Beiträge von IvanT

Hello All, Have a bit of spare time today so thought I'd make a start replacing the gaskets and Dowty seals. When I took the plastic coil cover off I was shocked at the amount of oil pooling!!! Anyway, just a quick question before I move on. I am assuming that I do not have to drain the oil before removing the valve covers? Cheers, Ivan...

Hello Revtor, Apologies for delayed reaction. Working on the car today so popping in and out. Nothing happens, no re-assignment. I am using Internet Explorer as I always have done. The 'enter' issue has only recently been happening? I have just gone to Bimmer, and the 'enter' key is working on there? Ivan...

Hello, I am unable to use the 'enter' button in the threads that I'm posting on the E31 forum, but it is working on other forums??? Can anyone help? Cheers, Ivan.

Thanks Steve, but Timm's method worked. The problem I have now is tightening the nut on the battery terminal connector (see attached photo). The gap between the battery recess wall and the nut isn't wide enough to get a ring spanner in there and even with an the open ended spanner I cannot get a turn of the nut! I think I'm going to have to grind down an old spanner to get a turn on the nut! I thought when taking it off that it came off very easy. I think that when BMW last replaced the batteries, they didn't tighten this up very well. It's currently basically just finger tight. Why are battery terminal connectors mostly built with the nut on the inside rather than the outside of the battery where you have easier access??? Regards, Ivan...

Hello, (apologies for aesthetics of this post but the 'enter' button doesn't work for me now on these posts from this computer, but from my work computer yes!!! Any ideas???) To my question, will tomorrow be removing the valve covers as a rather nasty oil leak suggests the gaskets or Dowty seals need replacing. I shall also be changing the spark plugs while at it. Can anyone advise of the torque settings when replacing the spark-plugs, coil nuts, and valve covers? I found this, http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/torq/bmw_torq.pdf, but it's a bit confusing! Cheers, Ivan

Thanks Timm... again.

I'll try that when I get home. Turns out I'm an idiot anyway. Tested the batteries when I got them in the shed, and still both just over 12 volts so appear not to be losing enough voltage to be concerned about for awhile. Didn't think to check them while still on the car; just assumed that a couple of months off the road with very intermittent and scarce short trips in that time would dictate some conditioning in order! Never mind, 24hrs apiece wired up to the ctek won't do any harm. Incidentally, where did you 'look up' this procedure. I tried searching for the subject on here but couldn't find any information?

Regards,

Ivan

Hello All, As my car has been off the road the last few weeks, I decided to condition the batteries. I took both batteries to the shed, went back to the car as I had left something in the boot. The boot will now not open with the key, and although turning the key in the drivers door-lock, the door does not lock despite the door-knob dropping??? I'm no too bothered about the doors not locking, but am a bit concerned as to how I'm going to get the batteries back in the boot without being able to get it open! Apologies for the bad punctuation but for some reason the 'enter' button isn't working in the post??? Regards, Ivan...

Thanks all,

Yeah, I guess you are right. Sometimes you need to just bite the bullet. I'll go OEM or equivalent Meyle and Lemförderer. I'm going to change the centre tie-rod and steering arm (no.14) and take it from there. Just one question, should a decent mechanic be able to ascertain exactly what needs changing because of the play? i ask, 'cause three different mechanics that have had a look don't seem to sure, except 'thinking' that the centre tie rod is probably the main cause.

Ivan

Hello All,

I was hoping that http://www.ebay.de/itm/Rep-Satz-Spur...item5646448560 would fit the E31, but Timm has pointed out to me it doesn't. Another good reason to be subscribed to this site as it was a mechanic that actually said the E32 and E31 had the same setup!!!
Anyway, as per previous, car has failed it's ITV (MOT) because of steerage play, and three different mechanics cannot ascertain what actually needs replacing to fix the problem. The kit looked ideal as I do not want to change the parts piecemeal having to everytime have the alignment re-done. Has anyone seen similiar kits pout there for the E31. I don't want to spend the money necessary to replace everything at BMW prices.

Regards,

Ivan

Hello All,

Will this http://www.ebay.de/itm/Rep-Sat…3AE32&hash=item5646448560 kit fit an E31?

Regards,

Ivan

Thanks Steve.

Unfortunately, I also thought Ferrodo were a decent brand and so have ordered rear Ferrodos which are on the way! Will have to suck it and see. Budget available for the 8 is tight right now and BMW were twice as much as ATE/Ferrodo combo. I'm basically looking to get a year out of the brake set up I'm doing now, which brings me to my next question. The rotors have some wear on them. What's the permissable tolerances of wear i.e. minimum rotor thickness etc. bearing in mind the car is driven rather normally?
Incidentally, the squealing as shown in the video has gone??? Despite the noise that was though, the brakes appeared to be functioning properly beforehand. I do have to pump the brake pedal about twenty times before it 'hardens'. That's with the ignition on but engine off.
Hopefully, the new pads and bits'll get here by the weekend. Going to be a busy one. Have to change belts (arrived), valve cover gaskets and Dowty seals (due now) and brake pads.

Regards,

Ivan

Ivan

Thanks Mick.

That is exactly what I was looking for. Not ever doing a brake-pad change I didn't have a clue what was fixed to what and how. Checking out the shoe replacement video, it looks pretty straight forward. Actually looking forward to getting the job done now. Just worried what I might find wrong regards calipers, bomb, or master cylinder.
It looks a pretty good site with loads of 'easy' how-to's. I didn't think of looking at anything that was not specifically 8 series intended. I need to widen my scope.

Apreciated. Once again 8er comes through.

Ivan

Dudu, gracias por la informacion. Oscaro tiene precios muy buenos.

Timm, been reading posts regards sticking calipers etc.!!! At this point, I just want to put some new shoes on and see how it pans out. Either which way, it's going to need to be done. I'm surprised you don't have a how-to on your site?

Nifty, no takers yet unfortunately. I haven't pushed back the calipers as don't know how to. Need to read more. The other front wheel is the same, but didn't check the back wheels. If they're turning ok, does that rule out the master cylinder being the problem? If I were to push back the caliper, surely it won't bind or squeal, or am I missing something fundamental.

One final question. How do I tell if my brakes are ATE or Brembo system? It's a Jan '94 model.

Hey Timm,

Guy at the garage reckons definitely the seals on the rocker-cover, also said that the auxiliary belt (ac compressor to alternator) needs changing; I have that and main belt already on the way), so more fiddly jobs to do. Ordering new gaskets and Dowty seals tomorrow. The idling still bad, car rocks to and fro, revs drop really low and the battery 'warning' light flickers on the dash!? Noticed a post from you awhile back where you noticed that some caps on T-junction on hoses had corrupted. I noticed when I was changing the thermstat housing that this T-junction didn't have a cap. Should this be capped?
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21303/

Cheers,

Ivan

Hello All,

As per a different thread, my brake warning light comes on under hardish braking but no accompanying OBC fault. I thought I'd check out the brakes today as had spare time. The brake pads are pretty much shod (see photo), cannot understand why the brake pad sensors didn't warn of this earlier? Also, getting some horrendous noise and binding when turning the wheel!!! I've attached video of the one side, but the other side was only slightly less as bad!
I need to order pads and sensors; must they be BMW? Any how-to's knocking about describing how to change the pads as I've never done it before? There seems to be plenty discussion on upgrading etc., but nothing simply explaining how to change the pads?
Any and all help appreciated.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21302/

[video=youtube_share;lFwD_iArlxc]

Regards,

Ivan

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21285/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21286/

Hello All,

I had the engine bay thoroughly cleaned today but haven't had a chance to check it out for where the oil leak may be coming from. The guy at the garage said to take it back in a couple of days, but judging by the oil on garage floor after one night of standing (see photos) I think it's a heavy leak! Didn't really notice it before as it was mixed in with the coolant leakage.
I had to Google Dowty seals, and now know what they are. I think maybe change the rocker cover gaskets at the same time and chec the PCV valve (oil smoke from manifold and rough idling, I thought maybe the PCV valve). Does it have to be replaced, or will a good clean and new gasket suffice? I've wanted the rocker covers off awhile now cause they're a bit tired looking with flaky paint etc so if the oil leak is coming from them, an excuse to get them done. Funny thing though, the wife says the car has stopped rocking when at idle since the engine clean today??? I'll have ro double-check.
As for the brake warning light, I've been reading some fault symptoms/diagnoses threads on the internet so will check that out as soon as I can by checking emergency braking, and what happens when pumping pedal etc.

Regards,

Ivan

Thanks Timm.

Biggest job I've done so far on the car. I know not technical, but bloody fiddly. Did you read my previous posts in this thread? I had the thermostat o-ring on the wrong side of the thermostat, doh. Lesson learnt, take more notice when dismantling, and less notice of the parts catalogue! Had the housing off and on three times over the weekend!!! Had a mega cup of tea at the end of it... Now that the coolant leak is fixed, I have to ascertain where the oil leak is coming from??? It's quite bad and seems to pool on a manifold sometimes creating qite a bit of smoke coming from between the block and the bulkhead. Also, I need to change brake pads and fluid. My dash brake warning light comes on under hardish braking, but no accompanying OBD fault warning. Would you recommend BMW pads?

Regards,

Ivan

Job done. Coolant all now ship-shape. Thank you Reinhard and Timm for the guidance. Only thing is that it's now idling very rough, very low revs? To get to the thermostat housing though, I did have to take off quite a few bits including the hose (10 on diagram) that runs to the T-shape idle regulating valve and the cable (17 on digram) running from the throttle actuator to the secondry throttle housing tube which are both in pretty poor condition! I get new ones on Tuesday so will refit (any advice on the throttle actuator cable'd be helpful) and hope problem fixed...
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21256/

Hello Reinhard,

Thanks for the how to. Problem solved I think. I have been putting the o-ring on the wrong side of the thermostat! I've been placing it between the thermostat and the pump body rather than behind the thermostat sealing it against the thermostat housing. If you have a look at the parts catalogue diagram above, they have the o-ring placed on the wrong side of the thermostat. I thought this was odd, hence my original question above asking what is sealing the thermosttat housing to the thermostat. Well, here I go again. I'll let you know how I get on.

Regards,

Ivan

Hello Reinhard,

I got a new one (€3.04 from my local dealer) but still the leakage! In my post I was trying to express that I'm surprised there are not two o-rings, one to go either side of the thermostat. What is creating the seal between the palstic housing and the metal body of the thermostat?

Regards,

Ivan