Beiträge von Noggie

    Zitat von wokke;118657

    As long as the car doesn't remain on the ground while you're lifting the hoist there is still hope ;)


    Most important is that you have the inside treated properly otherwise you'll see this again in no time.


    We save on nothing here Wolf, so it will be treated both innside and outside, I don't believe it will come back.
    Besides, my car now sits in a garage, and will not be taken out on wet roads unless I have taken the car on a road trip or something and the weather change.


    I will continue to edit the first post with updates.

    Well guys, thought I'd share my small winter project.


    Just before the end of last years season, I happened to be under my car for other reasons, when I accidently managed to knock off one of the rear jack-pads.
    To my horror I found that the metal was.... well crispy like a cracker.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26241/


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26242/


    To better asess the damage I pulled the side skirts and peeled away the loose rust and metal.
    When I pulled the side skirts there was about 1kg of sand on each side, so I guess it must have taken forever to dry, and has probably contributed to the rusting process.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26243/



    Then a few pictures of the left side.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26244/


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26245/


    And the right side


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26246/


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26247/


    Fortunately I have a friend who works at a BMW bodyshop, so he has taken on the job of fixing it.


    These pictures were taken today (12 March), Most of the rust has been cut away and tomorrow he will start to shape new metal and weld it in.


    Left side.


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26248/


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26249/


    Right Side


    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/26250/


    The car should be back on the road again in a week or so depending on the paint.
    Fortunately there was nothing on the rear fenders so all the paint will be under the skirts when they go back on.


    Just a friendly advise. Pull your jack pads and have a look, or better yet, pull the side skirts and get rid of any sand that may have accumulated there over time.
    I will for sure pull mine regularly from now on.

    I run 9,5" fronts et 0mm and have no outer wear, I also have camber plates and run about -1,4 degrees camber. had this setup for 6 years without problems.


    I think you have either a toe in issue or TA bushing issue.

    Zitat von TERMINATOR;117752

    you are not an easy man to please....:grin2:
    Its not ///M ... but how about ACS ??
    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/25990/



    That is closer, no rush, i just need it in place before we drive to München in May.
    we can talk about it off fourm.
    not sure if i want piano black or not, I did plan to paint the canter console in piano black.

    Summers are usually quite slow.
    I have found myself logged in less this summer than usual, for various reasons.
    actually I think various Facebook groups are taking a bit of the forum traffic.
    There is a lot of traffic on the Norwegian E31 facebook page.


    Think things will pick up in the winter when people will start their winter maintenance and the car is parked for the season.
    I know I have projects this winter.

    With just ~1200 m73's ever made, some lost over the years the chance of one popping up on the market is slim, and there will never be many available.
    I belive there are just 4-5 of them in Norway.


    If you want a late model e31, get a fully loaded -98/-99 840 sport.


    Of the ~30.000 e31's made, ~22.000 was made from -89 through -94. so there were just ~8000 cars made from -95 through -99, and I think ~6000 of those were 840's.

    I have a spare set in my basement, but I'm offshore at work so I cant measure them.
    Once I get home on monday evening I just have 32 hours and I will be on a flight to Korea, so I'm not I will be able to do a measurement then either.

    No the phoeninx ones will not fix inside wear, they will make it worse, the wheels are tilted in by an extra 0,6 degrees. I think my front wheel camber is -1,35 degrees with these.
    The inside wear suggests that you have the wrong toe-in (or in Norwegian -"spissing")


    I have had a set of these on my car since 2008 and I love them. my tires have not worn uneven because of these, but I had an incident last year where my wheel alignment was off after a shop did my upper and lower oil sump seals, a drive to Sweden was enough to make serious damage to my tires.


    If your tires wear on the inside your wheel alignment is wrong.


    This is a bit hard to get 100% since most e31's have a lot of play in the steering (box).
    My car just got new front tires, and Wokkes uniball TA "bushings", this eliminated much of the play I had in my steering, just the one in my steeringbox is left.
    When the alignment was done they did their best, my alignment is good, but my steering wheel is not center, and I will just move it one tooth on the spline to center it.


    With Wokkes TA bushings, new tires and wheel alignment I could let go of the steeringwheel at 170kph on the autobahn.
    At 200kph you could have a relaxed two finger grip on the steering wheel all the time.


    Bottom line.
    Should you get these, I say yes, if you get your alignment fixed they will not wear the tires uneven, you will reduce the outside wear that is more common on these cars.


    As of now there are not many options, K-mac make on request, but I was not happy with the quality of the K-mac I had on my e36 8-10 years ago.
    I know Wokke is thinking about something, but there is no solution yet, so it could be quite some time before the product is available.

    Great job, looks stunning


    I know that feeling, spent about 8 hours on mine,
    I just washed the car today now that I'm back from Vienna, where I had some engine issues (MAF failed), plus that got a lot of work done to the car at Wokkes two weeks ago, I need to do parts of the car again.:dontknow:

    Thanks guys, I will order a pair in case the other one fail.


    Managed to get my MAF in place and just secured the plug with a plastic tie, car run just fine, so it's an acceptable temporary fix.

    during my trip to Vienna one of my MAF's failed, and with the repetitive removal and installation this connector after 23 years was brittle and bacically broke in several pieces in the end.
    Right now I am not able to meet the correct key in the connector, and the part you screw is no longer fixed to the actual plug, so I am unable to connect the MAF.


    Short version, I need a new one.


    I just spent some time in the parts catalog, but I was unable to find this plug, or even the harness with this plug.
    Anyone know if I can get just a new plug? and can help me with a part number?

    First of all Jack thanks for a great weekend, I had a great time, and got to see much of Vienna, and met some very nice people from this forum.


    Many may have noticed the black car at the end of ther row of cars with a lot of people working in the engine compartment.
    I did have trouble with my car when I came to Vienna, but thanks to the effort of the forum expertice "on site" a lot of troubleshooting was done.


    A special thanks to everyone who got their hands dirty trying to fix my car Saturday and Sunday evening, there was too many for me to remember, so I choose not to mention names in case I forget someone.


    It turned ot to be a broken MAF sensor, and this proved to be hard to get in Vienna, or in Hamburg, where we was taking the car train to on Monday evening.


    Richard aka Smileitsme offered me to borrow his, but he was in Linz, so after spending a few hours on Monday trying to get a new one from BMW, Jack was kind enough to borrow me one from his car.
    So we got in the car, went to see Jack, and took a MAF from his car.
    Now this is anopther great example of how great this community is, Jack immobilized his car so that I could get home.
    Jacks MAF was installed in my car, which fired right up and ran smoother at idle than I can remember the car has ran for a long time, so I guess this MAF has been going bad for a while.


    I made it home without any issues, and Jacks MAF is now in the mail back to him.
    So another big thanks to Jack for taking parts of his car to let me make the journey home.

    Zitat von revtor;111991

    You are mixing up the fuse numbers: Fuse F23 is for the fuel pump of cylinders 1-6, fuse F24 is for the fuel pump of cylinders 7-12 and F25 is for the auxiliary fan. Judging by the description and damage to the fuse socket, I assume there is no issue with fuse F23 and fuel pump 1-6. Fuel pump 7-12 on the other hand is powered as soon as fuse F24 is inserted. If the short is in the fuse socket, it has to be between F24 and F25 because F23 is not powered (just as F24 should).


    Utoi: I've never taken apart the fuse box so I'm not sure how the fuse carriers are mounted. Maybe the pictures in this topic are of any help?


    IMPORTANT: Disconnect the batteries when you take apart the fuse box!


    You are right, I did this by memory, and my memory is not correct.
    I'm leaving for Dusseldorf - Prague - Vienna in a few hours so I really did not have time to check the diagrams, too busy getting my bags packed, and the house prepped for me being away for 2 weeks.

    Zitat von reinhard;111975

    ...and how do you think did the oil get into the distributor cap in the first place? ;)


    You will likely need to check/replace the shaft seal (17) and gasket (15) behind the rotor - else it is bound to happen again.
    8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22560/


    Cheers
    Reinhard


    It's ordered, and waiting at Wokkes place when I get there tomorrow :top:


    My car was parked for so long that the blow off valve for my compressor was stuck, I think I may have had a pressure build-up in the engine during my first test runs this year after I replaced the crank shaft sensors.
    This may have been the cause for this, but the seals will be replaced none the less.


    Thanks for the tip anyway :)