Beiträge von Noggie

I used to run 2,7/3,1 but dropped a little back in 2011, I tried to run 2,5/2,7, but this year I went to 2,7/ 3,0. I may try to drop both by 0,1 bar. genererally add 0,1 bar pr 10mm tire witdh increase, and also add some for lower profile tires(bigger wheels). so this says to run max 2,8 on 265/40, I run 275/35 on 3,0 bar, so added 0,2 bar for the wider tire and lower profile.

Yes I see your sticker, odd, I usually run close to the high load values since I on previous cars have experienced that this appears to reduce the tramline.

my M3 says to run 2,3-2,8 on 225/40 19 (front) and 2,4-3,3 on 255/35 19 (rear) I used to run 2,7/3,1 on that setup, but they wore quick, now I run 235 front at 2,4 and 275 rear at 2,7. and this appears to be good, though perhaps I good go 2,5/2,8.
I'm buying a compressor for my garage, then it will be easier to play with the pressures, now I have to go to the petrol station every time.

mcat911.
I have Michelin Supersport rear (replaced less than 1000km ago) front are Michelin PS2, these are frem -07, did notice they had been worn a little too much on the inside, probably due to wrong toe-in last year, thought I'd have the replaced this year, or at the start of next years season. could very well be the difference in tires that amplifies the little slack here and there.

e31Gixxxer.
so you actually run lower rear pressure than front, interesting, never seen that before. (referring to door stickers on various BMW's I've owned) my e46 M3 has 2,4/2,7 bar on the same wheel/tire setup, and that runs perfect (MS Supersports F/R).

I could have a look at the pitman arm, good tip, but I fear my steering box is what really needs attention, and a new one is almost 3000 euro.

You mean item #10 on this right?
Nut/bolt #11/12 and #8

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/22221/

I had items #3 (both sides), #9 and #14 replaced back in -08, and #15 again in 2011 along with the TA bushings.

I've allways had to adjust my driving when getting into the 8, usually takes me 20-30km to get aquainted with the cars quirks and behaivior. though this year I just thought it was worse than before.
Having had the car 7 years I have replaced a lot of parts on it over the years so you would think it would be in pretty good shape by now

This has nothing to do with improving hendling, upgrades or anything like that, but how does your e31 handle.

I think mine has issues, I'm unable to pinpoint where to look, and I just wanted a "second opinion" where I want to know if your e31 is the same, or not.

My car, -90 model m70 auto, 19" wheels, 245/275 tire combination. pressure 2,7/3.0 bar Front/rear. eibach springs/ bilstein shocks, done about 20.000km, and phoenix's fixed camber plates.
Car just had MOT with no remarks on bushings og anything else. most bushings have been replaced in the last few years, TA bushings replaced with e34 M5 ones less than 5000km ago.
Pitman arm bushing replaced twise, last time same time as the TA bushings, though I know my steering box does have some slack in it.

So to the way my car handles.
at speeds sub 100kph the car is "all over the place", it follows the groves in the road with a passion I believe this is called tremelling or something in English. basically just crusing along a country road in 60-70kph you have to be on your guard constantly because the car can at any moment veer to either side, and I'm constantly have to fight opposing tremelling with my steeringwheel.
When breaking the car also tend to follow the contours of the road, so during hard breaking I have to catch whatever side the car decide to pull to and counter with the steeringwheel.

When I get to about 110kph the car is much more stable, at 120 I can more or less relax, at 140+ it's a dream to drive and the car is rock stable.

Anyone else have this issue with their 8? that low speed stability sucks, and at high speed it just a joy?

Since all my bushings appear to be ok I'm starting to wonder if my wheel alignment is off, I'm also seriously starting to think about getting a new steering box, or overhaul the one I have.
I've had my alignment checked a few times, last year adjustments was made to my front axle, and the year before my rear axle, but I may have to take the car inn for another check now.

Since this is somewhat related I will ask this question here, mostly due to the adaptations coming up here.

I did the swap from a 3.45 to a 3.15lsd on my M70 850, 4 speed auto.
After this swap I find that the car does not change up to 4th gear before around 85-90kph, while with the 3.45 diff it was much, much earlier.
After my swap I find myself driving around the Norwegian country roads (60-80kph speed limit) mostly in 3rd gear.
3rd gear see me cruising at 2000rpm at 80kph, which is not bad, if I manage to get just above to get it to shift into 4th, and drop down to 80 it will hold 4th gear just over 1500 rpm. in 4th I do 100kph at 2000rpm.
Is this late shift to 4th normal on stock cars with M70 4 speed auto and 3.15 diff?

My main goal was to try to save fuel by doing the 3.15 swap, now it may actually turn out the opposite, I will save fuel when om motorways, basically from 90kph and up, but due to the new gearing I may actually end up using more fuel on smaller roads where the speed typically is 60-80kph. (or I may end up speeding a lot)
Since my car is now using 3rd gear a lot more than before the car actually feels nice and quick despite the diff change.

Since nobody appears to know, I will update this myself.

I re-seated all spark plugs and coils a few times, and disconnected all injectors while the car was running to verify all cylinders were running, after this everything appears to be back to normal.
did not touch the O2 sensors.

Any tell tail signs?

Reason I ask is because I had my car with a tranny shop and got the gearbox rebuilt.
When I got the car back it did have starting issues, which was the crank case sensors. With these replaced the starting issues are gone, but the car is running very rough, especially at idle, during driving it appears to be ok, power is ok, but it's rough on idle, engine shakes and it's like it's not running on all cylinders.

Could the tranny shop have crossed the O2 sensors?
Or have my car just developed some new issues?

Diff ratios depends a lot on what car you have, and different ratios work different on different E31's.
It all comes down to if you have a 850 or 840, US or Euro, 4-speed auto, 5-speed auto or 6 speed manual.

A 3.23 will work well on 850's as the euro M70 4-speed auto come stock with 3.15, though I doubt you will see much of a difference to a 3.23, so look for a 3.45 or 3.64.
The M74 came with 2.81, and again a 3.15 is a good swap
Almost alls 6-speed manuals have a 2.93 diff (except the 4.4 840 that has a 3.08), a 3.23 swap should make it a little quicker, but it might be just as good to get a 3.15LSD from a 750.
840's have different ratios based on if it is a 4.0 or a 4.4.
I believe the 4.4 has a 2.81 diff, so changing to 3.15 should make ha pretty impressive difference.
The 4.0 has a 2.93, again a 3.15.

So in a way the only ones that should be looking at a 3.23 are the ones with a 6 speed manual.

As I see it, unless you have a M70 850 4-speed auto you should be looking at a 3.15 LSD from an e32 750 (88-90 model)
If you have said 850, then a 3.64 may be the way to go.

technically not just this winter, but since the last time the car was on the road.

-installed 3.15 LSD diff.
-rebuilt gearbox
-changed crank shaft sensors.
-checked plugs, but they looked good and was not replaced.

Fluids were new last year and the car only saw 1500km last year.

Remaining items before summer (June).
-Install new interior
-make blow off valve recirculation system
-install Wokke transmission lock-up unit (55kph instead of 85kph)
-rebuild exhaust.
-install new FTP lights

The drive shaft coupling/bearing can be replaced. not a big deal. part #1

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/21603/

The exhaust, well, yes supports and flange clamps bolts/nuts tend to rot away.
I'm not sure about the manifolds, not often you see those needing replacement.

And success.

Pulled 7-8 plugs and they were dripping wet with fuel.
also found that the plug wires on cylinder 2 and 11 was not fully seated so I pretty much had a V10.

Car started right up and was cleaned and taken for a drive to get the rust off the brake discs.
Now all I need to do is get the 6 month overdue MOT done and things are good.

One thing I noticed while driving was that I found my rev's to be high, at 80kph I had 2000rpm, I was expecting far less with the new 3.15 diff.
Using Timm's gear calc I should have had 110khp at 2000rpm, further tinkering with the gear calc showed that I may have been in 3rd gear, because then my speed vs rpm makes sense.

Update.
After some time away from home for work, and ordering new parts I finally got time to replace the crank shaft sensors.
I started yesterday with the removal process, and there was quite a bit that had to be removed.
-right intake and MAF
-the little box on the right side of the radiator.
-bank 7-12 distributor cap
-fan and fan clutch
-coolant hose between water pump housing and radiator.
-belt tensioner and belt for alternator and hyd pump.

There are two p-clamps that hold the cables for the sensors. I gave up on the lower one and cut the cable, the bolt is half way hidden behind the harmonic dampener. I used plastic tie straps to fasten the new sensor.
The sensors are fastened with 5mm allen key screws and they are not easy to get to, the top one being the worst.
The bottom sensor is not easy to get out, but once the cable is free you can turn it and wiggle it out.

My car has either had some leakage in the front in the past, or someone has spilled a lot of oil when filling oil in the past 22 years.
the front of my engine is covered in a 2-3mm thick coat of grime, no leaks now though.
The old sensors was also completely covered in a 2mm thick coat of grime, so it is possible that this is what caused them to fail in my case, and that the sensors were actually OK and would have worked if they had been properly cleaned, may also explain why my issue started off intermittent.

After everything was assembled (I expect this job in total took about 4 hours) I cranked the car, I now have both fuel pumps running.
It was very promising at first, but the car still refused to start, I then realized I had forgotten to connect the MAF connector.
Sadly I think I flooded the engine before I realized that so as of now it's not running.

But at least now both fuel pumps are running, so I have high hopes.

Hmmm.. looking at this list I need a date
I'm about the only one with a single room.

I don't think BMW hate the e31.
There must have been a few in the financial department and upper management that saw the e31 in a very narrow minded way as a money pit and a huge disappointment.
Looking at the e31 alone BMW probably did not make any money on the model, but there are numerous features in the e31 that was later used on other models.
i.e the ASC+t system was later used on all models, the MID was used on the e36 ect.

A lot of the technology developed and introduced in the e31 was later used on other models, so you really can't see the entire development cost purely on the e31.

Most of the people that worked in with BMW back in the 80's are probably gone, today a huge number of BMW employees have never even heard of the e31.

If you tell people you have an 8, their reply is usually "Volvo??".

The e31 is a forgotten car in many ways, the people within BMW with bad experiences with the model is probably gone, you have a handful that see it as a modern classic, and most who have no idea what car it is.

Many other brands are not much better, I went to Toyota and asked for some small parts for my grandfathers -74 Corona (hoses ect.), when the kid behind the counter looked at me and said, "you mean Corolla". Where as I said "No, it's a 1974 Corona 1.8".
So he opened up the parts catalog and looked a little surprised when he found that model, and then turned around and said, sorry, we can't get any of those parts you need for that car.
You can probably go to the shop down the street and buy a universal hose and cut it to length, which is what I ended up doing.

Zitat von KANTER;108383

I am annoyed with the way BMW is dealing with the E31 regarding new spares.

BMW really hates this car.!

The car went out of production about 14 years ago, by law they are only required to have parts for 10 years after the production ends.
Things will only get worse in the future, and there is nothing to do about it, it's just the way things are with any car.
Because of this communities like this will become very important for owners in the future.
both for trading used parts, people who know where to get replacement parts outside the BMW system, and people who make parts.

Just picked up some polishing pads for my Fein multimaster, think I will have a go at some details when I get home

My longer term plan includes a "wokke" rear and front axle rebuild and paint.
Think I will start on the rear end next winter.

Mine is blue too, but I have a plan to re-do it, and the headliner/pillars in black Alcantara.

or check with a nut and bolt specialist shop.
BMW ETK should have the spec on this bolt listed, and then try to contact i.e http://www.skruehuset.no or http://www.industrisalg.no

If someone still make this bolt they will have it, or be able to get it for you.
Or bring the broken one to them and I'm sure they will find a replacement.

I hear you.

I'm considering replacing my DD this year, had the car for over 4 years, and it's an -04.
I'd like something newer, more comfortable and practical than a coupè, I allready have a coupe in the 8, so I really don't need two now do I.....
think I might be going for the latest generation 5-series sedan.

I have the Ctek XS7000 too, had it for 4-5 years.
I have the quick disconnect plug on my left battery though, works well.

Reconditioning will help if you suffer from battery memory effect, however it's a greater chance one or more cells have shorted when a battery fail now a days.

I installed an "upgrade" too

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/20991/