Beiträge von IvanT

I'm going to get one, only €70 on Amazon.es. Been doing some research, like with everything, you have some people saying they don't work, but saw a couple of articles from Scania and Mercedes extolling the virtues of these. Thanks for the tip, hadn't even heard of these before today. Knew about sulphation, but assumed the Ctek handled that. Lots of articles out there about Ctek owners assuming the same as me, but finding that the regenerators work well. I'll update once tried...

Hello Steve,

Yup, tried charging them separately with the Ctek out of the car. Both coming up with the fault light. Tried then recondition mode on both, and same. They're both charging to around the 11V mark though, and are holding the charge? I tried one of them in the missus' Ford Fusion, but no start! If I get a regenerator, I assume I'll be connecting the charger and regenerator, to the each battery in turn, like so...?

Hello Steve,

Thanks for that. I did try the recondition programme on my Ctek, but fault light coming on! Do you know if the batteries are brought back to full working order using the regenerator? I've read a few articles on the forums saying that the batteries in the 8's have to be absolutely top-notch condition or else all kinds of faults start appearing.

Saga continues!!!

Because of assuming I had a flooded engine, the new batteries that I bought were a bit depleted after performing the 'flooded engine start' procedure. Before going on holiday I decided to connect the CTek charger so that nice and charged when I return. On my return, the exclamation light on the charger was lit meaning that there's a problem!
Took both batteries out and tried charging individually, but both come up with the fault! I thought that maybe the batteries were bad, they were Energizer Premium EM 72AH 680A, but on special offer via Norauto (Spain's version of Halfords), nearly half normal price. I thought maybe they'd been sitting on their shelves for ages! I then realised that while away, and the charger being attached to the charging ports, I'd left the ignition switched to position 2. Would this destroy the batteries?

Took out the back seat, and checked the terminals going into the pump, 12.56 volts when cranking. Connected the pump direct to a 12V source, and nothing. Reversed polarity, and a click, return it to correct polarity, and another little click, so I assume the jury's out, the pump has seized! Ordered a new one, but away on holiday this week for a couple of weeks, so on return will carefully take out the sender unit and replace the pump. Thanks for the help, will update once firing on all 8's, hopefully no sender bits are going to disintegrate in my hands. Tell you what, it's bloody cramped working in that rear seat well!!!

Hello Timm,

Ahh, now I see. Fuse 24 will be missing in mine as it's a V8. Was checking a 2014 post earlier that you contributed to. A guy sourced a pump from the states for $70 that fits into the BMW in-tank fuel pump housing. There was an Ebay link, but unfortunately that pump now not available! Does anyone know of others that can be 'hacked' into the in-tank fuel pump housing? I also read another old post from Noggie I think it was where the in-line fuse thingymajig from the right-hand side battery had cracked. I can check that also i guess. I've had the old batteries in and out of the car a number of times, so maybe that's cracked. I guess the best way to determine whether pump, or elsewhere is at fault will be to test if power is actually getting to the fuel pump when ignition tuned on, if so, pump, if not, something else wrong?

Ok, so had my ear literally sitting on top of the fuel pump housing while someone else turned the key. No noise, no clicking, whirring, or humming, nada! Also now know that it's definitely fuel starvation as sprayed some Easystart into the air intake, and it fires up. I assume this rules out a problem with the Drive Away Protection System (EWS) set-up, I would assume that would retard the firing as apposed to the fuel feed? Only had time tonight to pop in for a minute, so tomorrow I'll check the fuel pump fuse. Timm has a diagram of the fuse layouts on his site, but it appears to be for a V12 as it lists fuses for pots 1-6 and 7-12, but I'm sure I'll be able to find somewhere guides for the 840. Would love for it to be a fuse, and not the pump; I believe €500 for a fuel pump!? Are the pumps known to cease with disuse?

Cheers fellas, but academic at this point. Tried starting it anyway using Timm's method, but no joy! The plugs weren't wet, well barely, so fuel not getting through. Back to the internet to research... Hope it's not the Drive Away Protection System (EWS) set-up as I've read some stuff about!?

Hello All,

I've had the 8 garaged for the last 3 or so years. Started it occasionally just to move it around the garage; for the last year, not started it at all! Batteries died, so bought some new ones 'cause I want now to get it back on the road. Car won't start, turning over strongly but no spark at all! Looking at Timms meeknet site, I suspect that the engine has flooded, all fits, cold starts, little travel, and hot ambient temperature. Thing is, is it worth going through the operation of 'unflooding' it with the current petrol, 20 litres of 3 year old 95, and I just put another 20 litres of 98 in hoping it would make up the difference?

M

Thanks Reinhard,

I realised it wasn't super important, just worried as to why they'd cut it out. Maybe just coincidence that it was suposedly done before the light was popping uo and down correctly. With it not being capped, will this result in less air-flow going to the air box on the other side of the air collector. Basically, should I fix the cut-out, and cap the air duct, or not bother?

Ivan

Finally modded the HVAC roller controls, see before and after photos. Big thanks to Martin for the LED bar, excellent bit of kit, and huge thank you to Revtor for his excellent 'How To' instructions on disassembling the unit and fitting the LED bar.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29442/

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29443/

Heads up to all out there who like me mistakenly think/thought that they had a broken roller (passenger side roller in my case) because it doesn't 'click' when fully turned, it's not supposed to. See photo below, there's no indentation plane for the roller-nipple to click into for the passenger-side (red arrows) control as there is for the other two rollers (green arrows). It's always nice to have something that you thought needed fixing/replacing that actually isn't necessary.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29444/

My passenger side headlamp has not been popping up correctly for a long time now, and once up can manually be moved up and down about three centimetres! When down it sits nice and flush with the bonnet, but again I can move it up and down the three centimetres. I assumed something had failed but never got around to getting it fixed. As I need to change the wiring of the headlamps, and finally got around to getting started on it, I removed the headlamps from the car and low and behold, the removable bracket that holds the cross-bar is missing (see photo below). I've checked the parts catalogue but cannot see this particular part listed! Does anyone know if they can be had?

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29440/

More worrying, under the headlamp pod (passenger side on LHD) there's an air duct that comes from the left hand air collector that has had a chunk of it cut out (see photo below). Now I remember years ago after having some repair work done after a bit of an accident, I had to take the car back to BMW as the headlamp would not pop back down sometimes. I assume that this duct was hindering the movement, hence them butchering it. Does this mean that something is out of line!!!? Everything else looks ok.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29441/

Cheers,

Ivan

Cheers Reinhard,

It came off nicely. The microswitch will be here on Friday so a few days to clean and lube the handle and latch mechanisms. Also have had the chance to clean out and unblock the drain holes in the door. Had a clonking noise when the widow has been coming down. Turns out one of the screws in the front window guide was missing. Once the door is put back together, it'll be like new... hopefully!
I am now in the process of dismantling the centre console. OBC needs to sent to Guido in Werne for pixel repair, and I need to change the lights for the temperature control dials! They haven't been working since I got the car. I should imagine some more posts therefore to come.

Cheers,
Ivan

Hello All,

Thanks for the 'kick up the backside' Reinhard. Sometimes you just need to attack stuff. As you said, not that difficult to take the latch mechanism out, but yes fiddly to extract the 3rd micro-switch. Have found the third micro-switch (see first photo). When I press it in i.e. door closed, the window goes up and stays up. When I release it i.e. door open, the window does drop, but sometimes after a bit shoots back up. Tapping or twisting the micro-switch has the window shooting up and down. I'd assume therefore that this switch needs replacing so will order one on Monday. Will probably have to wait a week or so for it to turn up!
In the meantime, I'd like to give the latching mechanism a good re-conditioning as appears to have had some water contamination over the years. It is attached to the door by the two micro-switches, which can be disconnected from the door, but can the cable into the bottom of the central locking actuator be detached? There is a cable-tie holding the rubber boot in place (see photo 2). Shall I just remove this, and the means by which to detach the cable will present itself, or is there something else I should be looking at?

Ivan

Thanks Reinhard/Steve.
I'm wondering how the third switch (which I still need to find) would know that the door has been closed. I'd think that it would be activated by the movement of the latch once the door is closed. Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble that which I'm not looking forward to. If anyone knows of a door module for drivers door on a LHD car, I'd appreciate a nod. At the right price it'll maybe be worth just changing that rather than disassembling the door latch and looking for something that I don't know what I'm looking for?

Ivan

Hello,

I have had time to remove the door handle. The micro switches, one which is triggered by the outside handle (photo 1), and one which is triggered by the inside handle (photo 2) seem to be in good condition, and when activated drop the window as they should. However after a count of 4 or so seconds, the window pops up again regardless of the door being open! Unlike before I took everything apart, this is now happening ALL the time. So...
1) both inner and outer handles when operated drop the window as they should.
2) the window then always pops up after a few seconds as if the door is closed.

What apparatus determines whether or not the door is open or closed? I will need to obviously look at that. Any help/guidance appreciated.

Regards,

Ivan

Hello All,

My drivers side window doesn't always know when the door is open or closed! It ALWAYS drop when operating either or inside handle, but when the door is left open it sometimes decides that the door is closed and pops up. I have to then operate one of the door-handles to drop the window. I checked some articles regards this on the sites awhile back, but have been unable to re-find them. My 'activity' section on this site appears to have been wiped (haven't been on for ages) so I cannot refer to some replies I did get when I last asked the question. I have taken the door card off and given everything I can get to a good clean and spray, but to no avail. I cannot really work out where the actual 'switch' is that senses whether or not the door is closed, so don't really know where to start in trying to fix this??? Is the thingymajiggy in the attached photo anything to do with this?
Help/guidance appreciated...

Called them to ask if the cars were still in the condition that they appear in the photos on their website, and low and behold, they do not have them. The guy I spoke to couldn't even remember when they had them. They don't update their website! Useless twonks! Looks like I'll be waiting a bit longer for the MTechnic!!!

Hello Wokke,

Cheers. I imagined they'd be hard to get. I'm off to a scrapyard in Granada this weekend that has two 8's. The reason for the question was just in case there was an M-Technic bumper on one of the cars. I haven't asked as I'm going up anyway, and don't want to jinx my chances...

Ivan