Beiträge von affa

  • Lady in red CC00268 help tread.

    Zitat von huldra66;119384

    Finally got time to dig deep into the car , and as already expected ther is a lot of new parts needed.
    Most of the Hydraulic hoses and pipes are in poor shape , oil cooler is gone , brake and fuel lines does not look to good.


    Good thing is that the chassis it self seems to be in good shape with ony a few minor rust spots


    Anyone having good and less expencive ideas hove to fix / replace Hydraulic Hoses and pipes on the car?


    Hi all,


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26728/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26729/


    As you can see my car had similar issues (not as bad I admit) and I ended up changing most of the brake lines with cunifer pipes and stainless tube nuts. They'll never rust again which is great for the Hong Kong condition which is warm and humid. Equally you could buy replacement factory steel brake pipes. They are not expensive but you do have to bend them yourself (just like cunifer so why not just use cunifer?). The problem however, is that to do it properly you pretty much have to remove the engine to get to the front right pipe as it goes behind the engine on the firewall.


    Alternatively you could just cut, add pipe nut and flare the run behind the engine and use couplers if its in good condition so you don't have to drop the engine.


    The only bits you really need to get creative or pay big money for are:


    1. Hydro pipe between the pump and the regulator. Its NLA I believe and they have a crimped section of flex hoses on them. So I cut off the crimped hoses and brazed AN-6 fittings on the pipes and made up little lengths of SS braided steering hoses for flex sections. Then I glass bead blast and plated them with electroless nickel. Becareful what hose and fittings you use as the max pump pressure is 130bars, way above most so-called race fittings are rated from the usual suspects, though they should have another product line that's rated for this.


    2. Pipe from the regulator to the accumulator (brake bomb). It uses a brazed on swivel head connector on the regulator end. I couldn't find a supplier for the swivel nipple to make a replacement SS pipe so I ended up glass blasting it and replating it.
    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26730/
    Notice the swivel-type connector


    3. Other hydro/brake pipes are available from factory. you can just replace them (and they'll rust again because of the inadequate plating). Or do as I did above.


    4. Steering pipes (mine is RHD so the pipes are NLA). Same as 1.



    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26731/
    After plating (you can just see the AN6 brazed on fitting). The picture was taken to show my plater the plating defect so its not the best shot.


    5. Transmission cooling lines. Same as 1 but use AN-8.


    6. Oil cooler and Hydro cooler - bead blast, solder the loose fins. paint. really the only alternative if you want to keep it factory as OE replacement are quite expensive. Of course you can replace them with aftermarket units that will probably perform better.


    A note on using cunifer for the run from the firewall to the rear subframe - As its exposed to the road debris I would suggest using spring armour against stone hits. its basically a stainless steel spring with slightly larger OD to the cunifer line and slips right over. Having said that for the trouble I would equally have use steel factory lines for this run, its a fairly straight, mostly exposed and easy to replace.


    cheers.
    Arthur

  • E36 M3 3.2 evo LSD Diff 3.23 ratio big 210 case

    A bit late to the party but I am currently stuffing a 3.64 visco lock from a E46 M3 into the big case on my '91 850i.


    I can confirm that all the internals mating surfaces are of the same dimension. Even the input and output flanges can be carried across. This is a good thing because the GKN visco lock uses non symmetrical output shafts so your equal length shafts will not fit.


    You DO need to keep the speedo spider ring however. Unless you just want to chance it with the meshing you'd need to get the shims which are NOT cheap from bmw. Or you can get a diff shop to do it. However car being in Hong Kong means no one has the skill to do it so I did it myself. with the right tools and a lot of care its not that difficult.


    I went for a 3.64 because I think it will be a decent compromise between rev and fuel consumption. in any case its a improvement going from the 3.15 open diff.


    Naturally I went overboard and got the E90 M5 output flanges (same diff internals as the E46 M3) with bigger flanges to fit the bigger and stronger CSI axle shafts I got on order. :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:


    I'm now thinking whether to make a diff cooler a-la CSI with some copper tubing. Does anyone know what's the acceptable operating temp for the diff? I will stick a USB temperature logger on it and see if it gets too hot.

  • Steering Gearbox Teflon seals

    I have got similar response from ZF. However I'm not buying their excuses. It is true it is difficult to maintain quality of reco work in the marketplace, however its just a plain lie to say it cant be done. Case in point - our General Modules - BMW would have you (AND their mechs) to just do R&R. however we all know its just dud capacitors.


    Anyway, I could go on.... BUT


    I found the E31 gasket kit (still available) together with the E24 kit (called the repair kit) will give you every seal, including the teflons (some excess ones would obviously be of the wrong sizes). You do have to buy a couple more shaft seals (standard size from a good seals dealer, I am not going to cheap out here and am using viton). I also have the sizes for new INA shaft bearings.....


    In conclusion - unless you actually have metal damage, a FULL rebuild of the E31 steering gear is ENTIRELY possible.

  • Steering Gearbox Teflon seals

    Hi all. It seems the factory seal kit 32131134768 doesn't come with the PTFE (Teflon) oil seals. Does anybody know where I could source the seals or a kit that includes those parts? Those seals are white-greyish in color and are rectangular/square in cross section. The factory kits only include the rubber O-rings. Any help would be appreciated.