Beiträge von arnie

Hello, All,

I've been away from this forum for a while, doing other things, but a little while ago, I refurbished an AHK actuator and though that it may be interesting to post here the test-values for the actuator solenoids.

Again, like the ABS pump-block, the actuator is not located in the nicest environment and subject to the elements and heavy corrosion from salt (the stainless-steel cover is NOT sealed). The unit consists of a hydraulic block with 5 solenoid valves and two position sensors (variable resistors), both of which must give the same values for the controller to operate.

Please see attached PDF document for measured electrical values, which may serve as a comparison for checking another valve-block.

[ATTACH]28498

I doubt that EEPROMs would re-flash themselves, but with the age of the electronics, now, it is possible that certain capacitors have started to fail causing the fault to appear once the voltage is reset (flat battery). Very odd, nevertheless.

Sorry to hear of your gearbox problems. it would seem, from what you've written, that it's a problem with the actual gearbox. However, have you checked the throttle-position sensor? This links with the gearbox and I had an issue where it was faulty and indicating intermittently 100%, which would put the gearbox in Transfailsafe mode, as it could not work out what the engine was doing (gearbox RPM did not match throttle position). If you can get even a cheap Carsoft clone diagnostic interface, that can tel you quite a lot about what the gearbox is doing.

Zitat von anguswolfendale;116945

.. If you end up doing all this, you would be well advised to have the BMW KDS wheel alignment check done afterwards. Here in the UK it is £150 +VAT!!! BUT four tyres are much more

http://www.8er.org/forum/showt…highlight=rear+suspension

Having noticed uneven wear on my front tyres, after replacing the suspension links, I figured that a KDS might be in order. Just called the local dealer and was quoted £365.40.

Have prices increased ?

Rear tyres are actually fine with little and even wear, so do you think a tyre-shop alignment just for the front might be all right, in view of the price of a KDS?

The tyres have about 9,000 miles on them from new.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26537/

Whilst at it, the other thing I was going to have done is to change the auto transmission fluid, but I understand that probably only 4 or 5 litres will be renewed as the rest will remain in the transmission oil cooler and the torque-converter. That was estimated at around £187 plus cost of filter in sump.

PM sent for parts

ditto, two sets, probably.

in around 2006/07 the RHD (No.10?) returned from Brunei eventually sold for c. GBP £55k

Sad to see any car in that state, particularly such a rare one. However, for someone wanting to use the car (as opposed to a pure speculative investment), I think you'd get 99% of the fun and 90 % of the pleasure, from a CSi. Choice I made when offered No.10 (I think it was) some years ago. Additionally, If it's been in open weather for over 10 years, it will need more than just a respray: There are bound to be quite a few rusty areas on the body and suspension frames needing attention. And, if fitted with AHK and other goodies, which have been inoperative for all this time, it will be another area of concern as to whether they still work. . £30k is probably a good estimate.

Note also that the 416 BHP mostly came as a result of the flowed exhaust, which the UK, RHD cars did not get, as it wouldn't fit with the steering column... and not all of the 4 cars were based on the cSi, meaning, on one or two, no AHK, no uprated front wheel bearings, no reduced-ratio, speed-sensitive steering, no engine oil cooler (?), no cSi quilted interior panels etc.

Real OEM shows the Ignition Lead part number as follows, without mention of M73 version. Therefore there is some difference in the M73 part:-

• Part 12121733007 (Ignition harness with marten repeller) was found on the following E31 vehicles: E31 850Ci Coupe, M70, AUTO (EG23) : ignition wiring/sparkplug
  
  
  • E31 850Ci Coupe, M70, MANUAL (EG13) : ignition wiring/sparkplug
  • E31 850CSi Coupe, S70, MANUAL (EG93) : ignition wiring/sparkplug

  
  

I don't know what the differences are, but

• it could be to do with the plastic trunking enclosure that is included with the leads (you could re-use your existing part?)
• length of leads?
• Connector on Inductive spark sensor lead?

You can check here: http://www.en.bremi.de/

http://www.en.bremi.de/fl/resu…search=Modify+your+search

However, I could not find any part number listed for the M73, 5.4:

http://www.en.bremi.de/fl/resu….4:240:M73%20B54:26418:12

But for the M70 and S70, there is a part-number listed:

http://www.en.bremi.de/fl/resu…0-280:M73%20B50.56:538:12

You might try sending an email enquiry.

Zitat von ukzero;118785

The M6 was my original choice, but I love the panoramic glass roof (not available on the cf roofed M6) and also love the 40 mpg, cheap tax and insurance of the diesel, but most of all, I love the 427 ft/lb of torque from the twin turbo

And thanks for the comments Timm. Will tweak when I get a moment.

Yes, I know many (including one guy who could afford any car on the planet) who have opted for the 635d (or the newer 640d) and are they are all extremely happy with it because of the performance with combined economy. I think over 90% of all 6-series sales in the UK were diesels. Also, according to reviews the 635d is arguably a better car than the newer 640d. You could almost get that torque from an 850 cSi, but not at 40 MPG.

Your name's been on this forum ever since I can remember and so we'll definitely be sorry to see you go. The 6-series is a fine car and a few months ago I was almost tempted by an 2005 M6 version with the V10.

Thank you for all the reply guys. It appears that I should check the toe-in setting on the front wheels. The steering links (and thrust arms) are new, so hopefully, there won't be any rusty nuts to loosen. I agree with Terry, that the camber can also have a big effect, but as far as I know, it's not adjustable?

I came across this tech info (attached), which may be useful, as it describes all the suspension set-ups including that of the e31.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26189/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26189/

Hello,

I was looking at my front tyres and noticed that the outer edges are excessively worn, compared to the rest of the tyre. This is about 7,000 miles since replacing the tyres (Goodyear F1) on to e39 alpina softline wheels (18": 8J-18H2-ET20 with 18" x 235 / 40 tyres)

It could be that the toe-in is incorrect. Although, the wheels have an et offset of 20 and a 10mm spacer (with hard-alloy concentric shim to match the bore) has been added to bring it back to et 10 of the original 17" BBS wheels. However, I read that the e31 should have an et value of 15-25 ?
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/t…w_wheel_and_tyre_page.htm)

Does the e31 have a tendency for uneven wear on front wheels?

thanks

I thought I'd post a quick few lines on the Idle Control Valve. Just cleaned mine the other day with a little solvent (alcohol) and then re-lubricated the rotor with a few drops of engine oil, such that rolling the body of the valve back and forth, the internal rotor could be felt to spin freely with its inertia. This has made a noticeable improvement on engine starting, with engine revs briefly touching 2000, before quickly settling at 700. I had cleaned the ICV a couple of years ago, when the car was stalling at junctions, but over time. it gets dirty again. So, it appears that it's worth cleaning it once in a while. It's just under the plastic engine cover, at the front and easily pulls out from the rubber gromet and clamp.

Had one sticky piiston on the front calipers and decided to change both at around £400 each. The rubber cover-boots around the pistons are the weak-spot and if water gets in with brake-dust and road salt, it quickly corrodes and siezes the aluminium pistons. On the new ones, I filled the boot with copper-grease, which will hopefully keep some dirt out. The above advice for regular cleaning is good advice for these brakes. At the MOT the other week, on the brake-test machine, both front calipers were perfectly balanced all the way from 0 to over 400 kg force and the rear from 0 - over 300 kg force at the wheels. (With the car at 2 tonnes, that's 0.7g deceleration)

Yes. However, you'll need to remove the centre console panel and/or the lower dash, knee panel above the pedals in the driver's footwell. And then the lower cover of the steering column.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/25375/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/25376/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/25373/ 8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/25374/

(Arrows indicate Bowden cable. Ignore red-circle in last picture: that's the Airbag connector)

It may be easier to check that the problem is not at the ignition-key end as there is less trim to remove to access that.

I think that the replacement of the key lock barrel is only necessay if the key does not always turn properly in the lock, indicating wear of the lock tumbler pins. The (easy) replacement of the barrel requires a working key, hence the advice to do this ASAP, before it wears too much.

The ability to move the gear-lever out of P is linked to being able to set the igition key to Poition-I or II, and for the key to be released when in Position-0, the gear lever needs to be in P. This link-up is done mechanically through the bowden cable. Perhaps getting some oil to the moving parts, and, if possible inside the cable sheath, may help free things up. Whilst at it you can also lubricate the gear-lever pivots, which dry out and make the gear-lever movement stiffer than it should be. It won' hurt to try to get some oil into the key-lock as well.

Zitat von koenig dave;116123

The prices are indeed going up Harry, but is anyone buying?
To be fair it is a very desirable car and a good colour combo.

Several years ago, I was offered an identical car (the exact same paint-colour/interior combination also with spoiler) and 40k miles on the clock with a 1999, V registrtation. During the test-drive, the car had the orange ABS warning showing and the dealer wanted to 'get rid' ; so after a few days, phoned to say I could have it for £8.5k, comming down from the £10k advertised. That also included set of Schnitzer bolted rims, in addition to the original X-spokes.

Trouble is, at that time I wasn't sure about the spoiler, and was a little worried about what the ABS could cost to fix. Then, I ended-up with my present 840Ci, which has cost me a lot of time and effort on all kinds of things, including on the ABS, as it also eventually eded up with a regular ABS warning. Knowing what I know now, I should have gine for that car. Velvet Blue is indeed a nice colour and relatively rare.

Zitat von E31;80260

...There are two sorts of driving, track driving, and cross continent driving. If someone told me to drive to Italy, I’d hop in my 8 like a shot.....

Did just that in the Summer - drove to Italy and back - just the kind of driving it was designed for... and I say that even in comparison to an e38.

Zitat von E31;80260

... It is the ultimate mile-cruncher (and poser when you get there)....

... True as well ! Even the local Padre crossed the road to take a look.

Have you found the problem yet?

The usual cause of what you describe, as Timm has highlighted, is the ABS pump motor. Its location makes it susceptible to dirt, mud and rain.

The motor can be overhauled, but easier to sawp the motor or the whole hydraulic unit with one from an e39: 1996 - 2000 (after 2000, ABS system changed model).

The other cause could be water or moisture in your passenger door sill, which is where the control unit resides. If you had a windscreen replaced, check for water leaks.

Thank you!

MOT passed on Saturday, and so far, still fine.

(No errors from ASC system, either, so might originally have been a dirty connection on the original main-throttle pot- now swapped on to the ASC throttle and apparently Ok)