Beiträge von stuart

I've seen the pickup conversion done on a Porsche 928 GTS, (the CSI of the 928's) sacrilidge. Although it was a very high dollar conversion, eaqualling anything Porsche would do, I'd still like to slap the people who did it. The 928 GTS is one of my very favorite cars.

That part of your post about "live near the autobahn" has me drooling. My little town has most of it's roads posted at 25 - 30 mph.

One day I hope to keep an apartment there with, I duno, maybe a Lamborghini or a Mclaren in the garrage, probably one of those Y2K turbine powered motorcycles that goes 235-266 mph would be a smart purchase.

That is definately the place to own the car your having built, you'll definately enjoy it. A guy at the local car show has a 750 Hp Viper Venom, it is so loud that my ears actually hurt when he winged the throttle. It had Nitrous also. He bought it second hand with the conversion already done for $70,000 with something like 10,000 miles or less. The local gas station where I lived in Arizona rents Vipers and other cars like that. I always wondered if they checked tire tread depth before and after you rented them, they would loose money with me behind the wheel.

When I did the 7% lower rear end (out of an older M5) on my last 850, the 0-60 mph times were identical at 6.82 sec. (Comforti, Supersprint exh, ASC off, brake torquing from the same rpm on the same stretch of road, 1/4 tank of gas etc...) However, as it was about 8 deg Farenheit warmer on the after runs, so it's possible that it really was faster. I think you would really want a reduction in gearing of 20% at least. This was on an automatic trans car. I am not planning the same modification on my current 850 unless a rear end is given to me, and installed for free.

Carefull with the Viper Frank, the same attributes that make them so fun, also make them very very easy to crash.

They are especially dangerous on street tires, I would strongly suggest very very sticky tires, something with a wear rating under 200.

I have seen / heard of many Vipers crashing on the street because they had street tires on them. They aren't particularly quick off the line no matter how much Hp they have because they are traction limited, brutal over 40 though.

Only a month or so ago, my good friend in his '93 Rx7 was next to a GTS with an aftermarket exhaust (and who knows what else) at a light. They both went slowly through 1st gear untill they crossed the street because of rain valleys that are in the street, part way through second gear they both punched it. The Rx7 pulled a car length and a half on the GTS before hitting third, the shift to third was too violent for the Viper and my buddy watched in the miror as the tail of the Viper went one way, then the other, then back the first direction, then finally spinning through 40 foot of 8 foot tall cyclone fencing at a construction site, ending up in a ditch. For sure driver error, pissed that he was loosing so badly to an Rx7, and probably shifting too agressivly into third.

My buddy went back in a different vehicle and took the attached picture.

I wouldn't dream of trying to talk you out of it, just letting you know, (in case you didn't already, which I'm sure you do or will be told by the guys that are modding the car) that THIS SNAKE WILL BITE.

This is the after shot of the same cylinder. This is the old gasket cleaned up and sealed with Permatex Ultra Grey sensor safe silicone. I did a bit of porting to get the gaskets to line up with the manifolds, and smoothed out the texture on the inside of the manifold runners. I repainted the rocker covers and have decosmolened the intakes and done some red crinkle finish paint in between the ribs on the manifold tanks. I will be polishing the ribs before clear-coating them. I wonder if there is a flat clear engine enamel paint, Hmmm.

Here are the item numbers for the discs on EBay. I spoke to the guy at Nights Auto, he got your email this morning, hasn't gotten around to answering it yet. He gave me these numbers.

Front 2461477629

Rear 2461477689

Did you look up the site above at Nights Auto? Those Brembos coated with cadmium (gold in color) are awfully petty. The gold color wears off immediatly from where the pads rub, but everywhere else it prevents corrosion.

\Having this coating on the inside, where the fins dissapate heat, maket the coating a performance benefit, as usually corrosion reduces the ventings efficiency. Having the plating on the edges and the hat means they wont rust if it rains or if you wash the car. $300 for the set of 4 isn't bad.

For a look at exhaust, click on my avatar pic to go to my photo gallery. The second picture shows my last car (a 1992 850i) with the Supersprint exhaust.

Supersprint seems to make the most power, costs about $1300 U.s., and off idle is nearly silent, however it has a great burble at idle.

There are chips to alter the timing and fuel mixture of the engines, Jim Comforti's being the best, but no one tunes cars on a dyno by altering the WOT or part throttle mixture that I know of. I have myself been wondering about adjustable vacuum refrenced fuel pressure regulators to do this very thing. Part throttle on most cars is closed loop with the O2 sensor, and open loop using pre-programmed maps for Wide Open Throttle. Adjusting fuel pressure a couple of pounds should do it. You can view the thread under modifications, "exhaust/fuel mixture".

As far as supercharging, there are companies that do it, their prices seem to be about 18,000.00 Euros for the Kit and 35,000.00 Euros installed. Not an option for a car of this value. For the price of the kit alone, you could buy a late 80's, low miles 944 turbo, put a cat replacement pipe, mass flow sensor / chips from Autothority, and be in the 360 Hp area. Low to mid 4 sec range in the 1/4 mile, and save the 8 series for what it was intended, (which by the way is not as a sports car).

Glad to have you here, have fun with the 8's.

Is my humor too dry?

To stop this simply spray the brake discs with WD40 or similar lubricant. PM me for details before doing the procedure.

I had the ATE Powerslots on my 750iL and they tend to make a growling noise at 20-30 MPH when braking. They also eat up the pads faster than drilled and therefore produce more dust. ATE also makes drilled I think, you might want to stick to these.

WOW, that's the nerdiest thing I've ever seen. Guy must have to fend off the chicks with an iron pipe.

Too bad it's not Star Trek stuff, he could be the the star of the next Star Trek convention, and maybe get it autographed by Leonard Nemoy.

On my last 850 I bought the Zimmerman cross drilled rotors at a cost of $280. U.s. from BMA.

Yesterday, I bought a set of Brembo cross drilled rotors that have been cadmium plated from Nights Auto in Canada. $147 for the front set, and $113 for the rear set, ($305.00 for all 4, including shipping to Michigan, USA). sales@nightsauto.com from the U.s., 1-(800) 823-6945

Can't help you with the UK suppliers I'm afraid.

I recently spoke with the guys at Eisenman. They do 3 types of exhaust for the 850, the first (street I think) is about as quiet as stock and adds 0 HP, the second is sport (I think) and adds something like 2-3 Hp, and the third is race, and adds something in the neighborhood of 5-8 if I remember right.

Basically you won't "feel" any difference with anyone of them, unless your mind fools you because of the sound. They say their exhausts usually save 25-30% weight over stock. Price was $1500 ish, (didn't take notes as I wasn't seriously interested after the Hp estimates).

Best price here in North America that I have found is http://www.evosport.com they are at $645 a side or $1290. u.s. bmpd.com (BMP Design) is $20 more per side. I have not checked out of the USA.

Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 1:32 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, just re-aquainted myself with just how fun the intake mannifold job is. (Before flaming me, please make sure you brush up on the definition of the word sarcatstic). I understand deisel is supposed to get the cosmolene off. Isn't kerosene a close realitive? I tried Kerosene and it did nothing. I've used oven cleaner in the past, which worked, but left a white fuzzy finnish which then had to be removed.

I have included a closeup of the intake gasket, showing how they do not line up from the factory. They are not always the correct shape for airflow either. Usually 2-3 cylinders need to have their radiuses on the bottom smoothed, and then the whole gasket ligned up upon reinstallation.

Dealers I have talked to say that the new gaskets leak almost as frequently as old ones, so they use some hi-temp (O2 sensor safe) silicone on them. The old ones are usually fine, so I use silicone on the old ones.

I have the right side new in the package I'll sell you for $160. I ordered them from BMA. The'll sell you the other side for $175 ish. They are Belkin, one of the OEM manufacturers. My car, like most 8 series has Beru wires. One side was replaced by a dealer and I am holding out for Beru's for the other side. I bought Beru's before from a foreign auto chain called BAP in Arizona before for my 750, they were $190 a side.

I agree, but my car was already aflicted with one. I would have the holes fixed and the trunk lid re-sprayed except the wing scrached up the edges of the quarter pannels and I would have to re-shoot both quarter pannels and the roof to not have any blend lines, always visible on ablack car. Being that it is a fairly low miles car, I am re-installing the wing.

My car unfortunately came with a wing like the one in the bottom pics. Matches the shape of the car perfectly and looks good from the back, but ruins the cars sleek lines from the side.

The wing, (like most if not all of them) requires major work to not look blatently aftermarket. Much as in the 8th pic from the bottom, (blue just above the pic with SEV on the back) you can see the waves in the top of the wing. Looking at it in the right light will make you cringe. Mine had a crack in the back, and there is a recess in the middle rear on the bottom, looks like it is for a 3rd brake light.

I took the wing to a body shop and they are blocking out the wing, fixing the crack and filling the recess. When it comes back at least it should look like it could have come from BMW. They are only charging me $130 for the work, so not bad. Probably about what you would pay to have it painted the first time. So I would not say to stay away from this wing, it is actually quite well built and stylish, just make sure the place you take it to for the paint does it right when they prep it, or you will be unhappy.

I have a Racing Dynamics rear diffuser that I bought for my last car, (the thing that goes under the car between the exhaust tips). Biggest piece of junk. So weak that you can crush it with your finger tips. Had cracks down the seams when it arrived. The paint shop I took it to would not just paint it, saying it would crack soon (worried about their reputation, can't blame them). We figured out a price for filling it with expanding foam to give it some structure and a price for grinding and re-glassing the cracked seams, but it was too expensive, in the hundreds.

I called them, (Electrodyne, which is who you have to buy them from, at least here in the U.S.A.) and they immediatly said it was shipping dammage. They would not answer me when I asked them how they knew, as they had not seen it since they packed it. This seems to be a technique of theirs. They make you sign a multi page contract when you buy it, stateing that all claims for shipping dammage have to be made in a certain number of days etc etc etc. When you call they immediatly say it's shipping dammage without even asking what the dammage looks like or where it is on the part, NICE! They don't take back defective parts, at least not without a return authorization which they will not give you, (at least they will not give me), NICE again! Stay away from these jokers like the plague. I do think the diffuser would be nice if it weren't junk, actually think it looks better on the car better than the CSI unit.

Yeah, you're right. Being that the electrical connector is already disconnected when you pull the bung, and it's probably not powered with the ign off anyway,there's probably no theoretical reason to disconnect the batteries. But I figured I'd really hear it from some extremely carefull BMW types if I didn't say that. I didn't disconnect the battery in my 750 when I did it. But for my liability's sake, don't take that as advice.

I had the H&R's and Bilstein sports, worked great, I have pics of the car with the springs and 18" hand polished M-parallel wheels. Would post them if I knew how.
AAARIMS sells 18x8 / 18x9.5" M-Parallel rims for $800. a set of 4. They are the machined face / lip. For $1200 us, they are available in chrome. Mine are the machined ones and came with 245/40/18 and 275/35/18 Kuhmo Estra Supre 712's for a grand total of $1400. mounted and ballanced with BMW emblems and chrome lug nuts included. These prices do not include shipping.