Beiträge von TerryY

If all else fails--pull a pressure hose off of the fuel injection rail and add enough hose to it to reach the container you want to pump the fuel into. Then put power to the pump with a jumper wire and watch it flow.

I have used this while storing several different cars.

http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx#stabil

My old pickup has run on 2 year old gas after using it.

There seem to be Australian dealers but nothing for Europe that I saw. Something like it should be available though.

Probably would help to listen with the bonnet open and you listening from both sides and the front to help locate it a bit more
Check that the dipstick is seated and the oil fill cap is tight.

Also watch the belt tensioners for wobble.

The manual transmission version has a Jumper in place of the starter relay in the front fusebox.
Don't remember the relay number though. I seem to remember it is in the back row of relays though.

There is a ZF repair kit for the valve body that fixes the no reverse problem.

IIRC the plastic valve ball wears smaller and is sucked into the valve body blocking reverse engagement. The kit has everything required to fix the problem and is a lot cheaper than replacing the transmission.

Looks good to me

I believe it is a 32mm nut (36 if I am wrong) and it is a wrong handed thread--clockwise to loosen.

Mine was for about 5 years until I retired. Now most of my driving is taking my wife to work and she prefers riding in the Range Rover.
Says she is much happier looking over the rest of the world rather than watching lugnuts go around next to her.

I just used one of these to refill the transfer case on my rover.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DELUXE…1B950F4/ref=pd_rhf_shvl_3

drilled a close fitting hole in the container top and pushed the hose in to make it more stable and spill proof.

But with it in you might actually be able to sell it more easily on performance.

The US 850 has 3.64 gears and new owners always ask what they can to to make it go better so that it feels like it looks.

I seem to remember it being stated that at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) the controller goes open loop again. That it has a hard coded map for WOT and the O2 sensors are ignored.

So running down the road the system is closed loop after it warms up but reverts to open loop at full throttle such as on a dyno.

Don't remember exactly what device it triggers on --switch under the pedal or computer signals.

Looks good

If it is the old torque converter it should have enough fluid left to spin the front pump and refill itself.

Have you let it idle in Neutral for a few minutes? If the transmission is like many I have seen it won't pump fluid while in Park until after it had been in a gear or Neutral first. This happens on each start up. Revving it a bit to 2000 rpm might speed it up a bit too.

I have found this forum to be the most peaceful of the 8 forums.

The American forums seem to have periodic eruptions that break them down for a while and then they build back up. Funny part is it seems to involve some of the same people every time.

Our only internal model rivalry seems to be 8 or 12 oriented and that is pretty quiet here.

Thanks for the vote of confidence on our civilized manner

The fuel pump runs for 3 seconds pre-start. If the computer doesn't see all of the sensors for camshaft (on the plug wires) and crank shaft it will not turn the fuel pumps on again after start.

I would suspect sensors not plugged in or plugged in incorrectly first.

And it is a bit of a drive for some of us:) The big damp spot in the middle doesn't help either

Welcome to the club. I think that you picked the best of the 8 Seroes cars but then I am prejudiced

I have spent very little on my 840 in the years that I have had it other than tires and toys.

You will need to schedule some good runs to keep the batteries charged and the oil free of condensation if you only have a 2 mile commute.

Yes-most the capacitors in the E31 were moved from the instrument cluster to the general module. The problem seems to take a bit longer to show up than it did in the E32 but it is there nonetheless.

I have seen a DIY but don't remember exactly where. Mind is slipping.

As a long ago street racer who has always been autobahn deprived, Gearing is everything.

My Mustang Cobra has 3.73 gears with a 5 speed and it is designed mostly for the street. They claim 153 as a top speed but I would be far less likely to try it than in the 840.

The lower gears (higher numerically) are better for transmitting torque to the wheels--they are Multipliers

The current fad of rev limiter launches doesn't seem to me to be more than a plan to sell more parts. I won't argue the point but high rev launching the weight of an 8 would seem to be one hell of a stress on a drive line tailored for speed. But then again my 9 second '56 Chevy would have ripped the driveshaft into tinfoil chaff launching that way. So would several of my other toys of the day.

If you live in the open and free fast is nice but if you live with traffic lights and cameras Quicker is better.

Older now and just happy to feel gratifying acceleration when driving off from a traffic light now and again. So 3.64 behind a 5 speed auto in the 840 is good enough and the Cobra is there when I need to feel real go power.

When (if?) I finally get around to putting the 6 speed in the 840 it will keep the 3.64 gears and may even get louder too

I seem to remember seeing an article on replacing the capacitors in the general module to fix this problem.

I think that our cars are falling into the failing large capacitor stage that the E32 has been going thru for years. Theirs were concentrated in the instrument cluster.