Due to the current changes in the exchange rates please note that the price is 7400 NOK not necesseraly 850 euro.
Since the first post was written the NOK has strengthen against the Euro and 850€ is now 7160 NOK which is 340nok less or right now 42€.
May not seem a lot, but that means we may lose 42€ times 50 people, which is 2100 euros, and we run the risk of running out of money.
When you make the payment, make sure you actually transfer 7400NOK after all fees ect are paid.
The problem is that Haholmen is only accessible by boat, meaning they would have to bring you to the mainland in the middle of the night, this is something we need to check if it possible.
Also 8 hours may be slightly optimistic, I think I would estimate 10 hours to be on the safe side.
Guess splitting up the trip may be a better option.
Atone want to join us? Still a few available places.
too bad Daggi, as this trip is kind of your fault 
The Norwegian e31 club has planned a 5 day west coast tour of Norway starting August 3rd.
The journey starts in Stavanger and end in Kristiansund.
The tour will take 5 days which includes 4-8 hours of driving each day.
Below is a list of the dates, the planned route and an estimated cost.
We have limited this to 25 cars for practical reasons and hotel capacity.
The estimated price for all hotels, breakfasts and dinners is 7.400 NOK (approx. €850).
This price is for each person in a room, and will include almost every meal except lunch when we are on the road.
for single room it will be about 150€ extra.
This has to be pre-paid May 1st due to reservations and cancellations at the hotels.
In addition to this there will be some ferries, toll roads and fuel.
If you need more info just ask.
Due to several factors we have limited this tour to 25 cars, and there are a limited number of available places already, so if you want to go, you have to decide quick.
Best regards.
Club E31 Norway.
Terje Nordhus
Jan Pedersen
Tor Jamne
Pål Rønning
Egil Sandvik
Day 1.
The tour starts in Stavanger on Monday 3rd of August 08:00, you need to get there yourself, from Europe the easiest way is to take the Fjordline ferry from Denmark directly to Stavanger where you will arrive in the morning where we will be waiting at the terminal for you.
This day will include an estimated 6,5 hour drive to Fleischers Hotel in the city of Voss including ferries.
We are taking the scenic route and will stop at some nice sights and at some stage we will stop for lunch (not yet planned).
Arrival time at the hotel is not determined, but we will have dinner when we arrive, Fleischers hotel is an old classic hotel part of the Norwegian Historical hotel association.
http://www.fleischers.no/en/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29619/
Day 2.
We start the day by driving from Voss to Flom, today we will drive around 3,5 hours.
When we arrive in Flom, we will leave the cars and take the Flom railroad, this is called the worlds most beautiful train journey and takes 55 minutes. We will take this to the end and then back to Flom.
https://www.visitflam.com/en/s…amsbana-the-flam-railway/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29620/
When we return we will at some time drive to our next hotel which is Kviknes hotel in the Sognefjord, and depending on the weather we may drive through the 24.5km Lerdals tunnel, or across a very nice mountain pass.
If some people really want to drive the tunnel, we can split the group
At the hotel we will have dinner.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29621/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%C3%A6rdal_Tunnel
http://www.kviknes.no/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29622/
Day 3
We leave Sognefjorden in the morning and total driving time for the day is about 4,5 hours, through mostly twisty mountain roads.
More to come on today’s events and sights.
The goal of the day is to get to the Union Hotel in the Geiranger fjord.
http://www.hotelunion.no/en/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29623/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuW2KbzleZc&feature=youtu.be
The hotel has a small collection of their old hotel cars that we will be visiting.
Day 4.
Todays driving time will be about 4 hours
We will drive from Geiranger were you could take a photo like this famous one of your car.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29624/
We will make a stop at the "ørnesvingen" view point.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29625/
Then we will drive down the Trollstigen, a piece of road that TopGear said was one of the roads you had to drive before you died
But before we drive down we will stop at the tourist center on top.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29626/
and check out this view point
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29627/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29628/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTlsgKVilYI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuEWbFsoxY8
After that we will continue to drive up to the Atlantic road outside Kristiansund.
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29629/
And its famous bridge
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29630/
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29631/
Once there we have arranged to stay at Haholmen where we will stay for two nights, fishing and relaxing. This is an island so we will have the cars parked with guards at a closed off area and we will be picked up in the viking ship and taken to there we will stay.
http://www.classicnorway.no/hotell/haholmen-havstuer
8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29632/
Timm.
I tried your PDF, did not work.
After about 13 seconds I heard that it tried to do something, but the roof never tilted.
The roof cover on my car is lose so that may hold it back though. just not sure how to get that out without dropping the roof-liner.
Maybe I'll just wait until I get my roof redone.
I've been having this issue for a while, but had it on my "to-do" list of future projects.
My roof is not working properly, it's out of sync or something.
Happened after the car sat with drained batteries for a while.
1. it slides too far rear and disappears into the cars roof.
2. when closing, it stops with a 4-5cm gap remaining.
3. to close the gap I have to give the tilt command, roof now closes.
4. as the roof is now closed after the tilt command is given, it will not tilt any further.
If I press the open command (switch forward), it will open to the same 4-5cm gap.
I have tried to reset the roof by removing disconnecting the command switch, and then give the tilt command for 10 seconds. did not help.
the reason it has been on my list for a while is that the roof liner around it has started to come lose, and I was planning of re-doing the liner, however this is also dragging out in time, so i thought I better get the roof fixed for this season.
Any thoughts on how to reset, or do I have to try and pull it out and rebuild it?
As a 6 year e46 M3 owner, the SMG is the least of your worries. fuel pump, alternator, subframe cracking..... those are things to be more concerned about.
very fun car to drive, I planned to keep it 2-3 years when I bought it, ended up with 6.
replaced it with a -12 M550d touring, was looking for some more comfort and a more practical daily driver.
The e31 has been driven a whopping 2 tanks of fuel this year, might be able to get one more out of it before winter storage but I doubt it.
Few things to tinker with over the winter, but I hope to get some more use out of it next year, wasn't anything wrong with it this year, but it just didn't get used.
Hold on. This a 840 or 850?
850 has two pumps, one for each cylinder bank.
there are numerous things that can cause the pumps not to start on the v12.
1. Hidden fuse is broken. 2" from the battery under some heatshrink is an 80A fuse that breaks due to metal fatigue. This will result is now power to the pumps.
2. Check fuses in the fusebox first of all, look at the list on the fuse box cover, should be between fuse 20 and 25 if memory serves me right. Two fuses, one for each pump. These are powered by relays, which power is controlled by the hidden fuse.
3. crank shaft sensors. These are located in the 2 and 5 o'clock postion on the small flywheel at the front of the engine, the one that looks like a big gear. These sensors gives pulses to the engine DME, which then triggers the relays powering the fuel pumps. No pulses, no fuel.
then there is always a chance the relays have seized or failed.
On the v12 when you crank, it gets no fuel before the DME senses the pulses from the crank sensors, then it starts the pumps, hence the somewhat unique startup sound of the V12.
putting the key in position 2 will not provide power to the pumps as on most other cars.
I would locate the fuel pump fuses, pull them, and measure the voltage while cranking, if you have power to both pumps, then I would start to look at the pumps, if not, the list is above.
not questioning your mechanic friend, but these cars are somewhat special, and normal troubleshooting does not always apply.
if you have a v8, this will not apply and I cant help you.
Thanks Timm.
had a hunch it could be that one, guess this will tie in with my planned ac panel service.
any clue where I could get this one? Ebay perhaps.
I have used swissvax leather products as I find these to be the best out there.
this is a restoration done by a friend of mine on some 1986 porsche chairs using swissvax leather colour. This was colour matched using a 1x1cm piece cut from under the chair and sent to swissvax to be analyzed and colour matched.
the text is in norwegian, but I guess the pictures are the interresting part.
http://www.detailersclub.no/fo…ng-av-skinnstoler-by-tcs/
here is a video of the swissvax leather cleaning kit.
I use this all the time on my cars.
the kit contains a leather cleaner, but they do have one that is extra strong for really dirty leather, think it is called leather cleaner forte.
They also have a leather softner, I used that on my e31 buffalo leather seats, and now they are as soft and much thinner leather.
I think by using these products and a few hours you should be able to get your interior looking much better.
Welcome to the forum.
1. first of all, people dont remove the csi front from a car unless it is damaged, or the car is scrap. So used ones come up extremely rare.
best to buy one from bmw, and get all the fixtures you need right away.
2. X-pipes and exhausts can be had from engl or wokke on this forum. However if all you want is a little more sound try to remove the rear silencers, many have just replaced those with straight pipes with exhaust tips on.
3. Lower suspension on the market is from KAW.
http://www.tuningstudio.de/pro…-830i---850i-ci-csi.html/
This issue started last year, and I just dont know what is causing it.
bacically at 20c setting I get full heat, and at 19c setting I get full cooling.
it is as if the temperature regulation is on/off and not regulating.
the fan is ok.
keeping a steady temperature in the car require constant adjustment
I know this system has a myriad of valves to control and channel air to the right place, all controlled by small electrical motors. Have been thinking that if these valves have lost their position calibration the system might act strange.
so, is there a way to re-calibrate the AC system, or do I need to take it to someone with a diagnostic tool to have it done.
Or has my AC controller failed?
or perhaps the temperature sensor in the center console has failed?
maybe I have blown a fuse somewhere?
any clue where to start looking?
Thanks.
Yes dark colours are hard to do.
My friend on here Huldra66's wife has a black e93.
She won a polish at some pro-shop at some event.
I had a look at the car yesterday and it looked terrible, you can see where they have used the machine, not sure what you call it in English, but in Norway we call it "tracks".
Find it hard to believe that a polishing shop will actually deliver a product like that, I am an amateur, and I would be embarrassed to return a car like that.
Last week I sold my E46 M3 after 6 years of ownership.
Looking for something more comfortable and practical I went for a 2012 ///M550xd Touring.
Alpine white III, and with all the necessary "bells & whistles" from the options list.
An absolute monster when I want it to be, and a comfortable luxury car to glide along the country roads, don't think I will miss the M3 at all.
In my personal experience I have been very happy with Michelin Supersport. have them on my 8, and on the M3 I just sold.
after 10-12.000km they were about half worn, and the grip is great, no tramlining at that wear level, so that is a tire I would recommend. but I guess they are on the pricey side.
Great job.
Haven't got around to do my 850 yet this year.
I am biased to Swissvax products though.
Use a Flex machine and I like the Scholl pads.
My thread from last year, not nearly as in-depth as your job including wheel wells ect.
http://www.8er.org/forum/showt…ng-my-850-(Huge-pictures-!!)
Reasonably quick, at the moment about 5 sec 0-100km/h (4-speed auto), still has a little to go before the map is perfect.
We have been doing this remotely over the last two weeks, using remote desktop and a wideband O2 logger.
I have sent results after test runs and John has remotely adjusted my map from Switzerland.
At the moment the air fuel mix is where we want it to be, and next is to look at the timing to get a nice even power curve.
Due to both of us having things to do we are now at a pause in the tuning, so the final result will be in the near future, sometime this summer.
Target is power is 470hp and about 600nm.
John's site is http://www.boostedlogic.com you will find contact details there.
I spoke with him yesterday, so he is around, though he recently moved to Switzerland and just started a new job so he does have his hands full at the moment.
We are in the process of perfecting my engine map at the moment so we talk regularly.
Zitat von CaifanSC;119246Aaah....yeah, that's similar to the problem all these SMG cars have when doing things like parallel park. I hear it gets tricky :). Thanks for the input Reinhard.
After driving an e46 M3 SMG for close to 6 years I have had no problem what so ever parking, or any other maneuvers, like slow crawls, queuing ect. it will release the clutch depending on your throttle input, nice and soft and it lets it off smooth and easy, sudden and long travel of the throttle and it will let it off quicker and harder.
The only bad thing about them is that they downshift automatically when the rpm drop below a certain level, usually 1000rpm.
This meant that entering a intersection or traffic circle in 4th, the car will downshift to 2nd at the worst possible time, and take "forever" to shift.
It require a slightly different driving style, and you have to plan and downshift early in some cases to avoid this.
After checking my clutch with the diagnostic tool after 140.000km, it is not even half worn, in newer cars I believe an SMG/DKG clutch life will exceed that of a manual. For the early versions like the Alpina shiftronic that may not be the case.
Personally, I doubt I will ever own a car with 3 pedals again.
You may be right wolf. I just hope that with my car not being used in the rain, sitting in a heated garage only getting wet when washed or if it rains on one of our tours and the treatment it is getting it will be many years before it comes back.
