Beiträge von reinhard

    Hiya Graham,


    depending on your usage cycle I would recommend not to use any E(x) at all unless you can ascertain that your car sees the petrol station at least occasionally e.g. you need to refuel every odd year. Reason for this is the undesirable decomposition of Ethanol (E(x)) as a result of prolonged exposure to air (oxygen). See it in a similar vein as an open bottle of wine where over time ethanol is converted to acetic acid thus spoiling the wine.


    You probably heard of seized fuel pumps in E31´s a few times by now - this is a direct result of a long period if inactivity (years, maybe less). They don´t fail of boredom but because they corrode internally - corrosion is effected by the a.m. acetic acid which apparently has more aggressive potential in E5 than in E10! On top of that said there is the rubber situation mentioned by Bernhard. The fuel pump is cushioned by 4 rubber blocks which in almost all cases have hardened over the years to become plastic lumps. With acetic acid in the fuel they develop into something really strange and softish which you can actually rub to pieces between two fingers!


    This is my experience having had to replace 3 fuel pumps over 3 years of non-use in a car which needed to be moved just a wee bit every now and then (project car). After the 3rd pump we removed the old acidic smelling fuel and started from scratch :laugh: The reason for me looking into the continued failures of (factory fresh) fuel pumps was the green residue on exposed copper wiring internal to the tank. Copper is used for wiring not only for its excellent conductivity but also because it is quite inert to chemical attack - old fuel started to corrode copper - go figure!


    Below is a test conducted near a decade ago which is indicative to what can happen with old E(x) fuel. The German text can be copied and pasted into the online translator you prefer to use.


    The best mode of action appears to be to refuel with any type of premium fuel which definitely does not have Ethanol contrent (any Ultimate will do...) before you store the car for an unknown period of time. The old method of filling to the brim still seems to have its merits although the fuel tank is no longer made of sheet metal. The more petrol you have in your tank the less air with oxygen is available to decompose your E(x) content. I personally would not recommend this though. A full fuel tank is a bitch to empty if your pump seizes e.g. from boredom or old age ;) You cannot just open up the tank and remove the fuel pump carrier when it is full...


    Regards
    Reinhard

    Zitat von Danilo;152241

    ...these numbers showed in your graph are just the legal limit values for the different Euro classes.


    From what I understand these are numbers derived from model calculations but obviously related to real world values.
    Real world figures seem to show for cars prior to Euro2 that the indicated numbers may even be exceeded by... a lot :laugh:


    Here is the source for the above graph. Apologies for the non-scientific journal :harhar:


    Here excerpts of a book with values apparently derived from measurements.


    Quick summary translated (Deepl.com):
    ---Begin translation
    Petrol engine


    Let's take a petrol engine without a catalytic converter as the original state in 1985. In normal driving, it is generally estimated to emit about 1,500 to 2,000 mg NOx per kilometre. With a controlled, warm catalytic converter, on the other hand, the value usually drops to less than 100 mg, so this is the decisive step.


    Unfortunately, however, this statement cannot simply be left as it is; rather, it must be supplemented by a number of important secondary aspects:


    1) The older vehicles in the test (on new cars) showed many outliers towards the top. Despite the G-cat, four-digit NOx values were occasionally measured. The probable cause was thought to be sloppily programmed regulations outside the test cycle. Since EURO 1, this has often affected speeds above 120 km/h. In the case of even older cars with a US catalytic converter, on the other hand, the test cycle ended at 96.4 km/h, which is where a particularly large number of anomalies occurred. Over the years, the proportion and the amount of these outliers decreased considerably.


    2) The 100 mg were not the end of what was technically possible. With each newer standard, emissions fell further and further in operation with functioning regulation. Cautiously moving current models (EURO 5) tend to fall into the single digits or right to the detection limit. In relative terms, therefore, emissions differ greatly within petrol engines with a warm G catalytic converter, but in absolute terms it is quite irrelevant whether one emits 10 or 100 mg. The crucial thing is that the 2,000 mg is off the table.


    3) The petrol engines before EURO 3 (the ones with the 40-second lead time in the measurement) still have a hard time after a cold start. As a rule of thumb, you have to reckon with about a full kilometre until the catalytic converter has kicked in. Since EURO 3, on the other hand, it usually takes just a few seconds for the exhaust gas purification system to kick in.


    Since the introduction of EURO 3, NOx emissions from petrol engines in real mixed traffic have been 100 mg or less. This should be a safe level for air quality.


    In the case of our old cars, on the other hand, which are typically labelled EURO 1 or EURO 2, it is not easy to give a blanket figure for nitrogen oxide emissions, and in fact it does not make sense to do so. Depending on the length of the journey and the speed, a mixed calculation of warm phases (< 100 mg) and cold phases (> 1,000 mg) must be made, taking special account of any inadequate regulation. As an average value in mixed traffic, 500 mg for EURO 1 and 300 mg for EURO 2 can be assumed.
    ----- End translation


    So.... if BMW jots down a big "O" it was probably meant to be read as "O"oooh we really don´t know ;)



    :winkwink:
    Reinhard

    Zitat von Timm;152211

    quoted: "which showed NOx emissions of zero for my VIN."


    This is outright hilarious - go for it!


    I would think it ought to read "not measured, ever" but certainly not "zero".


    On average it appears that a car of the early 90s period belonging to the then valid Euro 1 emissions class would produce 650mg NOX/km which, if taken into account would be more than sufficient to only use it as a trailer for all times to come. I am pretty certain that the V12 will home in well above that averaged value.


    Here is a bar graph (dated 2019) - all the red bar cars ought to be banned from inner city traffic (here Frankfurt) were NOX rules applied throughout the range. The best emissions classification one can have here for an E31 is "Euro2" - still a red bar in the graph shown below. I think that our rules are/were not as strict though as those imposed in London.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/46155/


    Luckily enough and strange as it seems, NOX rules over here only apply to Diesel engines and everything propelled by petrol is exempt for now. Also exempt from basically everything: all cars aged 30+ and carrying a "H" suffix (historic vehicle). Exempt for now! We can all make educated guesses that this won´t be forever.


    My 2010 535d (Euro5) has exhaust pipes you could basically eat from - banned from various locations in Germany where Euro6 emissions are required. Many 2020 direct injection petrol engines are useful to harvest soot from the end pipes but may drive wherever they want. Sure, soot ain´t NOX but well, emissions nonetheless (particulate matter is another word) ;)


    I am nevertheless surprised that BMW would produce a "COC" document, the very existence of these has been categorically denied by Munich for as long as I tried to get one :D


    Great news. Time for a E31 meeting spanning London Bridge! :cool:


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    Two potentiometers on air intake manifold, one for ASC throttle body. Check these. They are identical and in close vicinity to each other. Judging from parts catalogue the one on top is for ASC.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/45036/


    Misfire/cutting out sounds more like camshaft sensor or possibly crank sensor. Failing camshaft sensor often gives errors until memory overflow (255) but has also been seen failing without any error codes in memory.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/45037/


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    It is not very likely that the motor has given in.


    Can you describe in more detail what exactly is happening when you turn on the lights?


    In case of "headlight winking": this is a documented phenomenon which with some certainty is related to part number 61351392413 DRM3 diode relay.
    Check this first before spilling out tons of money for parts & labour. Swapping the relais is a 2 minute job and not requiring a mechanic at all.


    Pls report back for the benefit of others in trouble.


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    Zitat von GreenDragon850Ci;146722

    Giallogelb ist einfach eine sehr geile Farbe. :top:


    Das stimmt - insbesondere, wenn es so schön frisch glänzt. :cool:
    Einer der Vorbesitzer von CC00428 (Danke, Thomas :kiss:) fand das Eigelb irgendwann einmal zk und Teil-Toledoblau viel schöner.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/42879/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/42880/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/42881/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/42882/


    Das war zu einer Zeit in welcher man einen CSi selbst mit geringer Laufleistung noch mit dem Stempel "bezahlbar" versah.


    Grüße
    Reinhard

    Nachträglich auch hier noch ganz herzlichen Dank an Wolfgang & Mitstreiter für das schöne Wochenende im Bayrischen!


    Weil es sich gerade so ergab, fand man uns am Wegesrand sitzend, mit einer Handykamera ohne Bildstabilisator die mehr oder weniger brummeligen Geburtstagsgäste aufzeichnen.
    Ein Schweizer Hochseedampfer kommt kurz vor Schluss... :laugh:



    Fast 30 8er zum 30. Geburtstag (28.7.2019) MP4 Video - 195MB


    Grüße
    Beate & Reinhard

    The 6 pin black may be X1599 for the "selector lever position switch" e.g. gearshift console.


    I always believed that the 3 pin at the back of the HVAC was for AUC, learn something new every day :D


    You´ll get there and maybe also find the cruise control plug Angus was looking for... ;)


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    It´s gotta be in range of the loom. This much is certain.
    Where/when did you get the loom? Parts catalogue lists this as NLA.


    Is there anything remotely similar to the offside strand of wires underneath the dashboard on your driver´s side?


    I am wondering why nobody with a RHD car and cruise control is chiming in ;)


    One can only and again emphasize: these plugs are hidden well and sometimes not even close to where you´d expect them. They just come with a longer stretch of cable bound back ...


    Sorry to not be able to offer more helpful advice... :dontknow:


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    I do think that the white plug next to the black one on the steering column is what you will be looking for. The black one only shows where it (which way ever) is going to be attached.


    The ETM shows wire colours like so:


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39873/


    Does the wiring look at least remotely similar on the RHD passenger side to what is depicted above?


    Maybe you can somehow see the 4 blue/colour wires come in through the firewall. They will (very likely) be unique to the cruise control.


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    I found a few pictures which appear to show the connector you either have in your kit or need to be looking for along with the location on the stering column.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39840/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39841/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39842/
    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39843/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39844/


    These were possibly taken in 2003/4 but unfortunately no EXIF data inluded so I do not really know what these were made for.


    Cheers
    Reinhard

    We went as far... :roll:


    6MT is 6 speed manual transmission and the suggestion is rubbish.


    I was unable to find the original subject on my cruise control retrofit - apparently lost in the tides of times (old forum) but found references to this labour of love that confirmed my earlier assumptions.


    Both, the OBD2 plug in the M73 and also the cruise control connector (much smaller!) in the M62 w/o CC are "bound back" in that strand of wires depicted below.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/39839/


    Shown is the approximate location where this large OBD2 plug was hidden amidst the cables. To save space these are normally wrapped with insulation tape and the excess cable lengths tied together into one package. This might also hide behind that softish black "tar paper".


    The cruise control plug was not that close to the firewall as seen above but rather at the highest point of the dashboard about 15-20cms closer to the cabin.


    Mind you that this is the LHD driver side - I have yet to master the science of diving in RHD cars and do not know whether they are a copy or a mirror of what we have.
    Do not remove the seat unless you have to fix it - nothing there. We went there and came back empty handed ;)


    Try harder you must, young Jedi!
    Cheers
    Reinhard

    Thanks Angus, Timm - received. I am still around albeit with a delay ;)


    I am unaware that I am in the UK but if I was you´d also have xlnt weather for a change :D


    That connector... forgive me if memories are fleeting. This was more or less the first thing I did in ca. 2003, a few days ago that is. :roll:


    I do seem to remember something but possibly mix this up with the OBD2 connector for the M73.


    There is a fairly thick bundle of wires at the very top of the dashboard. You can get there "easily" once you have removed the carrier with the three ECUs: GM, EKM, LKM (lots of plugs but IIRC only 1 or 2 size 10 nuts). Bend over backwards and dive into the legroom head first, have a torch in mouth.


    Right up where the thick bundle of wires moves along the left edge of the dashboard and continues down you will hopefully find the connector you are looking for. It will not be visible but squeezed back even behind the strand of wires. It will likely be wrapped in the black textile type electrical tape and all you can do is feel your way to it.


    I seem to remember that we took apart half the car to no avail and had given up hope to ever find that plug. I have no idea how you can get this extended to where your steering wheel is, but first things first!


    Fingers crossed and keep us posted!


    Cheers
    Reinhard