Beiträge von theo

Paul

be happy you don't still have the Boge OE shocks. If you went back to them you would be very dissapointedlet alone the cost differential. They "ooze" around corners till you stiffen the suspension up.

I fyou really want it to go where you point it then a set of 28.5 front sway bars and 19mm rear. Like a go kart! they are available form k-Mac Ysndey Aust or from Greg K someplace in the US but it seems he is a backyard work form home hobbyist rather than a respected business (un reliable and slow to deliver form all reports).

As for the light, no. Our Ausssie spec cars are same as Europe/UK.

Try Carlie Spear or Dave Belknap at Gault BMW 180-0 777 5508 or 607 748 7419

Cheers

I have done 5 or 6 seals now.

They are fairly straight forward.

1. The lid needs to come off. There are three torx bolts each side that you get to form underneath. Set the lid to vent to reveal the bolts

2. remove the lid and lay on some clean material then strip the old rubber

3 push the new one on and mark it so you can trim it to corrct lengthas the new one is longer than reqd. I prefer to use a bench mounted grinder to trim as there is a metal strip inside the rubber than doesn't cut easy or straight with snips

4. when trimmed you reinstall and glue the ends together with Loctite 424(? it's a special instant drying glue for rubber)

5 use a contact adhesive around several spots where the lip touches the inside of the lid same the factory did it. Not the entire inside of the rubber area just the lip.

Carefull you don't distort the metal insert as you push the seal on. Just go gentle and take you time.

If you find rust then you really need to get rid of it, not just convert with some stupid chemical. I use a small sandblaster or you might find a glass bead blaster at a cylinder head shop or even grind it but be sure to get it all as rust never dies. You need to remove any signs and re prime or you will end up having to re visit some time too soon

Hope it helps

Hey Paul,

interesting!

While replacing the spring fixed the problem, in principle, it just doen't make sense that it was the spring itself.

Do you have any thoughts on that

Cheers

Sorry to have misled anyone with the E34 story.

to clarify, E34 uses several different types of diff.

The 210mm ring gear model, as required for e31, comes from the M5 and 4/4.4 V8 NOT the smaller V8 3.0/3.5.

Front yoke should be the same as 840 but larger than 850

cheers

1. what engine is yours?
2. what engine in the m5?

Make sure it is an E34 donor car. 6 cylinder cars and the smaller 3.0 & 3.5 M60 V8 uses a smaller unit, no go.

It comes down to using your own rear cover regardless of engines.

Front yoke needs to match yours. Almost certain you need to retain your own

Axles flanges are just a 'pop ou't. You may need to use yours but I don't think so

540 840 M5 use same front flange and are different to 850 so if you have a 5.o you need to take both diffs to a diff/trans shop and have them swap them over. This is a touchy job and can ruin the assembly if not correctly torqued using a new crush sleeve. Also do the front seal while at it using only a BMW seal.

hope it helps

T

M5 Diff

I didn't look at the ebay item but I trust it is a LSD with gear ration of 3.64 or 3.91.

I have a 3.64 set in my 840 and have a spare 3.91 set in my workshop. I love what the 3.64 does for acceleration but fuel consumption gets heavy.

I almost need to try the 3.91 ratio because it woud be a real tyre frier ratio, especially when using sport mode and taking off in 1st gear.

If you have an everday ride and are worried about fuel costs then don't do it. Mine is a weekender so while I hate paying the price the sensation of acceleration makes it worthwhile.

Cheers boys

sugar additive?

Somethng not considered is the effect of adding ethanol to the mix.

Here in Oz there is a push and I believe a mandate for adding the sugar extract as of a certain date not far away.

A year or two back we had "rogues" secretly adding 10% which was considered a crime, fraud etc. The faCT is that now we have one or two companies marketing a 90%/10% blend which on 91 octane raises the bar to 94 and in 95 Regular Premium(SAY WHAT? we have a 98 non blend also) raises it to 98.

I have used the sugar blend 94 and the 98 compared to non blende and cannot feel or measure a difference so naturally I go the cheape beleded mix.

My suspicion is that our Shell V max is nothing more than a blend of ethanol in an already high (due to refining) 98 or maybe 96.

Regardless, low comp V12's will not notice much if any power gsain but will probaly notice smoother running and above all better ecnonomy wheras the V8 should notice a marked increase due to the high comp AS WELL AS BETTER MILEAGE.

Now for the kickers.

BMW Australia approves a 105 maximum blend as do the other majors while individual opinion will tell you all kinds of crap about engine damage etc. if you use ethanol blends.

Fatc is this. my good friend who works for Sheel tells me that they are gearing up for the mandatory 10% blend and are replacing all steel underground tanks with fiberglas or plastic becase the ethnanol when used at hgher 5's cauese the rust on tank walls to fall off and blocks car filters and injectors..........open to law suit hence maximum 10% .

Older cars with steel fuel lines have internal rust and above 10% they run the risk so better we keep below 10% blends.......for now anyway.

Imagine what a 20% blend will do for octane ratings in cheap shitty low cost, low octane fuel!

Most cars now don't run much rustable stuff and even injectors are plastic so in future be ready for higher blends and higher performing fuels ands less emissions thanks to fuel additives from Sugar, Corn. Beets etc

Cheers
Bring it back o brother, I'm ready!

Couldn't happen to a bigger bunch of c%$s!

Those of you who have ever tried to get help or talk to these p*#cks would agree that they are ignorant, arrogant and deseve to be on the dole queque.

Having said that I am sorry to see the Brand dissapear for the sake of the consumer and anyone that it may effect.

Cheers Steve

Good description Noggie!

The tape will centre the wheel for a short time but it should not be viewed as the solution. Mine had tape but when you hit some rough raod and under braking hard the wheel can still move as the clamping prssure of the bolts is all that is keeping it in a circular rotation and it will go "out of round fast'

I learned the hard way

Cheers

Sorry bout that. Must have been pissed.

E34 wheels and most non E31 have a lerger centre bore. The centre bore locates the wheel to allow it to spin perfectly round.

E31 uses a smaller bore and while large bore wheels physically bolt up they wno't run true circles as they cannot "locate" on the hub.

The solution is to reduce the diameter of the wheel bore to the same diameter as required on the e31 with a spacer ring usually forged from aluminium.

Opinons from BMW will be expectably %#@! but I used them on my replica Throwing stars. My problem was that the wheel was running elyptically not circular.

Check the bore diameter on the wheel Then check the diameter of the hub where the bore should seat. You should not be able to fit more than a sheet of paper between the surfaces.

Cheers

Thanks for the advice Schnitz. As assholes live worldwide I will let the local boys know this one!

cheers

elyptic wheels are usually the result of fitting large diameter "bore centered wheels(eg from a 540). If you check you may find a difference in diameters of around 2 mm.

This is a common problems when tyre & wheel sellers don't know there is a difference on E31's. Mine had plastic tape wrapped around the hubs when I bought the car.

The aftermarket makes spacer rings, hub centre rings or any name you wish to use, to take up the gap and give perectly round rims agai.

Cheers

I'm a little like Terry,

I mainly do lunch but sometimes it is necessary to get up early to meet someone for breakfast or even dinner.

In between, I have some properties approximately 2000 klm's further north and they often need maintenance issues attended so when the weather in Melbourne reminds me of my time in the UK I head for the sun which is where I am at the moment, Queensaland's Gold Coast (lot's of Sun, sand, large breasted young nubiles and oop's here is the missus so move on)

Just got back from a week on the world's largest sand island (check it out on Google, Fraser Island) off Queensland's Coast and now back to work for a day or three with a hammer, paint brush and an Icy beer!

When I need some money to spend on the 8 I do some consulting work in the Workers Compensation Insurance area and when that gets boring I work on other 8's for local and interstate owners.

Happy 2007 to all!

Welcome Fab and Alex.

We will miss Jud's hard work and input and I'm sure I speak on behalf of many when I say that we hope you will be able to keep things as they were in Jud's time.

The site nearly died when Philipe lost interest and it would be a shame to see it go back to those days when it took three or four days for some time chime in.

Good luck in 2007

There are two microswitches for this function. To access you need to remove the seatas follows.

1. slide seat forward to max fwd position
2. from behind, undo the plastic electrical connector protector plate
3. unclip the electrical connector/s
4. remove the four Torx bolt that screw the base to floor
5. use two people to lift the seat out (dont drop on toes or you will be on crutches for six weeks (broken toes)

the switches are on the inside seat frame. There are a pair of shielded wires(approx 6mm shielding) that run across the top of the frame (one each side under the plastic lower shield that holds the main adjust switches). If you unlock and move the sewat back you can see a cantilever that trips the switches.

I have spares if you have trouble

Hope I spelled the surname right Terry,

I have lost power to my drivers seat computer and subsequently I cant get any seat movement or mirror adjust. Passenger seat is fine.

Do you have easy access to a wiring digram or relay numbers. Fuses (all )
are OK.

Chgeers
Theo

The glass is glued with Eurothane same as the front and comes out the same way........cut with a razor knife using plenty of new blades. If you let someone else do it they will probably break it ( good for those with white stain in the bottom of the glass) so be sure they are insured!

For the DIY person just go slow if you take it for a look

Hope it helps

hey Steve,

get up to the bar mate, your shout!

Now that we've had a few I reckon it's fair to ask if you noticed a gain in your own But Dyno when you installed your blower and again did you notice a gain when you threw in the 3.9?

Beeing the grumpy old fart that my wife tells me I am, I think the same way you do about dyno results. I have been around and seen or heard about so much crap that is bought by the unwary that I just don't even look at much these days and when I saw Wokke's chip claiming 10% I knew he must be a shonk, after all he must be a crook being on that ebay thing and finding him later on to shove this device in his arse was not going to be cost effective.

You may remember that I posted a question re the same issue "show me proof on the dyno" before I waste my time and money. Well, I never did see Dinan charts and when I saw their cost and the cost of a local chip I figured I would try it out.

The results have spoken for themselves ( Butt Dyno) and I can speak well of the product and the man (Wolf Ganssauge) so much so that I have become an agent for his chips.

I still believe your thinking on 'show me proof' wins out most times but here in our small brotherhood of Eights I think a little trust could save many questions.

Now get back to the bar before it shuts!

Hey guys,

don't get caught buying the wrong diff to swap.

Only E32 750 & 740 or E34 M5 or 540

Definately not the 6 cylinder diff that the 735 or 535 uses.

Ratios vary according to country of delivery and tranny style.

It needs to be an E32 740 or 750 OR E34 540 OR M5