Beiträge von Peter West

    I had this come on when my altenator was defective. The transmission electronics is highly sensitive to fluctuations in voltage. Once the engine is running the altenator should be producing enough juice to re-charge the batteries, so electronic circuits should not be short of power.


    Are you getting this message all the time or only at night (ie when the headlights are on)? If so you might check that your altenator output is high enough, as well as checking the batteries. After all, if the batteries are not being topped up enough, it could again be the altenator at fault.


    I had my altenator re-built for under £100, though the cost of removing it and fitting it almost trebled that. Even so, that was still less than half the price of a new one, even without the fitting

    It sure will. Mine has cost me about £6000 (UK) in the first 18 monthsbecause firstly due to an accident. I had to pay nearly £2000 to avoid the insurance company writing it off. Then various repairs due to previous owners only fixing what went wrong as and when it broke down. (I suspect).


    I've had the beemer spoiler retro-fitted. Nicest of all the spolers I've seen. Had it done at the same time as the accident repair and got the fitting and paint for free. (not all BMW dealers are highway robbers)


    Also got the radio repaired at no charge (local BMW dealer) and a number of minor electrical bits and pieces.


    Goes fine now.


    Cat free exhaust is next, then chips, then maybe wheels, but I kinda like the classic look of these 16 inch wheels

    My mechanic said he was able to test MAFs by swapping them from one side to the other, and see if the cylinders not firing followed the sensors. They didn't and so eliminated tham as a possible cause

    I've seen elsewhere that some 840s had problems with rough idling due to low compression caused by the cylinder linings wearing. BMW had to replace a lot of engines because of it.


    Hope it's not that. however, if it is, you might still be able to get a warranty replacement.


    the following for example is from http://www.go-lpg. It implies that BMW might still be prepared to replace engines if this is the problem. (Hope it's more simple though!)



    ------------------------------------------


    Engines built with 'Nikasil' liners


    Important notice




    In the last few years problems have arisen with engines built with 'Nikasil' cylinder bore linings.
    Both BMW and Jaguar have found it necessary to replace many thousands of their V8 and 6 cylinder units with the more traditional (and reliable) steel or cast iron lined engine, all at thier own cost.


    If one of these engines were to develop a problem of this type (normally manifested as rough running at idle or difficult cold starting, both due to loss of compression) after LPG conversion it is likely that the manufacturer / seller / insurer/ guarantor will refuse to replace the engine under warranty and blame LPG conversion, an argument that is completely false.


    High Sulphur Petrol sold in the UK market (until very recently) is the cause of Nikasil liner breakdown. It has a cumulative effect, i.e. if the engine has ever been run on high Sulphur Petrol, damage may already have been done and premature bore wear may result.


    LPG, on the other hand, has an extremely low Sulphur content (lower than the 'low Sulphur' Petrol sold today) and cannot possibly be the cause of Nikasil coating damage. In this way, having a car LPG converted cannot cause liner breakdown in a Nikasil engine.


    Go LPG do not want to end up in the middle of a dispute between any owner, seller, insurer, guarantor or manufacturer. For this reason we DO NOT convert cars built with engines having NIKASIL liners unless they have been replaced with the steel or cast iron lined unit or (alternatively) the owner agrees to sign a disclaimer removing any future liability from Go LPG.



    To be absolutely clear on this, the onus is wholly on the part of the OWNER to make sure that the engine does not have Nikasil liners. We cannot know all of your car's history and rely on you to make sure this is the case. If a car is brought to us for conversion it will be assumed that the owner has carefully checked on the engine's status beforehand and satisfied themselves that it has steel or cast iron liners and is prepared to sign a waiver absolving Go LPG from any future liablity.


    NOTE - Jaguar V8 cars built with a Nikasil engine can be identified by the VIN number.


    If the last six characters begin with an '8' the car was fitted with a Nikasil engine.


    If the last six characters begin with an 'F' the car was fitted with a Steel lined engine.


    For your convenienece, we have linked to a full explanation of the Nikasil problem, kindly located through the 'BMWCAR' website, written and provided by Simon Worby. To see this item, click here


    (unfortunately clicking on here gives error 404 page not found)

    Hi Guzzler, welcome to the forum.


    For what it's worth, my 91 851, the dimmer switch affects the brightness of the lights which you say don't work, and does not affect the lights that you say do work.


    it would be worth checking the dimmer switch out.

    sounds like they're fobbing you off with that one. Muck in any oil is bad. If that's what it is it needs emptying and replacing. Just hoping it will go away? I don't think so!


    If they knew this at the time, why didn't they let you know and ask if you wanted it fixed.


    Some BMW dealers seem to be cowboys. Our local one in Falmouth seems to know what they're doing, in my experience, others may have different experiences.


    I'd get a 2nd opinion and a quote from an independent mechanic.


    When I first got my 850 I was of the opinion that a BMW dealer would be the best place to go to get repairs done, but you soon discover they're only set up to service and repair current and recent models. You need to be lucky to find one with a mechanic who knows and remembers the 8 series. Often the independent garages are more flexible with much wider experience.

    Good luck. Unfortunately there don't seem to be 3rd party manufacturers that make an altenator to fit, so if a replacement is necessary it would mean a pricey BMW part. Altenator technology is not too complex though. My rebuild cost £85 at an auto electrical specialist. On top of that was 5 hours labour (which included removing some of the steering assembly, or power steering, I don't know exactly), and some power steering fluid. Total bill was £325 including VAT. A new altenator would have been 2-3 times that, not including fitting.

    The electrics are so complicated it's difficult to say, but always worth having the output checked.


    What happened with mine was that at high speed it would produce enough juice and at lower speeds it would produce enough if the lights were off, but at night not enough. So, at night around town it was running off a battery which went flat enough to cause various things to switch off, dim etc. When I parked up over night the 2nd battery seemed to partially re-charge the first, so the car started fine and systems worked. Then after a long run they recharged, but around town again things got low.


    My post was not meant to suggest that all problems are caused by the altenator, but where there are random odd cases of systems shutting down or failing to work normally, then I'm suggesting to not discount the altenator as a possible cause.

    H Aylson


    I had this problem too, and the first thing to check, as Thierry says, is the airflow sensor. In my case the problem was more complex and took ages to find:


    Between the 2 banks of cylinders is part of the wiring loom. Some of these wires take data from the lamda sensors (measuring the oxygen in the catalytic converter) back to the Engine management computer. The solder joints on these connectors can come loose because of the heat in the engine. They need to be re-soldered.


    In my case, the amount of unburnt petrol in the cats caused by 6 cylinders not firing damaged the lamda sensors. I had to replace those too. My mechanic found the looses connections and he said as the solder melted and made contact the missing cylinders fired up immediately.


    I hope this is some help.


    I think you can be sure this is an electrical failure not a mechanical one. Somewhere information from sensors is not getting to the EMC and causing it to cut cylinders to prevent damage and get you home. The 2 most likely causes are information about air flow and temperature, and oxygen levels in the exhust.

    Logically the water has to go somewhere. Either as steam, as a water leak, into the oil or into the exhaust. The last 2 probably mean head gasket (which could also explain the overheating). Hope not, I had that recently, and it cost near on £3000 to fix.


    When the engine is running put your hand near the exhaust of each pipe in turn. Does one feel cooler and wetter than the other. They should be the same. If not, water is getting into a cylinder.



    Hopefully it's just a leak in a hose or a cracked header tank and explained by the steam.



    Good luck

    Here's how I estimate labour costs:


    1. Guess how long it will take me
    2. Double it because I don't really know what's involved
    3. Double it again because something always goes wrong
    4. x £40 per hour
    5. Double it again because it's a big beemer and the owner must be rich
    6. Round it up to a couple of quid less than the next hundred
    7. Add VAT


    for example, I'd guess that changing a light cluster would take 1/2 hour
    2. Double it, 1 hour
    3. double it: 2 hours
    4. = £80.00
    5. double it: £160.00
    6. Round it up : £ 198.00
    7. Add VAT: £232.65



    Works every time!

    It should be possible. My local BMW dealer quoted me over £2,000 though (18 inch), not including tyres.


    If you want genuine Alpinas, and new unused ones, it may be the only way.