Beiträge von zm850i

    I like technical.


    if you use everything stock brand new, your car will handle like very, very good 20 year old car (our cars were designed 20 year ago).


    If you put bigger/wider wheels, soft compound tires(which will only last from 3 to 12 months) lower springs, bilstein shocks, ticker sway bars, strong strut, harder bushings, camber, your car will be glued on the road and handle like its on rails(well, my e36 did).


    I am yet to see a car on the race track with stock suspension.
    If you dont drive the car and you are a collector, surely will not do any of the above and buy everything stock, but we ARE talking about improved steering/handling here aren't we?


    TerryY
    Thanks for your input, i may try those Grants bushings after all, 3 year and 20,000km im happy with that.

    nerfed, that is your decision to make.
    If you want a low maintenance car get some "thing" like toyota yaris, or daewoo, or ford focus.


    If you already own 535 then an 8 would not cost too much more in maintenance to what you already pay for you 535.


    Ferrari cost $20,000 a year in maintenance, and that’s if you don’t drive it much.


    F1 cars spend $20,000 a day just on fuel and tires, test day not race day.


    BMW 8 is the most affordable suppercar , and most pleasurable to drive.
    Even in 'rip-off' britain! At 15,000 pounds i don’t think you'll find better car to own and drive, or to collect.


    just my $0.02

    Ron,
    Even if you have no cats on your car now you still need to attach the O2 sensors on the exhaust pipe. Weld it on.
    If you don’t, you will experience massive loss of power.


    To test the fuel pressure regulator block the return fuel hose (at the back of the engine in the engine bay, passenger side on LHD car) with the engine running. This will create pressure in the intakes and bypass the fuel pressure regulator.


    I still think its your MAF's. To test those, with the car running, disconnect the plug and look for rpm change. If the rpm drops then that one is good and check the other side. If there is no change in the engine rpm you need to replace that one.


    Did you cached the coils like wuffer suggested?


    Hope you get your car back on the road soon


    PS. You shouldn’t need to disconnect the batteries that many times

    Hi Ron


    Sounds like you are getting a bad air/fuel mixture reading to one side of the bank and computer is compensating by reducing fuel/air mix to the other bank. I think its your MAF's(mass air flow sensors), if not then check O2 sensors lambda,


    Zoran AU

    Good, honest and fair BMW Shop?
    Good luck there because they do not exist?
    Every 8 series owner dreams of finding a good honest mechanic.
    Unfortunately, the truth is that as soon as they see 8 driving into their garage, they start rubbing their hands.
    What worked for me is giving them a call first and get them to give you a quote before you drive in there. If they ask what sort of car is it, i say its a 91 5 series. If its a engine problem, get the parts your self and get them to quote you on labor only.
    Alternatively, buy some tools and do some work your self. I don’t have much time on hand but enjoy every few hours i get to work on my 8 on the weekend.


    zoran

    Theo, i have no idea but will take a guess.
    You need the memory one, as when you press one of the 3 memory switches on the drivers seat this will automatically adjust your seats, mirrors and steering wheel positions.

    Thanks for the nice videos.
    Smoking ride too.
    I had some old 16" at the back with some old 225's rubber, the back end couldn't stop spinning all the way up to 100km/h. hehe
    Wouldnt have the heart to do in with the 18's at $750 per tyre.

    Peter, yes, lucky is understatement. I posted this message on roadfly and Jon L confirmed that this is the return fuel hose that comes from a Y shaped steel pipes from the pressure regulator. So there is only one of those.


    davidmiler, thank you for your kind words.


    zoran

    I’ve had a pretty bad fuel smell for months now on my 1990 850i, some days worst then others, and some no smell at all. BMW service looked at the car and told me they couldn’t find anything. I replaced the fuel pump and hoses around the fuel pump, fuel filters and hoses around the filters that didn’t help eider, I looked everywhere, under the passenger seat, in the engine bay, under the car with no luck,.


    Last week on a hot sunny day I was on the traffic lights and literally seen gas fumes evaporating on front of my windscreen from the engine bay along with very strong fuel smell. That was it, I pulled up on the side of the road there and then, pup the bonnet up and keep the car running and finally there it was. Fuel was leaking from the fuel hose behind the engine coming from the intake manifold and into the firewall and under the car, so much so that I think I actually saw a drop. Now, this hose is right on top of the ignition wires and exhaust manifold (see pic). Very, very dangerous, red hot exhaust and spark from bad ignition wires, I was very lucky indeed, you get the picture.


    When the car was not running there was no fuel leak. The engine needs to be on to create pressure.


    Theo Hoffs mentioned this before on this forum, and I can not stress enough to all owners who’s car is older then 10 years to replace this hose. Cost $8.50 from your local auto shop and 10 min of your time. All you need is flat screwdriver, alto the hose clamps are pretty awkward to get to so if you have one of those screwdrivers that bend around corners will make your work much easier.



    The old hose (see pic) had “BMW 03.09” written to it, meaning March 1990. My car was first sold April 1990 so this fuel hose is 16 years old. Now I want to replace all other fuel hoses and assume there is one of those on the other side of the engine but I can not see it or find it. If anyone knows where it is please let me know. My car is RHD but im sure isn’t much different to LHD.



    Thank you for your attention
    Zoran
    1990 850i AU

    tugwood


    The proper manual for our 8 series is called "Repair Instruction No.6 BMW 8 series - E31 11/94"
    This one is specific for our cars and describes repairs in more detail.
    I downloaded the free version in pdf format 132mb but its not complete.
    The complete version of this manual should be over $300mb and sell on ebay for $50 and its searchable.
    I dont have it but looks like a good investment as is much better then TIS.

    Dave, stick to your 316 until you are 25 years old, at least.
    I dont know about your country, but in my country insurance will cost you more then $4,500 a year, and you would be lucky IF any of them would offer you insurance at that price.


    Even if you buy it and insure it under your dad's name and have yourself as a second driver, petrol will cost you 3 if not 4 times more then what you pay now for your little 316.

    Razy, Which dealer is that? 25 grand sounds like an absolute bargain. In fact I would be worried that it is too cheap and that you may need to spend another that much on it to get it in good condition (if you use Auto Classic that is).
    I want you to get 850 so we can learn from each other. If you are a good DIY’er then go for it. I will help you all I can with getting parts and doing small repairs. And if you get a 850 then we have the same cars and we can help each other with repairs by parts swapping to troubleshoot a fault.
    But if you expect to get Auto Classic to do all the repairs for you then forget it, you’d better off getting something more expensive and newer with full service history.


    If you don’t plan to work on it your self I would suggest you should offer Theo something over $50k to convince him to sell you his. I haven’t seen it personally but I know that he had two wracked eights and I am almost sure that the best parts of those 2 cars went on his red 840. Plus he has done almost anything you would want to do on those cars, including eibach springs, bilstens shocks, exhaust, diff, throwing star wheels, etc….
    There is a very good 840 for sale in Sydney, 50K for an 1998. Another steal if you can go to Sydney to inspect it.


    Looking forward to welcome you to the Great Eights community.
    Only the best car in the world, by far…


    zoran

    Jud


    How do you extract that information? All i could find was:


    Euro Automatic Right CB57000
    11/1989 CB58072
    08/1994 I/P


    Now, im in Australia, RHD, is that mean my car is euro specs, or same production as the UK? Do the VIN numbers indicate that there was 1072 of those cars built?
    would love to find more info on this, like how many of those cars went to Australia, their vin numbers, etc...


    zoran

    Razy


    Its almost not possible for us here in Perth to buy this car. I think there only around 20 of those in Perth and most are collectors owned and not for sale. Few are being driven every day and rarely are offered for sale, and the next closest city to look at is about 3,000km away.
    I spent months looking for one.
    Give us a call or email us at: m8@iinet.net.au for more details.


    Good luck in your search for a Great Eight.
    zoran