Beiträge von arnie

Update:

Drove home in heavy traffic and no errors indicated! No ASC light ! No Trans FailSafe !

So, having swapped round the throtte potentiometers, I now have a potentially faulty one on the ASC throttle, which I guess is not so crucial, but I am thinking of buying a replacement.

I can't seem to find any Bosch ones and the closest is probably this Hella one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELL…926229592?#ht_1688wt_1237

But I've always recognised Hella more for their lights rather than manufacture of sensors?

Looks totally identical, though.

Hello, Reinhard,

The diagnosis showed the likely fault to be the main throttle potentiomer ('gas-pedal position' readings all over the place when looking at the EGS live info.) However, I don't know why the ASC light would also come on, so initially I checked the ASC actuator and ASC throttle potentiometer, but found them OK.

Well, I removed the main throttle potentiometer and tested it on the bench (not so easy to remove, this one). It seemed to work fine (!?). Also checked the wiring, just by looking at the 3 terminals with an Ohm meter. The readings 5k and 450k etc between the wires was constant with moving and pulling the wires and connector, so hopefully OK.

Anyway, as a test, I swapped the main-throttle potentiometer with the ASC-throttle pot to see if the problem gets fixed and I'll find out on the drive home this evening.

Interestingly, the two pots are both the same part, are located within a few cm of eachother, and have identical connectors, which could lead to crossed wirinng if not careful.

It seems to me that the ASC actuator motor moves so fast that ASC throttle control is probably an all or nothing afair and therefore its pot only has to indicate on of the two extremes. I experimented with the ASC system by alternately disconnecting its actuator and its pot: The ASC light comes on immedaitely as soon as the key is in position-II, as this is when the system is cycled once for test. But no Trans Fail Safe error in this case.

That's why I am thinking that the ASC light must either have a separate use - also for highlighting a Trans Failsafe problem, (in which case, the light is a kind of red-herring); or otherwise a Trans Failsafe mode makes the ASC to be inoperative, which might also make sense. It's probably the latter, actually.

If I can get home without the Trans Failsafe re-appearing, then I guess it must have been the main-throttle pot as indicated. Co-incidentally, I Have an MOT tomorrow morning, so I hope it will be OK.

swapped the two potentiometers around

Hello, Tim,

Yes you are correct: The gearbox does not use the secondary throttle position info.

There are two throttle position sensors (both have the same part number): one for the main throttle and one for the secondary, ASC throttle. The one read by the EGS, is the main-thottle sensor and this is the one, which tonight I discovered was giving 100% throttle reading at Idle, which should be 0%, thereby leading to the error: Trans Fail Safe and ASC light.

The ASC actuator and ASC throttle position sensor had both tested OK off the car, and I cleaned and rechecked them anyway.

Not sure, why the ASC light would come on with the Trans Fail safe message, but maybe the ASC also needs to know the main throttle position?

.... or maybe the ASC light has a dual function - also to warn about Trans Fail?

( I had thought that the ASC light only could only signify the ASC throttle actuator or it position sensor, so started looking at these items )

No errors had been stored on the ABS/ASC control unit nor the DME: Only on the EGS, which gets the data from the DME through CAN.

Update:

I drove home with the trans failsafe message re-appearing a frew minutes on the road. Not fun to drive like that in heavy traffic. Carsoft diagnostics on the EGS showed a stored throttle data error on the CAN bus. Then 'Live Data' for the EGS highlighted the fault with the 'gas-pedal position' which (whilst idling- 0%) was intermittently showing 100% and other values in between, just as the trans failsafe error re-appeared after a reset. The rest of the gearbox readings appeared OK.

After exercising the accelerator pedal a few times the readings appeared again normal from 0 to 100%. This could be seen even with the engine off and key in position-II.

After a further reset of the Trans Fail message, the car was OK agaoin and was driving normally with no errors.

Looks like I'll have to replace the throttle sensor ASAP. It makes sense, though, as I guess neither the ASC or EGS can work properly without knowing the throttle poston. Interstingly, the DME had shown no errors. But, the engine running was rough at times.

(What I had removed and cleaned earlier was actually the ASC throttle potentiometer, not the main one,)

Update:

Have removed ASC-throttle actator and tested it on the bench. Seems to work perfectly, so not sure what the issue could be. Unless with its car wiring?

Also removed throttle potentiometer and tested it with multimeter. Its readings seemed consistant and repeatable (4 k pot)

I guess I'll find out more when driving home this evening

Hello, Tim,

Thank you for the additional input and information on the M62. I've just come back from a further tinker with it during my lunch break. The car was still behaving the same way:

Initially no fault (I think fault resets anyway after 20 mins when unloader realay removes power)
Initially shifting seems OK.
Then jerky shifting from N to D and from N to P, but no faults indicated.
Then immediately after, both the ASC light and Trans Fail Safe message appear.
Iratic engine idle going even very low < 500 rpm

Now, I think the clue may have been in the ASC light which I am not sure whether it is a normal companion of Trans Fail Safe?

So I did a quick reset by disconnection the batteries for 1 minute and tried again with the igition key in position II - no errors
Then, turned iginition OFF and in the engine bay, I disconnected the ASC throttle control motor unit.
Now ASC light on in key porition-II
Started engine and the idle seemed steady, smooth and normal.
Drove car around car park for 5 mins and gearbox seems to be working OK. smmoth shifts and no errors (touch wood).

So, my conclusion is now that the ASC throttle control unit may be the culprit or its potentiometer (does it have oine?)

Is this ASC ssytem used to reduce engine power during gear shifts? Otherwise, I am not sure what the connection to the gearbox is unless there is some other wiring fault?

However, the gearbox seems to be shifting smoothly again - at least during my brief test, which would prevously show the trans fail messsage.

So I am releived that it looks like not a gearbox problem (£££).

Maybe I will remove and clean the ASC control motor, and see if it helps.

Hello, Tim,

Thank you for the reply.

I checked the battery voltage with the iginition on: 12.34v at bettery terminal in engine-bay.

then I disconnected the batteries for a minute (easy with installed battery-switch) and tried again:

Engine started-up right away and no warning lights. very smooth idle and acceleration to red-line.

Battery Voltrage now 14.3 V at engine-bay terminal.

Waited a few moments with engine running fine and then Trans Fail-Safe meaasge re-appeared and without trying to shift gear. Engine-reving was now missing beats intermittently and idle not so smooth.

Could be that after a few minutes when engine adaptation kicks-in (after having disconnected batteries) the problem re-appears.

Have been reading that MAF problems could lead to this error?

Hello,

I guess this must be a sign that I've not been on this forum for a while....

On the way in to work, this morning, after driving for 10 mins, I could feel that the car didn't appear to be shifting properly at low speed. Then a few seconds later, the Trans Fail-safe message appears with the orange warning traction-warning light at the top of the dash. The car is stuck in 3rd gear, but I get to work and the during the drive, the engine idle appears a bit eratic.

Once in the car-park at work, I try to restart the car and it starts with a rather high idle for a few secs, which then setlles down, but is eratic and lumpy, and Trans Fail-Safe error is still there. I look under the bonnet and don't know why, but I think 'lets see if it's the MAF?' and so I unplu it and the engine dies. I turn of the ignition and re-connect the MAF, but now the engine starts and only runs for 0.5 to 1 sec. (I think the gear-lever selector switch is working OK, because for a split second the dash show the correct gear-lever position, befrore going blank and showing the Trans-Fail error)

I know I need my diagnostic kit, but being at work without it, I was wondering whether anyone may have any ideas?

Can the Trans Fail-safe error appear due to an engine problem?

Thanks

I bought my Beru L+R set a few years ago from a UK agent for GBP £170 and then tried to get another spare set later and the part was marked dscontinued. However, perhaps that might have been only for the UK? Anyway, glad you got a set. A second one might be useful, because, old-stock or not, I am sure pretty soon they wont be available and I thnk the lead sensors are already NLA from BMW.

Yes, I bought a new OEM set from Beru, complete with lead sensors. However, I think they are now NLA from Beru, who are now part of the BorgWarner group. The wires, plugs and crimps can still be has through the dealers, though. Else fit something like Magnecore, but with the latter, the resistance is providded by the length of the internal coiled conductor wire inside the lead and so this will vary with length and may not get exactly 6kohm.

That's right. Found the same thing on my 850Csi. They fail with heat, age and vibration.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

No problems at all with getting on and off the train- and we went out on the spilt deck carriages and returned on the single deck one for lorries and coaches - so OK for both.

In reply to Reinhard, at the German border, the official looked as if he was going to stop us as dodgy-looking characters until he noticed the kids in the back with their large Snoopy soft toy, sitting in the middle. In Italy, I had a few 850/V12 questions.

Yes, a couple more inches of headroom and leg-room would have been good for the kids. They grow so quickly and I'm not sure that they will fit next year. The two front seats were quite a way forward and therefore not much leg-room form me either. But, the fun made up for these little problems. Our boy and girl played the part of back-seat drivers, occasionally asking to go faster to check whether the windows still close at 100 mph.

Check out the 3-spoke, M-Sport wheels ex e38 and e39 (single stage airbag versions, prior to 2000). these are thicker and have the thumb rests.

Note that you may also need to change the thrust arms as well as the rubber bushings, particularly if they are still the original set. The arms have a bearing at the other end, which also wears out and is not replaceable. You can get new OEM Lemforder thrust arms from ECP, but the bushing need to come from a main dealer parts dept and you may need to give them something to press the new bushings in. If you count the cost of new arms, then Wolf's complete set is not expensicve.

I just returned with the family from a road-trip of 2020 miles to Italy and back. I've been meaning to take the 840 for some time and last weekend we set-off in the early morning (wife, me and 2 kids) to the channel-tunnel crossing in deluge of pouring rain. I was shocked to see that the MPG had dropped to around 22 with all the water being dispaced by the tyres. The rain continued through most of France, where the driving on the billiard-smooth motorways was fantastic and the feel of the car and steering improving with speed (I won't say how fast, but we got further on the first day than with any other car previously). The only incident was in France when we stopped briefly for a coffee and quick snack. I'd managed to park the car away from others and it was visible from inside the service station. As we were in the queue to to pay, my son noticed through the windows, in the distance, outside, the hazzard lights flashing and I thought that perhaps the alarm had been trggered due to the doors perhaps not having been closed properly. I sent him out to re-lock the car and he said that it was only the hazzard lights that were on, but no alarm. later, on returning to the car, we noticed that the front nose cone had been cracked with the grills knocked-out, presumably from some other car having reversed into it. The centre part of the nose-cone was cracked, with cracks extending several cm to the left and right of the centre grill. That was a bit of a blow, but we patched it up with tape and carried-on.

After crossing the St Gotthard by way of the 17km road tunnel, we spend the night in a small town in Switzerland, not far from the Italian border. That was uneventful execpt finding in the morning that someone had scraped the rear bumper of the car. Later, we were soon zooming down tne Itaian A1 motorway, passed Milan, heading south then turning in on the A15 towards Parma, where we lost all the mad traffic. Time for some fun again on the die-straight road with virtually no other cars. As the mountains approached in the disstance, the road started to climb with more twisting bends and bridges. I think its the same piece of road where the Top-Gear team filmed driving their suprcars. However, heavy loaded, with 4 people and luggage, the twisty bits were not so much fun. We spent some 3 days in Italy in a small town where the car atracted enough attantion. One morning, I even noticed the local priest cross the road for a better look, whilst the car was parked on a street for market-day.

Unfortunately, the few days of sunshine, good food and wine were soon over and it then time to head back to the UK. This time we took the car over the over the Gottard Pass to try out some hair-pin bends and steep ascents, which it managed very well. After that we took a detour through Germany and then back through France. My wife had got quite used to driving the car by then and liked the feel of the right pedal. We reached the tunnel boarder crossing 2-hours ahead of time but with long queues and thousands of others all returning to the UK at the last minute, it was about right. The passport-control officer commented " Lovely car, is that the 4.4 ? "

Yes, It seems that you have not applied the crack to the installation. There is usually a READ-ME file somewhere with the software which guides you through applying the crack and how to modify the files in the folders after/during installation.

Hello,

As the batteries are in parallel, if one develops a bad cell, it will cause the other battery to discharge.

If you have a multi-meter:

Try charging the batteries and then measure their voltage after leaving them standing (disconnected from the car) for an hour. You should read 12.6v or there abouts if the battery is good (voltage varies a little with ambient temperature- you can find voltage tables for lead-acid batteries through google)

If that appears all OK, you can use a multimeter to measure the current drain. You need only connect one battery (leave the other battery disconnected- at the negative terminal ) and make the circuit on the remaining battery through the meter to read amps or miliamps - again safest on the negatibve terminal. Close the doors so that the interior lights go out and place some tape on the pin-switch to turn off the boot light. Then leave the car for 15 -20 mins, during which time the unloader relay should disconnect all loads, except alarm and you should see the current drop from around 300mA to around 20mA, if all is well.

hello,

have you check the 3 fuses shown in the attached diagrams (from ETM-93) ?

(If all the fuses are OK, the only other item in the system -apart from the relay which you already changed - is the Crash Control Module)

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/23611/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/23612/8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/23613/

It sounds as if it's time for a new radiator. With age, the aluminium core furs up and restricts the flow. I would be inclined to replace the radiator, expansion-bottle (if of the early type), water-pump, thermostat and hoses. Some early water-pumps had plastic impellers, which could either come loose off the sahft or become erroded away. New ones, after a brief return to metal, are still plastic, but improved.

If you prefer a slightly different look to the e36 steering wheel (which was actually also offered on the e31 for a few years), you will find that the M-tech Sports steering wheels from the e39 (5-series) and e38 (7-series) prior to about 2001, when they switched to dual-stage airbags, are also a plug and play fit. They are slightly chunkier and some have the control buttons which could be interfaced to operate the radio. For whichever steering wheel, I think there was also an old post (by Revtor or Reinhard?) which gave the part numbers for the electrical plug shells and contact pins, if you want to keep things OEM.

Single-stage-airbag version required:

.8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22965/