Kevin,
Try these instructions attached.
Ben
Beiträge von Ben H
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Nathan,
There are Bosch/Lucas parts in stock for £210/£137 respectively at
part # 401110560/401110561
Ben
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Oh sorry Lloyd, try this then...
Ben.
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Lloyd,
850i procedure here. Not sure all of the steps are neccessary ie removee exhaust [it wasn't on my 840!]
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Pete,
YOU ARE BEING TOLD A LOAD OF BS!!
from memory...
From under the car, remove the two (maybe three) thin heatshields from the passenger side of the engine. These lie above the steering centre link. Then remove the close fitting heatshield around the starter motor - one bolt on the front. Remove the two bolts securing the starter to the transmission bell housing. The top bolt requires a couple of extensions and a UJ to reach as I remember. THe starter is then loose and ready to be removed from below - the only way to get it through the steering link is to turn the road wheels to full lock. The whole job took me about 1.5hrs.
Ben
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Piccies please!!!!
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Check fuses in boot mounted panel [by LH battery] fuses# F42/31/33/34 I think. My Drivers side windows and c/l stopped working last week because Fuse 31 had gone!
Ben
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Yes. The starter is located just under the exhaust manifold and so it is running in a very hot enviroment. This wil be exagerated when sitting in slow moving/stationary traffic as there is limited under body airflow to rid the engine compartment of latent heat. The solenoid can stick in the park position thus not allowing the starter to engage when you turn the key. You could try hitting the solenoid with a mallet next time it happens to see whether it frees up, but it is hard to access without removing heatshields from below!
Ben
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Hi Lloyd,
It sounds very much like your starter solenoid sticking. I replaced my starter motor (comes with new solenoid) and it cured the exact same problems you have.
see link
http://www.clube31.net/forum/v…s=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Ben
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Sandwich,
I have a full set from Motorforce ltd. I bought a set of anthracite mats 18months ago from them and are still in excellent condition. Cost me £50 inc delivery.
http://www.motorforce.co.uk/pr…hp?catId=0049&prodId=0035
Ben
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Thanks Bimmerman that would be great.
I wish to fabricate up a pair of stainless pipes using the flanges and lambda bosses from the original part. This will allow me to easily change between de-cat and cats.
How do you find your de-catted system? Much noisier? Better throttle response?
Cheers
Ben -
Sweeeeet rims Schnitz!!
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I am looking for a pair of used cat pipes from an 840 as per items #1 and #2 in the link below.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/sho…&btnr=18_0254&hg=18&fg=10
The cat bricks can be in any condition -good or broken! So if anyone has replaced them recently and has them lying around I would be interested.
Part # 18301742332 and 18301742331.Thanks.
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Stuart,
I also have the CD changer available (complete) if you would like it. I wish to replace it with the 'flat panel' as I have another CD changer installed elsewhere.
Let me know.
Ben
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Sorry it wasn't the water pump
(mine displayed very similar symptons when it broke) - although you now have piece of mind!Glad you have it sorted!
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I get 10% on parts with my car club card. Can't comment on the servicing as I would never take it to the dealer!
Ben
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I hope it solves your problem! Its always very hard to diagnose without seeing it first hand!
65 quid is very cheap for a new water pump! - I think I paid about 120 from BMW, but it sounds like you've got a good deal.
It may also be worth changing the thermostat and thermostat housing whilst your in there as, depending on your milage/age, the plastic thermostat housing has a tendancy to become very brittle, crack and leak over time. The thermostat also has a limited life.
Ben
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Bonza,
I would remove the belt and turn the pulley/fan on the water pump to assess how freely/smoothly it turns. Try putting sideways pressure on the pulley when turning it to see if you feel any play or it starting to jam. If there is any play the bearing is probably on its way out.
Hope this helps.
Ben
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Sounds like your water pump is on the way out. If the water pump bearing is partly collapsed, accelerating with lock on will cause the PAS pump to work hardest; this extra loading will be transferred through the auxillary drive belt from the PAS pump to the water pump. Without hearing it, I would suggest that the bearing becomes partly seized under the extra load but then manages to free itself - this would give you the seizing/releasing phenomenon you are experiencing.
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Mark,
I thought you had already changed your starter motor...?
I changed mine and it cured the exact same problems you describe!
Ben
