Very glad to hear you got there in the end!
Beiträge von arnie
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Zitat von IvanT;112293
...did you fit the covers back while it was still 'wet', or did you let it cure first? My concern is the lack of space and having to manoeuvre a bit to get the covers in place. I don't want sealant all over the place.
Regards,
Ivan
I found that the Loctite starts to cure pretty quickly, so as soon as I maganed to cover all the surfaces (rubber gasket top and bottom), I put it all back together as fast as possible. I do appreciate that with limited room for manouvre, it could end up being messy. (Probably better to apply to the engine part rather than the cover part.) I don't know if it is entirely necessary to cover all the contact surfaces, but if you look closely at one of my pictures, you'll see what appears to be remnants of black silicone sealant on the cylinder head, ex-factory, and not just on the round recesses. Incidentally, I ordered new rubber Dowty washers, spacer-tubes and bolts, but found that the latter actually came comple with the rubber washers.
I do know that before I started the job, that the car has a poor idle, took an extended cranking time to start and the engine would die when approaching traffic junctions etc. It didn't take much more effort to do the rest, which included:
replacing belts and tensioner pulleys
replacing water pump, thermostat and seals
Replaced radiator (totally corroded)
replacing PCV valve assembly.
Replacing 2 rubber caps and two vacuum hoses (deteriorated, cracked)
Clean-out intake manifold and breather tube (full of oily deposits)
replacing breather-tube O-ring seals
replacing manifold gaskets
replacing injector O-rings
cleaning throttle valve assembly (sticky)
repairing, heat-damaged, outer insulation sleave of the battery cable running though engine V
Repainting various pulleys, oil-dip-stick tube and battery cable conduit.
The transformation in terms of how the engine runs now compared to before is like the difference between day and night. The engine is now very responsive and idles very nicely.
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Thanks, Reinhard. I'll pass that on to him.
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A friend of mine said that he noticed his left door-mirror pod (CSi/Mtech type) had popped of the door mount revealing three metal pins, with the pod left dangling on the electric wires. I've never managed to do this on my car, so was wondering whether this is just a pop-off, safety, feature and if so, is it just a case of pushing the mirror-pod and pins back into its mount on the door? (car is a late 1996, 840Ci, Sport)
Thanks
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Zitat von huldra66;109996
....Is there a separate fluid container for the clutch??
TerjeI see you 've sorted the problem, but - at least for the UK-model CSi- there is a separate reservoir for the clutch fluid.
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If your car is fitted with a limited-slip differential: Castrol Syntrax XJ-F (75W-140)
if you car is fitted with a standard differential: Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 or the aboveCastrol: "..... Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W-90 (Formerly SAF-XO 75w-90) is specially designed and fully approved by BMW for use in all BMW final drives fitted with conventional (non limited slip) differentials. Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75w-140 should be used for BMW final drives fitted with limited slip differentials ...."
The differential seals are not too difficult to replace, but the prop-shafts need to be removed and ideally also the rear exhaust boxes. Therefore, this is a job best done in a workshop with access to a ramp or lift.
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It's quite common for the seal to fail on the input drive shaft to the rear differential. If the oil was low before, you would not have noticed.
Unless you have the limited-slip differential, the oil you selected should be fine.
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The advice about replacing the spark-plug rubber connectors is good, as your existing ones will alsmost certainly have been damaged. In my view, the oil comes from two places: 1. improperly tightened spark plugs and 2. the rubber seal around the centre of the cam-cover. When I did mine, i used loctite, grey, 5699 silicone sealant all the way around the rubber seals -on both sides - as well as the 'half-moon' area. No new oil leak yet. Also, I ended-up just buying new cam-covers, as the magnesium on the old ones was powerdery and flaky and the new covers were not that expensive.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22732/
of course, whilst you're at it, you may wish to go further than just the valve covers:
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Zitat von philR;107390
......That was until I discovered that some spares are no longer available and some of the parts prices from BMW are stupidly expensive....
PhilYes, but like most car companies, BMW is in the business of selling new cars and although a few parts are now NLA, most of the parts can still be bought new, some 14 years after the last 8 series rolled-off the production line and more than 22 years after the first. Many parts are of course expensive, but i don't think that there is a huge mark-up compared to equivalent parts for a current model. As pointed out, it's still a £60k+ car, and 15-20 years ago, that was a lot more money than £60k today. A Ferrari 348 of that era was only a little more.
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Hello,
if the Battery light goes off after reving the engine and remains off after returning to idle, then, perhaps you can live with that, as long as the voltage is then controlled to about 13.8V (I think max is about 14.7v)
But if the alternator only charges at high revs, and not at idle, then it means that either
a.) the voltage regulator that controls the field current is not working properly or
b.) One or more internal rectifier diodes have failed (perhaps alternator is undersized or it experienced and over-current fault), or
c.) the drive pulley is the wrong size.Consequently, in either case, your batteries will not charge properly as most of the time the engine will be at around 2000 rpm when driving.
Also, if the regulator is at fault, you'll likely go beyond 14v at high RPM and then you may damage other electrical systems, which will be more costly to fix than an alternator. At least check that at high RPM you don't exceed 14.7 VMost Bosch alternators are pretty similar, but the one fitted to the e31 has a plastic air-intake plenum at the rear, which is fed from cold air from the front, left air-intake in the spoiler. It should be secured by three bolts, so make sure that the one you have is properly attached.
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Hello,
bellow is the circuit for the alternator. it appears that the Battery lamp may not be electronically controlled. The diagrams also show some fuses, which you can check. (if you don't have it already, you can download a copy of the Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual, ETM-95 and you will find this in section 1230.0.
The only reason for it to change brighnes with engine RPM would be if:
a.) your batteries a low and hence voltage drops as engine consumes more electrical power (ignition) at higher revs
b.) your alternator is partly working and hence its voltage changes somewhat with engine rpmHowever, as Reinhard pointed out, you should be able to check the voltage through the MID in test mode:
http://www.e31.net/OBCCodes_e.html
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/20678/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/20679/ -
Zitat von revtor;106945
...I'm still using the almost 20 years old BMW mobile phone but it works surprisingly well in my opinion.
Yes, the original motorola phone is very good indeed and it has 8W of RF power, compared to about 0.4W for the a typical mobile phone.
The hands-free microphone in the dash is, however, not very good at all. I have added also a Nokia CK200 BT kit with variable-colour illumination and the option of matching orange display. For ths the microphone is at the top of the A-pillar and works much better. The kit can use the telephone-mute connection on the standard radios and also the tel input on the Becker units and Business CD ...or a separate speaker, which is what I installed. It has full phone-book access and voice control. In the Uk it can be had for GBP £78.
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With the engine running, check the voltage at the battery terminal in the engine bay. This should be around 13.4v as mentioned. The voltage regulator is built into the alternator, so there are no other external parts, but be sure that the cabes to the alternator are secure. It's a bit of a fiddly job to get to these terminals on teh back of the alternator and one may be loose, if the elaternator was recently replaced. It could well be a faulty alternator, also.
The alternator and battery cable runs through the V of the engine and typically the outer conduit will have deteriorated, but that's another matter..
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Funnily enough, brushless, permament-magnet alternator technology with over 95% efficiency has been around for some time, but I guess fuel-prices aren't high enough yet.
I also tend to dislike electric fans, but they do have the advantage of being able to operate at full-blast when the engine is idling, which is useful in heavy traffic. But then, that why we have the AUX fan ... if it's not rusted-up. -
Yes, less weight, less wasted power. Did you know that the typical, claw-pole, alternator is only around 30% effiicient?
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With the steptronic box, the micro-switches in the gear lever mech can sometimes give this problem when turning on the iginition, if the gearbox does not know the position of the lever. Usually, it starts to happen when the lever is getting old and the car has been left standing for a while. regular use seems to fix the issue (bad or oxidising contacts?). Used to get this on my e38 after about 8 years.
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Note that there is the inner-wing, which is part of the chassis, and the outer-wing, which is the bolt-on removable part. The inner wing tends to rust around the holes for the plastic screw plugs which hold the plastic liner. Once rust has developed here it spreads quickly, so worth taking a look under the plastic liner, the next time you are doing some work in that area.
If the outer, bolt-on, wings are rusty, unless the affected area is very small and localised, I would not bother with a repair as it will probably be more cost-effective to replace with either new or good, used. And as phil has commented, you'd still need a repaint afterwards. -
It might be in Tim's write-up but after disconnecting/reconnecting the bateries, you'll need to reset the sun-roof and windows one-touch-opening by fully opening and closing the windows and sunroof.
The hazzard warning thing I found is common to all BMW of the same era and I think it's related to the crash detection system, where the hazzrad flashers are supposed to be activated and door unlocked. -
Continental Wintercontact are very good and easily available in UK.
Though, I'm not sure I'd want to use my 8-series in snow/ice. -
Yes, I recall I did write one post on the subject- and as it turned out, the dealer was still the cheapest option for the OEM fans. However, Gerry did a full-coulour write-up on the fan replacememt with two SPAL fans on a custom-made plate.
Zitat von philR;106555Alles anzeigen
...In simple terms I suppose all that is required is either to transfer the bracket and wiring connectors from the BMW frame to the Kenlowe frame, or (if it is feasible) fit the Kenlowe motor and blades into the BMW frame.
Hopefully someone will come along who has attempted it.
Phil
the OEM fan is held on by three mounting pionts on its plastic frame, approximately at 120 degree spacing, onto brackets which are part of the radiator frame, ptotruding through the core. These would be too difficult to modify without risking damage to the radiator, but an adapter panel or plate could be made to facilitate fitting a different fan.
The new fan I bought from the dealer was identical to the old one and will probably still fail if it gets subjected from too much road salt-spray and water. It's a cheap design with little or no protection for the motor. Once rust develops internally, the magnets come off and jam the armature. You might be able just to swap out the motor part from the original fan, if you find one of te appropriate size, but i don't think that would be easy.
