Beiträge von martinw

I see that the Nick Johnson (dealer) £55k asking price Csi has now sold, helped perhaps by the feature in "Modern Classics" magazine .....
How about this one for private sale in the States https://www.hemmings.com/class…955262.html#&gid=1&pid=14
The highest asking price so far (?) and for the lower spec and less rare (?) US version.
BTW - can it really be true that according to howmanyleft there are only 39 Csi's now in UK (supposedly including SORN) - down from 103 in 2007 and even 10 less than last year ?
Are there really so many Csi's still being scrapped or shipped abroad (or a number being run with no car tax! ;-)) ?

Hi Gerry,
VERY late reply, but only because have decided to do the same rebuild on the canister as you detailed in another thread.
Me too - noticed a fuel smell in the engine bay area through the summer (firstly thought I had a leaking fuel line but then saw your thread) where the car has been standing most of the time.
Took the canister out and it certainly smells like it's saturated with fuel.

Question I have - how did you get the top (venting end) metal grille/mesh out of the canister ?

I have drilled out the 4 peened points with a 4mm drill (seems big enough to get rid of the peening) but can I get that metal grille out ..........
Its a very tight fit in the canister and I've tried everything I can think of to get it out, but no joy so far.
Any tips/ suggestions as to how to get it out?

BTW - should the possibility of a saturated carbon filter perhaps be a warning for those owners doing very low mileage and/or having their cars standing for significant periods ? This filter is now very expensive from BMW if it needs replacing.....

Dealer in UK selling a black one with 47k miles (and lots of incorrect details of the model in the ad) on Pistonheads (BMW Csi section) for £59,995. Will be interesting to see if it sells ? Of course we will never know what it actually sells for - or will we ?

Hi Gerry, thanks for the advice. Had already removed the plastic nut when the photo was taken. Could probably have cut the head off the tack-welded (to strut) bolt to remove the corroded threaded part and clamp but .....
I had already taken a chance and ordered the LHD strut using the part no. provided by Revtor.
And guess what ...... when it arrived it had a tack-welded bolt attached to the top, exactly like the RHD version on my car ! (no clamp with it though - shame).
So, one for the file if anybody with a RHD car has the same problem in future - though I suspect for the price (£15 incl. VAT), most people will cut off the bolt and replace.

Revtor,
Thanks again for the assistance.
Part no. 9 looks the right shape for the strut.
Part no. 10 (that appears to go with it) is not correct for my corroded bolt (and the price for a screw ! - there's a joke there somewhere )
Whatever..... for the price of part 9 (if the equivalent GBP is roughly the same) I might just order it and see if it turns up with a bolt attached.
Incidentally, the bmw dealer checking his parts list commented on a problem with the RHD version of the csi - he thought it was a glitch in his system - maybe not !

Revtor,
Was there a parts diagram that you managed to source the part number from ? Have had a pretty good search but so far nothing.
If you could point me to the correct section of bmwfans if from there ......
Would prefer to see if the part looks right before ordering
Thanks

Revtor,
Thanks, I'll check the number out.
Yes, the clamp may be ok to be replaced/repaired but is now so corroded that I just bent the ends up to remove the plastic splindle cover.
The reason I am asking for the part no. of the strut is that the corroded bolt appears to be attached (spot weld) to the top of the strut.
I will probably have to cut off the corroded nut to remove the strut and the thread on the bolt is really bad.
If I cannot find replacement strut (with bolt), could cut the old bolt out and replace.

The strut needs to be removed to give enough space for wiper linkage removal from under scuttle.

Anybody any ideas on the part nos of the strut arrowed in the pics and the attached clamp ? The wiper spindle shown is passenger side in centre of windscreen.
Not shown on bmwfans diagrams and local BMW dealer could do no better.

Whether they are stiil available and prices would be good.

Could probably repair/replace both if I had to but.........

In the process of replacing a seized wiper linkage and the horrors later revealed when the cover over that wiper spindle was removed - yuck !

This is the way my pump ('94 CSi) looks from inside the wheel arch.
Incidentally the Bosch part no on the tag is 0 265 201 032.
Underneath is stamped 465/200114, following this is pre-printed 160 006 which is the last part of the BMW part no. 34 511 160 006.

Mine looks to be mounted a different way round to that in Arnie's thread/photos.
Guess the motor is on the other (unvisible) end, and that I will have to remove the headlight or the front-end to access it ?
BTW, Arnie, following the instructions in your thread is it necessary to remove the hydraulic pipe connections and remove the whole unit to access just the motor ?

Zitat von Nifty50;90462

Yes, surprisingly good but the straight line run should have had a CSi, it wasn't like for like.

All in all I thought the 850 looked great:)

Agree the 850 looked good and I think I'd have given the Merc a run for it's money in the CSi but sorry, its not going for under £6995

Arnie,
Thanks for the info on the ASC+T unit, as you know mine is a '94 CSi.
Will have a go at removing the motor maybe this weekend if my bad back allows.
Not much point going to Santa Pod with no traction control and no ABS !

BTW could not open your link - just comes up with a message in German. Didn't it require an additional registration to access some parts of the site ? ....thought I'd done that in the past ....

Sorry for the late reply
Many thanks guys for the advice and tips
The car is now reassembled and back with me
I've started looking around on Ebay etc for secondhand units - I may put forward some suggestions for your approval...
I'm presently leaning towards trying a motor swap first

I'm a little confused as to whether the Bosch part number tag on the unit refers to the motor + the attached hydraulic unit or just the motor ?
I asked my Bosch specialist if they noted the actual tag number off the unit itself but unfortunately they didn't before everything was reassembled.

Out of interest I'm also rather confused as to where the "hydro unit ASC (+T in the header title)" remanufactured part no. 34 51 0 026 458 comes in the scheme of things - what does it do ? Could this also fail on the hydraulic side ? Appears to have no motor attached..?

Problem started with ABS and ASC+T warning lights staying on once car was moving (lights off immediately after startup).
Tried the usual battery disconnect a number of times in the hope the error would cancel but no such luck.
Eventually bit the bullet and took the car into a local Bosch diagnostics specialist in the expectation that they would probably trace it to one or more of the ABS wheel sensors.
Again no such luck...
Just had a call today that they have traced the fault back to the ABS pump, have dismantled enough to reach rhe pump itself and tested it directly. They say it appears to be seized internally as if they apply power directly to the pump it will blow a 30 amp fuse.
Had already already been warned of this and had been checking prices of ABS pump and control unit on bmwfans at 7-900 Euros.
Imagine my surpise when my Bosch man said they had found the unit was not available from Bosch, BMW direct only and the price quoted by the local stealer was £2500 + !!!

Obviously this is not really a practical proposition at that price (much as I love the car) and I am now looking at any alternatives.
Have only had chance to read through a few similar threads on here but would appreciate any advice/tips towards a practical solution.
I'm able to tackle most work myself given the time...

Thanks for being so understanding guys !

Me - I felt like a real idiot !
But I think it was an understandable error considering the accuracy of the gauge previously ?

Guess the message is - don't trust your fuel gauge .....

When the problem first arose, tank was showing about 1/8 full. I had added fuel to the tank, done a run which should have used less than what I added. Gauge was then showing 1/4 full and yet it was actually empty.....

Well you know the old joke about - did you try switching it on ? ........

Car eventually went in for diagnostics:-
No fault codes, ignition ok, ECUs ok.
Tried some spray into the intake and it fired and ran for a few seconds.

They then moved on to fuel supply, no fuel getting through to injectors.
Noticed some gurgling from the tank and at first suspected the fuel pump.
Didn't expect it to be the fuel filters as they rarely get completely blocked.

Just on the offchance as they had a spare can of fuel lying around, decided to add some fuel to the tank.
A few churns on the starter and it fired and ran and continued running.
Out for a test drive - everything fine.

So the cause of all this grief was - there was no fuel in the tank !!!

When this problem started there was approx 1/4 tank showing on the gauge and a little below when it went in for diagnostics.
The gauge has always been super-accurate up to now and I have occasionally run it on reserve when racing - still gauge was accurate down to virtually empty. So a faulty gauge or float sensor was the last thing I suspected.
Of the two, I would say a sticking float sensor would be my bet.

Garage advised topping up the tank and seeing how it goes on the gauge from there. Thats what I did and seems to be working ok so far. I'll be watching it like a hawk from now on, especially when it gets low.

Oh and they replaced the fuel filters before I collected.

Arnie/Nick F,
Thanks for the suggestions.
Also from previous threads, I suppose I should be looking next at fuel and air.
If I'm getting sparks to both banks, does that mean my crank sensors are ok (haven't had time to think that one through !?)

Stomp test - had another couple of goes at that following instructions in online manual that it had to be 5 stomps in 5 secs - still couldn't get it to work.
Fuel filters - I haven't changed them, and as they don't seem to be a regular service item, they've probably never been changed in previous ownership.

Latest update:
Still not had chance to run professional diagnostics (mobile guys never available on Saturdays !). Car still won't start.

Have had one spark plug out on each cylinder bank - n/s bank, spark plug appeared normal colour, perhaps running a little hot.
O/s (drivers side) bank, spark plug much sootier/black but not oiled/wet.

Tried spark tester on one HT lead on each bank - n/s bank sparking, o/s bank sparking (but difficult to tell visually the strength of the spark).

Visually inspected coils - no apparent cracks or grey material on the edges of the coil plates.
Measured resistances on the 2 coils :- both virtually identical readings for primary and secondary coils but both high compared to readings shown in the 11/94 online manual.
Secondaries 0.8 kohms (should be 0.5 +/- 10%)
Primaries 10.31 kohms (should be 6.0 +/-10%)

Does any of this get me nearer a potential culprit ?

Talking to a couple of diagnostics guys on the phone, both mentioned crank sensors as a possible cause ......

Well the saga continues.....
Got back to the car Fri night. Won't start (even after cooling all week).
So had to cancel Sat booking to take car to diagnostics place.

Tried Carsoft on my normal laptop with RS232/PCIMA adaptor - progam would not recognise the input.
Eventually got my old laptop with serial port to work with Carsoft and ran full diagnostics - most modules including DDE/DME did not respond and only HKL and the instrument cluster modules came up as OK.
ABS had error codes (I'm assuming they were error codes as in German) 15 and 7.
Airbag had error code 17.
So not much there to give me any clues.
Don't know why so many modules came up as no reponse ? (I'm already excluding modules listed in Carsoft as not fitted to the 8 series).

On an off chance, decided to try the "stomp test".
My car appears to have a bulb in both the EML and check engine slots (at least they both light up briefly when the ignition is switched on).
However trying the stomp test procedure a number of times brought up no blinks from the check engine light.

So, unless anybody can come up with any suggestions about the codes etc, looks like I might have to get the car trailered to the Bosch diagnostics centre or (heaven forbid!) the stealers next weekend.

Found the stomp test procedure (from Faisal).
Other threads tend to show stomp test does not work on Euro (or non-US) models.
Any confirmation on that ?

Nick,
Thanks for the offer of the coils but I'll take your advice and take it somewhere to get the codes read first. If after that, its looking in the direction of the coils .....
I've already got carsoft but could never get it to work properly. Have a serial/usb adaptor and an old laptop with a serial port (just one).
Don't think I'll have the time this weekend to mess around trying to get carsoft to work.
Before I take it somewhere fore the codes though ...

Iceman
"Stomp test" - I've heard about it before. Can you give me some details about how to do it and what to look for ?
Meanwhile, I'll do a search if its been covered in an old thread