Wanted: Body control module

Here's one on the old part number...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-…ts_SM&hash=item1c21440f73

I'll keep a look out.

You could also try Wuffer.net for parts...

Alex

tripodspore: What is wrong with your own module? The A1 general module (GM) is notorious for its failing electrolytic capacitors which causes all kinds of weird behavior, but these capacitors can be replaced quite cheaply... There's a lot of information about the issue in the E31 communities. For example: General module repair.

If your module is really broken and you are unable to find the part at local breakers, give Andi and Alex in Germany a call. They have a huge collection of E31 parts at fair prices. Ask for the general module (Grundmodul in German).

Note that in theory you will have to recode the replacement module to your car. It will work out of the box, but certain options on your car may no longer work depending on the coding of the car the module came out. That's why it's usually best to repair your own module.

Normally, the general module (GM) should go to sleep and cut power to several other consumers exactly 16 minutes after the last action. Bad capacitors can prevent the module from entering sleep mode, leaving the car with a much higher battery drain. Obviously I cannot guarantee this is the case with your E31 as well, but it is by far the most heard electronic issue with the E31 and if your GM was never replaced or refurbished before, this would be the first thing to check.

Do you at any chance have other issues as well? Like wipers with their own mind, erratic power windows, stubborn central locking, or a trunk latch that's on steroids? Those are all tell-tales of bad capacitors in the GM.

If you are good with a soldering iron, you can replace the capacitors yourself for a few pounds at most.

Here's another thread about the repair: Success in General Module Repair (note that the knee bolster is not present in European E31).

With regards to the trunk lock: Make sure the glove box is not locked. A locked glove box will prevent the trunk from electrically unlocking. If the glove box is not locked, it is possible the trunk lock issue is related to the GM. Bad capacitors in the GM are known to affect the central locking system. Worse is when the GM makes the trunk latch solenoid cycle endlessly. The solenoid overheats and burns-through...

The electrical steering column issue is unrelated. Do you have the regular electrical steering column, or the one with memory? If you don't know what I am talking about: does your driver's seat have the [1][2][3][M] buttons (= seat and mirror memory system) and does (or rather did) your steering wheel go up when you exit the car and down when you turn on the ignition (= steering column memory)?