Personally I like a bit of tyre to protect my wheel so I run 285 on a 10.5.
I would imagine a 295 would look sweet on that!!
Alex
Personally I like a bit of tyre to protect my wheel so I run 285 on a 10.5.
I would imagine a 295 would look sweet on that!!
Alex
Crankshaft sensor failing me thinks.... There are 2....
As Tim said... 90% + will do...
Starter runs off one battery and the engine management runs off the other. That is why when you get the dreaded non start or intermittent cut out it is the inline fuse from the right battery....
Both my batteries took almost a week to charge from the front terminals (from flat) so would be quicker singularly with a full charger and not a condition/charger.....
Diff can be done in 1 1/2 hours. Worst bolt is the top one....
Alex
Hey Noggie...
These are so temperamental with a low voltage and take a couple of days to charge both batteries!!
You could either leave it charging on the front terminals for a couple of days or disconnect your batteries and charge individually to make sure they are both fully charged and in good condition....
I would try the latter before replacing anything......
Alex
Well Guy's. Thanks for all the ideas... I searched through my local scrap yard and tool shop to no avail so I came home and welded the bloody thing!!
A little trick I learnt from a guy in Oz about filling holes when welding was to clamp a piece of copper behind. The weld will flow onto it but not stick!!
If you can view this thread, it's fantastic engineering..
http://jeepgarage.org/showthread.php?t=19627
All installed and working a treat!!
Thanks again.
Alex
I would imagine it does Lloyd maybe to absorb a bit when the pad hits it's stop...
It is a fecking PITA to do so I would rather put the same part back in if you know what I mean....
Good idea though....
My last resort will be weld the bits back together
Alex
Yes, I've done that fix. This one is for the extending thigh support!! Whereas the Bowden cable is 12" long on the 'seat twist' This little sod is a direct drive from the motor, through the sensor to the gearset and is approximately 3" in length.... All square as well!!
Hi Guy's.
I'm in the process of fixing the thigh support on my sport seat an am in need of a piece of square drive cable. Has anybody got some spare or know where to get hold of some?
The piece is only about 3" long and looks the same as a speedo drive cable but I think it is larger. 3mm maybe.
Any help appreciated.
Alex
Here's one on the old part number...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-…ts_SM&hash=item1c21440f73
I'll keep a look out.
You could also try Wuffer.net for parts...
Alex
What about Nitrous Gerry? Would the auto box take it? I know they are rated around the 400bhp mark!!
Thanks for the offer, all seems good now. Fingers crossed..
I have Wokke chips Mk1, 3.91 diff, K+N filters and get 6.5 in sport mode.
Happy with that as it gives a few modern lighter cars a run for their money...
I would have thought it cheaper to supercharge or turbo than the hassle of manual conversion.... IMHO
I sent you a PM Noggie but you couldn't have got it... No matter..
Just found an e36 Alpine Amp fits and works a treat....
65 12 1 393 442
FYI
Just found an e36 Alpine Amp fits and works a treat....
65 12 1 393 442
FYI
Well I'll add one I saw a couple of years ago in my local Hotel!!
O.K.
On a hub behind the wheel the face is flat for youre wheel but there is also a step out in the middle which is critical to centreing the wheel. If your wheels have a different centre bore then you need hubcentric rings to make up the difference...
My wifeys car has them of about 6mm we sometimes need them to make up the difference from 72-74mm ish
But when you bring spacers into the equation this brings the flat surface out beyond the centre ring of the hub thus you need spacers with built in center rings for the corresponding size to your wheel center.....
Simples...... EEEEK
Maybe you could use these. They look 72 to 72 and 15mm Which could be machined down to 10 and use longer bolts...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-…ms_ET&hash=item27c82c1782