Beiträge von Beammer

    Leaving this Forum for good!


    SOLD!!! :wink:


    The 850 Ci is sold, also the Cosworth which I owned for almost 14 years. Have replaced them with a brand new Corvette Z06.


    I would like to thank all of you on this Forum who have helped with my various problems; you know who you are


    I won't be buying any more BMW's, however, but wish all you 8ers on here many years of happy motoring.
    _________________
    Cheers,


    John.


    E. Yorkshire, UK


    K8PPL 1993 850Ci

    This has been an intermittent problem for a couple of years at least. The Traction Contol warning light would stay on after the engine was started and more or less as soon as I set off the ABS warning light would come on and stay on. Occasionally the AHK light would come on as well along with the chime and MID readout (what I got to call a 'full house'). More recently the AHK light just stayed on in sympathy with the Traction Control
    light. I took the car to a local garage and after some diagnostics they changed the front and rear nearside ABS sensors and hey presto, no alarms up! Even when all three alarms were up, the car was still driveable.
    Now the hard part is paying the bill, however, the garage only charges £20 plus vat for labour :lol: but the sensors are £128.50 and £132.50 plus vat. :(


    Dunno 'bout the rest of you on here but I prefer non ABS brakes which don't need expensive sensors, etc. :wink:

    TerryY,


    Sincere apologies for the long delay in getting back to you on this one! After a long protracted investigation into the problem , I traced the fault to bad corroded push-connections at the horn itself! Unbelievable! :shock: All the time I was fearing it was something far more complicated and had visions of mice chewing hidden wiring and other weird carry-ons. Thanks again for your help.


    John

    First registered March 1993 with original registration K8 PPL, Metallic Granite Silver, Black Leather, switchable sports box, 17" BBS alloys, every conceivable extra, 126k miles, FSH, MOT'd and Taxed, immaculate throughout.


    I have owned this car for the last 4 years and am reluctant to part with it as it is such a joy to drive.


    £5,995 ONO


    Tel: 01759 304533 or 07985 591951

    Do you mean is it a true semi-synthetic? I have always assumed it was. You could always look on Castrol's website and see what they say about it.

    Interesting! Anyone not using at least a semi-synthetic in their 8 needs their head examining. I suspect that Castrol RS was not a true synthetic at the time when Mobil took them to court. (See similar thread under this heading).

    Crazy8151, you refer to 'valve pushrods' in your engine. Could you clarify this as I was under the impression that 8 series engines were of the OHC variety?


    We do not post on here to create arguments but to help each other out so let's all mellow a wee bit. So keep the gen 'pukka'.

    Crazy8151,
    I stand by my comments in my last post. Your comment about expecting 10w-60 to be 'thick as hell' at operating temperature leaves me in some doubt as to whether you fully appreciate the meaning of the viscosity rating of a multigrade oil.
    Of course your BMW man would recommend their own labelled oil, after all, they've a business to run. Who supplies it to them, I wonder?


    Stevep840, good choice of oil! I use Silkolene PRO-S 10w-50 in my Cosworth as recommended by an expert from Opie Oils who are based in Cornwall. He put me off using Castrol RS 10w-60, although he could have sold me some, as it was too 'thick' at operating temperature (I seem to remember that Mobil took them to court, something to do with Castrol RS not being a true fully synthetic as claimed, but I may have got the wrong end of the stick about this).


    As for the 8 series, I will stick to Castrol GTX Magnatec 10w-40, the recommended grade to use, unless someone on here can positively prove that the BMW labelled oil is superior to this in meeting and exceeding the SAE, API, etc, requirements and standards.

    There is a lot of speculation about lubricants on this and also on the RS Owners' Club website. Unless you are an expert on the subject it is best to stick to the manufacturer's recommended oils.


    I dropped the sump pan on my 850Ci and the inside was clean as a whistle, not like in the old days before synthetics were available and you would get about an inch of sludge.


    If your oil is quickly getting dirty there is either something wrong with the engine or a previous owner has not used the correct oil.


    By the way, 10w-60 is not too 'thin', it is too 'thick' or viscous at operating temperature. It may give you a slight increase in oil pressure, but would not flow quite as easily as, say 10w-40.


    Modern synthetic oils now are so good compared to the old straight viscosity and multigrades that manufacturers have extended the periods between services on new models.


    However, I for one will always change the oil and filter sooner rather than later, and never do more than 5000miles between changes.


    Modern engines are good for several hundred thousand miles provided they are looked after correctly.