MOT fail on indicator repeater and fuel pipe question

  • Hi 8ers,


    I have an issue with my nearside repeater not working. Thought it was just a bulb but have swapped the bulbs over (other side is still working) and it seems it's more than the bulb.


    Just failed an MOT and one of the issues was the shock absorber has fluid leak. While swapping the bulbs over I noticed some oily fluid all around the bulb socket and wiring.


    I think it's safe to say this has something to do with the repeater dying.


    But whether it does or doesn't, it looks like I need a new bit of wiring and a socket. All the fuses seem fine. However, I'm not really sure what the part I need is called. Is it just the wiring, or is "socket" the correct terminology?


    Secondly, my fuel pipes are and advisory. Are fuel pipes considered fatal on the e31? I mean, it's been difficult enough trying to find shocks (I've had to go for the non electric ones). So before I spend some more cash, are the fuel pipes the end of the old girl?


    Last question, there's a harsh vibration on the back left wheel when I'm accelerating hard in first or second gear. I'm told this is because of the propshaft mounting. Again, not sure of terminology here, I thought it was a called a centering bush. Are these the same thing, do I need both, do I need the centering bearing also?


    Cheers

  • Hi:
    A few questions here. Firstly which indicator are you referring to - front or rear? The Front indicator bulb retainer should not come into contact with any oily fluid - it is inside the front bumper. However if it is the left front then behind it sits the ABS block - if this was leaking, however, you would have ABS lights on and possible brake failure - some photo's would help.


    I understand that the EDC shocks (electric shocks as you refer to them) can be rebuilt. But it looks like you have made the decision to dispense with them. Wokke (contact details on this site) does rebuild them.


    Sometimes, the MOT guys will advise on these if there is a bit of surface rust. Best thing to do is undo the clips holding them to the underside of the car (plenty of penetrating oil and gentle treatment on the self tapping screws). Then inspect the lines, use wet & dry (fine) to rub the surfaces of the lines down and inspect for any sign of seepage afterwards. If all looks OK then coat them in grease or waxoyl and put back together. I grease all the lines every year, fuel, fuel return and brake lines, as part of the routine annual maintenance. I am not sure if new fuel lines are still available - but understand from a previous thread on here that the job of replacement is best performed with a ramp or pit.


    The propshaft centre bearing, universal joint bearings and the thrust coupling "doughnut" can wear and would cause general vibration through the vehicle and clunking on sudden acceleration or deceleration. If you are only getting the vibration from one side then I would suspect the drive shaft from the differential housing to the wheel carrier.


    Hope this helps give you some pointers.

    Nr Welshpool, Powys, Wales[INDENT]E31 840 Ci Sport - 1999
    VW Passat Alltrack - 2013
    Mercedes SLK 320 - 2002
    Toyota Rav4 - 1997[/INDENT]

Jetzt mitmachen!

Sie haben noch kein Benutzerkonto auf unserer Seite? Registrieren Sie sich kostenlos und nehmen Sie an unserer Community teil!