reinstall was easy. Getting all the old foam tape off was somewhat of a pain though.
The felt door-liner gaskets work as supports for the side edges of the headliner. In order to free the headliner from under the gasket, you can either pull the felt gasket from its slot, starting just in front of the coat hanger holes, or you can work the sunroof out of the gasket by pushing down on it while using the putty knife to peel back the gasket while pulling the headliner out from under the lip of the gasket. If you decide to pull out the gasket, it is best to leave it connected at either end so that you don’t have to stretch it to get it to run the full length of the door opening. By pulling out and down from the middle and leaving the ends connected you avoid having a “gap” at either end after reinserting it and not stretching it enough during re-install.
With all windows open, pull headliner down and free it to where the only thing holding it in is the rear lip. Sitting in car, grasp it at rear of sunroof opening and push it backwards to disengage rear lip. Then have helper maneuver it out of the car through the open windows. Set aside in a safe place, especially if you are going to recover the sunroof sliding felt panel. I used a product called SOF SOLE to clean off the old foam and glue on the back of the headliner fabric and the sliding sunroof cover after peeling them off. Then I washed the old headliner fabric in the washing machine on gentle cycle, warm water, and then let it air dry. Looked brand new. Then I cut it to match the old fabric that I had peeled off the floating liner, and used automotive grade spray carpet/fabric glue to glue it on. The trick is to just spray on enough glue for good adhesion without soaking the fabric. You might want to try it with the old fabric off the floating liner by gluing it to some cardboard, etc. first to see the proper amount. I didn’t remove the floating liner until the headliner was installed and I had the surnroof mounts in the raised position. See my notes later on that.
Install sunroof mount clips on the new headliner with small lip facing inwards towards the sunroof opening, and the larger engagement lip facing away from the sunroof opening.
On my car, I did not need to cut a hole for the light-sensing wire running from the rearview mirror, but from what Mark R. told me about his 8, you may need to do this on your car. Check this after the old headliner is out and use it as a template for where you need to cut if yours has a slot there. An Exacto knife would probably work best. You will also need to cut holes for the “Oh sh*t” handle before installation. I used the Exacto knife to do this, and cut the square hole just a tiny bit smaller than needed to make sure the insert was a tight fit. The new headliner should have a stencil on the backside showing where the cut needs to be made. Be careful, since on mine there were stencil marks on both the passenger and driver’s side, so be sure to just cut the passenger side openings for the handle. The coat hanger hooks’ holes were already cut. You might want to gently bend the rear engagement lip out a little bit along it’s entire edge to make it easier to engage the rear lip running along the top rear of the back window. I didn’t on first try, and found it to be a real pain to get it to engage the lip, so I pulled it back out of the car and bent the lip out a little to make a wider “engagement slot”.
With your helper or helpers outside the car, and you sitting in the car, position the new headliner in the car above your head and pull the wires through the openings for the visors, visor lights, and sunroof motor at this time. Now, have the helper(s) push up on the rear edge of the headliner by reaching inside the car, at the same time you should pull it forward to engage it into the rear lip. Using a bright light source (or sunlight if during the day) your helpers should be able to see that it has engaged evenly along the rear edge, and the sunroof clips should now line up evenly all around the sunroof perimeter. If you have chosen not to pull out the felt gasket, peel it back and push the headliner under it all along the sides while your helpers hold it up from the sides. If you have pulled the gasket out as I did, just slide the lip of the gasket into its slot and push into place starting at either ends in an alternating fashion and working towards the middle at about a foot at a time. I used the heal of my palm to gently “bang” it fully into place. Now push the sunroof clips into their slots. If they are all lined up correctly, then pushing up on the perimeter of the headliner’s sunroof opening will fully engage the clips all the way around. Mine all snapped into place easily. Your helpers are now no longer needed.
Reinstall the visor’s hardware and light panel and all associated electrical connections as well as the coat hanger hooks and the passenger OhSh*t handle. Engage the a-pillar metal tabs inside the long plastic inner edge of the a-pillar cover by squeezing it while pushing it into place and insuring the single tab goes into the clip. The felt gasket holds it into place on the outer edge.
Engage the c-pillar covers by squeezing them and inserting the edge clips (see picture) and pushing the 4 plastic tabs into the 4 rectangular clip holes. I did this WITHOUT using the metal clips since it is held in place by tension after it is no longer being squeezed, and by foregoing the metal clips I should be able to remove the c-pillar covers in the future without breaking the tabs. Replace the cpillar lights.
Replace the sunroof cable cover. The torx screws had evidence of loctite on them, but with how often I remove mine, I didn’t use any. I tightened them down until they were well seated and then did one quarter turn to torque them down fully. Close the sunroof. Be sure the tab and notch line up as per the repair manual. Now use the switch to put the sunroof in the “raised” position. Now, release the floating felt panel again by pushing the metal rods outward, and slide it back out of the way so that you can see along the entire edge of the sunroof bracket. If you are going to recover the floating liner with the fabric off of your old headliner, you will need to push the floating liner towards the front (while lifting on the drive cable/gate that holds it usually. Remove the front torq bolt and lift up the front gently on both sides and remove the floating liner by working it out. When reinstalling it, just do the opposite and be sure that you reengage it to the gate (see section 54 of the repair manual if you have it for specifics). Be sure to reinstall the torx bolts when done. Also be sure the “bore and notch” line up before you put the metal sunroof back on.Insert the inverted metal “T” under the metal spring clip on the sunroof bracket, and make sure the metal sunroof screw holes are lined up with the bracket screw holes on each side. Tighten the front torx bolts fairly tightly, and and the other two fairly loosly, but tight enough to hold the sunroof (barely). Close the sunroof to see if the sunroof lines up with the roof of the car. If not, then align it by pushing down or up on the sunroof gently until even. Put in raised position and tighten torx bolts fully. Close again to check alignment. Redo procedure if needed to align. In raised position, pull sliding felt panel forward until it clips into place. Test sunroof by opening, closing, and raising.
You’re done. Have a beer or two or three.
Before:
After:
The “wrinkles” you see above the driver’s side were impressions from the protective plastic sheet pressed against the fabric during shipping, and have disappeared since install.
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from e31faq.com
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from e31faq.com
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Review all slides before starting work. It’s best to wear some sort of latex gloves, as the black wrapping on the electrical wiring harnesses in the roof is quite sticky and will absolutely ruin your new headliner. Change the gloves often.
These are not step by step instructions, they are only graphic aides to help you foresee trouble areas and avoid pitfalls.
I purchased my headliner and clips from Dave Belknap at Gault Auto Sport. He had the best price and delivery off all the internet stores and BMW dealers. (800) 428-1390
1. Remove all interior hardware from the headliner
- Sun visors
- Grab handles
- Sunroof motor cover
- Vanity lights behind the sun visors
- Coat hanger hooks
2. Remove the weather stripping from each side of the car, from the very back of the back side windows to the very front of the car. Each one is one contiguous piece, so once you get one of the ends loose, just pull it off. I think it’s best to start at the front and pull towards the rear
3. Pull back the A & C pillar moldings. Look at slide 8 to see the passenger side A pillar molding pulled away. You do not have to remove them, just pull the top part away from its mounting points to facilitate headliner removal.
4. Open the sun roof all the way and remove the four black torx screws that fasten the right and left black painted metal tracks to the car. You can see them as you’re standing outside the car looking into the sun roof cavity. Slide 9 shows them already removed. You’ll get the three most forward screws easily enough, but the rear most screw will take a bit of work as you contort your small screwdriver somewhat under the sunroof panel and just engage enough of the torx driver into the screw head to turn it loose, Careful here, you don’t want to ruin the sunroof weather stripping.
5. Once these tracks are removed, you’ll see the brass colored clips through the rectangular holes (slide 9) and can use a small flat bladed screwdriver to “unsnap” them. The headliner will pop down a bit more with each clip you unsnap. There are a total of 14. Don’t be surprised if some are already broken and have some on hand as you’ll break a few yourself (one way or another). It’s best to simply plan on replacing them all.
6. Once you’ve got all 14 unsnapped, the only thing holding the headliner up will be the rear lip just above the rear window and maybe the rear view mirror.
7. Go get another person to help you at this point. It’s really light duty work but is better suited for two people due to the size of the headliner. Push the headliner backwards towards the back of the car which will disconnect it from the rear lip. Pull the rear of it downward until you see that it is free and clear of the rear lip.
8. Now, without bending or otherwise damaging the A & C pillar moldings, finagle the headliner out of the car. It’s pretty easy.
9. Now it’s time to carefully inspect the clips to see how many are broken or are ready to break. Play it safe and order a handful before attempting to install the new headliner.
10. Inspect the inside roof of the car to be sure the water channels are secure, no signs of every having any leaks, the wiring looks ok, etc,etc,etc.
11. Install the new headliner in reverse order. Be sure to make the proper cut outs for the grab handle, rear coat hanger hooks and the semicircular cutout for the rear view mirror in the new headliner before installing it.
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from e31faq.com
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1. Sit in Drivers Seat
2. Turn the igntion to the "on" position - do not start the car.
3. Immediately depress the accelerator fully and release fully 5 times in quick succession.
4. Wait a couple of seconds.
5. The Check Engine light will flash once - then start to blink.
a. All codes are comprised of 4 digits.
b. The number of blinks corresponds to the fault code.
c. For example, ON, pause, ON ON, pause, ON ON, pause, ON ON, off would be 1222.
6. Each four digit code will be flashed sequentially. a. When the codes start to repeat, all stored codes have been displayed.
7. Turn the ignition Off.
BMW E31 Diagnostic Flash Codes
Note: DME version M5.2 (OBD-II) under validation; will post when completed.
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from e31faq.com
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pdf file from e31faq.com
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Reconditioning BMW 750il throttle assemblies
My 1990 BMW 750il was not idling well, and I was starting to get "EML" errors on
startup. The "EML" light would stay on when I started the car, and the engine
would run in "limp home" mode. If I turned off the ignition, the subsequent
start would usually be ok. My penske reader would not return a fault code, but
the more sophisticated one at my mechanic would return an error code for the
throttle.
Great. These little babies cost $900 new, and are supposed to be unmaintainable.
But I found some used throttle assemblies on E-Bay cheap, and
since I naturally have to take things apart on my own anyway, I dove in.
The bottom line is that the throttles are easy to take apart, and very easy to
recondition. The results were dramatic -- my engine now idles like a sewing
machine, and runs smoother across the whole rev range. And NO "EML" errors!
The following details my exploration into the secrets of the BMW throttle.
The first Photo is of the throttle location in the engine compartment. The left
side of the engine is shown, but there are two of these guys on the V-12
engine. By the way, even though this is a picture of what I call the LEFT side of
the engine, the intake shown is the RIGHT intake assembly, this being because
the intake to the RIGHT side heads cross over the middle of the engine.
The removal of the throttle assembly is very easy. Remove the airbox cover and
the connecting hose to the MAF (mass airflow sensor). Disconnect the MAF and
remove it and the hose to the Throttle assembly, making sure to remove the
check valve from the hose.
There are four 6mm (10mm wrench size) bolts holding the throttle assembly
on, with the bottom two being easier to remove with a universal joint on your
socket set.
You may want to test the throttle before you take it apart. The electrical
connector has the pins labeled, and to make the throttle valve fully open, you
need about four volts across pins 3 and 5 at 2.5 amperes.
I happen to have a bench power supply that will let me run the throttle, but if
you don't have such an animal, don't despair. Just run to radio shack and get a
2.4 ohm, 25watt wirewound resistor, part number 900-1284. Now you can use
your car battery to run the throttle. Connect the negative terminal of the
battery to pin 5 of the throttle connector, and the positive terminal of the
battery to pin 3 of the connector THROUGH the 2.4 ohm resistor. CAREFUL --
the resistor will get very hot!! I would not recommend leaving the battery
hooked up for very long. But you should see the throttle valve rotate slowly to
full open when you attach the power. Remove the battery connection and the
valve should slowly rotate back to fully closed. On all four throttles that I
looked at, before cleaning, the throttle valve would stick at some point in the
closing process. I'm sure this is the root of most of the throttle problems, and is
a good reason in my mind to clean the throttles. I should mention that the 1988
throttles I opened were reported to have 88K miles on them, and the 1990
throttles had 105K miles.
You might also at this point want to measure the output of the throttle position
encoder, to see if you need to work on that. Appendix A gives my
measurements for the encoder output on my four throttles. I don't know what
the absolute BMW spec is on the encoder, but I'm sure that these values are in
the ballpark.
Take the throttle back to your bench, and remove the six phillips head screws
holding the motor housing to the throttle body. On both the 1988 and 1990
throttles I worked on these screws are normal phillips head screws; I have
heard that some have "tamper proof" screws here. If so, you could file a slot in
them to remove, or you could check with the McMaster- Carr company,
http://WWW.mcmaster.com, for a screwdriver to fit the head.
Removing the motor housing will take a little pulling, because the magnets on
the motor housing will pull on the motor armature. If at all possible leave the
motor armature in the throttle as you pull off the housing; this will prevent
possible damage to the motor brushes as you remove the armature. Push back
the brushes from the commutator before you remove the motor armature.
Once you get the housing off, you will see the guts of the motor and encoder
assembly. You can now remove the motor brush and encoder wheel housing by
removing the three phillips head screws shown.
Let’s spruce up the motor armature first. The main cleaning job here is to
clean the commutator, the copper area where the armature windings get their
electricity from the motor brushes. Using some #0000 steel wool, polish the
commutator AROUND parallel to the brush marks already there. You could also
GENTLY clamp the armature in a vise (use a rag or other soft material to pad
the vise jaws) and use #600 or #1500 sandpaper to clean the contacts.
Remove the brush dust that has collected between the commutator contacts
with the back side of knife blade.
Make sure that you leave no steel wool bits on the commutator or in the
armature!
Set the armature aside for now. The next step is to clean the motor brushes
and brush/encoder housing. Wipe it down with a clean rag, and run the brushes
back and forth in their grooves. If the faces of the brush contacts have worn to
the point that there are no grooves left, you might want to remove the brushes
entirely and carefully re-groove them with three parallel grooves, matching the
pattern that has worn into the commutator. Frankly, this is probably not
needed, however; it is so easy to remove the throttle and take it apart that
you could just leave them and repeat the cleaning more often.
The back side of the brush/encoder housing has the throttle position encoding
wheel on it. The wiper assembly is connected to the end of the throttle valve
shaft, and as the shaft turns the wipers slide along the encoder wheel. The
wheel stripes are made of a material that varies in resistance per length; the
whole thing produces a "volume control" that tells the main computer what the
throttle opening is.
All the throttles that I opened had no problem in this area; I could see some
problems arising if the encoder wheel had cracked, or if the wiper contacts had
worn away the encoder wheel stripes. Appendix A has my measurements of the
encoder output.
At this point it is a good idea to clean the throttle valve and surrounding area
with carburetor cleaner. DON'T use cleaner on the brushes, encoder wheel or
wiper area. Just clean the throttle butterfly valve and venturi.
For the first couple of throttles I looked at this was as far as I went. For one of
my throttles, however, I continued on because it still was sticky after cleaning
just the top.
To remove the brush/encoder housing carrier, take off the four #30 Torx
screws. You will need to GENTLY pry off the wiper contacts from the throttle
valve shaft – this is a press fit NOTE -- mark the position of the wiper contacts
on the shaft carefully -- you will have to reposition it to the same place when
you re-assembly it.
Remove the two slotted-head screws shown to remove the gearbox cover and
gently pry the cover off.
You have now exposed the lower geartrain, which transmits the rotation of the
motor armature to the throttle valve. On the throttle in question, there was an
area of rust where the pinion gear touched the throttle valve gear at rest --
this was the cause of my sticking.
I cleaned the area with solvent and re-greased the gears.
Re-assemble the throttle unit back to the following stage:
Note the position of the encoder wiper.
Before re-attaching the brush/encoder housing, gently push the motor brushes
back in their slots until the springs are running on the side of the brushes,
instead of the backs:
Now re-attach the brush/encoder housing to the main unit. We retracted the
brushes so that re-installing the motor armature would be easier, and won't
break the motor brushes.
SPARINGLY grease the motor armature shaft. It is VERY IMPORTANT that no
grease gets on the motor commutator. Use as little grease on both shaft
bearing areas as possible, leaving just enough to do the job but not so much as
to run all over and contaminate the comutator.
Re-install the motor armature, and push the motor brushes toward the
commutator until they touch the commutator and the springs engage the rear
of the brush.
Re-install the motor housing, keeping in mind that the magnets on the housing
will try to pull the motor armature out of the throttle body.
Now we can re-test the throttle operation as before. If you have succeeded,
the operation of the throttle valve will be noticeably smoother, and the
throttle valve should not stick open when power is removed.
Note that after re-installation on the car, you will have to re-initialize the
throttles. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery of your car for
at least one hour. This will clear the memory of your main computer. Then reconnect
the battery, and start the car without touching the throttle. Allow to
warm to normal operating temperature. Now, with the car in first gear,
accelerate until at least 5000 rpm is reached. Allow the car to slow to idle, and
then repeat two more times. Let the car idle for 5 minutes. All Done!.
APPENDIX A
Throttle Encoder Measurements
Throttle Resistance between pin numbers: 6 and 8
1988 Left: @ idle (closed) : 2093 ohms @ full (open): 1193 ohms
1988 Right @ idle (closed) : 2133 ohms @ full (open): 1168 ohms
1990 Left @ idle (closed) : 2017 ohms @ full (open): 1063 ohms
1990 Right: @ idle (closed) : 2065 ohms @ full (open): 1087 ohms
Message Title: More on DK recon
Posted by: rick8637 on 2002-03-27 at 09:02:47
(posted from: Host: termq25.greennet.net IP: 208.192.5.29)
Message:
Great post on the complete reconditioning of the DK motor assembly. This does lend credence to
the earlier post from the mechanic who discovered the procedure of sliding the motor back 1/4
and spraying the comutator and encoder assembly with contact cleaner was successful in
returning proper operation. This procedure is non invasive and fast. I'm wondering if anyone has
tried this and what cleaner they would recommend.
Altho the procedure does not recommend cleaners on the brushes I have used cleaners liberally
on elec motors with no adverse effects.Regardless, if anyone is facing replacement of these units
($$) this is a major savings and definitely worth a shot.
Rick...91 850
Posted by: Steve Cohen on 2002-03-25 at 21:41:42
(posted from: Host: spider-ntc-tc034.proxy.aol.com IP: 198.81.17.34)
Message:
using emory cloth. less residue and no chance of leaving strands of steel wool in the commutator.
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