Beiträge von Noggie

The fuse 24 will not get power unless the engine is cranking or running. with ignition on there should be no power to fuse 24.

Since you say the pump stops when you pull the fuse the short is between the fusebox and the relay, looking at your fusebox (melted) I would say that is the first place to look.
The short will be on the supply side of the fuses, so i.e pulling the fuse #23 will not help.
Looking at your fusebox I would say there is probably a short from fuse #23 or #26 (assuming fuel pumps are #24 and #25).

I have no clue how to open the fusebox, but I guess you will have to find a way, and check the wiring under those 4 fuses.

In Norway they allways use reversers, then apply wheelbrakes at the end before exiting the runnway.
Thought that may be due to short runnways, and placement of the runnway exits.
I have no clue about Airbus reversers but I believe you can apply throttle with the reversers on 737's and technically reverse the airplane if you wanted.
I hear the engines spool up with the reversers so they are using throttle.

But like I said, I'm not familliar with Airbus, In Norway 90% are 737's, and then some smaller jets and turboprop's. I usually fly SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) and KLM.

Aircraft brakes are a bit different though. Not knowing what plane you fly, but fair size planes youse thrust reversers to take the bulk of the braking, then just the wheel brakes in the final stages.

In case you wonder, I have worked as an avionics engineer on F-16's and 737's for 10 years when I was younger.

An F1 track is very big, and will allow for a lot of room for mistakes so you should be good.
Just be aware of your brake and tire temperature.
I did 5 consecutive laps on the Nurburgring and on the 4th lap my brakes and tires were starting to fade.
On a small 1km local track I never do more than 5 laps because of brakes and tires.

I have been running 10w-60 oil on my 850 since 2009, great oil.

I used to do some track driving a few years back.

Brakes and tires.
When braking use the brake hard and short. normal road braking will make your brakes fade very quick. To brake early and slow is a big NO NO !! early is ok, you will find the right braking point after some laps, but braking slowly is bad. look at the brake pedal as a switch, either you brake 100%, or nothing.
Tires will overheat, so be aware that your grip will start to fade, and eventually you will lose it entirely, the time from starting to lose grip until you are skidding out in the sandtrap/barried is short, so when it starts to go, do a slow lap to cool things down and go to the pit and let the car rest for a while.

If the engine gets hot, don't stop it, put your heater on maximum heat and leave the car running at idle until it has a normal temperature.

Think I found the reason.
Yesterday when I was out driving my engine kept dropping one bank when the rpm dropped, i.e at crossroads, traffic circles ect it would only run on one bank leaving the car virtually without power, and then at 1500-2000rpm it would kick back in.
This led to a few situations I was not very happy with.

When I got home I opened my distributor caps and found the one for cylinder 1-6 with a bit of oil in it.
Cleaned this out, used electrical cleaner, and went out for a drive, was a bit better but not 100%.
Went to a friend and we cleared the fault memory on the car, and when we started up the engine it ran ok, disconnected the Maf's and there was a distinct change in the engine sound.
Plugged everything back up and drove home, and since then everything has been fine, Have had the car out for 6 trips since and it has been running on all 12 all the time.

My high idle is also gone, making me think I had spark issues on one bank due to the oil filled distributor cap, and the car somehow compensated for that.
My transmission is also much better now that the idle is back to normal.

Think you have a short in your fusebox.

The pump is given power from the relay, no relay means no power to the fuse.
So if the pump is running with no relays, the fuse is getting power from somewhere else.

Zitat von wokke;111898

Although no one has asked yet I'll let you know the price of these arms
It's €279,- per set plus shipping.

@ Egil: I have a used X-brace as well as upper control arms in stock.
We can mount it on Friday while we also fix your exhaust issue.
And if you don't like it I take it back and you get a full refund incl. the labour cost.
I can afford to make this offer because I know you won't give anything back

Cheers
Wolf

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If it is that quick a job, it's a deal.

Zitat von reinhard;111903

Not sure whether this conclusion also applies with the installation method employed by BMW.
Not installing the "protection tube" increases chances that piston & seals get damaged leading to a premature failure.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22518/

Next time over you may wish to contemplate installing that 5 EUR piece of plastic

Cheers
Reinhard

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Actually that very thought did cross my mind, but my car did not have that on my old shocks, nor did the bilsteins come with them.
The front ones did I think so perhaps that is why they last longer.

Zitat von ThomasR;111858

Excellent work. That's the way I like it. Especially black and also red are very thankful colours for detailing with mirror effects. Terje what wax are you using?

Since I did the work I can answer.

I used a flex 3401 oscillating machine.
first P2 hologram removing polish and Scholl medium pad.
Then Swissvax Cleaner fluid and a Scholl fine pad.
Final coat is Swissvax Concorso wax.

And that is how the mirror was made.

A little update since I started this.

I have had an incident with sticky brakes on my car, so the other day I took them apart and serviced them, the pistons where OK, but the pads were sticking in the calipers, and the gliding pins were not moving as well as they should.
Since this my cars handling actually improved, the unstable braking is gone, so the car no longer pulls when braking, and the tramlining has also improved quite a bit.

While doing my brakes I did notice that my front tires, now 6 years old was not worn even, this was because of a front wheel alignment issue I had last year.
The shop that did my upper/lower oil sump seals did not do an alignment after the front subframe was off the car, and I drove 1500km to Sweden before this was fixed.
It took it's toll on the tires, but the alignment was done and should be OK, but I guess the damage was done, the tires are old and ready to be replaced anyway.

When doing my brakes I noticed both rear shocks looked like this.
These have done less than 20.000km, or one has done 20k the other just 10k as it was replaced 2 years ago, so the conclusion is that Bilsteins are crap shocks that does not last, to bad there are no other good ones out there.
Both had evidence of leak as you can see, and the bump stop has been on the shock a lot meaning they are bottoming out.
No doubt they are affecting my cars handling.

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22515/

I'm off to Wokke before I'm going to Prague, and then Vienna, and Wokke has a new set of Bilstein shocks and new front tires for me, so hopefully the car should handle well in Vienna.

Question is, if the rear are like this, what about the front shocks???

Haven't checked level, the car has done less than 500km since it came from the transmission shop where it was rebuilt.
I thought it was the high Idle that did it.

I'm taking the car to the tranny shop to let them test drive the car as they was not able to before I got the car back.

Looks like my car is stuck in cold start mode or something.
I have had an issue for a while where i really have to stand on the brake in D or R or the car will just take off, also it has been running extremely well "off throttle", by this I mean I hardly have to touch the trottle at low speed to maintain it, mostly at speeds up to 60kph I almost have to adjust the speed with the brake, not throttle.

When driving today I put the car in N at a traffic light, at this time I had been driving for almost 30 minutes so everything was well heated up.
When I put the car in N the Idle was 1000rpm. Much too high, and I think this is also the reason my car maintain speed so well.

When I got home about an hour later, it was back down around 600+ rpm.

What controls the Idle, I guess the DME's, but I they do this based on some sensors, and what sensors control the cold start? intake temp sensors? water temp sensors?

And has anyone seen this high idle issue before?

Zitat von steveirl;111701

The car looks excellent after the polish.
Is the Flex machine a standard rotary polisher??

The one I have (XC3401) is an oscillating polisher, but they come as rotory too. but I'm not good enough to get a good result with a rotory polisher, it's much easier to get machine marks, oveheat the paint, and simply grind away the paint in corners ect with a rotory maschine.
An oscillating maschine is very forgiving, easy to get a good result and wont overheat the paint that easy. the downside is that it's much noisier so you need ear muffs.

Zitat von 8Harry8;111610

...carbonschwarz afaik

Yes the M3 is that... or carbonblue is a more fitting name.

A few more pictures of the end result. (the wheels are not yet done)

the reflection on my roof, like a mirror

Some pictures of my M3 in the sun that got the same treatment last week

Nope, BMW Schwarz (not Schwarz II), so flat black, no metallic or any paint effects, just plain simple black.

No I did not do any measurements, dont have the tool either, the technique used is not very hard on the paint, i.e not very abrasive, will remove the oxydation layer on the paint and some of the washing scratches, but when looking at my paint you still see some scratches here and there, but it is much much better than before.
My car was repainted at some stage and they did a poor job and has to be done again, so the thikness should be good.

Took a few hours, and now it's raining so I will keep it in the garage

I was aske on Facebook to do a writeup after I posted some work-in-progress pictures on the Norwegian Facebook group.

I just did my 850 using professional level detailer equipment and products, and I have spent 8-10 effective hours on this job over the past three days.

Step one is to thorrougly wash the car, dont have pictures of this, but use a good de-greaser, let that sit, then snowfoam the car, followed by a rinse, new foam and handwash.
I pulled my car into the garage, dried it and left it over night to compektely dry with the help of my garage dehumidifyer.

This is my starting point, and it actually dont look to bad, on the pictures that is, all taken with my phone so not the best quality I'm afraid, all are unedited in any way.

Now that the car is dry, I tape up all the rubber and trim that is not to be polished using masking tape.

So on with the work then.
I start by using my Flex XC 3401 machine and a medium Scholl polishing pad, and P2 hologram remover polish/rubbing compound.

Here are some results from using the above.
Can't see very well here, but there is a difference.

On my headlamp pod though the difference is spectacular, I thought I had a black car when I started, but it may have been a dark shade of charcoal.

Now I'm quite happy and the paint looks much better.

After this, I change to a fine Scholl pad, and use Swissvax pre vaw cleaner fluid.

Now it is finally time for the wax, and I use Swissvax Concorso for that extra deep shine, this is appiled by hand with a small pad, in a barely visible coat, the advantage to this wax is that it will not leave any trim white, nor will the wax dry on the car, but I leave it on for about an hour.

Yes, there is wax on the car.

And this is the end result, sadly it's raining today so I will have to come back with more pictures later.

They are pressed. they are the same as the e31 bushing, but it has more rubber in it so it flexes less, though flex more than the powerflex ones.
I think the oem 840/850 bushing is no longer sold, and the CSi bushing is now for all e31's in the ETK. the M5 one is a step up from the CSi one

I think the Wokke solution may be the best, using a spherical uniball bearing with a thin rubber surrounding , this has virtually no flex, should improve handling, last a long time, though will lower comfort and increase noise.

Zitat von TERMINATOR;111418

I have the same problem on my 840 Egil.
I'm running 245 in front, and with the horrific roads here on the "west coast" the car is all over the place...
If i understand correctly the wokke lower control arms should fix this problem (so i have heard)..
It is definitely worth a try. Don't know the price, but i guess we could ask him;-)

Looks like it's one of the e31's burdens then and that my car is probably ok.
I replaced those 5000km ago with e34 M5 bushings.

I'm going to Wokke in two weeks time, and I've prepared a list of things I may want done to the car if the cars should spend the next winter in Germany

yes, I'm going to Wokkes in a few weeks, may have to place an order

Also want to do the lower x-brace and strong strut modification, probably a winter project next year.