Airbag Removal

    As I am having trouble with my 840 starting and a trans fail safe warning, I have decided to give it a complete overhaul and check the loom for before carrying on and finding the fault which has stopped me enjoying this car for four years.
    I am currently removing the interior and would like to know how to get the airbag out. Is it safe to remove with the batteries disconnected and if so how long do you have to wait before you take them out?

    You only need to wait 10 minutes at the most after disconnecting the batteries to stop the warning light illuminating when re-connecting. But, why are you removing the dash for a no-start and a trans failsafe?

    I thought as the problem as so far defeated me, rather than lose heart I would do a restoration and ensure that everything is fine before continuing any further. I have changed the gearbox had the solenoids rebuilt in the gearbox to no avail. In this period the wiper mechanism failed and I repaired that and just continued in that vain. While this went on the car still ran to give me the incentive to carry on. Now that has stopped I thought I might as well start at the beginning.

    Possibly we could help you get your car running again, can you give us a history of the problems that you have encountered and what you have done to try and resolve them.

    The car as previously stated is a 1995 840. I was using it as my daily drive for the first year of ownership when the reverse gear went. I left it with a garage to repair but it seemed to be out of their ability and seven months later I had the car returned to me with the problem still there.
    After reading some of the articles on this forum I realised that this seemed to be a common fault and was said to be the ball in the valve mechanism of the gearbox. I stripped and repaired this (using diagrams available on this and other sites) and had the solenoid section of the gearbox rebuilt by a specialist in Liverpool. I refitted everything and the problem persisted.
    I saw a gearbox for sale on evilbay and bought it. I fixed this to the car and everything seemed OK and it was selecting gear ok. Trans fail safe came on but I found this to be a crack in the alloy of the gear lever mounting.!! I had this welded and refitted it. I ensured the gearbox and lever where in the park position and fitted the cable so everything was in sync. The gearbox seemed ok and then I took it out after fixing other problems,wiper mechanism etc. The fail safe message came on after about a mile and has never gone. I know the thing is to get a diagnostic check on the car and I have bought the software and tried to get the fault codes but it will not communicate with the car, at this point the car was still starting but this has now stopped and it will start with easy start, I know using this can cause problems so I gave it one squirt with an instant result.
    I cannot move the car and live 14miles outside Carmarthen which is the middle of nowhere. I would need a mobile diagnostic tester which are rare in these parts. I should really cut my losses and break the car but I absolutely loved driving it and hope to being doing so again someday.

    Kudos for taking on the valve body repair - that's quite a fiddly job. As you can get the car firing on Easy Start, the most likely fault is that the fuel pump (or the relay K6301 and the inline fuse F23 in the Front Power Distribution box) has failed. You could try linking the relay base contacts 30 and 87 together and listening to hear if the pump running. That, at least. would be a good place to start.


    If your gearbox was changing gear correctly before the trans failsafe appeared, it is quite likely that the gearbox is mechanically sound and there was an electrical fault that is responsible. But, one thing at a time - let's see if you can get the engine running first.

    Good man, that's the spirit! If you need to know the location of the fuses/relays, you can find the info here:


    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/e31_95.pdf

    Hi Timm
    I have located fuse F23 and it seems to be OK. I cannot seem to find which relay is K6301, I can find it on the schematics but not on the car.
    As a further point there is a smell of petrol when I carank ther engine.

    I would love to say that I knew this all along (thinking the relays were in the main fuse box with the rest of the relays), but, after 30 minutes searching I find that the relays are in the E-Box along with the ECU. There are a number of relays in there , but the fuel pump relay is nearest the front of the car and is usually orange in colour (I have quoted Revtor verbatim).

    I have found and removed the relay on the car and connected the relay positions 30 and 87. I heard the pump running ok. On looking at the relay area I saw another identical relay behind it ( rearmost relay). As this looked identical to the one tested I wondered if there where two fuel pumps. I pulled the relay and connected the same numbered terminals and there was no sound.

    No, only one pump, although the V12's have two and two relays. The question is, does it fire up with the relay socket linked so the pump runs? If you give that a try it would help with further work.

    Blast! Right, give it another go with the pump running, and then pop a sparkplug out and see if it is wet with fuel - that should help the diagnosis. It had an attempt at starting with starter fluid - but the injector system is very reliable, if it gets a good fuel supply and the plugs are firing, it normally works, extremely rarely does it fail. However, the M60's do flood easily!

    Airbag removal


    I have tried starting it with the pump running and no relay.
    The plug was removed and it smelt of fuel and was damp but not wet. I checked to see if I had a spark and I have.

    So, you have fuel getting through, the injectors are clicking away and you have a spark. My guess is that you don't have any compression. This is quite common on the M60 on a car that does very few miles (and in your case, no miles at all). The DME 3.3 system gives a squirt of fuel before starting, and if the car fails to start the fuel ratio builds up to a point where it washes the oil film from between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. The car will not start without decent compression.


    Have a read of this - I think this is what you need to get that engine running again:


    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Flooded_M60_Start.htm


    The other thing worth mentioning that flooding can occur when the battery voltage is low - and, so can trans failsafe!

    I will do that but it will be next weekend for the next instalment. I forgot to mention I changed the spark plugs for some I got from Halfords and the car refused to start.I changed back to the old ones and it still would not start. I have read the link above and it now makes sense so fingers crossed.

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