Beiträge von steve

    Zitat

    1) Steve - when you write "I suppose if you remove the bowden, the part in the shifter would remain in the locking position." - i'm not sure what the logical conclusion you make here . Does this mean the bowden cable MUST stay in place, no matter what?


    I have not yet disassembled a shifter so I'm just trying to "imagin" how this locking can be done.
    As a car sits most of the time unused I would create a mechanical solution that locks the shifter in P without stressing any of it's part.
    So some sort of a pin is pushed in to a hole by a spring. As long as the car sits unused, the locking parts would have no tension.
    When you turn the key, the cable pulls this pin out against the spring. (So there is some tension here).
    As I say, I never disassembled such a system and so I'm only guessing.
    If you would remove the cable, you would have to also remove the locking parts (in my simple example, the pin and the spring) and permanently disable the locking mechanism. I don't know if this can easily be done.


    3)
    I think Reinhard is referring to the fact that you also have to press the break pedal to move the shifter out of P. So there is a solenoid as well as a mechanical cable responsible of the locking. (They could have used the ignition key - which is just a switch at the end - to also disengage the lock. The physical connection via cable is probably added security).


    4)
    The lower steering column cover covers the other end of the cable, so if you wan't to investigate on this end, it has to be removed.


    5)
    Removing only the shifter cover will give you access to the shifter. Removing the complete middle console will give you a more comfortable access to the shifter and also to a large portion of the cable.
    I think for quick assessment it is enough to remove the shifter cover only.
    Removing the whole console is also not a big deal. If I remember correctly Number 6 on that list will only work if you carefully pry out (with a plastic or wooden stick) the long covers housing the switches (ASC, seat heating, etc). Then you can disconnect the switches.


    I have an M62 (5HP24) with a different shifter shape (like a mirrored L). I never remove the boot itself as the boot and shifter knob fits trough the hole easily.
    I'm not sure that it works also with the M60 (5HP30) but you could give it a try.
    I also don't have a mechanical gear indicator so I can't tell you exactly about the little pin but I'm quite sure that you have to disconnect this pin if you want to remove the cover.


    Cheers,
    Steve


    Edit: no one can beat lightning Reinhard... :laugh:

    Zitat von BBMatic;117386


    1) Can one simply remove this bowden cable to remove the linkage between "key removability" and "being in Park"?


    I suppose (don't know exatly) that if the key is not inserted, the linkage is in locking and relaxed position.
    (Pulled into this position by some sort of a spring. This way it is not under stress).
    When the ignition is turned, the bowden is pulled and kept in this position.
    I suppose if you remove the bowden, the part in the shifter would remain in the locking position.
    Please correct me if I'm wrong, but this seems to be the logical way for me.


    Zitat


    2) Any pointers on the most sympathetic way to start to remove the plastic casing surrounding the gear shifter would be VERY much appreciated!


    - Pull up leather gear shifter cover. (It has clips around. You can also Pull up the shift knob if you like to remove it.)
    - With a screw driver pull up the little clip which attaches the shifter to the gear display.
    - Remove the two screws and lift out the cover. Disconnect the cables. (Removing the upper screw might be tricky if you can't move the shifter out of P).


    Hope it helps.
    Cheers,
    Steve

    Ich kann mich Euch nur anschließen: vielen lieben Dank an Daggi und Armin für die Organisation und Euch Allen für diese sehr schöne Treffen! :top:
    Aachen ist ein wunderschöne Stadt und ich denke das war nicht das letzte mal dass wir da waren...
    Das Restaurant am Samstag Abend war für mich die Krönung... so was leckeres... :mrgreen:


    Grüße,
    Steve

    Wenn ich richtig erinnere, hatten wir in 2007 118 oder 119 8er.
    Die internationale Resonanz beim Wiener Treffen dieses Jahr war auch sehr groß und ich bin sicher diese Jubiläumstreffen wird noch viel mehr Mitglieder und Interessenten zusammenbringen.
    Daher ist die Planung mit über hundert 8er keineswegs hoch gegriffen und die logistische und organisatorische Herausforderung entsprechend groß.


    Einige erinnern sich noch vielleicht an die Problemen und Schwierigkeiten beim 2007-er Treffen. Die eine oder andere Entscheidung manche Teilnehmer dies oder das zu tun war sicherlich nicht böse gemeint aber die Auswirkungen für die Organisatoren waren sehr unangenehm (auch finanziell).
    Deswegen finde ich es klasse das Fredi und seine Kollegen im Organisationsteam diese riesige Aufgabe erneut auf sich nehmen. :top:
    Vielen Dank dafür!


    Ich bin sicher, wenn jede Teilnehmer kurz verinnerlicht was für ein Arbeitsaufwand hinter so ein Treffen steht und ein bisschen Disziplin mitbringt, wird dieses Treffen der Ultimative 8er Treffen alle Zeiten. :)


    Grüße,
    Steve

    I had a sized piston a couple of weeks ago. After I removed the caliper the reason was obvious.
    Underneath the large piston are 2 "domes" and between them break dust gathered in a thick crust.
    This crust was building up above the piston sealing ring and there the ring had a large hole.
    Probably heat is building up under the thick layer of break dust and damages the rubber sealing to a point where it fails.
    From then on it's just a matter of time until the piston fails to move back.
    I was not able to get out the piston so I ordered new calipers for both sides.
    As it seems I got the last left side caliper. From the right side there were 7 left.
    From now on, I will check the calipers regularly and clean the area with compressed air.
    Taking out the pads on the Brembos is easy and therefore it is not a big job.
    I think for every V8 owner, it should be on the maintenance list.
    If the seal is already damaged it should be changed as soon as possible.

    If we don't have something to say... we just keep quiet...:laugh:


    We had a similar discussion in the german part of the forum some time ago.
    There is another German e31 forum where there is much more activity but most of it is meaningless chatter.
    Here, most of the postings have a useful content and that makes the forum (in my opinion) more usable.
    If one looks for some technical help, that can be found very quickly.
    On other sites you have to page trough 20 pages or more before you get the info you want.
    This way it is a very "efficient" and friendly forum but it means also that the buzz and entertainment factor is far lower than on other sites.


    Cheers,
    Steve

    Self healing 8 series... :harhar: That would be great!


    I have something similar tough. Last year I got a Vebasto Heating unit installed in my car.
    When it's really cold outside and I start the heater, a small amount of cooling water is gathering under the car.
    If I start the engine without the heater there is no leak... :hmmmm:
    It comes from the driver side of the cooler but I can't trace it where exactly.
    My only explanation is that when the engine starts, the thermostat is closed and no water is circulating to the cooler.
    When the warmed up water then gets to the cooler it expands the parts quickly and closes a small crack or gap.
    The aux heater on the other hand pushes the water trough the cooler and so the initially cold water finds it's way trough the crack.
    I guess I should as well get a new cooler...


    Cheers,
    Steve