anyone interested in making me an offer for my two piece CSi Turbine Alloys ? Good condition all round.
I'm thinking of selling because a set of diamond cut 5 spoke (new) M6 alloys have caught my attention. Need to make up the difference though 
what do you think ?
http://www.rochfordtyres.co.uk…eries%20E31&strSize=18%22
these, and the Reiger Air vents in the front wings like SteveP's woold look great in my opinion. Not tacky, but then I would be the 'beholder'........
Nice wheels mate, very shiny.
The mirrors are so much better than the big non CSi ones too. I personally think there should be a by-law against Vauxhal Novas and Corsas etc having these style mirrors as they are for 8s only in my opinion. Winds me up constantly when I see them, along with 'necessary' chrome petrol caps, 12" diameter exhausts etc on these cars...... Halfords has a lot to answer for !
By the way, what type of front spoiler is that ? I have the factory fit M spoiler, but the middle bit has suffered a bit from speed humps and kerbs over the years and will need replacing one day I'm sure. It currently has Black gaffer tape around it, which although it gives a carbon fibre effect, is still annoying me that I have Tape on my car !!
Anyone fancying a laugh at inappropriately ///M badged monsters could take a look here.....
http://www.jimmy540i.com/bmwnightmare.htm
makes me laugh every time !
Zitat von CLechnerAlles anzeigentony... check the plastic cover or housing of the rear shocks. It is prone to cracking and then rubbing and eventually even falling off. its located furthest in the rear wheel, vertically.
I learned of this as i am experiecing this annoying knocking or rattle sound coming from the rear. after tearing out the trunk lining and housing, then closing myself in the truck as a friend drove around the block. I learned that the rattle is coming from the shock mount. Anyone have an idea as to how to stop the rattle... with out replacing the shock. I have tried some blue gasket sealant and even slid duct tape inbetween but still a knocking.
please see my posting in "LKM replacement" for my current problem in need of advice
thanks in advance , I hope my input was or proves to be helpful.
curt
san diego ca.
The plastic covers are indeed loose, so I will look into securing these. Glad I dont have to get into the Trunk/boot like you did. Sounds a little Gangster-ish to me. Although this might be contributing to the noise I doubt it is the sole cause - mainly because even at 1 - 5 mph on a perfectly smooth road I can still hear the noise and not something you would expect from shocks that are not moving up or down.
I read many threads on roadfly last night and there may be some need to tighten / check the upper shock mounts for play or (worse) cracking. Again, there is no obvious cracking visible, but the wheels are coming off tomorrow whilst it is MOT'd and I'm getting the Discs/pads/park brake checked, and I'll tell them to tighten all the nuts around the upper shock mounts too and check for fractures.....
All I can say at present is that, in the USA at least, this noise seems to be a common problem and there has been some success in irradicating it.
Just a shame that it could be anyone of a multitude of things and nothing obvoius.... but where would the challenge be in that eh ??? 
I'm gonna solve this one, I will post the solution up here as and when I do - however I am not getting in the Trunk !!!
Cheers
Tony
this noise has gotten worse today after 100 mile trip out. However, I think you may be right about the brakes being the culprit. I tried setting off from the lights with my left foot gently on the brake pedal and the noise seemed to disappear, indicatinng that the pads are rubbing maybe?
Are the calipers easy to adjust ? Or is it the park brake cable that needs tampering with ?
Pretty sure the shock mounts are ok after checking the surrounding area. As for the drive shafts, I really dont want that to be the cause - but the car drives very well otherwise so I can only assume the brakes are at fault.
Cheers
Tony
hi again,
it doesnt sound like a brake rubbing sound, more of a creaking noise, and only at low speeds. The car drives superb with no probs at all other than that so I doubt it's the drive shafts as I'm sure that would produce a severe, and alarming, sound.
It's going in for it's MOT this month so I'll mention it to the mechanic and see what he suggests after test driving it.
I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the suspension/linkages because if I bounce the car manually at the boot end I can get it make this rubbing noise, but only for the first couple of bounces. Would a drive shaft problem be identified this way ?
cheers
Tony
hi fellas,
ok, a small but annoying problem which I hope you lot can shed some light on.
At low speeds around town I can hear a slight (but significantly annoying) grinding/rubbing noise from he rear of the car. It sounds like it's from my side, but passengers say it sounds like it's from their side. Ie, from the rear end
It first happened a few months ago, but with all the wet weather in early summer it seemed to go away. Now it's dry again (ish) it has returned, and louder / more frequent.
With that in mind I suspected a dry link or bush and today I removed all the wheels and sprayed every visible suspension bush/linkage with graphite based lubricant, but after a short run it was still there. I'm hoping that after few more miles the lubricant will have worked it's way into the links and get rid of it, but I also have that nagging feeling that there is more to it than that.....
anybody else had this type of noise from the rear of the car, if so do you have any suggestions of how to get rid ??
cheers
Tony
Hi
I replaced the whole passenger side Low Beam cluster last year as the Flash Light Lens was cracked. The cluster is fine other than the cracked lens. Could sell it if you want through EEBay if it's any use to you - the replacement new Cluster was GBP £120 from Dealers. Ouch !
Cheers
Tony
Hi,
Just a point to consider. If the Glove box is locked, you will not be able to open the boot without inserting the master key into the boot socket (as shown in the diagram provided above) and pushing the manual button.
This took me ages to work out, as I did not have a manual, and simply thought my boot was broken..... doh !
Cheers
Tony
ukzero
with that in mind I can only conclude that the lack of extras is precisely what makes mine 'individual' .....
the plot thickens... !
Hi, I also have a 97 840ci Sport, ahem, 'individual' in Met Black.
As far as I can tell the individual-ness manifests itself only in the seat piping. It has silver grey leather and charcoal piping. There is a plate under the bonnet stating it is 'individual' but my guess is that the original owner did not have a love of toys, or had bit off more than he could chew when ordering the car in the Dealership, and didnt realise that he would have to pay extra for everything you'd expect in a presitge car in excess of fifty grand.
So here is list of things my car was considered not worthy of owning...
Cruise Control
Heated Seats
Rear Blind
EDC
Professional Stereo
Headlamp Washers
GloveBox Torch
PDC
Decent Speakers
Tinted Rear Glass
And for a while I didnt have ABS or ASC, but thats another story...... (see other posts)
I'm convinced this guy would have had wind up windows and manual seats if he could ! At least there is less to break I guess
I did get Turbine Alloys though, but I will be selling these soon(ish) to fit new 18 or 19s when funds permit.
Despite all this I love the car and when deciding to buy an 8 I waited 3 - 4 months for a car to come up for sale in the Black and Grey Leather combo, with Sport Kit, and with under 80K on the clock. For the sake of a few gadgets I wasn't prepared to wait any longer. (it had already been 12 years...)
Yours from an 840ci Spartan Individual 
an update on the ABS ASC lights:
They came on again recently, much to my annoyance. Decided to redo the original proceedure, wheel by wheel, and found yet more dirt attracted to the magnetic sensor tips - although nowhere near as much as the first time.
Looking into the hole that they fit into I could see the disc the Sensors read, and this was still dirty, so I cleaned all the sensors up again and this time sprayed copious amounts of Brake Cleaner into the recepticle that the sensors fit in.
After refitting I fired up the car and the lights went off and stayed off. No 'resetting' using the 'tip' I'd been given regarding the batteries.
Now my guess is that I simply did not clean the sensors thouroughly enough the first time.
Cheers
Tony
Thanks for the pics. Looking at them I also think you are right in that it cannot be done without 'extensive' modifications - something I'm not keen on doing in case it damages the console beyond point of no return !
Cheers
Tony
Hi,
has anyone ever switched the positioning of the 3 single DIN units - OBC, Radio and AC/Temp/Fan controllers ?
I want to fit a sinle DIN dvd/radio with a motorised screen, and would prefer to use the space the Fan unit takes, switching the radio unit to the bottom space instead so that I can still see the OBC above the screen when it is out.
Has this been done before by anyone ? Or, has anyone fitted DVD unit to the existing radio slot and had problems ?
My guess is that it cant be done, but there's no harm in asking eh !
Cheers
Tony
Hi,
A while ago I posted a thread about ASC + ABS lights being on at first intermitently and then more frequent and then permanently.
After reading all the threads I could find on the issue both here and elsewhere, it appeared to be a faulty ABS Sensor, so I cleaned all these individualy by removing them from the wheel hubs (for those who do not know where they are; they sit just behind the brake discs, but you need to take the wheel off to get good access to them. Then a single allen key is needed to remove them, but if they are crusty, you'll need patience and controlled force to slide them out of their housing - plus a pack of Band-Aids/Plasters)
All 4 of the sensors where covered in dirt, and had a lot of metal particles (like Iron Filings) attracted to the magnet that is the Tip of the ABS Sensor. Sprayed them with brake cleaner and scrubbed them with an old toothbrush and they came up like new. Refitted them all, fired up the engine, went for a short drive...... Lights still on. Damn.
I had had a couple of diaognostic checks of the ECU done earlier and this threw up error codes of,
1: ABS Return Pump Failure
2: Wiring Fault (with a bunch of numbers I forget)
apparently a faulty sensor throws this message up as it trips the ABS system out completely if one or more sensors is not functioning properly - but it provides a good excuse for the dealers to replace the whole pump unit at your expense - around £800 - £1000.
A mechanic friend suggested disconnecting both batteries, drain the system of any charge by turing the key to position 2 and leaving it for 30 mins. Connect up the batteries and the stored ECU Error codes should be reset, as this does not happen even if the sensors are working properly.
This did cure the problem. I have not had the lights on for a month now, so I have to assume that it was just dirty sensors.
Just thought I'd pass my experience on to the board,
Cheers
Tony
Hi, the test does not work on my euro version. Tried it several times and nothing happened. The diagnostic machine says it's the ABS Return Pump and it's this that seems to be the issue...... what is the difference, if any, between the ABS pump, and the ABS Return Pump ? If one and the same then thats ok. I'll have to dig deep in my pockets and get it replaced 
Thanks for reply
Tony
I've got the same problem. ABS / ASC lights now permanently on, after a two month intermittent period where they came and went as they pleased.
Had the ECU checked and the error reads as a faulty ABS RETURN PUMP.
Does anyone have solutions for this (my electrician friend would like some pointers...)
Cheers
Tony
quality clip.
If you would like to sell me your CSi for 5K then email me, I'll be happy to oblige...... I can then sell my 840Ci for 10K and go for a holiday in yours... ... ha ha
Seriously, that is one well looked after example. Every credit mate.
Cheers
Tony
Re: 1997 840Ci, but no one knows what chip !?
Zitat von enologuyHi everyone. I am in the process of buying a 1997 840Ci which I will take delivery of this next weekend (12/11/05). I will be ordering the Eisenmann exhaust ('race') but I have searched high and low and asked many forums what chip(s) is available for this car, other than the wimpy Dinan. I have not ruled out the Dinan for the Transmission, but I would like a chip with a little more umph for the engine. Does ANYONE have an answer? Maybe even a link I can go to?
Thanks for any advice.
Hi,
I've done a little research and the best I can come up with is taking your car to somewhere like this
http://www.chiptuninguk.com/chiptuning/frames.asp
or email this fella : roger@tunemycar.com <roger@tunemycar.com>
As far as I can tell there are no direct replacement chips for the M62 4.4L V8 engine. Wolfs chips on Ebay, extensively reviewed on this site, and highly praised, are for the M60 and M70 engines only....... damn !
I too have the M62 engine and I want it chipping. Sadly its gonna cost you / me in the region of £400 to do the job, and requires full reprogramming of the ECU on site, and rolling road tests afterwards.
The results sound impressive though.
cheers
Tony
Just loved the early 90s adverts 
Cringed at the late 80s optimism regarding sales 
Spotted the showroom video which, should I have been a fat cat business man with £65K burning a hole in my pocket back in the 90s, would surely have convinced me to hand over my cash willingly whilst slurping the complementary champagne the dealer had offered me (paid for out of his commision)......
Shame about the Csi video being clipped. I was just getting into that !
Look forward to seeing that SKY clip...
Cheers
Tony
not yet, only been a member for a week or so, and didnt actually know there were any to look at. Will search the site now though.... !
Cheers
Tony
