Beiträge von arnie

  • Another SRS light

    Revtor,

    Thank you for the information. I had vaguely remembered reading that somewhere in the past, hence my question as to whether it applied to Euro-GB.

    That's the problem with carsoft. Sometimes, t's not specific enough. Unfortunately, I lost or mislaid my GT1/Dis unit.

    I'll take another look at the airbag circuit, since I had forgotten about the shorting connectors.

  • Another SRS light

    Zitat von Timm;105274

    It is worth saying (although I am sure you are aware), the SRS connectors have a built-in shorting system, when the connectors are un-mated, the two conductors are shorted together.




    It definately is worth saying because I'd forgotten about this. :)


    Thanks for the pointers guys. I'll spend some more time on it tomorrow and try again.

    I'm also in the middle of some major house renovation work and for the life of me I can't find my GT1. Spent 3 hours looking for it tonight :banghead:

  • Another SRS light

    I am trying to help a friend with his 1997, 840ci. The car started having intermitrtent airbag light faults, which have now become permanent (can't reset).

    The Carsoft diagnostics show two faults:

    1.) Diver's Airbag Ingnition Circuit
    2.) Driver's seatbelt switch.

    I know that Carsoft is perhaps not always 100% on such matters but I cannot find and seem to have lost my 'yellow brick'.

    Anyway. The steering wheel airbag and connectors, on the steering column and behind the airbag checked out fine, including 0.2 Ohm resistance on the actiual airbag. So, that leaves the Seatbelt Switch. Can anyone verify if Euro-GB cars actually have this?

    All the connectors under the driver's seat were also checked and disconnected and reconnected to no avail.

    The main connector to the airbag control module, under the centre console was also checked and appeared OK.


    I've looked at the wiring diagrams on the '95-ETM and it seems that the seatbelt switch alters the resistance to a connection to ground. If there is a switch, which of the under-seat connectors would it terminate at, as I'd be able to check the operation, if the connector is there?

    Any other ideas?

    Are seatbelt switches a common failure?



    Thanks

  • Banjobolts again x 2

    Yes, I quite like that system, Reinhard.

    (I never could understand how spring washers would prevent bolts from undoing..)

    We have been using NordLock washers at work for some 20 years. Particularly on transport, aerospace or military equipment, they do work very well.

    But for banjo-bolts, normally a soft crush washer of copper or aluminium is used (like on oil-drain plug) to provide a seal. The Nordlock washers would not provide a tight seal, although I suspect a tiny leak would not matter too much here.

    Still, I think your method looks simple and very good.

  • Banjobolts again x 2

    It's would be best to replace the banjo-bolts completely. The pre-applied threadlocker may work, but you'll never be sure. It may be OK for a year or two and then... However, I guess for the threadlocker to have the best chance of working you'd need to degrease the female threads.

    I would buy a set of new bolts and then drill the heads so that they can be wire-locked, or improvise a fold-over lock washer. Also, I am sure Nordlock washers would work well here, but as they fit in pairs, they may add too much height (?)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I

    ..

  • Part Suppliers

    Many of the suspension parts are manufactured by Lemforder, part of the ZF group. Fortunately, some of these parts are stocked by Euro-Car Parts. The lower, front, aluminium wishbones even have the BMW logo, which is ground-off.

    The 840Ci has Brembo brake calipers and it may be possible to buy replacements directly from Brembo. Brembo-brand discs - normal or slotted- and pads are available on ebay for reasonable prices. Phoenix motors can supply brake hose and other parts which are better than original.

    Also, if you go to your dealer with a large shopping list (use www.realoem.com or similar to select the parts), they will probably agree to a reasonable discount. Certainly 10% is usual, with maybe 30% or more on large-ticket items such as exhausts. For trim parts and some engine parts there is no alternative.

    For radiator and cooling-system parts, if you want OEM, then the dealer is the only option. ECP used to stock Behr radiators, but I understand these were built to a lesser standard to compete on price with Nissen and others. Although, Nissen is not bad. The auxiliary fan is manufactured by Siemens and I found that going directly to the manufacturers stockist was more expensive that through the dealer.

    For A/C compressors, ebay is full of generic Chinese Nippon-Denso copies, but don't know how good these are.

    Finally, BMWMini Parts (http://www.bmminiparts.com/) usually has a good selection of BMW Genuine consumable parts (brake parts etc) as well as certain odd parts from old stores, at quite good prices.


    (PS I hope you bought the ABS parts from the ebay listing of that breaker. I spoke to the seller and the ECU module was on offer for £125 with wheel sensors at £22 each.)

  • Restoring the interior wow factor

    I think preparation is the most impostant aspect. The old BMW leather dyes (as with most leather trim in the 1980's and earlier) used to be lacquer based and hence would split or crack over time. However, from the 1990's and hence the 8-series, the leather was dyed with acrylic 'paint'. this too will wear over time, but it's much easier to re-coat as these 'paints' are water-based.

    The work is probably best done with the seats removed from the car, as well as much of the plastic trim from around the base and the back.

    I think to get the best results and to ensure good adhesion, the old surface should be scrubbed with a very fine Wet&Dry abrasive paper and throuroughly cleaned and degreased. Some leather 'protection' products use silicone oils and if these are present any water-based paints will have a hard time adhearing to the leather. Clean the leather surfaces thouroughly with water and a good washing-machine clothes detergent and allow time to dry.

    Alternatively, a small amount of alcohol (isopropyl), about 20%, in soapy water with on a soft cloth can be used with care to remove any grease. If used neat, it will remove the old dye (paint), but may also dry out the natural oils from the leather.

    The new paint can be sprayed on with a small air-brush, but many just dab it on with a sponge. A number of thin coats with 24 hours to dry in between is best and will result in a more even appearance.

    Once the dye (paint) has dried the leather surface will be more or less impervious and so some suggest that it is probably best to treat the leather with conditioner before final cleaning and painting, but the downside may that that any residual oils on the surface may prevent the new paint from adhering properly. So, I don't know about that.

    This site has some useful info:

    http://www.leatherique.net/leathercare.htm

    .

  • Hello

    Zitat von TERMINATOR;104988

    If it turns out to be a defect ABS control unit, and you need one, i have a spare .


    The ABS pump from a e34 also fits.(it's what i have in my car now)


    Also be aware of, there is two types of ABS wheel sensors for the 840 (front), so make sure you buy the right one.


    Might depend if it's an 840 4.0 or 4.4. The latter have the Bosch 5.0 ABS/ASC+T as on the e39, but for the 4.0 the e34 system may be the correct one.

  • rear window replacement

    Yes, you should insist - as is within your rights - that Autoglass use OEM, BMW glass and not some generic copy, which in fact they probably won't have for this car anyway.

  • Hello

    Zitat von philR;104975

    ....Of all the faults on the car the one that is causing the most concern is the ABS light which is remaining on. Through this forum I have been talking to 8tech and his words of wisdom have got me thinking and I have to admit a bit worried about the purchase of this 840. Apparently the ABS pumps and ECU’s are not available and the second-hand market is limited and full of pitfalls, i.e. there can be many variations between the years which means any replacement must be matched on part number.



    Phil




    The pump units for the 840 are identical - part number and all- to those fitted to the 5-series from 1996 to around 1999. They are in plentiful supply and mostly in good condition, since in this car, they were fitted in a sheltered location, high-up in the engine bay. They normally go for less than £50 on the bay.

    The ECU controler, on the otherhand, is specific to the 840 in terms of firmware, if not hardware; but the units are not DIY programmable and so spares are either from a breaker's yard (rare) or from a dealer (£850 incl VAT). Usually, however, this part is quite reliable unless it has suffered from water damage, hence check whether there is any dampness in the front passenger footwell. The controller resides forwards in the door sill area. A badly fitted replacement windscreen can leak, allowing water to accumulate under the carpets.

    If you have a new pump already then, most likely, the cause of the ABS light will be due to wheel sensors which tend to pick up ferrous debris on their magnetic tips. In this case, cleaning is all that is required, although they can take some effort to extract if the wheel hubs are rusty.

    see http://www.8er.org/forum/showt…highlight=abs+pump+repair

    The story is much more complicated for the 850i, or 850 Csi, which had earlier versions (3rd gen) of the ABS and ASC+T systems, which were separate and complicated units. In the 840i the system is a newer version (5th gen) and fully integrated into a single pump/valve bock.

  • CC67466 - This is it...

    Thanks

    After you have done it once, I think it's definately do-able again in a couple of hours. Looks a lot worse than it is and there is nothing that requires more than basic tools and a bit of patience.

    I think I only lost one plastic tim cap by the end of the process.

  • Introduction

    The Bavaria-C is indeed a nice unit and has the added advantage that no-one will want to break in to the car to pinch a radio-cassette. They are however prone to failing display pixels, as the one I have unfortunately demonstrates.

    Just wanted to point out that the main original wiring still comprises of the BMW 17-round-pin radio connector and as such, there are other more modern BMW head units that will 'plug&play'.

    I think that the 'Splitter' box you require may actiually be a protocol converter for the 'P' changers which use the M-bus. The 10-disc Sony CD may work directly.

  • Introduction

    You may wish to install the Bavaria-C for originality. But, have you considered the Blaupunkt CD-43 (Rover-badged versions on ebay for £60), which can take and operate a Connect-2 iPod interface (£50) with just a simple plug-&-play connector, included?

    Also, the Becker Traffic Pro or similar (Cascade or DTM or Indianapolis etc) is a worthwhile upgrade with GPS and other features. Even though its illumination may not be a perfect match, it does fit well with the car's interior styling.

    In other words, there are many options.


    By the way, I think that the 10-disc changer was more or less a standard Sony Unit (with the Sony UnilInk control bus). The vertical (P or Pi) unit was made by Pioneer.

    Cables etc here:
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.ht…NILINK+XM+RADIO+M+BUS+NEW+



    The M-Bus, which applies to the 'P' CD changer and BMW Business RDS Cassette etc, seems to be an Alpine development and info can be found here:

    http://www.hohensohn.info/mbus/index.htm

    .