Beiträge von TerryY

Really soft sound from the speakers could also mean that the speaker level outputs from the head unit are not connected to the amp.

If the head unit preamp outputs are connected to the amp you will get very low level sound from the speakers.

Let me take a crack at this one

1. BMW like all manufacturers builds "Compromise" vehicles. So by definition every vehicle starts out as Suboptimal for any given conditions. But they are Servicable for All designed conditions.

Only specific purpose vehicles like race cars are designed as Optimal vehicles for specific circumstances and there is still modification to those for specific tracks and conditions.

With BMW the large heavy cars are sold to drive well under varying conditions but the steering geometry that makes them comfortable for the "normal" driver is less than optimal for tire wear and sporty steering response.

Adding camber improves both the steering response and reduces the outer edge tire wear. Wear is improved because the total inertial weight of the car is distributed across the tire tread with less concentration on the dug in outer edge. Response and handling are improved by having the weight more evenly distributed and the increase in tire traction that comes with more contact with the road.

2. The standard/factory correct angle if I remember right is a maximum of about -.5 degrees of camber (top of the wheel in) and minimum is ~0 degrees.

Experimentation over the years and various BMW models with similar suspension geometry has determined that the "Ideal" angle is -1.5 degrees for mostly sporty Road use. This is prior to the point where the extremest tire wear moves to the inside of the tire and street handling is adversely affected.

Most static plates including Gerrys are set at -1.5 degrees. The K-Mac variables are adjustable out to -3 or more degrees but have moving parts and more potential for error or failure.

I hope that was of help

I don't remember exactly how long it takes but it is more than 1 hour for a reset. I am thinking 3 but don't remember for sure.

Check the Pitman arm on bottom of the steering gearbox while you are under there. Several have been found loose on the shaft and one broke in the US.

A rubber pad under the H&R spring will lift the rear without incurring too much wrath. A 3/8" pad will lift the rear approximately 1/2".

Don't forget to replace or cut off the bump stops on the rear shock absorber shaft. Stock is two lumps. Any lowering springs require one lump stops--CSi version is one lump if you need something certifiable. Otherwise cutting off the top foam rubber lump makes the same thing as the CSi one.

On my 840 the transmission ECU is the front one in the E-box under the hood on what would be the drivers side on an RHD. Location is shown as in the trunk but it isn't.

Open the latch and lift the connector out of contact with the ECU. Plug it back in in a few minutes. There is a pivot arrangement on the far side of the connector so watch how the connector comes out.

Do the instruments work in self test mode? Press the trip reset and turn on the ignition to do the test. All of the needles should cycle to full scale.

The easy non computerized way to check is to remove the Oil filler cap and look down at the cam drive chain.

If it is double row it is an M60 and if single row it is an M62.

Be prepared for some idiot in a position of power to propose mandatory scrapping of all cars more than 10 years old. Dirty old things

It was actually heading for a vote in California many years ago. It was pushed by the Air quality people to rid California of old smokers. You can imagine the reaction of the hot rodders.

I would be in trouble because my newest is a 2000 and would be up for crushing in a year. Funny part is that it is a California certified Low Emissions Vehicle that couldn't be a smoker with all the testing done here. Now for the snicker--it is a Range Rover Vitesse 4.6

None of the idiots are ready to let logic destroy their feel good moments of glory so hope for the best but expect the worst

Zitat von Algernon;63141

I have a problem that is almost the same.

Tachometer will jump in one spot constantly, just below ~140km/h the revs will jump up and down 500rpm with just couple of kilometer change...
Constant and repeatable.

Should I start to look at the capacitors inside the cluster?

In the 8 Series the capacitors are in the general module under the dash rather than in the cluster like on the E32. Same problem but different place.

If they go off after the ignition on self test but come on while moving I would suspect the wheel sensors.

It may be fine metal particles in the differential clumped on the speed sensor and then fell off or moved out of the way. Oil should have been nice and warm then.

I would not worry unless it happens again. No battery in the E31 cluster.

Check the connector of the sump sensor for water and tightness.

There is no way to reset those pesky MID messages.

#1 is the expansion tank itself but be sure to buy 2 or 3 of #3 the bleed screw.

They become brittle with age and the chances of breaking the head off when bleeding the system are measurable. Toss the spare in the car somewhere you can find it again for good luck.

I will second checking the level.
If it is leaking from under the lid of the reservoir it is overfull. Sealing the lid tight only masks the symptom for a while.

The hose connections leak on all of these cars. some just need clamps on the return hoses and some need new pressure side hoses.

What type of spark plugs ?

I keep hearing of Platinum Bosch plugs misfiring under load.

IIRC the original video had two guys holding a remote "Test" unit with a cable leading into the boot to run the system.

The passenger window is probably a microswitch in the door misbehaving.

The other problem may be broken wires in the looms from the boot lid to the body. Do you get light out warnings too? Unless what you did in the boot involved other wiring.

If it is a manual transmission there is only a jumper in that position.

That is the relay that enables starting only if the auto transmission is in Neutral or Park. It is controlled by the selector switch on the automatic transmission.

The picture looks as if there is something very short plugged in to that position or I just can't see the normal socket contacts.