Beiträge von Rey

EDC shocks

Hi Rick,

If you still haven't resolved your EDC issue, your best bet is to have a mechanic check out your setup.

EDCs do fade over time or eventually fail and require replacement.

When working properly, you should feel a difference between the "S"port and "K"omfort modes, especially when cornering or going over bumps.

It is also possible, as suggested, that your EDCs were replaced with a non-factory, non-adjustable setup. Many owners went this route when their EDCs failed because they are very expensive to replace. I believe you are looking at around $1,000.00 USD per corner in parts alone -- a little more or less depending on your parts source.

If you can afford the replacements, I have the EDC in my '92 750il, and I think it is very nice to be able adjust the shocks to suit your immediate driving preference. I was fortunate because though my 750 had 130k miles on it when I bought it, the EDC inserts had already been replaced, so I shouldn't have to deal with the costly repair anytime soon, with some luck.

Otherwise, a popular replacement is an H&R Spring/Bilstien insert combination, mentioned above in this thread.

Hope this helps, and best of luck to you.

Hey,

Glad it worked out.

As for my AHK, I got all the replacement gaskets and filters as I'm pretty sure it is a leaky gasket and thought I'd do the filters while I was at it, but I haven't had time to do the job yet.

I am moving cross country in a week and once I've found a new shop where I'm going, I'll see if they can do it. I don't have a garage or a way to lift the car right now, and I don't want excess oil spilling where I park.

Thanks for the follow up!

There used to be several stock replacement units available used or refurbished on German E-Bay. I used to come across them last year when I was shopping.

Apologies if this is already in the handbook, but you want to have your fault codes read out before disconnecting the battery in case there are any present in the system.

Also, you will probably have to re-calibrate your windows and sunroof.

Not sure if you will love any adaptive memory settings (seats, mirrors, dk-motors, throttle, etc.)

I have seen procedures posted on the Roadfly forum explaining how to change batteries without completely losing electrical power, in order to preserve all the settings.

I believe there is also possibly a device available that you can insert into your cigarette lighter socket that will keep some juice in the car while you switch batteries to keep all settings.

Hope this helps and please confirm with others as I'm speaking from vague, second hand memory...

On my vehicle, when filling the headlamp washer tank, once the tank is full, excess fluid will "leak" out from under the spare tire area. This is to prevent the tank from overflowing and is intentional.

Depending upon where the leak is, it may not be a leak, but a preventative excess drain.

Maybe on your model the regular windscreen and intensive windscreen washer fluid containers are joined into one.

Is there a cap for the smaller of the two adjacent containers? If so, try filling this one and see if they both fill up.

The rear container is for the headlamp washers and should not affect the windscreen system.

Let us know how it works out.

I have always been very curious to see what an E39/M5 spoiler would look like on the 8.

I currently have the CSI/M-Technik factory spoiler installed on mine and am very happy with the look.

To the best of my knowledge, the washer fluid opening by the trunk is only for the headlamp washer system. If installed, you will see two small circles in front of each headlamp, and a washer fluid tank located under the black plastic dome under the spare tire in the trunk.

Your windshield washer fluid resevoir should be located under the hood, and there should be two of them. The larger one is for the regular washer fluid, and the smaller for the intensive fluid.

My best guess is that your cap is simply stuck.

Wow...

That's quite a custom setup on that car.

I like having the controls on the steering wheel, and I love what they did with the center arm-rest area (especially being a non-smoker.) I don't like the removal of the driver side center air-vent, for my taste.

Very imaginative modifications.

What does the monitor do? It is not for the GPS as the Becker unit has that built into the stereo head, yes?

JoeyKhan -

If you can afford it, service the car more frequently than every 10,000 miles. With these cars the money you put into preventative maintenance is much less than when it is too late and you have to fix something that's already broken.

I'd recommend oil and oil filter changes every 3-4k mls, Inspection I type service every 30k mls, and Inspection II type service every 60k mls. I would suggest these as conservative minimums.

Just my humble opinion...

John --

I got your e-mail -- thanks very much for the follow up and for your original post. I have not replied yet because I am still waiting for some parts to arrive before I go ahead and attempt to fix the leak.

I have learned there is a BMW Special Tool required to use a pressure release valve in the AHK system that will allow removal of the gasket without spilling oil all over the place. I've been trying to get this tool, but it is backordered with no ETA all the way back to Germany, so I will have to deal with the spilled oil and just top up with Pentosin when I'm done.

I've also decided to replace all four of the filters, since I'm doing the one filter and the gasket. I am pretty sure replacing the gasket will fix my leak, which is really small to begin with, so I am not in a hurry.

Thanks very much for the link to Steve's write up and all the information -- I will post results when I get all the parts and attempt the repair/maintenance.

Sorry to hear about your AHK issue -- there's strength in numbers! Let me know how that turns out. I know of one owner that had a leak dropping water on his AHK control module (the one by the CD changer) and just rusted it all over, and he needed a new one. IIRC, the previous owner had had the rear window replaced at one point, but it was not properly sealed. How nice!

Steffer --

Thanks very much. It is the same model but not the same car as featured in the magazine.

I had this problem myself and was able to fix it.

Let me ask you -- are you able to shift the glove box around in its place? Does it seem loose?

If it is, you will need to adjust the screws that hold the glovebox assembly into place.

If it is not, you likely need to adjust the glove box door mounts so the glovebox door aligns properly and stops rubbing the leather trim panel.

The other possibility is that your leather trim panel is loose or protruding out too far and needs re-adjustment.

If it is the trim panel, sit in the passenger seat and try pushing it further in to make sure it is securely in place. You want to apply pressure towards the top right and top left corners, right underneath where it meets the glove box. Also apply some pressure along the top edge, right in the middle.

Also check to see how your glovebox door lines along the edges up when it is closed. The gap between the edges of the door and the dash and trim panel should be fairly even all the way around, and the edges should all line up.

Let me know how this turns out and if you have more of a sense of which piece is out of alignment.

I have to admit that I like the new 6 very much, especially the convertible. I don't like it nearly as much as the 8, but I also don't see the point in comparing the two, as they are ten years and two model numbers apart.

The new 6 does not look to me like a timeless design like the 8, but then again, we won't know that for sure for another ten years.

In terms of performance and technology, the M6 it looks like it would blow any 8 away (and most anything else on the road) and I like to see BMW still pushing the limits and trying to stay on top.

Yes, I would also highly recommend the BMW Becker Traffic Pro.

It does work in the 8 and perfectly matches the look and color of the instrument panel.

I'll try and dig up the link, but search the forum for "Memorial Run" and you'll see a post from a member named Alpinadvl who posted pictures of his unit installed.

EDIT: Here's the link -- http://www.clube31.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=661

I got mine off of German E-Bay (I think he did, too), but you can also get it from any BMW dealer in Europe, I believe. E-Bay was much cheaper.

I am located in the United States, and I am attempting to purchase a part for my 8 from a breaker in Birmingham.

If I am able to purchase it, and if the breaker is unwilling/unable to ship me the part, is there anyone within convenience of Birmingham who would be willing to help me?

I may be in need of someone's help in arranging the shipping of the unit from the breaker's place of business in Birmingham to my mechanic's shop here in the states.

I would, of course, be more than happy to pay for your time and help.

Thanks very much.

Terry -

Thanks for the KMS link, but I already tried them. 6 month lead time, and they'll only do a group sale of five or more units. That's why I'm hoping I'll have better luck in Europe.

Sniff -

I sent them an e-mail to check availability. Thanks for the link.

I am in the market for a Quaife differential unit for my 8.

Unfortunately, here in the states, there is a lead time of 6 months and there is a minimum order of 5 units.

I am wondering if anyone knows or could find out if these units are more readily available in Europe.

The model number for the unit is 30.309.160

Any help or information with this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Had you considered upgrading to the stock Euro-spec csi brake setup? Parts should be easily available, and that is the most common brake upgrade I've read about in the US for non-euro-spec csi's.

ROLF, LMAO!!!

Man, I can't send that penguin into those first set of spikes enough times!!!

Sooooo much cheaper than therapy...

How do you screen capture? I just got 593 -- missed by .5!!!!