Beiträge von rob850uk

I havent had a chance to check yet but isnt R12 still freely available in the State????

Is there anything to stop me getting it from there?

My air con has been getting less and less effective until now the pump does'nt cut in (due to low refrigerant I guess) but how do i tell if my car has R12 or r134??
The service history says the air con was recharged 2 1/2 years ago but does'nt say what with.

Easy to tell or shall I just book the car into the local air con specialist???

Cheers for that Stuart.

I'll try draining a half litre or so out tomorrow but I wont be surprised if I still have to do the seal.

Ive got a drip from under my '91 850i at the very back of the autobox where the prop joins the box itself.
On a long, fast run I get a little smoke and the usual burning smell but if I only use the car around town I dont get the smell or the leak although the back of the box and the exhausts are still wet with fluid.

Ive asked around and the general consensus is that the output shaft oil seal has gone but before I start tearing the exhausts/prop/heat shield off (again!!) a quick thought occurred to me, IF the auto box has too much fluid in it would it throw out the excess from the breather on top of the box, but only on a high speed run, or would it pop the output seal anyway.

Ive checked the fluid level today, after a 6 mile run with the car still idling and it was over the top of the plastic end on the dipstick much less between the markers!!!!!!

I guess I'll try to drain a half litre off and clean up the area then go on a fast run and if I get smoke then the seal is a gonna.

Any other thoughts or should I just get the tool box out and change the seal anyway?????

David,

The pipe supplied to me as correct was 32 411 139 578 and it wasnt.
The pipe I needed has the same fitting at each end, same as the ETK picture shows but the above number has the same top fitting but the pump fitting is the bolt and eyelet type.
I reckon thats the one you need but not certain.

My local BMW dealer ordered both for me in the end which solved the problem.

Hope this helps.

Had a good blast out yesterday in my '91 850i auto and arrived home with wisps of smoke coming from under the car and a proper burning smell in through the vents.

Got the car up on ramps and the very rear of the autobox is very wet and so are the exhausts but everywhere forward of there is bone dry.

Would an over filed box blow oil out or would it be the rear oil seal??

I know the front pipes, cross member and heat sheild need to be removed but how is the rear seal held in place? Is it an alloy plate that unbolts from the back of the box or is it hoiked out with a screw driver job???

Anyone know if theres a start to finish instructions anywhere????

Thanks in advance

Mike,

What did they cost?
Looking at doing the breather lines that run down the drivers side first as these look in the worst state but may do both sides at once as Ive got access to a lift.

Is there any need to drop the subframe etc?
Hope not!!!!!!

Ok, got p^^%ed off with the car alarm and so have removed it!!!!
It was a BMW fit alarm but definitely not OE.

Not that difficult but had to retrace all the wires and reconnect the factory loom back up.
The main immoblizer part was 4 wires running into the E box and connected to the two white fuel pump relays, the other was on the steering column which was a very thick gauge wire that needed resoldering.

Now just need a new alarm/imb fitted.

Anyone recommend a good make??

Thanks for that, Its that sequence i guess I'm after but I cant decide if this alarm is factory fitted or aftermarket.
Kind of hoping for the later as then just have it removed and replaced with something more modern.

My '91 850i is fitted with a Serpi Star GS3 alarm, the rectangle key fob with a corner missing, red arm and grey disarm buttons and the BMW roundel on it, and now both key fobs have failed.
One went wrong about a month ago, thought it was the batteries but replaced them, LED still works but car does nothing. Yesterday I armed the alarm, car locked, I came back to it an hour later and it wouldnt disarm, changed batteries, no dice.
Opened with the key ok but engine imbobilzer wont disarm so had to have car towed home.
Nightmare!!!
Alarm has an on/off key under the bonnet but this just seems to silence the alarm but not deactivate the imobilizer so engine still dead.

Is this a main dealer job or is there a trick to reprogram the fobs?

Car is disabled on my driveway and I'm loathed to take it to the dealers.

HELP!!!!!!

Sometimes you just land on your feet.

Or I just did!

Needed to sort out this brake sticking issue and so ask BMW Stealer what the cost of a master cyl would be..... £412+17.5% tax!!
So I used a part finder website for a m/c as Ive got a spare regulator,bomb,booster etc and found one used for a very reasonable £70 delivered. It showed up today with the brake booster still attatched!!!!
Did the O ring fix on my old one, my spare and the one delivered with the m/c, not difficult and cost a grand total of £1 for all three.

Took everything out of the car yesterday and have got booster and m/c back in the car but still need to plumb in the bomb/regulator etc but not a difficult job at all.

Also got 2 liters of Pentosin 7.1 from the Stealer for £8 per can which was the cheapest quote for it that I got!!!
BMW? Cheapest? Cant be right!!!!!

Checked pedal travel and its not that so must be a component failed.

I think its time to get the tool box out.

Any chance it could be the master cyl????????

Thanks for that TerryY, Ive got a spare booster so I'll try that first.

Havent got any Pentosin fluid though!!!!!

Got a problem with the brakes on my '91 850i.

Brakes were normal when I started off this morning but as the day drew on (100 miles plus) they started to bind on untill, on the motorway at around 70mph (Officer) they started making a loud drumming noise and the car shook violently when the brake pedal was pressed.
I pulled over for a few minutes and all was well although they now stick on all the time. No need for a handbrake now!!!!
The discs have all blued so its all four calipers on at once and the pedal is rock solid with no free play as they normally have although the brakes work ok at normal speeds.
Does this sound like master cylinder? Possibly the Bomb?
Or could it be a simple brake fluid flush or pentosin?

What would make all four brakes work uncommanded at the same time?????

Anyone had this before???

Ok, will give this a go later tonight.

Have found out my alarm is a Serpi Star GS 3AC.

Mean anything to anyone?

Thanks for that.

Last one does sound like my fob, at least Ive got something to aim at now!!!

Except still struggling to find any info on this.

It cant be that hard.

Hmmmm I had a look in the manual and it only tells me how to program the infra red rocker alarm fob rather than the one I have.

There's normally a technique to these things so I'll just have a fiddle with it and see if I get anywhere.

I managed to flatten the batterys in my remote alarm fob by lobbing it in with a load of stuff in a suitcase that kept the buttons pressed down for about 5 hours!!!

This led to one of those car wont disarm alarm episodes that can really ruin your whole day but I went and got the spare set and the car was fine.

However
Ive replaced the batteries in the fob and the little red light comes on when you press the button but the car does nothing.
My alarm fob has a red button (arm) and a grey button (disarm) and is a rectangle shape with a corner missing with a BMW roundel in one corner. NOT on the BMW key.

Anyone know how or if these can be reprogrammed as I'm down to one and it'll be a disaster if that one goes wrong too.

Ok, got it sorted now.

Turns out that the ETK is actually incorrect when it comes to this particular pipe.

The correct pipe is listed as 1 1 40 039 on the ETK parts list and this pipe is actually for non ASC equiped cars.
My car has ASC.

Will fit it tonight along with my fuel pumps with working sender which I received from jdgavrity.

No drips AND a working fuel gauge.......... Luxury!!!!