Beiträge von stuart

    Sure, one of the fellow members on another forum has done all of that and dynoed each stage. He tried headers, midpipes, X pipes (crossover), different sized tubing, straight pipes with no mufflers at all etc, and found that unless the engine was built, the headers added nothing, the x pipe sections added almost nothing, and there was a small bit of hp to be had in the cat back sections. And those were with the best diameters, most of his experiments resulted in a loss of hp.


    In short, the bottelneck to hp in this particular engine is NOT the exhaust.


    I am loosly relating the info from his report, but that's the jist of it. I remember thinking that I wouldn't put anything but a good catback on one of these even if the parts were free. If parts and labor were under $150 I would do the headers only because they would look cool, but no Hp.


    The exhaust ports in the heads have been describes as "Pinto like" I.E. absolutely horrible. The intake ports are decent. I've seen them, even have pics.


    The Hp gain from even the best cat back system is very difficult to notice. The gains all happen from basically 4500 - redline, and most systems make 10 hp or less even at redline. Dinan claims 10 hp at near redline, the top Eisenhaus "race" system claims 8 hp, Rhemus I think is 0 hp. The result being that for my current car I'm thinking of doing the Magnaflows or even just the chrome tips.

    You must have a diferent manual than I do. I was reading straight from it. Actually I have 2 manuals, one for a 1991 and one for a 1992. Both of them as well as the door jam say the same thing.


    Yours being different must hace to do with the tires delivered on the car in Europe.

    Supersprints run $1,280 ish. My last 8 had them. They are nearly if not as quiet as the stock exhaust under throttle, however they emit a beautiful burble at idle. Idling through the parking lot of your favorite car show they are wonderfull. They also make the most hp of any of the aftermarket exhausts.


    If you want more noise, everyone seems to agree Eisenman is the way to go. They have three levels, Race being the top. Don't bother with the other 2.


    If you are on a budget and know a good exhaust shop, try Magnaflow street ovals. Their model 14863 and 14815 will look great, and should sound as good as any. Price about $125 a side. The inlets are however in the center, so your local exhaust shop will have to fabricate a piece of pipe to connect them to your stock exh. They will probably cut your rear section stockers and graft onto those.


    Warning, you will not gain power by replacing the mannifolds with headers and installing full system. Almost certainly you will loose power. I don't know what you had in mind, I saw the whole magilla on the ground so I thought I would mention that.

    Oops mistake, that's 29 ft and 32 rear. (2.0 bar ft and 2.2 bar rear) with 2 passangers, and 30 psi(2.1)bar ft and 36 (2.5) rear with 4 passangers and luggage, Ha ha ha. This according to page 20 of my owners manual. So 2.5 bar is only for the rear when you have 4 passangers and luggage, which doesn't happen often enough to ever alter your tire pressures for.

    P.S. BMW does not suggest 2.5 bar ft and rear. At least not on 1991 and 1992 models of the 850. Both of my 850's clearly state on the drivers door jam 29 psi front (cold) and 31 rear.

    Actually Beammer, changing the sidewall hight does alter the required air pressure. Ideally the tire has the same force to the ground all the way across it's surface. More air pressure increases the pressure at the middle ralative to the edges and visa versa. This is because the sidewalls prevent the edges of the tire from growing in diameter.


    When you change the stiffness of the sidewalls from what the manufacturer intended, the pressures are likely not accurate. When you go from 16" to 18", the sidewalls are much shorter, 1" shorter to be exact. Also as the tires get higher in performance ratings, (Z or ZR to a W) the sidewalls get stiffer.


    We don't have the facilities to know what the correct tire pressures are for the non-factory tire and wheel sizes many of us run, so we have to take an educated guess.


    A way to be more accurate is to inflate to your best guess and then drive the car hard. Stop and immediatly check the tires surface temp at the edges and the middle. If the tire is warmer at the edges, you had too little air pressure when you started out. Hotter in the middle, you had too much. I just use one of those infared digital temp guages with the laser dot, but big time racers will use a pyrometer, which has a small pointed probe that you push into the tread slightly. There are some that have three probes and measure both edges and the middle at the same time.


    In motorcycling, the best way to figure proper tire pressure is to inflate to manufacturer specs, then ride the bike hard down your favorite road. Stop and check the presures. They should have risen 10%. If they rose more than 10%, that tire had too little air pressure when you started off and vica versa. A tire under inflated will work more, (flex more) and get hotter thereby raising the air pressure more. I don't know if this technique can be translated to cars. Personally I don't inflate my tires with air. Air contains moisture and the more moisture a tires air has in it, the more the air expands with heat. You add air to tires on different days, so some have more moisture than others. If you add air at gas stations, some have moisture removers and some don't. You may start off with the correct pressure, but after driving awhile, some of your tires have more pressure than others, (left ft v.s. rt ft, and left rear, v.s. rt rear). I prefer nitrogen from a tank I keep in my garrage.

    40 seems a touch high to me. BMW wants 29 and 32 rear for the stock tires. I* liked to run an extra pound in the fronts. For the wider tires I like about 2 more than that in front and 1-2 more in rear. 32 ft and 33 rear, or 33 and 34.


    John, don't your tires wear out in the middle first?


    I had 245/40, and 275/35/18 Pilots on my last 850, but have the same sizes in Toyo Proxes T1S on my current one. I havn't used the pyrometer after a hard drive yet to check. Just got the car on the road and the brake pads need 500 miles to break in, (2 months).

    40 seems a touch high to me. BMW wants 29 and 32 rear for the stock tires. I* liked to run an extra pound in the fronts. For the wider tires I like about 2 more than that in front and 1-2 more in rear. 32 ft and 33 rear, or 33 and 34.


    John, don't your tires wear out in the middle first?


    I had 245/40, and 275/35/18 Pilots on my last 850, but have the same sizes in Toyo Proxes T1S on my current one. I havn't used the pyrometer after a hard drive yet to check. Just got the car on the road and the brake pads need 500 miles to break in, (2 months).

    Notice the glass is intact. I hit the Neon doing about 40 mph. The engine was killed by the airbag system as it is supposed to. I turned off the ignition, (key was broken off but enough was sticking out to turn it) unbuckled the seat belt and opened the door (which opened easilly) and got out.


    Trunk damage is from police prying it open later at the yard while doing their investigation.


    I had been looking at 928 S4's before buying this car but my dad had been in a horrible accident a year before that and had said I should get myself a car with airbags. The 928's only have an airbag after 1990 or 91 and the ones I was finding that were nice always seemed to be '89's or older.


    My fathers crash was much worse, 70 mph head on. He had a broken foot, cracked ribs, and a damaged artery feeding his heart. He was unconsious for 45 minutes after the accident. His chest looked like he had been spray painted black going at an angle (from seatbelt). The 2 occupants of the other car were not wearing seatbelts and did not have airbags (Grand Am) and both did not survive.


    Booze, no seatbelts and no airbags seem to be real bad ideas. I however don't think seatbelts should be mandatory as I know the government doesn't have the right to protect us from ourselves, but I do think we should eliminate lawsuits by occupants or thier famalies when they are horribly injured or die as a result of not using them.

    I was involved in an accident in my last 8 (a '92) less than a year ago. It is the car in my avatar. The "after" picture is in my gallery. The other driver was completely at fault and it was determined to be unavoidable from my perspective.


    My seatbelt caused some soreness and bruizing, I had lung trauma (lungs fill with flem, kinda like having a cold), my head was fuzzy for a week or two, and I had airbag burns, but I refused treatment at the hospital and boarded a plane 2 days later to check out a new job that I currently work at. The other cars occupants weren't so fortunate, 2 of the 3 died as a result of the drivers crazed driving, (nearly 100 mph in a 40 zone, then did a 270 degree turn, tires squealing in a new turbo Neon that wasn't his, drinking also, drugs found in car).


    I used to know a fatoid about children in crashes. A 30 lb infant in a 30 mph accident (30-0) gains the force of 3000 lbs or 3 tons, (can't remember now which it is). Safe it to say, neither my mothers arm whipping out at my chest nor the windshield would have done anything at all to alter my trajectory.


    Can you bench press 4000 lbs? How about 6000 lbs? Your seatbelt can.

    I'd like a 6 series too, only it would have to be in avery dark garrage so I didn't have to look at it. Oh, and I'd want to chop out the IDrive setup and put in an aftermarket stereo, but how do you get climate control then, isn't it in there also?


    Should be low key, unlike the 8 where people are always staring at you and walking around your car in parking lots, trying to figure out what it is, most people will figure the 6 is a Pontiac GTO, Grand Prix or something and not give it a second look. Very good for traveling in cogneto.

    I have 4 extra sets of chips for 850's, 2 stock ('91 and '92 U.s. apec), one from Autowerks which have never been used, and these that I found in the CPU's that I pulled out of my current '91 850. I had extra cpu's from my last car with Comforti chips in them so I just swapped the CPU's out. I had no idea there were aftermarket chips in the ones I pulled out untill I found stock chips in the glove box. I opened the CPU's to find the chips shown installed in the picture. They are marked 850 iE or LE, can't tell. Does anyone know whose chips these are?


    Also, does anyone know anything about the Autowerks chips?


    Does anyone want to buy any of them or the extra CPU's?

    From what I heard lately, they are not planning the V10 any longer. We'll see when it gets closer to production.


    Personally I think anything over 5 speeds is absolutely rediculous outside of race cars. Race cars are more likely to have narrow powerbands (because they are searching for the max power at the expense of convenience, engine life, cost, etc) and therefore require many gears. These BMW's (thanks in part to the new valvetrains) have extremely wide HP and torque bands. As the power bands get wider, the gears should get fewer, not the other way arround.


    4 or 5 speed stick should be the most fun outside of the race track. SMG's usually require you to use both hands, something I never do unless I'm near the limit of control.

    Oops, I was mistaken on the brand of wires. They say "Karlyn" on the package, but the wires themselves, or at least the end caps, say "Bremi".


    Those are from BMA, and seem identical to the Beru ones.