Beiträge von shiggsy

Oh what have I done..so the conversations on the day will be :
"...but mines a sport"
"yeah but can it do this?"
"no, but it is a sport"

all I did was put my car model down

Zitat von NickF;97258

Gutted. I've got a birthday party for one of my selfish family to go to now so I can't come. I tried to point out that my car was more important but it didn't go down well

As its their birthday why don't you take them out somewhere nice for the day like, ooh I dunno....Duxford Air Museum.

Zitat von sandwich;97253

Shiggsy...Did you have to put csi after 850? I feel really small now!

Them's the rules, out of my hands I'm afraid.

Lloyd - Black on Black 850
Mick -mcat911 840
Steve- Sandwich 840
Burn - BBmatic 840
Graham - Nifty50 in his Red 850
Steve - shiggsy - 850 CSI

Its 20 Year old plastic, its prone to cracking and failure.

Found rust on my drivers side sill as well in 2010 and had it done. Fuel lines were replaced then as well as my MOT station had mentioned they needed attention 2 years running.

Zitat von BBMatic;96242

Me the wife & boys are 100% coming.

In the 8? What are you, Leprechauns?

I'll attend if I can, been trying for 2 years.

Obviously going for a drive with her top down has resulted in a mis-understanding.

Just took the washer jets apart again, I had indeed hooked the elctrode over the disc so it was directly contacting the metal washer body. Fixed and re-assembled. Left the ignition on for a few minutes and finally they are working.

Tried them individually, they both pop the fuse.

Been Googling Heated Waster Jets and I think I may have assembled them incorrectly. One wires connector sits directly against the side of the metal water jet block. The other wire is supposed to connect to the metal block indirectly via a small metal disc, this is the heating element which creates a small amount of resistance and heats up the block.

Think I have re-assembled them with both wires in direct contact with the metal block, thereby just shorting out instantly.

Electrics got me confused again.

I had the thremoswitch soaked in some corrosion-x overnight and checked it this morning and it has continuity at room temp, which it didn't yesterday outside in the cold. I have put it back in and with the jets disconnected I'm getting apprx 12 volts at the incoming connectors. However when I plug either of the connectors back in Fuse 12 blows again.

The washer jets themselves should have continuity all the time shouldn't they?

If so I presume I have a short somewhere between the switch and the jets.

I'm a bit confused about this switch, although not an E31 I have seen references to it on other BMWs with the same circuit diagram referred to as an N/C Overload Protection Relay and not a Thermoswitch. However seeing as the switch has a metal cap which pokes up into the airstream of the airduct in must have some thermal function?

Hi Timm,
no they are fine I overhauled them a few months back.

Discovered I'm not getting any voltage to my Heated Washer Jets.

I checked fuse 12, ok and had voltage, next I disconected the thermoswitch s198 (located in drivers side air front brake air duct ) and I had voltage at the connector so I though probably a faulty switch.

I prised the cap off and was greeted with lots of corrosion dust and some slightly rusy inards.

Connecting a multimeter to the switches connector I pushed down on the metal plate and had continuity. Anyone know how this switch works? Under the copper plate is a small silver metal cylinder end on (left side of the picture under the copper plate), I guess its supposed to rise up to the plate and make contact when its cold enough?

Anyway I'll replace the switch but I though for the time being I could just short the connection (x11244) so the Jet Heaters woulds always be on whilst the car is on, (probably would be anyway at the moment). However doing this immediately blew fuse 12 when I turned the ignition on.

So I either I can't do that, or I can but I have a short further upstream which I never knew about because of the faulty switch.

Is shorting the connection point not a valid thing to do?

Zitat von 8Tech;95430

One to be cautious of for the E31 is the AHK warning light on rear steer cars as this fault will now write-off all but the cleanest cars due to repair cost.

Nah that's not the way I'm reading it, they mention specific warning light failures, not any warning light is an automatic failure. Might depend on wether or not AHK falls under the catagory on Electronic Stability Control though.

I have mileage limit restricted on my policy too, 5k per year.

Very handy guide that.

Sounds about right, I'm same-ish age and thats about what I paid last year.

Perhaps he forgot he was towing and was trying to let the 8 Series pass.

I didn't recall having a problem with this but as Nifty had a problem with it I didn't want to post back until I tried again.

As Nifty originally said:

Zitat von Nifty50;92164

I can cope with about 80% of it but the bottom couple of inches and the lower corners just seems to have me beat.

I just cleaned the windows and had an opportunity to use it again and I have to say Nifty is partially right, it cannot reach into the lower corners of the rear screen.

This is as low down as it will get in a corner:



Thats actually a lot forther than I could get to it with my fingers.
However for the rest of the rear screen it will reach all the way down:



So apologies to Nifty as it didn't get to the rear corner bits he specifically mentioned.

However I think calling it a 'waste of £6' and 'as much use as a chocolate teapot' is a little on the harsh side. If you drop the rear windows you can clean (apart from the two corner sections) the whole rear screen with it standing up outside the car without having to clamber around in the back seats.

It also makes cleaning the front screen a doddle too especially the difficult to reach section where the dash meets the screen.

So personally I would still recommend this.

Anything that can't be used in the rain in England doesn't get used