Beiträge von arnie

Note that the speedo overestimates by about 5 - 7% anyway, so a few % more or less won't make a difference. Important thing is that the front and rear have roughly the same diameters.

Larger tyres also put more stress on the front suspension and steering linkages, so bear that in mind too.

If you are considering 285 rear, then the combination used on the Alpina B12 5.7 might be a good guide.

More than 285, there may be issues with rubbing on the wheel arch, although I think some have managed to use these larger sizes without problems. It will also depend somewhat on the wheel offsets.

Zitat von philR;106518

I have started to look into replacement tyres and would appreciate some advice.


I have 18” wheels and using a tyre calculator the tyres size required to give a match as close as possible to the original 17” wheels are 235 40 18 front and 265 35 18 rears.


I assume the size of the front tyres will not affect the speedo reading therefore is there any advantage in fitting 245 40 18 tyres?

Thanks.


Phil

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The two sizes you quoted (235 40 18 front and 265 35 18 rears) work very well and are available as Goodyear F1, which have a good rim protector built-in and stick to the road like glue. It's also the size combination used on the e39, 5-series, so it's kind of BMW approved. (I have these fitted on my car). Note that not all possible sizes are actually available from different brands and some sizes can be considerably more costly, if not that common.

I think there was a How-to-Post by 8-tech (Gerry) on how to fit a kenlowe fan. If I recall correctly, you don't need to modify the radiator, but you do need to redisign the mounting arrangement. Not sure that it worked out any cheaper in the end, if you consider the additional time.

Silicone insiulated cable can be very good for temperature resistance up to around 180c, but the material is softer and tends to break or tear more easily. Good PVC insulation will go up to 105C operating temp (standard 80C), but you really don't want your cables to get anywhere near that hot. Not even half of that. The ultimate would probably be airframe cable (EFGLAS) isulated with PTFE and glass fibre, with nickel plated copper strands. However, the strands are comparatively of large guage and so it's not very flexible.

Yes, it will stay on for about 15 - 20 minutes. After this, the "unloader" relay will de-energise and turn off all electrical systems, bar the alarm, and one or two other things, which have permanent, +Batt, supplies, such a the radio, engine ECU etc.

Also, any interior lights accidentally left on will also be turned-off.

This gearstick indicator is a good way of telling if the car's ancilliary systems have turned off properly, when diagnosing a possibly battery-drain fault. (They think of everything!)

If you are replacing a short section of wiring loom, say from the connector socket to the headlamps, then the actual wiring colour, I would say, is not important, as long as you replace wire for wire and end up with the right connections. The size and diameter of wire is, however, important. The electrical manual will give the wire diamaters required. Note however, that you will either need to find automotive wire or electrical equipment wire. The latter will tend to have thicker insulation, but will have approximately the right number of strands to match the automotive type of wire, for flexibility. Electrical mains distribution wiring will probably not do.

I think that wiring cable is indeed available from BMW by the meter length, but only limited colours.

The dificult part will be replacing the crimp connectors in the various plugs. The AMPhenol pins and contacts are best obtained from the dealer (as many are discontinued by AMP or only special order). You will also need an appropriate crimping tool (or soldering iron) and one or more tools to disassemble the existing connector shells and extract the existing pins/contacts.

It may be a 'clean' job but it's also a time-consuming and fidly job. (...and that's speaking as an electronics engineer).

If you can find a donor loom, for a late European car, I think that will save a lot of effort.

Zitat von philR;106457

....Interior needs a bloody good clean not looking forward to that, a trip to Halfrauds may be in order to get a good leather cleaner although I may start with a weak solution of Fairy liquid in warm water. Any recommendations?


Phil

Congratulations of the car!

I found that a regular solution of clothes washing liquid or powder (Persil, Ariel etc) with a damp cloth works very well to remove in-grained dirt. Follow with a rinse and a good quality (no silicone oils) leather cream. In truth, the leather cream (or the soap/detergent solution, for that matter) will not really permeate the leather as the acrylic dyes (paints) used are quite impervious, but it will make the leather feel softer for a while.

I haven't looked on any system, but was ordered 3 weeks ago and the price increased after the dealer quoted, so go it at the old price, even though it cost the dealer more. I picked it up 10 days ago. It may have been UK stock?

Christoph,

Fanstastic pictures of the lovely 507. Thank you. Interesting to see that even back then they has a 50:50 wieght distribution (720 :780). Immaculatey clean chassis, but I guess for 1 million, you would expect that.

To add to Reinhard's post, the cost of the steel sunroof panel has just gone from GBP £228 to GBP £280 + VAT.

Maybe try to find a used one on ebay. Have that cleaned and tested and then swap it over. This may save you from having your car oof the road whilst the unit is being reconditioned.

Zitat von Nifty50;106121

.... This begs the question, is there an E31 anywhere that has neither EDC nor Sport?....
....

Yes, there is the standard, non-sport suspension. EDC was offered as an upgrade option on non-sports models too.

For the 840ci the "Sport" package (in the UK) included the CSi styling kit- spoiler mirrors etc, anthracite roof lining, sports suspension or EDC, sports seats, quilted door panes, 17" staggered wheels, and maybe something else that I've forgotten.

I believe in the UK the 840Ci (Sport) was available either with M-sport springs/dampers or EDC springs/dampers, but both were considered 'Sport' and EDC was more expensive. I've tried it in my friend's car and the option of the Komfort setting is great for smooth motorway cruising and around town with pot-holed roads. The S setting appears marginally firmer than the M-sport set-up, and of course EDC is supposed to react better to cornering and dynamic situations. However, even EDC-III only has two valves on each damper to provide the different settings, which effectively only gives 3 settings: one-valve, the other valve or both open/close.

If we could get an infinately-variable ferro-fluid system that could be great....

Zitat von 8Tech;106036

....The Brembo "brake kit" mentioned here are bigger and better than the standard brakes Brembo supplied to BMW for OEM fit on the E31 ...
8Tech.

I wish I'd known about that before buying new calipers for the 840ci. ... at £400 each

Still, with completely new calipers, discs, pads, hoses and refurbished ABS, it does stop much better than before.

So what's a good upgrade for a CSi?

Don't forget the mis-fire sensor on lead 6 of each bank.
I guess this is working, though, if it's registering a mis-fire.

Complete oem lead sets were available directly from Beru - maybe they still are - for about half dealer cost.

Gerry can provide up-rated leads and coils, but I believe he mentioned some time ago that the lead-sensors were no longer available,

The OEM system uses copper-wire leads with a resistor in each plug, giving 5.7 kOhm end-to-end. The magnecors use a thin coiled internal wire which itself has about 3 kOms per meter resitance, and no plug resistors. The suppression characteristics may therefore be different.

not very expensive brand new - i think

Yes, if too much windscreen polymer bonding mastic was used, and the rubber trim replaced around the screen while the bonding mastic was still 'wet' it will have embedded it self into the excess mastic, leaving the edges of the mastic shaped to the profile of the rubber trim. In which case, it will be extremely difficult to get the rubber trim back in without first removing any excess mastic. There should be an unobstructed water-way channel beneath the rubber tim, down the sides of the windscreen. If this is blocked, water will get trapped and cause rust.

Also, if you play with the rubber trim 'seal' too much to try to make it fit, it will stretch and then not fit properly. You'll then neeed to let it rest a while.

The Csi exhaust is completely different to the 850. It has larger diameter tubing. The Cats are made of a rolled metallic honeycomb core, which offers lower back-pressure than the standard ceramic monoblocs. The backboxes and tail pipes also differ, as they have large stainless steel pipe tips.

I'll try to get you a picture, but from memory I think mine look like those on the diagram.

Perhaps your system has had new cats installed as the coupling pieces appear further from the ends of the cat. Do you have the centre crossover-box?

see this link:

http://www.wuffer.ca/MyFiles/S70EngineManual.pdf


.

I have a couple of new (OEM) rear CSi boxes, which I am about to fit, but I might be able to take some pictures of them for you before I do.

However, after the cats there is an X pipe 'box' and then after this, the two rear boxes. These were about £400 each.

Most of the exhuast is of stainless steel, but the rear boxes have an outer skin of galvanised steel and this eventually rusts through. I wouldn't hold out too much hope of finding a used original system in good order, and I think very few people will refit an OEM exhaust when a new one is required.

Ok, Just finished taking another look at the car.

With the air-bag removed and the connector under the steering column unplugged, it was possible to meter 0.2 ohms at this connector end ( steering wheel-side plug, auto shorting-link engaged) and inf. ohms at the other end where the plug is that connects to the back of the airbag. Hence, it would appear that wiring is broken somewhere, perhps in the coil-spring assembly.

Opportunity to fit a three-spoke wheel me thinks.

(I am hoping that the seatbelt switch error is just a red-herring)


Thanks to sll that replied. It was a great help.