Good luck with the transplant. How different are the electrics on the new engine? Many of the connectors should be the same. The pedal box will probably be more awkward than fitting the engine. Remember to bridge the inhibitor switch if you go for the auto to manual conversion. If you decide to keep the autobox with the new engine the spigot bush in the crank may need changing it could be a different size. Once again good luck…..look forward to seeing the pics
stuart
The ones for me would be the rondell 58's nice and lippy and look great on the 8.
Car looks great but Im not too sure about the purple dash
Hi All,
My rear window has begun to delaminate round the edges and as a result the demister is no longer working properly. Has anyone had a replacement window fitted either by the stealer or aftermarket and knows the cost. The local stealer is quoting me a whopping £710 plus vat ….total £835 to supply and fit a new one which sounds like a serious trousers down job to me. Mind you as they said on the phone " the window is being fitted by a BMW expert technician"……. they must think i am zipped up the back.
It just gets better and better. I went to the dealer today to see if i could strike a deal on the shocks, i used to have a garage, and still have an account at the dealer. with 17% discount, price is as follows £598.22 for the shocks, £183.96 for the new hubs that are required as there has been some sort of modification in the new strut legs and they wont fit the old hubs. 2 new boots £2.82. giving a grand total when you add the vat of £920.72
I often wondered what the chairs were for at the parts counter, i know now
I will probably just leave them just now, they are not even that bad, I just noticed that the front was a bit softer than the rear (which has had new ones fitted)
Cheers Tony, I will have a look at the bilsteins. Where did you order them from? I am in the process of fitting new bushes etc to the car, Just the rear trailing arm ones to fit tonight then I will be looking at doing the shocks.
Got my strut brace yesterday (very pleased) it has really tightened the front end up
1997 840……….I replaced my rear struts a few months with oem Sachs ones from the stealer at a cost of £220 for the pair. I have now decided to do the fronts and I just can't believe the cost at over £300 each. Apparently you have to buy the whole strut as bmw don’t do an insert. I am considering fitting Bilsteins. Does anyone know how they will perform with the original springs I don’t want to lower the car (its hard enough getting the trolley jack under the front end as it is)
You need to slacken the screws more, it takes quite a few turns to get the retaining lugs to clear the console.
I have one in Estoril, great colour. A nightmare to keep clean - to the point that my wife thinks I have some kind of compulsive disorder!
Hi, Glasgow here 1997 R 840ci estoril blue.
The rears are simple to do, they wont take you more than an hour. I changed mine only last week as they had decided to leak. I would recommend you change the top mount bushes when you fit the new struts.
Update on heater. Just had the car back form its 2nd visit to the main dealer. New water valve fitted to the drives side ( they said it could be passing ) this was on its first visit which didnt solve the problem. I went back yeaterday they spent 3 hours on it and said its was electrical with one of the wires going to earth. then said whatever they have disturbed the problem had sorted its self. So far so good with cold air working now, but i have a feeling the car will be back into them.
Hi
Temp is fine for the first 20 minutes or so. Then it seems to affect the driver's side only, mainly pushing boiling hot air through the vent on the very top of the door even with the temp wheel at cold (auto and manual) I did flick the buttons so I had none of them on and thought I had nailed the problem. But alas the door heated up after a few minutes.
I will have a look at the sensor thanks for the advice.
The heater is fine for about 20 minutes it seems to work ok with the temp in the car being as it should be for the setting, then it suddenly decides to increase the temp in the car for no apparent reason to what feels like full heat. Sometimes It continues to blow hot air even with the temp settings turned down although the fan speed does increase as it should on auto. Am I right in suspecting the control unit is at fault? Or is there a sensor. Or something less expensive?
